New Rowe Ami help topic

[ami-man]

Hi,

The old topic was getting long in the tooth with many pages to go through. So here is a new topic page.

If you require advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes with regards to faults, where to get parts etc by all means leave a post.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ami-man]

Hi
The idear for this new topic was that people would be able to go to this topic rather than the old one.

To help me or any of the other members of this forum giving advice it would be helpful to include details of what country you live in.
This would help in giving information such as where to go for spare parts/engineers etc.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[Ken Layton]

Right you are Alan. 

Alan is in the UK and I'm right here in the USA.

Don't forget that Rowe-Ami, also now known as AMI Entertainment Network (owners of Merit Games and the Megatouch contertop games) also now owns their competitor jukebox manufacturer, Rock-Ola!

[ami-man]

Hi Ken,

Didn't you say that Rowe Ami have moved its manufacturing to Mexico?
Do you think that they will continue with two lines of product or will they merge it into one.
I have had no dealings with the digital jukeboxes of any kind but I expect one download is as good as another.
Unless it is any different in the USA the operator has got the short end of the stick once more. What would you say that your operating profit per machine is in the USA?
When we went out of operating about ten years ago the UK's average was less than a pound per week per machine!

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Ken Layton]

The operator must pay for high speed internet access specifically for the downloader jukebox so that's a monthly bill right there.

Depending on the whether the juke is setup with AMI Entertainment Network, Ecast, or Touchtunes hardware/system, the juke manufacturer either takes 10 cents of every dollar taken in or 25% right off the top, whichever is greater. This is supposed to cover copyright & licensing. Of course the purchase price of the machine has to factor in. These jukes cost about $6,500 to buy and are sold to operators only.

Only the best locations can make the operator any money and in some cases the location gets LESS money than if they would have had a CD jukebox in there.

[Kevin Mullins]

Are there any common techniques for dealing with a button panel like on an R-83 that wants to double hit on a couple numbers ?
Sometimes if you press a button just ever so it will register twice.
So instead of 2, you get 22, etc.

I've them apart, not much there to mess with. Two pins and a light spring. I did notice on a couple of them where one or both of the pins weren't quite seated all the way down in the bottom. But other than that all I can think of is maybe trying a slightly heavier spring. (?)

This is in my project pc jukebox, so no original electronics other than the keypad itself in that regards. I'm pretty certain it's a mechanical contact type issue.

[Ken Layton]

Contacts should be clean and both sets should mate at the same time.

[Kevin Mullins]

Thanks Ken..... kinda what I was suspecting.
They're clean, I'm figuring when the button is hit just right that one pin is letting off and the other is making contact right after.
I will continue to fiddle with them then. 

[Ken Layton]

Seeburg's keypad switches were the same way and had the same problems.

[ami-man]

Hi,

I have cleaned the contacts in the past, set the springs but in the end you usually have to replace the switch.


Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man

[Kevin Mullins]

I also kinda figure there's a little rocking action to the buttons due to normal wear. Ever so slight as it may be, but enough to not have a direct contact on both points simultaneously at times if hit just right. I only have one that is really notorious for double striking. I may even just go in and cover/remove one contact point if it becomes too much of a problem.

[ami-man]

Hi Kevin,

I have had defective Selector Logic boards that have also given the fault similar to buttons being double hit!

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Kevin Mullins]

There is no Selector Logic board in this particular unit anymore.   
It's the PC based one I threw together a few years ago.
I'm pretty certain it's just the button/switches are worn a bit. They are original.

[ami-man]

Hi Kevin,

I think you were converting a R-83 Disco 200 is that correct?

Look out for any key switches from the following jukeboxes to use as spares and remember do not use the switches from 1 or 2 because they are the most used switches.

R-80S, R-81, R-82, R-83, CTI-1SC, RI-2.

At a pinch you may be able to mod a switch assembly (after removing the popular switch) from a R-90 and R-91, have a look what on Ebay at the moment I saw a couple of switch assemblies on there the other day.
Here is a Ebay number for a R-90 keypad (and a short cable from the plug)
110414891395 for sale in the USA.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Kevin Mullins]

Hi Alan,
Yes, it was a gutted R-83 and you've help me with lots of tidbit information that was key to incorporating what was left of the original components. (output transformer assy, selector display schematics, etc)

I had a thread on here from when I first started it. But my harddrive with all my notes and pictures during the process died, so I never updated the thread.
Maybe I should go back and post an "it's ugly, but it works" post. 

Funny you mention the #1 & #2 button, makes sense.... and guess which one gives me the most trouble? (#2)
Allbeit these aren't tooooo terrible yet, but they'll get ya enough times to be a tad annoying.

Sucks because when I was initially building this thing I was missing several actual buttons and switches and couldn't find any. I finally found an old operator who had a whole panel assembly locally......needless to say I paid like $75 AND traded in my old panel to get that one.
 

[ami-man]

Hi Kevin,

Just change the 8 & 9 or the reset for the 1 & 2 buttons, till you get another button bank.

Regards

Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Kevin Mullins]

Just change the 8 & 9 or the reset for the 1 & 2 buttons, till you get another button bank.

Good point...... may just do that. 

[ami-man]

Hi,

Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Kevin Mullins]

Thank you Alan.... and a Happy Holidays to you and yours the same.   

