Coin Door Help?

[wooowman93]

The Cabinet i got had a coin door in it the door was a bit scratched up with the paint being rubbed off near where you insert the coin and there is a blob of paint from bad painting, i wanted to ask should i repaint the whole thing or just the spot without paint?

how should i remove the paint?

What paint should i use?

and whats the voltage on return button lights?

[bradx]

pretty sure the voltage varies depending on the bulb.  take the bulb out and look up the numbers online.  i have mine powered with an old 6V AC adapter i had laying around. 

[endrien]

The Cabinet i got had a coin door in it the door was a bit scratched up with the paint being rubbed off near where you insert the coin and there is a blob of paint from bad painting, i wanted to ask should i repaint the whole thing or just the spot without paint?

how should i remove the paint?

What paint should i use?

and whats the voltage on return button lights?

You should be able to power the lights via usb. I can make a video tutorial for you if you wish.
Voltage depends on bulb.

You can remove the paint by sanding, I've done this on both of my cabs so far and it looks nice. Paint I just used standard rust paint/black paint.

[mvsfan]

thats a waste of a usb port although you could do it if you want to. It could very well mean the difference between adding a hub or not depending on your MOBO I havent heard of any coin door Lights yet that are powered by 6VDC. Their either 5V or 12V.

in both cases, if your bulbs themselves say 6V, a 5V dc source will work fine.

If the bulbs say 14V, a 12V source will also work fine. As long as the source is equal to or a bit less than the bulb rating, you will be fine.

if your power source is much larger than the bulb rating, the bulb will burn out rapidly. if its only slightly larger, you will experience a much reduced lamp life.

[Beretta]

im in the middle of doing a old coin door my self it was CAKED in rust.. so i stripped it to the metal.

i tried a wire wheel in an electric drill but it was super thick, super tough paint from hell (someone had already redid the door before.. not factory job) and was taking a long time.. a wire wheel in my rotary tool did a great job but with such a small wheel it would take for ever, not to mention it eats the wheels up rather quickly.

so i tried a heat gun.. cheap 10 dollar one from HF, actually the heat gun worked ok.. but i wasn't able to get a clean surface i was left with streaks from the putty  knife.

finally i tried paint stripper.. and it did a pretty good number on the door, one problem was though is cleaning it up.. it beat the crap out of the paint but it also made it very messy so it took a lot of paper towels to get it down to the bare metal.

the frame however oddly did not want to strip and i was forced to leave roughly 25% of the paint on there.. i hit it with a wire brush and still nothing.. 4 or 5 coats of paint stripper later i figured if it could survive all that then it would be good enough to paint over.

i used the rotary tool to get rid of any rust..

so far i've got 1 light coat of rustolum (spelling?) clean metal prime, it actually says it works on lightly rusted metal also.. they also sell a heavy rust primer..

reason i used primer was i wanted to try and keep the rust from coming back.. im gonna put a 2nd coat of primer then im gonna hit it with rustolum black hammered paint.. it looks to be a similar finish as what was originally applied.. so mine is still a work in progress hopping to have it done by next weekend it has taken A LOT OF TIME, especially dealing with the rust which was massive.. i wish i had taken before pictures.

the paint stripper route works for a clean finish.. but i warn you get some heavy duty gloves because the stuff i got burned and numbed my hands even though medical examination gloves (my sister use to do home medical assistance)
it works well but it is a dangerous chemical for sure.

EDIT: fix a couple typo's, to much paint stripper i guess

[bkenobi]

Get Rustoleum hammered finish if you want to get that dimpled look back.  If you don't care, a standard spray will work fine.

[spacies]

Get Rustoleum hammered finish if you want to get that dimpled look back.  If you don't care, a standard spray will work fine.

+1 on the hammer finish paint. Its really good for coin doors etc

[bradx]

thats a waste of a usb port although you could do it if you want to. It could very well mean the difference between adding a hub or not depending on your MOBO I havent heard of any coin door Lights yet that are powered by 6VDC. Their either 5V or 12V.

yeah, it was a 5V bulb but i already had the wall wart just sitting there and it was the closest to the voltage i needed.  the first one i tried was 12V, wow did that make those mothers light up bright!!!

[Avinitlarge]

I would sand or bead blast the coin door. It leaves a good surface to repaint. I have access to a blasting cabinet which makes life easier.

[Encryptor]

I took mine to a powder coating place. They blasted it and used a wrinkle finish powder coat on it. I also had them do the coin chutes. The color for the coin chute was called chrome but it looks silver. I think the door looks pretty decent though.

