Author Topic: WHAT IS THE SWITCH ON THE MONITOR BOARD DO. MY MONITOR TURNED ON BEFORE (Read 6265 times)

ROBHAD · « **on:** July 21, 2009, 10:09:42 am »

I JUST PICK UP A VIRTUA COP GAME AND HAD TO TAKE IT APART TO GET IT IN MY HOUSE.. I SAW THE GAME WORKING . WHEN I RECONNECTED EVERYTHING I WAS CONNECTING THE MONITOR. AND ON THE BOARD THERE IS A SWITCH ( LOOKS LIKE AND ON AND OFF ) IN THE REAR SIDE OF THE BOARD ANYWAYS I HIT IT BY MISTAKE AND THE MONITOR TURNED OFF. NOW IT WONT TURN BACK ON.. WHAT DID I DO .AND IS THERE AN EASY FIX TO GET MY MONITOR BACK ON.. I TESTED THER MONITOR AND THERE IS POWER BUT NO PICTURE.
THE MONITOR IS A HITACHI MODEL # 40900272

Ken Layton · « **Reply #1 on:** July 21, 2009, 10:29:17 am »

In order to help, you need to follow this very important rule first:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62016.0

And please don't shout at us. Thank you.

ROBHAD · « **Reply #2 on:** July 21, 2009, 10:47:00 am »

SORRY I ADDED THAT TO MY POSTING..

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #3 on:** July 21, 2009, 11:38:19 am »

Quote from: ROBHAD on July 21, 2009, 10:47:00 am

SORRY I ADDED THAT TO MY POSTING..

Turn off your caps lock already...

ROBHAD · « **Reply #4 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:02:23 pm »

not sure what you mean by turn off caps lock? what is that switch for ? whats it called?
thanks

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #5 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:27:27 pm »

Quote from: ROBHAD on July 21, 2009, 12:02:23 pm

not sure what you mean by turn off CAPS LOCK?

Quote from: ROBHAD on July 21, 2009, 12:02:23 pm

what is that switch for ? whats it called?

That "switch" looks more like an adjustment coil. Possibly horizontal width.
If you knocked into it then you need to make sure you didn't break part of it loose from the main chassis.

Ah..... I think I see what you are referring to now.
Most likely a service switch of sorts.

ROBHAD · « **Reply #6 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:29:36 pm »

THIS SWITCH IAM SPEAKING OFF LOOKS LIKE AN ON AND OFF SWITCH. NOT THE COIL

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #7 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:32:48 pm »

Quote from: ROBHAD on July 21, 2009, 12:29:36 pm

THIS SWITCH IAM SPEAKING OFF LOOKS LIKE AN ON AND OFF SWITCH. NOT THE COIL

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #8 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:33:19 pm »

Quote from: Kevin Mullins on July 21, 2009, 12:32:48 pm

Quote from: ROBHAD on July 21, 2009, 12:29:36 pm
THIS SWITCH IAM SPEAKING OFF LOOKS LIKE AN ON AND OFF SWITCH. NOT THE COIL

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #9 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:44:54 pm »

Quote from: ROBHAD on July 21, 2009, 10:09:42 am

THE MONITOR IS A HITACHI MODEL # 40900272

I'm not coming up with any information on that model #.
Are there any other identifying marks on the main chassis? (not the tube)

ROBHAD · « **Reply #10 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:48:38 pm »

YEA KEVIN THAT SWITCH IS WHAT IAM REFERING TO .

ROBHAD · « **Reply #11 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:49:53 pm »

THE NUMBERS ON THE MONITOR ARE g4j001807 AND 40900272

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #12 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:58:11 pm »

ROBHAD · « **Reply #13 on:** July 21, 2009, 01:02:07 pm »

DONT NEED TO TURN OFF CAPS ITS NOT A PC.. ITS AN ARCADE GAME..

ROBHAD · « **Reply #14 on:** July 21, 2009, 01:18:07 pm »

GMK 20P IS ALSO ON THE MONITOR

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #15 on:** July 21, 2009, 01:41:00 pm »

Quote from: ROBHAD on July 21, 2009, 01:02:07 pm

DONT NEED TO TURN OFF CAPS ITS NOT A PC.. ITS AN ARCADE GAME..

