Author Topic: Alternatives to T-Molding? (Read 3538 times)

king88mob · « **on:** July 17, 2003, 08:19:12 pm »

So my control panel is getting close to completion, and i've looked everywhere around here. No one rents a router

So i'm looking at different alternatives. My CP is currently rectangular. I'd like to round the corners, but i'm going to wait until i've figured out how i want to finish the edges.

I like the idea T-Molding (e.g. rounded edges) is there anything i could glue/nail on instead?

I could always just use would, but i really would prefer to be able to round and clean up the edges a bit.

Thanks in adance,

Tailgunner · « **Reply #1 on:** July 17, 2003, 08:45:02 pm »

Are there any cabinet shops in your area? If you showed up at the shop late friday afternoon with your CP, the t-slotting bit, and a six-pack you could likely get it routed in short order.

Butch...

Apollo · « **Reply #2 on:** July 17, 2003, 09:16:31 pm »

Iron on molding is more common over here in New Zealand and a lot easier to work with ( no tools required, except for an iron and most people have one of those ). It gives a pretty good fi, practise first though lol.

REBIRTH · « **Reply #3 on:** July 17, 2003, 11:03:14 pm »

If your cab is really rectangular, you can get half round molding which you could nail on the sides, to give it a rounded look. I did that with an entertainment center I built (all wood, T-molding on that would have looked dopey). I still like the sick pack of beer idea Tailgunner has above, but if you really have no choice and the thing is a rectangle you can go with the half round wood molding (made in 3/4" and 1/2" thick)

Lilwolf · « **Reply #4 on:** July 18, 2003, 07:43:16 am »

I've heard of people being successful with a dremal tool as a quick note.

but get a router. They are 30bucks for a cheap one at wallmart that will do what you want.

trouble is... you might want two.

Plunger Routers are REALLY nice for sinking in areas for your control panel, ect.

Standard Routers are better for tmolding (where you don't want to have it 1/2 plunged).

When you look at spending 20 bucks for a bit... the extra for a router to put the bit in isn't bad.

said7 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 18, 2003, 09:04:57 am »

I went ahead and bought a router last weekend. A Ryobi 2 hp plunge router. Man i cut the tmolding slots in about 10 minutes. It was insanely easy.

You might want to try a autoparts store for some side molding it might work. Just a thought.

AlanS17 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 18, 2003, 10:29:06 am »

Oly $30 at Walmart.... Well that's just great... Now I HAVE to buy one...

AlanS17 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 18, 2003, 10:30:43 am »

DIRTY ROTTEN LIARS!!! Getting my hopes all up... the cheapest they have on their website is about $98.

REBIRTH · « **Reply #8 on:** July 18, 2003, 10:45:23 am »

$30 sounds very cheap. You can get a Ryobi at Home Depot for $60 ($50 on sale if you are lucky). I have a Ryobi myself, though I think I went a little better model for about $100. As for LilWolf's suggestion to buy a router for each bit - are you insane?

That is like buying a a new PC for every program you run. The bits are not cheap though. Figure about $15 per bit. For T-molding you need 1 bit (which they did not have at any local store by me, I had to get it over the net).

AlanS17 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 18, 2003, 10:47:13 am »

I think you misread him. He means if you're going to be spending so much n special router bits youmight as well have a router to put them in rather than being cheap with a dremel or something.

Spaced Invader · « **Reply #10 on:** July 18, 2003, 10:52:29 am »

Quote from: AlanS17 on July 18, 2003, 10:30:43 am

DIRTY ROTTEN LIARS!!! Getting my hopes all up... the cheapest they have on their website is about $98.

Try Harbor Freight. I have a local store here and buy from these guys ALL the time. They have a great onlinne catalog. Shipping is VERY reasonable (and free on orders over $50).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/category.taf?CategoryID=103&pricetype=S

OK, I know I sound like a commercial...but they really are great.

AlanS17 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 18, 2003, 10:56:18 am »

If this had come up a couple weeks ago I probably would have bought one. As it stands, I need one TODAY!

Lilwolf · « **Reply #12 on:** July 18, 2003, 11:09:41 am »

I did buy my router for 30 or 35 bucks around christmas last year at wallmart. Its the cheap, and works great! I have not searched since.