Encryptor

[CheffoJeffo]

Mandatory link to the Restoration page in the BYOAC wiki, which has links to a number of tutorials on restoring coin doors, including one authored by our own SirPeale.

[Rusty Shackelford]

You should be able to power the lights via usb. I can make a video tutorial for you if you wish.
Voltage depends on bulb.

Y

[/quote]


Could you do  a thread on it? Id be quite interested in this there must be a few others aswell.

[CheffoJeffo]

You kids and yer noofangled USB cable hacking ... in my day we lit our coin doors using those clunky old molex connectors coming out of the power supply!

 

[bkenobi]

Yeah, why would you waste your very limited USB bus power when you could simply splice into the PSU?  I just used a Molex splitter and cut the leads off one end.  A couple wire nuts later and I was done.  Ehhh, if you like messing with USB cables, I guess that works too.   

[Beretta]

Encryptor how much did it cost to have it blasted and coated?

and how would you go about finding such a place.. i mean are there businesses out there that do nothing but powder coating?

[javeryh]

Encryptor how much did it cost to have it blasted and coated?

and how would you go about finding such a place.. i mean are there businesses out there that do nothing but powder coating?

I paid a local custom motorcycle shop $75 to sandblast and powder coat my DK coin door.  Money well spent - it looks brand new!   

[Beretta]

WOW, ok i guess thats ok for a restoration but i would'nt want to pay that for a common door.

[javeryh]

WOW, ok i guess thats ok for a restoration but i would'nt want to pay that for a common door.

He pulled the number out of his ass - maybe you will have better luck at a local place?  $50 would probably be a fair price though.  It is expensive.  The coin door easily cost the most for the entire project since I spent another $93 on the mechs!!!   



If I was doing a generic coin door for a MAME cab or a Midway or something I'd probably go with the hammered rustoleum spray paint.  $3 for the can!

[Beretta]

esh, where you getting it for 3 bucks a can? i paid nearly 6 at wally world.

so far this coin door is eating money, 5 bucks for wire wheels, it was pretty rusty.
5 bucks a can of stops rust clean/lightly rusted metal primer.
6 bucks a can of black hammered.
9 bucks a can of paint stripper.
1 dollar a can of gloss black (should have went with flat black)

gloss black was for the inside, which was the worse part.. it looks like someone spilled salt water in the coin mech or something.. so i had to paint the inside hardware.

i cheaped out and got a .96 cent can from wally world figuring no one's gonna see it right?
well it works but it runs really easy and im not good with paint.
it also did'nt leave a gloss like i thought i twould. i should have went with flat black i noticed flat paint does'nt run as easy.

it also seems to take longer to dry, but it's a lesson learned.. i did'nt realize how hammered paint works.. i could have used it for everything because it takes several coats to get the hammered look, im 2 coats into it and i think it's gonna need another 3 probably to get the full look.

i've got 2 more doors i need to do so at least i learned something and the out side of the door should still look good.

i'll post pictures when im done so you all can laugh
figure if not today then should be done tomorrow, can't believe how much time i've spent on it, mostly dealing with rust and i did'nt take a before picture.. wish i had now it was truely aweful.

[Avinitlarge]

I took mine to a powder coating place. They blasted it and used a wrinkle finish powder coat on it. I also had them do the coin chutes. The color for the coin chute was called chrome but it looks silver. I think the door looks pretty decent though.

Encryptor

I do my own blasting to keep the costs down. Im going to get a price on the powder coating on monday. I may even use hammerite like other people have.

[Encryptor]

Encryptor how much did it cost to have it blasted and coated?

and how would you go about finding such a place.. i mean are there businesses out there that do nothing but powder coating?

Actually I took 2 coin doors w/frames in and had them both done that way. For the 2 doors and the 4 coin chutes it was $80. I felt it was worth that to have a nice looking and durable finish on my coin door.

There is a powder coating place I used to see on my way home from work. I just stopped in one day and talked to them and looked at the various colors and finishes they had to offer. I'm sure you could google them for your area.

It is just a powder coating place. They do everything from motorcycle wheel and frame to race car frames and everything in between. The nice thing about the powder coating is you can just about hit it with a hammer and it won't chip. It's very durable.

Encryptor

[Rusty Shackelford]

You kids and yer noofangled USB cable hacking ... in my day we lit our coin doors using those clunky old molex connectors coming out of the power supply!

 

I have this terrible fear that after aquiring a pc for MAME spending some £££ on it hours tinkering and updating id blow it up by doing this so USB sounds a bit of a safer option!

