CPS2 Upright self build

[elaverick]

Hi,
  I'm reasonably new to the site (you might have noticed a few of my posts around the place) and I thought I'd come along and share a bit of what I'm up to at the moment. I'm currently working on an upright cabinet based on Koenigs plans but with a few slight changes.  It's not going to be a MAME system, instead I'm building a proper JAMMA cab designed for CPS-2 games and I'm also looking to pop a Naomi unit in there as well (the basic idea is that I want to be able to run the complete Marvel/Capcom series from one cab, with the possible addition of some SNK goodness as well).

I'm going for quite a minimalist look (I'm keeping the cabinet art to a complete minimum), I've gone for all white Sanwa controls and I'm aiming for a piano black finish on the exterior (though I suspect I'll come to regret that later in the project).

I'll try and post some pics as I go but for now here are the sides and a paritally assembled cab (to work out monitor placement) as well as the marquee (the only piece of "art" I'm planning on having).

[emphatic]

Cool project, looking forward to your updates. So, will you use a tri-sync monitor, an upscaler for the CPS2 or utilize the 15khz functions of the NAOMI on a lo-res screen? If you haven't gotten the NAOMI already, may I suggest you get a Dreamcast, hack it for JAMMA and use it instead, as it'll load the games faster than the NAOMI?

[elaverick]

Thanks for your kind welcome.

The monitor is looking like a bit of a PITA right now.  I've been told it should be a Tri-Sync monitor (it's an LCD panel), but I'm not 100% convinced so I might need to upscale

I do already have the Naomi, (hadn't realised it was particularly slow loading) but that's mostly because I want the real arcade experience (that is the real experience without spending £2,000 on a Naomi Universal Cab )

[emphatic]

Thanks for your kind welcome.

The monitor is looking like a bit of a PITA right now.  I've been told it should be a Tri-Sync monitor (it's an LCD panel), but I'm not 100% convinced so I might need to upscale

I do already have the Naomi, (hadn't realised it was particularly slow loading) but that's mostly because I want the real arcade experience (that is the real experience without spending £2,000 on a Naomi Universal Cab )

Wow, £2,000 you say? In Sweden they go for around £400 or so...  I do not wish you to stop your build, but you should ask Andy at SEGAShed for a quote: http://triplemoonstar.brinkster.net/segashed/default.asp?subcat=95

[elaverick]

My estimate was based mostly on what I've seen on eBay (which as we know has very little basis in reality at times).  I probably should have looked into SegaShed (I've been asking him about a few other bits and pieces and he's been great so far), but at least this way I get something tailored to what I want and can say I genuinely had a hand in making the thing.

[Epyx]

I've gone for all white Sanwa controls and I'm aiming for a piano black finish on the exterior (though I suspect I'll come to regret that later in the project).

My first cab I tried the piano black finish and regretted it and went flat/mat black.  It was just too shiny and every fingerprint etc was plain as day. But then again...it's only paint and you can easily sand it if you don't like it!

[elaverick]

I've gone for all white Sanwa controls and I'm aiming for a piano black finish on the exterior (though I suspect I'll come to regret that later in the project).

My first cab I tried the piano black finish and regretted it and went flat/mat black.  It was just too shiny and every fingerprint etc was plain as day. But then again...it's only paint and you can easily sand it if you don't like it!

Yeah I'm a bit worried about the finger print magnet finish, but only really on the CP.  I'm thinking possibly about a perspex guard or something similar but I've not made any firm decisions on that one yet.  As you say I think I'll have to wait and see the finished thing before I can make any real plans

[elaverick]

Bit of progress made today.  Currently lacking precise angles for mounting the monitor and speaker plate so we've fitted the monitor bezel and are working on the relative placements of the speakers and control panel based on where the monitor rests against the back battens.

Also to add a bit of extra hold to the monitor we're using round head allen key bolts to secure the monitor to the bezel, these will be the only mounting elements visable from the outside (I'm screwing everything else inside to out to hide the screw holes).