[KingCounty]

Hi,
Looking for help on Rowe CD100B Error Codes.
'Board Error' light is coming on and I am getting error code 05-63-03 which is telling me there is a problem with the CCC.
Is there anyway around this or a way to fix this w/out replacing the CCC?
Thanks.
Regards,
FS

[Ken Layton]

Sounds like communications between the CCC and mech control board were lost 3 times. Bad solder joints on the connector header pins on both the mech control board and CCC board may be the cause.

[ami-man]

Hi FS,

Ken is correct it is a communication fault on the Rowelink between the CCC and the Mechanism Control unit.
More than likely this will be down to dry joints (cold joints in the USA) and will be on the Mech Control/Decoder

Rowe says the probable cause is the CCC harness or the Mech Conrol has failed.

If you need board repairs in the USA then Bruce Wentworth is your best bet.
www.abjukeboxrepair.com

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[KingCounty]

Thanks to you both for your help, I really do appreciate it.

Now, this may be an extremely dumb question, but how would I go about fixing the 'cold' joints?

I literally just purchased the machine, so I am guessing I need to reach out to the company I bought it from to ensure it will be covered by the warranty.

Thanks again.
-FS

[Kevin Mullins]

Now, this may be an extremely dumb question, but how would I go about fixing the 'cold' joints?

Not dumb at all......

Pull the boards, flip them over, remove the old solder from the pins, then resolder the pins.
"Header Pins" being where the wiring harness plugs into each board.

A "cold joint" is basically a broken solder joint. No/bad continuity between the pin and the solder pad itself.

[richard2010]

hi all i`m new here and having a problem with my jukebox

i have a ami rowe r85 starwood from 1980
this machine has the following problem
when you put the power on the machine ,the lights are working
pull the service switch from off to serv =no problems
pull the service switc from serv to on the wheel with records starts spinning
the display on the front shows recordnr 100 and the light from record playing is blinking and the light from make a selection also blinking
when i pull the switch from the money,the counter starts counting and the displays shows 0
the keypad on the machine does nothing

i have allready ordered a manual,but it did not arrived yet

i know a lot of elektronics
when i pull the serv switch from on to serv the wheel stops spinning en sometimes he picks up a record an starts playing
the playing and te sound are good no problems with that

he doesnt want to work in on position

what i allready did so far(before this machine i own for a several years a rock ola gp160 so i know a little bit of jukeboxes)
clean all contacts
put the eye on the wheel good so it sees the 0 positioning,when the wheel is spinning the eye blinks on the 0 ,but the light opt.switch index on the bord on the record player burns all the time
solder all joints to prevent broken solder
clean all bords
check the nummeric pad ,all contacts working fine
check all wiring of broken cables with a meter

so i`m now so far that for me it leaves 2 options

the eye and light opt.switch
does the eye counts also the teeth on the wheel so it can see in with position it is and when its spinning does the light off opt.switch constantly burning
or does the light flikkering every time the eye sees a tooth ??

i have allready checked the main computer
and i`m thinking of ic nummer 2203cp of this one is ok
this chip sends the signal for the wheel
only thing is is this a programmed chip from the factory or a normal one,couse it has a red dot sticker on it

the normal chip is here in holland very easy to get,the main board is here in holland not availlable

i know it`s a hole story
but beter getting the hole information than the half information to solve the problem

i hope someone can help me

greetz from holland

[ami-man]

Hi Richard,

Wait until you get your manual, check out the adjustments for the opto switch and clean the opto and the gear teeth that passes through the opto.

If this does not sort out your problem then you need to send the following boards to a Rowe Ami specialist:-

Central Control Computer
Mechanism Control Mechanism.
Pricing board.

I am in the UK.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[richard2010]

hoi alan

thank for the reply

today i received the manual of the jukebox
what i see in the troubleshooting says also the opto it tells even how to set the opto right
this opto shoud let the light opt.switch blinking when the wheel is spinning
this light is burning all the time,so he doesnt see the wheel tooth at all
so what i`m thinking already,that this opto is gone
the tooth on the wheel is clean

the guy where i bought this machine tells me that he has bought it and the machine was working fine
after transport it to his home,the machine wont work only the wheel is spinning
so it must be something simple

for the rest in the manual the schematics of this machine is for myself very simple
the chipset for the ccc is very simple i have seen on this manual
so i will find it out now with this manual and let the machine running in no time
what i allready find out here in holland is that spare parts for this machine is hard to get here
but elektronic spare parts are easy to get at the local elektronic supplier
so restoring boards will be very easy here

greetz from holland

[richard2010]

hello

with the manual i find out that the control board for the motor has a problem

the chip on this board is gone
the signal from the optic eye is good it sees the 0 position and the tooth signal is going to the board
only thing is that the opt.switch index light is the whole time burning and not blinking as the book says

in the troubleshooting they also talking about spinning wheel without stopping

after some measurment i find out that the chip lm3302n is gone ans gives a continu signal to the light and no signal to ccc

so the computer sees the 0 and can not count so its never reaches his startpostioning

it keeps spinning until it reaches his counting signal

i think when i repaired that
the machine will work again

what i find strange how is this chip gone??
high voltage??

greetz from holland

[ami-man]

Hello Richard,

The seller will always say that a fault will be an easy fix, if they said that it would cost you a pot of money to put right, then you would not buy.