[Dr Zero]

You kids and yer noofangled USB cable hacking ... in my day we lit our coin doors using those clunky old molex connectors coming out of the power supply!

 

I have this terrible fear that after aquiring a pc for MAME spending some £££ on it hours tinkering and updating id blow it up by doing this so USB sounds a bit of a safer option!

Its not that bad and you probably wont be using all the connectors anyway oh and its all color coded!

[CheffoJeffo]

I would think that you have a greater chance of fouling things up hacking a thin little USB cable that was never really designed for that purpose, as opposed to using the existing power connectors that were designed specifically to deliver the required power more than adequately.

 

[bkenobi]

Sorry, but HOW THE HELL would you screw up getting power from the power supply if you can wire the rest of your cab?!   

The connector is a 4 pin molex.  The blacks are ground.  The red is +5v.  The yellow is +12v.  If you need a 12v connection, use the yellow + black.  If you need 5v, use red + black.  If you need 7v, use red + yellow.  The polarity (+/-) is just which side you put the ground on (one way is +5v, the other is -5v).  This is the easiest part of the project IMO.  If you can't do this, you shouldn't be messing inside a cabinet anyway.

OTOH, if you hack a USB you have to worry about stripping the wire without cutting other conductors.  Then you have to figure out which wire is what (5v, ground, Data+, Data-).  If you screw this up, you might actually do some damage to the PC or minimally the USB port.  If you screw up the other hack, you potentially short the PSU BUT you would have to be a retard to do that IMO.

For reference, I've done both hacks.  I find the PSU version MUCH easier and far less prone to problems.  Also, the wires in a USB cable aren't really that good for connecting to since they aren't that big (~24 gage I guess) whereas PSU cables are usually much bigger (~20 gage or so?).

 

[Beretta]

ya i agree tapping USB for power is a last resort.. you can only get 5v out of them and only about 500ma (0.5amps) which is not a lot of power by any stretch of the imagination.

if by some chance you did kill your usb port.. a mother board is usually more then a power supply..

the power supply on the other hand has many more amp's on several different voltages so the likely hood of overloading it with fans and lights are pretty slim.

go with getting your power from your power supply when ever possible.. it's suppose to supply power

only time i'd say tap the usb is say you are using a laptop, in which case it's hard to get power from them.. you could try to put a tap on the power supply but most likely looking at 18-24volt instead of the more useful 3,5,12volt.

[Encryptor]

I just took an old AT power supply and mounted it in my cab for the peripheral stuff. Since it's an AT power supply it has an ON/OFF switch so I can plug it into my power strip and when the power strip gets power it comes on. I don't have to worry about blowing the pc power supply up.

Encryptor

[SirPeale]

I have this terrible fear that after aquiring a pc for MAME spending some £££ on it hours tinkering and updating id blow it up by doing this so USB sounds a bit of a safer option!

Right...because taking +5VDC straight off the system bus to power some lights is far safer than right from the power supply...you know, where the power is actually given to the motherboard?

[Rusty Shackelford]

Thanks for the pic Dr Zero maybe I will go off the power supply after all.

I have no wiring/power experiance as youve probably guessed by now!

[Avinitlarge]

Where does the bulb mount. My coin door doesnt have a bulb but I want to fit one

[SirPeale]

Where does the bulb mount. My coin door doesnt have a bulb but I want to fit one

It depends on the door, they're all different.  Post a pic.

[Avinitlarge]

Here is my coin door

[bkenobi]

Looks like you just stick a bulb in the orange plastic slot below the coin slot.  I don't see any wiring for it though.  There's nothing that says you can't make your own mount which would allow you to install any kind of bulb you want.

[Avinitlarge]

The orange plastic bits are clips that hold the coin mech in.

[SirPeale]

To the left of the coin slot you see that metal tab sticking out?  That's what the bulb socket slides onto.  It's missing.  And luckily replaceable.

[Beretta]

is it just me or does that look like a cash door that someone converted into accepting coins?

or was someone actually making coin doors at the factory that look like that?

[Avinitlarge]

Where would I get the said bulb holder from??


Its a real factory Cash door that uses a real Coin mech. Im still going to use the coin mech. It will help the kids see the real value of money.

[Beretta]

happs sells them but you could probably find one cheaper elsewhere..

if you wanna go a cheap route how about get some LED's and make a bracket out of some scrap sheet metal?

[Avinitlarge]

I will probably end up making one. Dont suppose anyone has a picture of one looks like??