Control panel assembly

[Donpatchi]

Hi,

I already posted this in my project anouncement post but not much reaction up to now so I tought i'd post my question here too.

I am currently building a control panel and I have a question about the assembly. It is a box with a flat top panel on it.

I would like to be able to acces the insides with the possibility to still remove the top panel. My initial thought is to make the bottom plate removable and from there it would then be possible to remove the control panel. I would like to hear from experienced people how they did this.

My second thought would be to make the top panel with hinges but I am a bit afraid for the stability of the top panel then. So when you pull a bit hard on the sticks would it then not open. Should i add some magnets on the other side of the panel to make it stronger? Wich kind of hinges are recomended

I'm totaly clueless but I realy want to do this right. I tried to find the posts here but nobody ever shows any details about this.

Included some image to clarify my wall of text.

Please advice.

[bkenobi]

Someone posted a link to some heavy duty cabinet hinges a while back.  Some of those hinges have a tab that you can pull/push and it will disconnect thus allowing you to remove the door (or top in your case).

[Turnarcades]

I would go with 'either/or', but not both. Having the panel hinged is something we do on our cabs and lifting during play is certainly not something we experience, particularly with the bigger the panel gets. Use a piano hinge along the full length of the front edge for a secure lift and maybe put a simple lift-catch underneath (like under a car bonnet) to prop it up if you want to. Securing at the back edge can be done with good-quality roller cupboard catches like these for a decent grab that will not lift in normal use if fitted correctly:



Added strength (if you are a particularly paranoid builder and aggressive player) can be made by just adding more catches.

[cyapps]

Securing at the back edge can be done with good-quality roller cupboard catches like these for a decent grab that will not lift in normal use if fitted correctly:

Added strength (if you are a particularly paranoid builder and aggressive player) can be made by just adding more catches.

That might work perfectly for my problem too, I completely overlooked using catches like those! I am using a track and field cabinet and since it has a overhang it looks like I will have to hinge my cp on the back and lock the front down.

[Ginsu Victim]

I have a Track and Field for my MAME cab, so I look forward to seeing what you plan on doing.

[cyapps]

Do you have anything on the project posted?

[Ginsu Victim]

Do you have anything on the project posted?

Nothing special. No steps or how-tos, just a before and after.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=78532.0

[syph007]

Im not planning to go the hinged route since I have multiple panels that will need to swap, so I've been thinking about a method to secure them as well.  My first try was going to be industrial velcro like the project arcade book uses.  If that doesnt work I'll have to try some latch type system with underneath access.

[Turnarcades]

Im not planning to go the hinged route since I have multiple panels that will need to swap, so I've been thinking about a method to secure them as well.  My first try was going to be industrial velcro like the project arcade book uses.  If that doesnt work I'll have to try some latch type system with underneath access.

Double roller-catches all round may work for you too - half-decent ones have a surprising amount of grip as rather than latching on the surface like magnets or velcro, the shape of the widened catch head gives good resistance behind the nylon rollers. For a fully-removable modular setup, I'd use 2 on each inside edge (assuming a square box of course).

Cyapps - hinging the front edge is still possible and usually better even with an overhang - you never flip a panel all the way over anyway so raising it to vertical is fine. With your cab design anyway, hinging at the back would likely not work as you have to think of the lifted panel fouling against the monitor glass - here's what I mean if you have trouble visualising:

[Donpatchi]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I think i am going for a hinged panel now. I  can always add extra securing points if it seems necesary.

A piano hinge seems the easiest to do,  but my preference goes to the european hinge. We actualy use those on all of our closets and on all the doors of our kitchens. I will have to investigate if I can do it on my CP. Anyone has some guidelines? Distances etc?