Spare electronic parts are not cheap if they are working.
The mechanical parts are not that much other than the opto switch which you would have to pay £40 plus for a second hand (used) part or up to £70 new from Rowe Ami if they still have any.

Please let this forum know how you get on with your repair.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[richard2010]

hai alan

today i went to the elektronic shop and buy a ic for the motor mechanism board and a special foot for easy changing the ic(ic is 3 euro here in holland)
replaced the old with the new one,put the board back
and the system works!!
the light of the opt,system blinks and is counting the wheel

but....now the next problem occures
the keypad doesnt work,the switches of the keypad are good
so checking the system from ccc to keypad
from ccc to pricing board everything is ok
but now is comes

in my manual the leading points  positive signal from ccc what is going trough the pricing board to keypad what is leading to reset and most played,and the one going to 1,2,3,4,5 and 6,7,8,9,0 are diverent on the board than in the manual
also the cable from pricing board to keypad is different
the cable numbers on pricing board are correct
but the cables on the keypad are on other places than the manual says

do you know of there different manuals of the r85
of is there different cables and keypads for this machine

what you told me about the guy who sold me this machine is true i think
i think he tryed to fix it himself,but doesnt know what he was doing,i know what i`m doing so the machine will work
i think the keypas issue is the last thing that occures,the display works also fine

i hope for your answer

greetz from holland

[fredster]

I just wanted to thank Ken and Ami Man for helping me fix my R-84.

It's still working just fine.

I'm glad to have a resouce like you guys!

[richard2010]

hello

i found it out a little bit today

there are 2 different schedules of the r85 from the ccc

with the right shedule i find out that the chip what send the strobe signal is gone,so replaced it...find there`s another chip gone

so monday i will change all normal ic`s
the ones that comes from the factory,who are programmed are good

i think the machine has occured a power overload or something,cause till now there are two normal ic`s blown
those are the cheap ic`s here in holland

so i`m gonna protect the machine intern with a unit to protect the machine against power peaks

the record system is now good,only the ccc not...but it will comes

till so far my update

greetz from holland

[richard2010]

hai alan

is it possible to order a ccc somewhere
i found out after a evening measuring that the normal ic`s are gone,but also the programmed ic`s

so the eletronics of this machine has had a power peak or something like that and destroyed the ccc

i hope somebody can help me with a new ccc its number 6-08870-04

greetz from holland

[ami-man]

Hello Richard,

If you require a replacement CCC then the only place you will be able to sourse one is by looking on Ebay. More than likely a working CCC could be found by a USA seller, but check with the seller that it has been tested. You may have to pay more than £100 to get one.

If you wish to send the board to me for testing/repair please contact me off line.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[richard2010]

hai alan

found indeed a seller in america for the board

i can ship it to them for repair or change for another one
so i send a mail to them and the answert with the following thing...we dont send out the usa

so here i am with a juke that can not select

i find out on the board that the microprosessor is gone,the 8v reaches the chip,but no signal out to the keypad

i,m looking now to somebody who has this type of chip

maybe you somebody

because there 3 chips on it they are programmed,and i want to change them

in europe nobody has something for this machine

in holland and belgium there are some people who are repairs ami
and they all say that this type of machine from rowe and all closed jukes from them are trash
cause they have al lot of problems and difficult to repair

they give me one advice,do spent to much and if it not working sell it in spare parts

now i have been searching around for a couple of days for chips for the board
i`m beginning to thinking those guys are right

i also found an old rockola where the outer case is cracked,but the juke is working fine
when i`m not capable to find the stuff for the rowe,i trow out of all the stuff of rowe and built in the rock ola system

i like the case of this model from rowe and i want to change it to something special

i hope you know something for the chips

greetz from holland

[ami-man]

Hi Richard,

From what you say I am your best hope to get this repaired in Europe.
I will email you with our full details and estimated prices etc.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[richard2010]

hello

here the last update for the juke
i`m done with it,i know what it is and spare parts are very difficult to find in europe
so the juke is going away,as one piece or scrap(anybody needs something)

i bought today a rock ola 404 for very cheap,also with problems but i know now allready what the problems are and how to fix

so i will have more fun with this machine than with the ami---no more ami for me

greetz from holland

[ami-man]

Hello Richard,

Sorry that you have given up on the Rowe Ami, I hope you have better luck with the Rock Ola 404 Capri (1963).

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[richard2010]

hello alan

thank you for your last message

i put the ami in the basement,maybe i will find a computer later somewhere otherwise it will be spareparts for other machines here in europe

i`m still busy with the rock ola
it is very easy to find materials for replacement
i`m done the chromework,amplifier,stepper and playing mechanism
i`m now waiting for the last little pieces for the machine

went last week to belgium(mechelen)there was show with jukes and gaming machines and also spare parts
found myself a wallbox matching with the machine i have now

so the rock ola is getting a great machine

i maybe getting an ami back in here,i`m busy with a guy who has a ami lyric for sale with work
i did him an offer...who knows

greetz from holland

p.s if there`s people from europe or else who needs spare parts from an ami/rowe r85 contact me
machine is good,computer is bad(having it`s own live)

[JayhawkJones]

Hello! I'm a new owner of a Rowe CD100E, and I've already got a problem -- hopefully you can help me out.

