Cherry AC Interlock switch removal

[DeLuSioNal29]

Hi all,

I'm working on an arcade restoration and I want to get rid of the Cherry AC Interlock switch that's on the back of the door.  Basically it's there so that the unit will only work with the door attached.  If it's open it will turn off automatically.  I know you can pull it in order to lock it in the "on" position, but I figured I don't really need it there anyway so I might as well get rid of it (it's old too).

My main two questions:

1 - Can I cut the wires without being shocked (assuming the unit is unplugged)
2 - Can I simply match up the colors of the wires and eliminate the AC switch?

Thanks in advance for your help with this.

~ DeLuSioNaL

[bungy]

I would try using a multimeter to check continuity when the switch is pushed in (the "door attached" position).  This would be more safely done with the power off.

Start by touching one probe to the top wire and then touching the other probe to every other wire individually.  When it beeps, those two wires should be connected together.

After checking the first wire, do the same thing for each wire and hopefully you will end up with two pairs of wires that have continuity.  With the power off, connect each pair of wires together.

You can also apply the same technique in voltage mode to see if there is any residual electricity before cutting the wires.

Or you could just secure the button closed with crazy glue

[discgolfer72]

save yourself the trouble (and the ugly elect tape ) and just unscrew thoes 2 screws
and aim the switch away from the back door  then screw it in place  and pull the switch in the always on postion

this will also allow you to service the machine if ever needed  without unplugung the machine and reduce  risk of  shock  when diggin around inside the cab later on

[DeLuSioNal29]

Thanks for the great ideas.

Bungy:  I should have used the continuity tester from the start (duh).  Good suggestion!  I tested it and the colors of the wires do indeed match up.  So I plan to splice out it later tonight.

Discgolfer72:  Another great idea!  I'll have to use that one in future restorations.  However, there are 2 reasons why I won't do this in this particular build.  1) the switch is rather old and i don't really trust that it's doing it's job properly  2) I plan to flip the cabinet and I don't want the new owner to accidentally hit the switch or have it bumped in transport - The last thing I need is an unhappy buyer calling me up saying it won't turn on).

Thanks again for the great tips guys!

DeLuSioNaL