That seems to be a loaded question
. Assuming you have any issues, if you bring them up and say "what can be done to fix this?", how can anyone take that as being a jerk?
If there's a way, it will be found. Trust me.
I just spent 3 hours with it, and did some comparisons with Guncons on a PS2.
First of all, no software tweaks or firmware upgrade. My machine is a 98SE based unit and the supplied software requires .NET to run. I've never been able to get it to take on this machine for some reason, so everything is "out of the box" as far as settings are concerned.
My machine has a 27" tube and a piece of dark tinted plexi (invisible to IR) for the front window. If I put the LEDs on top, it would be behind the bezel, so I used a chunk of 3M automotive double sticky and stuck it on the screen just above the active part.
Advice: if you have a large screen, get the LED's as close to the active part as possible. I then took a look from the side of the machine and bent the LED's so they were straight out toward the front.
Like everyone else, I started out by holding the unit in my hand. It moved the cursor. So far so good. Next I taped a laser pointer to the board, and tried to calibrate. Crazy problems. Basically the same type of issues shown in the video. I was able to get close a couple of times, but there always seemed to be a significant error in some part of the screen.
Advice: Don't do this. It's way too easy to tilt the unit when it's in your hand, and tilting is not something you want to do while calibrating. So I gave up playing and committed myself to at least getting the board mounted in the GunCon2 shell (bad ebay seller experience, made good by ebay...ended up being free

). Whittled away a little chunk of plastic inside the barrel and hot melted the board into place, making sure it was as square and level to the barrel as possible. Initially I was concerned that the camera board was not square to the rest of the unit, but it appears to be intentional. I used the main board as my reference.
Immediately, I saw an improvement. The gun grip provides a much better reference to keep things in a consistent orientation from calibration through to use. But even so, I was still seeing problems. It seemed like no matter what I did, I couldn't get a good calibration at 3' from the monitor face, even though the camera could technically, "see" the lights.
I was getting a little frustrated so I decided to go out and play with the GunCon2 on the PS2. The simplicity of setting up these can really be appreciated after what I was dealing with, but you can't use a GunCon2 on an LCD, and the LCDTopGuns are no walk in the part to set up and use either, so that's no knock specifically against the AimTrak. My GunCon2s are on a 37" monitor, so keep that in mind when I talk about deviation. What sounds large on this screen would be quite small on more average sized screens. OK, one shot in the center of the screen from about 5' back and the the cursor was following the sights from between dead-on in the center to about 1/4" off (remember the scale) toward the corners. Extreme edges with the GunCon2's are pretty much out of the question. The top is pretty good, the bottom is rough (can only accurately get within 3/4" of the frame), and the sides are so-so, with one being good right to the edge and the other giving up about 3/8" from the edge. Tracking is silky smooth with the GunCons, and lag is minimal. Compared to the AimTrak, lag is about the same, but cursor movement appears to be smoother (on my machines.)
Ok, back to playing with the AimTrak. Two more attempts at calibration and then decided to drop back a foot. There was an unquestionable improvement.
Advice: Don't push the distance thing. Move back to the furthest point you will be happy with, and start there. So I "trick" calibrated about 3 more times, using the best skillz I acquired from the LCDTopGun, and watched the cursor track my sights to within about 1/4" (again, remember the 27" screen size) from 4' away. The bottom is still a little sketchy, but no worse than with the GunCon2's on the PS2.
Advice: Once you find a spot where you can get good calibration, remember it, mark it, do whatever you need to do to make sure you play from that point the next time.Finally happy that things were looking good, I decided to try T2. The cursor seemed choppy, so I disabled the mouse support and left lightgun enabled. Still choppy. Rebooted the system and tried again. This time, the cursor was running smooth and I was able to pop robots without paying attention to the cursor, even though the trigger switch was on a wire in my left hand and the gun case wasn't even screwed together. I think I might have actually smiled at that point in time. The wet blanket came 5 minutes into the game when I forgot to let off on the fire button before the 5 seconds was up and it went into calibration mode.
Advice to Andy: Default the hardware to go into calibration mode when the trigger is held off-screen for 10 seconds. Much less likely to happen by mistake.I'll close this terribly long post with some observations:
Just having the light from the LED's strike the CCD does not seem to be enough for good calibration to be possible. There seems to be a "sweet spot" that is based on the distance between the LED's and the center of the screen, the distance between LED's and camera, and the elevation difference. It's my opinion that the OP's videos were showing an attempt to use the gun outside of this sweet spot, either too close or at a poor elevation relationship between camera and LEDs.
If GunCon2 performance on the PC is anything like GunCon2 performance on the PS2, and one is using a tube based monitor, I can't come up with a compelling reason to switch to an AimTrak. There are more limitations inherent in the technology it uses, and the accuracy is about the same when well calibrated.
The calibration routines as they are currently need help. Pointing at a location where screen meets bezel is never as good as pointing at an on-screen target. It also leaves tube users at a disadvantage, as some overscan is almost always present. And because tube screens are not nearly as geometrically perfect as LCD or plasma screens, a 3 point calibration may not be enough with this type of technology. "Trick calibration" is a mostly unintuitive process and shouldn't be required of the user. This was also a shortcoming of the LCDTopGun.
The accuracy shown in the LCDTopGun videos in this thread probably aren't going to be achieved by the AimTrak. But the AimTrak has less lag, and when properly calibrated, enough accuracy to be a better solution in actual use.
I wish the software didn't need .NET to run. Probably not a big deal for most. Was for me.
Conclusion:
If you have an non-tube display that isn't huge, don't mind being back maybe just a hair farther than you would otherwise like to be, and have a specific shooting stance you will always use, then you would be crazy not to give this a shot. Within it's limitations, it seems to work well. You just need to understand what the limitations are, and patiently adjust.
If you have a tube display (especially a larger one) and you want to get closer to it, you might want to look at the GunCon2 and PC drivers first. Even if the distance doesn't bother you (it's pretty acceptable, even with a 27") you may still want to hold off a bit until the calibration routines take tubes into consideration a little better. If you are used to "trick calibration" techniques from using LCDTopGuns, then it might not be a big deal for you. If not, you might end up really frustrated, really quickly.
Personally, I'm happy I purchased it and am looking forward to revisiting some of the old titles with the new toy.
RandyT