I listened to it play a CD at the store, it played fine. Got it home, it still is playing fine. Listened to a few odd CDs in it on Saturday and Sunday, no problems.

Sunday night I decide to go for it and load it up with 100 CDs. I initialize it and it initializes 85 of the 100 CDs. I went ahead and played a few of the 85 working CDs... but two songs in, the juke starts putting down and picking up CDs without playing them.

So I replaced the 15 bad CDs and went to re-initialize. Now it's not initializing ANY CDs -- it tells me 0 are initialized. I cleared the earlier initialization, turned it off, unplugged it for the evening and started over the next day. Once again, it tells me zero CDs are initialized.

I watched the CD player on the initialization that worked -- it took a good 30 seconds or so with each CD. Now, it only takes maybe 3 seconds with each CD, and barely spins it but a few times before putting it back.

Any ideas? I've got the manual but didn't really see anything like this in the troubleshooting section.

Thanks a bunch!

[Kevin Mullins]

I don't know about jukebox specific, but it sounds like the CD player is not "seeing" the discs. Maybe a dirty laser lens in the player itself.

Just guessing on where I personally would look first.

[JayhawkJones]

I just spoke with the resident jukebox expert where I bought the game (Palmentere Coin Op http://www.coinop-sales.com/index.html in Kansas City, Mo. -- great guys) and he thinks I need to run a "default." I'm at work right now, but he's going to talk me through it once I get home.

But I agree, Kevin -- I wonder if my lens got dirty... I did Windex almost all the CDs before I put them in.

Right now, I'm excited... I've been frustrated these last couple days since I can't get it to play, but I feel like I'm going to get it up and running soon (knock on wood).

[satisfair]

writeing from montreal canada,i'm new with a jukebox,so help is needed i have a r-85 rowe ami and  it doesn't stop turn the record hold what can it be?

[JayhawkJones]

Well, no luck so far. I wasn't able to catch the guy on the phone before he left work.

I looked at the lens, blew it off... tried initializing just one CD... still no luck.

[ami-man]

Hi JayhawkJones,

I would check out the jukebox for dry joints (called cold joints in the USA, cracking around the soldered joint) on the connection pins on each of the boards.
Start with the mech control decoder, CCC and while you are at it check out the power supply PCB for the same.

If you are unsure what to do then send in your boards and laser to Bruce Wentworth at
www.abjukeboxrepair.com or any other good Rowe Ami specialist.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ami-man]

writeing from montreal canada,i'm new with a jukebox,so help is needed i have a r-85 rowe ami and  it doesn't stop turn the record hold what can it be?

Hello satisfair,

When you turn on the jukebox does it spin and stop after going around about a revolution and a third or does it keep spinning round?
When it is spinning round does the index led on the mechanism control board flash also does the home led flash when the mechanism goes pat number 99?

Do you have a manual for this jukebox? If not get one.
As in the last message check for dry joints to the connection pins only on all of the boards.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[JayhawkJones]

Here's an update:

I got a hold of my guy on the phone (turns out he was waiting for my call last night, they just forgot to transfer the phones from the front office). He has me run the "default." Try to play a CD, still not working. He suggests I take a q-tip and clean the lens with some alcohol and try again in ten minutes and call back.

As soon as I get off the phone, I try another CD, just to see. It plays! I try another CD. It plays!

I try a third (and fourth and fifth) CD... back to the same problem of picking up and putting down with no music... dang. (I clean off the lens to see if that helps, no luck.)

I call in and tell him about this. He thinks something is wrong with my player that may have happened in transport.

SO... I'm going to remove the player this weekend. On Monday, I'm taking it back to Kansas City, and he's going to trade me a working player to install back in my machine.

[wink of an eye]

hi all,newbie here
i have a rowe CD100 in which i converted it to a downloader jukebox
some of the equalizer controls are  frozen or either hard to turn
what is the right way to free them up ? thanks

[Ken Layton]

Nu-Trol volume control spray cleaner lube made by www.mgchemicals.com

Just give each control a quick shot of the spray and rotate the control all the way back and forth a few times. It'll be as good as new again.

[wink of an eye]

Nu-Trol volume control spray cleaner lube made by www.mgchemicals.com

Just give each control a quick shot of the spray and rotate the control all the way back and forth a few times. It'll be as good as new again.

thanks,Ken
will get some and try it out

[JayhawkJones]

Update: I have a working jukebox now!!!

Something was wrong with the player. Now that I've installed a new one, everything is playing like a charm. Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions!

Quick question: How important is it to initialize all your CDs? My juke is playing just fine right now, and I haven't done this yet. Is this only done to weed out non-working CDs, or are there other benefits?

[ami-man]

Hi Jayhawkjones,

Glad to hear your laser head is working ok.
Yes you will need to initialise the CD's so it knows what the CD's are (how many tracks etc) in order to play them.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ami-man]

Hi,

Sorry off on holiday for a week, I will answer any messages on my return.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ARCO coffee]

Hi,
TIA for any hints.
I have a R88 with ccc issues.
The basket will keep rotating endlessly with all mec control led's on except the cancel.  In service mode the ccc's leds do not display.
I swapped in another ccc from a r89 sitting here and everything worked great.
So I spent a weekend probing all the semiconductors on the board and reflowed all the solder joints on all the pins.
All the semiconductors read within a few ohms of the good board.  I'm suspecting the custom programed chip given the multitude of symptoms.
Any thoughts or hints, this is really bugging me and I wanna fix it myself.

