Powering a Passive Sub - Going from a HTIB to a A/V Reciever

[massive88]

So I have this right now - http://www.amazon.com/Philips-HTS3555-Theater-System-Connectivity/dp/tech-data/B000N5ZARK/ref=de_a_smtd

Which is fine really for my needs on this particular TV, however it has an issue with the Coax Optical input where it constantly drops the signal for a few seconds at a time.  It has finally gotten on my last nerve.

So I am planning on getting a low end 5.1 A/V receiver to replace it, but still use the speakers.  My question is, I know that the front back and center speakers will work fine, but with the Subwoofer being passive, is there any way to power it from a receiver?  All receivers dedicated sub port seems to be a pre-out.

Would I need to get a separate amp for the sub?  Or could I feed it off the front speakers through a low pass filter or something like that?

I dont need a ton of volume, as this TV and its setup are for casual gaming or movie watching, I never take the current pioneer above half its max volume, but I would like to have to sub working if/when I make the swap.

Any help or information would be greatly appreciated...

[orion]

If you figure that there is going to be a cost involved in buying an amp to power your sub and the hassle to find one cheap and can power a sub, you might as well invest in a low end powered subwooffer. I have owned in the past a 50 watt subwooffer from KLH, that I was relatively happy with. Those can be found very cheap used. For cheap speakers, KLH in my opinion is decent.

[richms]

The speakers that come with those cheap home theaters are equalized to hell in the main unit before the amp - you will not be able to do that with a real reciever so you end up with something sounding like a cheap pair of computer speakers.


IMO stick with the junky kit till you can replace everything with good stuff, if you put a real amp on those speakers they will dissapoint more then the current setup.

[massive88]

I have a temporary fix which has made my need much less immediate.  I ran Red/White wires as well as the digital Coax for input, so for regular TV watching and games where 3d isnt important, I can listen on the stereo input and it doesnt drop the signal.

Thanks for the responses, I guess Ill save up for now to replace the whole shebang.