But after playing with it, I could see it worth spending 100 bucks for a better one... But I'm still VERY happy with my purchase. It would just be great to have a good one because they are so darn useful.

shmokes · « **Reply #13 on:** July 18, 2003, 11:37:28 am »

They're on Ebay all the time for 30 bones. Check the brick and mortor Wal-mart, not just online. They carry different stuff.

When I say all the time on Ebay I don't mean that they pop up there with regularity; I mean at all times there is an auction for a buy-it-now $30 router.

Course it'd have to be shipped so you wouldn't have it in your hands today.

Spoonage · « **Reply #14 on:** July 18, 2003, 12:50:29 pm »

When I built my control panel, I didn't want to wait around for T molding either. (Nevermind the fact that I didn't have a router!) My pseudo-molding proceeded like so:

2 cans of Plastikote (used to dip tools in to give them rubber handles)

A PVC pipe jig (more on this abomination later)

4 Stanley Corner Braces (this stick is portable and I want the corners to NOT explode)

1 1/4" high pine molding (from Home Depot, cuts like styrofoam heh)

And some little nails (real small) to tack it on there

You make want to get a lovely (or perhaps not so lovely) assitant to help you with this. Gloves recommended. Firstly, I cracked open the plastikote and dipped the corner braces. You must go slowly so as to get a consistent covering. I used a wire hanger through the screwhole to get it in there. This makes for a nice rubbery coating.

The PVC jig was kind of odd. It's a 4-6" section of pvc with masking tape on the bottom (only a thin layer). Put some masking tape on the top back side of your pine molding. Then, put the non-taped end of the pine molding into the pvc, the taped end in your lovely assistants upraised hand, and poke the bottom through the masking tape (you did only use one layer right?) Now slowly drag the pipe to the top, and slowly back down again. This SHOULD leave a nice consistent, smooth, rubbery, molding. Hang that thing up, put a piece of tape over the slightly oozing hole, and get ready to make more molding.

After leaving them to dry, the next day we tacked the molding on with very small nails. If you make them straight, they look rather flattering. If you really do hate them, just plastikote over the nail heads. Xylene is the recommended thinner for plastikote.

Also, a little xylene with some plastikote is good for filling in any gaps. We only had to use it a bit, and it worked rather well.

This seemingly insane process was dreamt up in Home Depot while buying plexi for the top.

EDIT: Ah, I forgot to mention that this was for a portable stick that gets lots of miles, that was the main reason for the corner braces being added. They go on the corners (go figure). I used the aluminum screws that were included. Doesn't look as horrible as it sounds.

tmasman · « **Reply #15 on:** July 18, 2003, 01:55:40 pm »

Well Spoonage...
Where are the pics?
This sounds very interesting...

Spoonage · « **Reply #16 on:** July 18, 2003, 02:23:38 pm »

Well, I guess I could put them up on my school account. Nice mohawk btw. I just got mine shaved down to a lower profile.

Linkage to follow.

Following linkage:

http://www.mcs.drexel.edu/~gep22/

And there ya be. Two of the pics show the tiny nails. Those are really the only pics I have of it in any case.

king88mob · « **Reply #17 on:** July 18, 2003, 04:08:37 pm »

Ok, i'm not big on the idea of buying a router, however i do have a dremel. Anyone have the part number for the slot cutter i'd need for it?

How does one use it too? i'd imagine you'd either need a really steady hand, or does it rest on a flat surface to ensure the height is right?

HeadRusch · « **Reply #18 on:** July 18, 2003, 04:26:53 pm »

Alternative to t-moulding?

Sandpaper and Paint.

sand-down your sharp edges to rounded edges......then apply....PAINT!

AlanS17 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 18, 2003, 04:33:20 pm »

Quote from: HeadRusch on July 18, 2003, 04:26:53 pm

Alternative to t-moulding?

Sandpaper and Paint.

sand-down your sharp edges to rounded edges......then apply....PAINT!

That method may not work with MDF. That stuff is kind of soft...

Plus if you wanted a professional curve I would recommend a router.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #20 on:** July 18, 2003, 10:31:01 pm »

hmmz...19 replies and no one thought about batten strip.
For the LAST time !

http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=2767

ace hardware carries this batten strip. and get some black finishing tacks.
looks "fine".
t-molding looks better(duh) but lot of you dont have router or dont want the hassle.

Here is a picture !

That IS batten strip.Can't tell but I didnt have a router when I build this one.


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news