[ami-man]

Hello ARCO coffee,

Are you sure that the jukebox that you have a fault on is a R-88. The reason for asking is that the R-88 uses the larger type CCC 6-08870-06 and the R-89 uses the smaller type 4-0773-05 they can not be interchanged.

Does the the home light come on at location 99 and does the index light come on at each record location? if not you have an issue with the Mechanism Control or the opto switch.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ARCO coffee]

Thanks for the hints, it is the same ccc I swapped in and that fixed the problem.  Could be the amp heat shield-cover was swapped with another, it does not fit quite right.  Both cccs were the -04 version

I fixed an additional ccc also a -04 from a unit that started or was heavily involved with a fire (we call her Burnie) and it works in my juke fine too.  I could probably call her a parts model but I think that I can bring burnie back too.

I'm just bugged by this defunct ccc sitting in my garage looking forlorn at me every day. 

[ARCO coffee]

Nice call on the models.
I checked the functional ccc's came from an r86 and a r88, the one in my garage is an r87.
The r89 is the one we are using in the plant.

Too many numbers especially if you include the 2 r82 -s and the r83 we are buttoning up in the shop.

[ami-man]

Hi ARCO coffee,

The model numbers that are come in 4 sets of Electronic models are as follows:-

R-80S (Rowe used up the R-80 cabinets and this box was a forerunner of the R-81) through to R-83 including the RI-2 and CTI-1SC.

R-84 to R-88 including the RI-3 to RI-5 and CTI-2.

R89 to R-94.

CD versions CD-100 upwards

In addition the early Antique Apperatus One More Time used Rowe Ami vinyl and CD mechanisms and parts.


Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ronnie-dent]

Hi looking for some help with a cadette cmm-1 busy restoring this at the moment, have some issues with the amp! when first powered loud noise like an engine running! this dies down after a period of time to a constant buzz or hum not as loud but still not right, I think it will be capacitors but which one's, the amp has no valves.

I also think the psu might need some attention also, I can hear a crackle now and then coming from it like sparking noise, hope all this makes sense, would like to start locating the parts needed to have on hand when I get to the electrics part, busy on cosmetics at the moment.

any help greatly apreciated

thanks Ronnie

[ami-man]

Hi Ronnie,

What country do you live in?
If you were in the UK I would suggest you contact me off of line.
If you are in the USA I have a few contacts that may be of use to you.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[ronnie-dent]

Hi Alan thanks for the reply I'm in the UK (Scotland) will send you an email

thanks Ronnie

[IROCPOP88]

Jukebox newbie with recently purchased R-74 who needs some guidance.  I don't know electronics but my father does --we now have schematics so when he visits he can help.

Records were playing fine.  Last one finished and arm placed it back into wheel as normal.  I push credit button inside (it's not set for free play) and nothing.  Selection buttons don't take as you would expect.  I flip switch to manually move wheel and nothing.  Moving it forward I can hear a 'click' well below the turntable.  Looks and sounds like a contact is made but there is no mechanical action.  I've hit reset buttons and nothing.  All lights work.  The wheel will turn by hand so I know it isn't stuck.  I've rotated a small steel cylinder on left side below turntable which moved the arm and pulled a record to the turntable then replaced it to the wheel.

Hopefully, I provided enough detail that someone can offer insight to the problem.  Otherwise, I live in Central Pennsylvania and have no idea where to turn to for technical help. 

Thanks - Irocpop
 

[ami-man]

Hello Irocpop,

Being as you now have the manual for this jukebox check that you have the voltages at the power supply.
These are 30 volts DC, 30 volts AC
Pin 1 30 VDC
Pin 2 30 VAC
Pin 3 Common (linked to pins 4 & 6)

Check that the mechanism is plugged in at the molex on the lefthand side and that the cable to the Search Unit is plugged in (this comes from the keyboard) also that the molex is plugged in on the Credit Unit also that the molex is plugged in on the keyboard.

If you can not contact anyone local who repairs Rowe Ami jukeboxes I would contact Bruce Wentworth at AB Leisure in the USA for repairs or spare parts.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Skeptic73]

Rowe Laserstar Saturn CD100I
I noticed I am getting very low crackled sound out of my left channel internal speakers. I switched the pink and purple wires on the output transformer assembly to test the speakers. The speakers are good. I hooked up external speakers and I am getting the same from the left channel. I hooked up a 70 v outdoor speaker and the result is the same for the left channel. Could the left channel transformer be bad?
Can I hook pink and purple and external all to the right channel without damaging that transformer? Where can I get a replacement transformer. Could the problem be  down the line from the left channel? Perhaps a blown amp channel? Is there a way to take the wires feeding the output transformer from the amp and switch left and right channel to see if the amp is still good. If the problem lies with the amp can I replace components on it and which ones? Thanks for your time.

Sent from my iPad

[Skeptic73]

I forgot to mention both internal Woofers work? I'm not sure if this is an indicator of a good amp or bad output transformer channel.

