Good job V.B.
I am doing a merit draw poker that's basically the same thing. Got some questions for you.
I've often looked at those counter-tops for CP's. How hard was it to cut to width and not have the edges chip?
Was it 3/4" thick material?
Where did you get it at?
Are your joys long enough to get full range of motion without having to counter sink them into the underside of the CP? They look a little short but if they work... 
And...what kind of paints did you use to prime and final coat with?
Again nice job. Great inspiration to get mine done!
Thanks IG-88. The counter top I got from Home Depot,I only needed an 18 inch wide piece but the smallest they sold was 48,so I had to buy that and cut it. I tested cutting first on a piece that i wasn't going to use to see if the edges of the laminate would chip. It didn't. The saw I used was a Stanley Sharptooth handsaw,personally I find I get straighter cuts with it than a Jigsaw,and I dont have a circular saw anyway.
Joysticks get the full range of motion,the counter top is 3/4" thick. I just drilled a hole the same size as for the buttons, 28mm or 1 and 1/8 of an inch. I wouldn't be against the idea of countersinking them with a router on the underside of the CP to get more length, even though the length is fine for me,but I dont have a router anyway either! I guess if you have dinner-plate sized hands it might be a problem ! Also,I used the invisible hardware to mount the sticks from the underside,so countersinking might not leave enough thickness to drill and sink the threads for the bolts to go in. Bear that in mind if you go that route.
Paint i used was Rustoleum 2x coverage grey primer, and top coated it with Rustoleum Professional High Performance Black Gloss Enamel spray.(Got these at Home Depot also) I gave it a light sand before priming even though that Rustoleum stuff sticks to anything. (For the cabinet itself,I would go for matt finish rather than gloss,but thats just me)
So are you using that cab to make a MAME machine? Dont forget to post some pics !!