[ami-man]

Hello Anthony,

You need to check the phono output on the amplifier to determine if the fault is on the amplifier or output package.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Skeptic73]

 I found a couple blown fuses on the back of the amp, the lower driver board.

[Skeptic73]

The fuses blew again instantly on the driver board for my left channel. Any ideas?

[Ken Layton]

Amplifier needs to be serviced.

[lilshawn]

if they immediately blow, you need to change the transistor driver pair.

it's a 2N6284 and a 2N6287. replace BOTH on the channel affected. NEW GREASE and make sure the insulators go back on.

also check the small board screwed to the underside of the heat sink. it has a couple of diodes on it. make sure the solder is still good, sometimes they work lose and if they don't connect properly, it will cause the amp to fry the transistors.

if you feel intimidated, have it serviced by someone. those transistors are rather pricey, and if you don't properly get it back to 100
%, you'll blow the channel again as soon as you power up.

[Skeptic73]

 Thanks, Ill give it a try.

[lilshawn]

I want to replace the 8 ohm subs in my 100E but the only ones i have available right now are 4 ohm.

is there something i can do to the crossover to accommodate this change?

OR

could i place a 4ohm resistor in line to make it (around) 8 ohms?

OR

just find different subs?

OR

other suggestions?

[ami-man]

Hi lilshawn,

There someone selling a complete set of tested speakers for Rowe Ami CD100E on Ebay.
Here is the listing number.
Item number: 310259403051
Item location: Tamaqua, PA, United States

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Skeptic73]

I ordered three pairs of transistors on ebay, just waiting. Thanks.

[Skeptic73]

Here she is sitting quietly and patiently waiting for the amp to be rebuilt.

[lilshawn]

shhhh!.... it's sleeeeeping!

[JayhawkJones]

Hi Alan,

My CD-100E is running great, I'm loving having it in my basement.

I was having some troubles with it a while back (all resolved, thankfully) and you asked if I had a new or old carousel on the machine... I don't know the answer to your question, but I've included a few photos so hopefully you can tell me what I have, and if any action is necessary...

Thanks!

 Seth

[ami-man]

Hello Seth,

I can tell from your pictures that the Mechanism has been converted or is one of the later types with the open basket.
The reason for the modification kit or later type basket is to rectify the handling of the CD's The orginal type basket scratched the CD's making them prone to errors.

The kit supplied by Rowe Ami included a new basket, bracket, gripper bow and transfer cam.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[JayhawkJones]

That good news! Thanks.

Here's a general question: the jukebox always returns the pages to the first page (displaying CDs 0-11) if it's been inactive for a while.

Is this necessary? Can I disable that function?

It would be nice if I didn't always have to look at the album art from CDs 0-11 all the time.

Thanks,

Seth

[Ken Layton]

The retrofit basket kit only applied to the CD100, some early run CD100A, and the CD Eagle wall mount juke.

Software functions 20 and 21 turn off the attract mode title page flipping.

[ami-man]

Hello,

I am on holiday until 17th of November, I am sure Ken will advise you all with regards to Rowe Ami problems.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Skeptic73]

I finally got my replacement Transistors for my 250 Watt amp in my CD100I. I made the switch and the left channel sounds worse than before. There's a hum every five seconds or so and a lot of other interference. I just hooked up my internal speakers both to the right channel. I will leave off any externals until I can buy another amp. So sad, I thought she was going to get her fix.

[Ken Layton]

And you put the correct transistors in the correct locations? You did install a fresh mica insulator as well as coat both sides of the insulator with silicone heat sink grease?

You tested the transistors on both driver boards too? Checked the large resistors on the driver boards for any open ones? Replaced the fuses on the driver boards?

[Skeptic73]

They didn't come with insulators? The ones I removed from the amp didn't have insulators on them either? Could that be my issue? Will the transistor short out if it makes contact with the heat sink? Will I need to replace them again now?
There is something I need to look at again though. There's a small connector that I couldn't see a place for. It comes off the back side of one of the amps plugs next to the driver boards.. Not sure where that connects to.  I took the thing apart over a month ago. I should've taken pictures. Damn slow boat from China. I saw an amp for sale on ebay last night. I really don't have the money to spend since I've been out of work for over six months. I did notice in one of the photos the wires path seems to go straight over to the right. I'll look at it again today.

[Skeptic73]

I found where the loose wire went. I do have power on that channel which was previously out. My fuses aren't blowing anymore. I'll assume the transistors were the solution. I do have interference in that channel though. I will have to find a pair of insulators. I found one laying around but I replaced the pair of transistors for the channel so I don't know which or if both could be my problem. Can anyone recommend a place to find these other than China I don't want to wait another month.

[Skeptic73]

I just found a pair of insulators and went to put them in and discovered the old ones were stuck on the heatsink. Anyway Im going to try her again.

[Skeptic73]

Same deal, Distorted audio from left channel.

[Ken Layton]

Transistors available here:

http://www.cdadapter.com/repair.htm

Scroll down almost halfway on the page and you'll see them.

[Skeptic73]

I replaced the bottom pair for my left channel which were blown. Is that link you posted suggesting changing both pairs? Or is it saying the two in the pair? I did order extra so I guess changing the other pair wouldn't hurt.

[Ken Layton]

I only change the pair that are blown.

After changing the output transistors, did you also perform the "bias adjustment" on the driver board?

[Skeptic73]

Nope, How do you do that?

[Ken Layton]

Bias adjustment is in the manuals.

[liverol]

hi just wondered if you could help me, i have bought a jukebox but it didnt have a needle in it so i have bought another one which fitted into the cartridge but when i play the records (45rpm) it sounds as though they are playing slightly slower than they should (though it is spinning at 45rpm), i believe that the cartridge is not the original one which was in the jukebox. so my question is, does it matter what needle you put in or are there different needles to play 45's, 33's & 78's? are info would be gratefully received as the jukebox is a xmas present for my dad & im trying to get it up & running in time many thanks graham

[lilshawn]

unless the cartridge is exceptionally heavy, i wouldn't think it's the issue. your arm should basically float with a minimum of weight pushing the needle down.

your drive motor for the turntable might be getting wore out. also check the voltage going to the motor, if it's low you might have a bad connector somewhere along the line. try giving the plugs a little wiggle. might clear you right up.

[liverol]

hi ive found out it originally had a shure m44 cartridge & stylus when new, im not sure what cartridge it has in it now but the stylus i bought to go in it is Coner RCS R608 Stylus (324). Somebody else has said that just because the stylus fits the cartridge it still may not be the correct one for that cartridge. Do you think that if i bought a different cartridge & stylus together that it would correct the problem? & would it have to be a shure or would say a technics cartridge & needle work ok? the juke box is a rowe ami cadette mm-1, also another question, is it possible to set it to free play or do i need to just keep clicking the credits on manually, so for the questions but i feel ive been screwed over as i paid £400 for it & im getting a little stressed about getting it working before xmas to give to my dad, thanks for any help kind regards graham

[roberts123]

Hello everybody, quick question on some spare parts and a little problem on my Ami Rowe R-81. First is I need to find a needle for the jukebox. I don't know any places around. I live in London, Ohio, USA. and second my volume is either off or turns up too loud for my liking and don't know how to fix it thank you for the help.

[liverol]

have you looked on ebay? this person seems to have various stylus for jukeboxes....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STYLUS-Elac-DM2-AMI-juke-jukebox-NEEDLE-Rowe-AMI-Conti-/280604360094?pt=AU_CoinOp&hash=item415552bd9e

hope it helps regards graham

[lilshawn]

my volume is either off or turns up too loud for my liking and don't know how to fix it thank you for the help.

sounds like the volume potentiometer has been changed with a wrong one, or the one you have is wore out.

your looking for a 10k LOGARITHMIC potentiometer not a LINEAR, you need one especially for audio to replace it. a normal "pot" will do nothing, nothing, nothing, then BAM! it's super loud. Were a proper "log" pot will start out quiet and gradually get louder until the end.

[roberts123]

Not to sure about this but figured I would ask about it before i go and buy a new potentiometer which i was able to find the one in Columbus. But the potentiometer has three little progs sticking out the side of it but i only have two wires hooked up to it. Could this be causing the problem with the volume. Thank you for your help.

[lilshawn]

no that's correct, you should only be using the middle and one of the outside prongs.

the difference is in the layer of resistance material around the rotation.

this little page should let you know... give the section on "taper" a read, it explains my earlier post. I'm thinking you have the wrong type.
http://www.bcae1.com/potentio.htm

[ami-man]

Hello,

With regards to the Rowe Ami R-81 yes the volume control to use is a 10k log pot but with regards to wiring it depends on what pre amplifier is used in the amplifier.

Two pre amp boards can be fitted, these are R-3788 and R-3805.

The R-3788 board is the standard board and the control for this is a single 10k log pot.
The R-3805 board is a split chanel board that requires a double 10k log pot, this pre amplifier therefore uses a five wire screened cable and all six connection are used on the control.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[roberts123]

my volume is either off or turns up too loud for my liking and don't know how to fix it thank you for the help.

sounds like the volume potentiometer has been changed with a wrong one, or the one you have is wore out.

your looking for a 10k LOGARITHMIC potentiometer not a LINEAR, you need one especially for audio to replace it. a normal "pot" will do nothing, nothing, nothing, then BAM! it's super loud. Were a proper "log" pot will start out quiet and gradually get louder until the end.

Got the new logarithmic potentiometer today and put it on. No it sounds amazing I can keep it quiet but when I need to it can rock out. Thank you for the help sounds really nice now.

[lilshawn]

**double thumbs up**

[roberts123]

I have a Rowe R-81 and I was wondering if it would be possible to add more speakers to it. I have the 4 speakers in it now (two 6x9 and two Subs) but I was thinking about aadding more speakers to put them in the upstairs it is loud enough so i can here it all through out my basement but I use sound up stairs. I was wondering if it would be able to add more speakers so i get all-round sound in the house. Thank you for any help.

[ami-man]

Hello,

Yes you can add more speakers to the jukebox, If your amplifier is the original 64 watt 602-02179 (can be marked just 2179A), back in the days when we had jukeboxes on site I have connected several 30 watt speakers to this amplifier. The connections have to be correct so that the output is never under 4 ohms per channel.

Also if you are connecting more speakers drop the phono speakers downa tapping or two to prevent overload and to balance the overall sound.

Bye the way the jukebox is looking great with all the labelling etc.
 
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[langleybea]

Hi Alan i``me still after help with my romantica R1 I have replaced the arm that would not track across the disc it is working fine in that regard,but now it is not picking up at the end of play i must have disturbed something else. can you help,thanks Norman.UK manchester.

[ami-man]

Hi Norman,

I suggest you email me or give me a call, if the jukebox is a Romantica then it is a RI-5 not a RI-1.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
0114 247 0242 phone
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[Jason.M]

This is a cross post from the Jukebox-List, but because it's moderated, i'm not sure when that one will be posted.  In the mean time, I thought I'd ask here.

I have recently purchased a 1967 AMI MM1 from an individual that said it's been in his dad's game room since before he was born (30+ years I'm guessing).  He told me that it hadn't been played in 5 years due to his father taking out the needle cartridge in hopes of finding a new one.  I paid $280 for it, but that's after I talked him down from $400.  If it wasn't a good deal, don't tell my wife.

Here's picture of it.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IEdukMNhJA99lrEq8qZPxw?feat=directlink

The juke looks unmolested but it is in need of some adjustment and lubrication.  I have the maintenance manual for it, but before I dive in knee deep in gears, I wanted to check with the expert community to make sure I don't cause more problems as I try to fix the current one's I have.  I am mechanically inclined, but I don't have a lot of experience on the electrical side.  This is my first jukebox so a lot of the concepts and terminology I've reviewed in the manual are new to me but sinking in.

Because there is no needle, I haven't been able to listen to this Juke yet (Shure 44 cartridge is on order), but I have pin-pointed a few items that will need to be fixed outside of that. 

When I first powered this unit on and made a selection it dropped some records, the transfer arm was not moving in sync with the pins and it seemed sluggish. I've posed a video of one of the first issues I saw.  However, it doesn't seem to be doing what you see in this video anymore.



Now the pins seem to be getting out of the arms way, but it only plays one side of the record, regardless of the selection.  Additionally, the record it pulls doesn't match the selection made (it grabs the record to the right of what it should).  And lastly, this unit fails to grip the record after the record is played.  The top of the arm slips over the record and the record stays on the deck (as you can see in this video).



The manual describes the adjustment points pretty well, but I haven't yet figured out how much disassembly is required to properly access each of the areas required to adjust/align.  I've also seen the lubrication points in the manual, it calls for "light machine oil" and "silicone grease" but I'm unsure on what brand/type I can use from my local stores.  I've read all about how not to use WD40 in many posts on the internet. 

In all, I think that these problems are isolated to one section and everything else seems to be functioning as expecting.  Multiple selections are stored and recalled correctly (not accounting for the alignment issue above), the amp turns on and off with the record drop and all the lights work.  We can talk again once I get the needle installed. 

Thanks for any help provided,
Jason M.
Austin, Tx.

[ami-man]

Hi Jason,

The 1967 Rowe Ami MM-1 (Music Merchant) looks tidy but someone has removed the two sheets out of the front of the jukebox.
These sheets were made of a clear plastic with one sheet that had the colours of the scene and a front sheet that had the black outline of the scene.
These scenes were called the "Change-A-Scene" there were three in total, these were a picture of New York showing the bridge, a fairground and Musical Instruments and Musicians. The panel then had a clear front glass.

With regards to the issues you are having as per your video clips would indicate that there is an issue with the gripper bow. Check out your manual on how to remove this and strip it down completley and wash it in soapy water. check all the parts for wear and replace the trunion and cam gear if they show any signs of wear.
Rebuild all the parts after drying them and place high melting point grease in the two sockets at each end of the trunion (this is the alloy casting that the gripper bow goes through) DO NOT USE ANY OTHER LUBRICATION!

While you have the gripper bow off check that the adjustments for the Tone Arm Cam and the Gear, Trunion and Cam Drive  (part number 400-05014) is adjusted correctly.
Replace the Gripper bow assembly and recheck the operation of the transfer.
The only place that lubrication is required is to the idler wheel linkage, turntable shaft and the turntable motor. All that is required is one drop of oil per location. I would first wash all these parts in soapy water (other than the motor which is best stripped down and cleaned to remove old oil build up)
Please let us know how you get on.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Skeptic73]

     I have a few questions about biasing my amp. It's a 250 watt in my Rowe cd 100 i Saturn. I replaced the transistors on the right channel about a year ago. I think Ken replied somewhere along that biasing was in the manuals. I searched for a post or more specific instructions and couldn't come up with anything. I would love to have this thing working 100% again. Can someone give me detailed instructions to get me started or point out to me exactly where in my set of manuals biasing is covered. The ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- is Greek to me.
      Also I have three of those preamp kits for my jukebox. Will they take any RCA input source. I was either thinking of mounting one of my iPods to the front or using my airport express adapter and installing it in the jukebox to get the jukebox on my network to stream iTunes. The airport express has a mini to RCA output and I currently have it streaming to the input on a receiver in my garage.
      I have some parts for Rowe CD 100 on ebay currently if anyone is looking.    http://www.ebay.com/sch/1stellarseller22/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686] [url]http://www.ebay.com/sch/1stellarseller22/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686[/url]