Turn off your caps HERE. No one wants to read your messages in ALL CAPS.

Beretta · « **Reply #16 on:** July 21, 2009, 02:21:21 pm »

rofl this thread is to funny

is it possible it was a 120/240 switch? if so and it was powered on that would explain why it wont come back on, it's fried.

but thats a wild guess based on no monitor experience i just know on power supplies for example it's a big no no.

Nipedley · « **Reply #17 on:** July 21, 2009, 03:12:59 pm »

There's no way you want your hand that close in to the monitor when being incompetent enough to 'knock things', while it is powered. You realise the voltages in there could potentially kill you even if its off, and if its on then you're just asking for trouble?

And as above, please stop writing in all capitals. Thank you.

Now for your problem, it's difficult to say without a chassis model number (should be somewhere on the chassis). A close up picture of the switch would help too (in focus so we can see whats going on around it).

ROBHAD · « **Reply #18 on:** July 21, 2009, 03:16:54 pm »

when i hit the switch there was no indication that i did something wrong meaning no smoke, snap, ect it just turned off the monitor. and i push in back and no picture

ROBHAD · « **Reply #19 on:** July 21, 2009, 03:43:22 pm »

i just added another pic that best i can do.. the witch is right under the first white video contol knob to the left or the coiled contol.
tring to figure out what that switch is and what it does to see if i can do somthing to get the picture back

ROBHAD · « **Reply #20 on:** July 21, 2009, 03:47:58 pm »

if it is a voltage swith how would i reset it to get the monitor back on .

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #21 on:** July 21, 2009, 03:56:13 pm »

Looks like your model # may be a Hitachi GMK-20P assuming it's a 20".
Not finding much information at all about it specifically at all.

Blow the dust of that chassis and see if there is any kind of writing near the switch.
I highly doubt it's a 120/240 switch just based on the location on the chassis.

Have you tried putting the switch back to it's original location and then completely disconnecting power from the monitor for a little while?
(I've seen power supplies do weird stuff like that)

What numbers are on the metal heatsink in this pic?

ROBHAD · « **Reply #22 on:** July 21, 2009, 04:01:22 pm »

its is the gmk 20p so inch.. i pull the monitor out of the game hoping it would clear it out.. checked the fuse. the fuse was fine.. i did put the switch back right after i hit it.. and it didnt go back.. ill check the heatsink to see if there is a number on it..

Nipedley · « **Reply #23 on:** July 21, 2009, 04:16:16 pm »

My monitor only has one switch and that's to switch between positive and negative sync. When I fed it the wrong signal, it had a hissy fit for about 40 minutes and wouldn't turn on at all. Over the years I managed to do this a few times, simply walked away from it for a while and came back and it was happy again.

Are you certain the switch was all you knocked, maybe something else came loose. You need to be careful since a lot of those components could be charged and ready to shock you. When you turn it on, does it make any noise? (The regular high voltage/switching on noise)

ROBHAD · « **Reply #24 on:** July 21, 2009, 04:37:00 pm »

nothing on the heatsink but there was a number next to the switch.s207 dont know if that helps

ROBHAD · « **Reply #25 on:** July 21, 2009, 04:39:46 pm »

no i didnt hit anything else.. i havnt tried putting it back in the game yet.. was so frustrated that it didnt turn back on. after spending 6 hours to take it apart and put it back together becasue it wouldnt fit through the door.
before when it was on all i got was a clear screen and now nothing

ROBHAD · « **Reply #26 on:** July 21, 2009, 04:47:45 pm »

there is no noise..normaly you would hear somthing.. i get nothing.

ROBHAD · « **Reply #27 on:** July 21, 2009, 04:58:16 pm »

dah.. i looked at the wrong heat sink.. the number is MA00311

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #28 on:** July 21, 2009, 05:56:55 pm »

Quote from: ROBHAD on July 21, 2009, 04:37:00 pm

nothing on the heatsink

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #29 on:** July 21, 2009, 05:58:40 pm »

Quote from: ROBHAD on July 21, 2009, 04:58:16 pm

dah.. i looked at the wrong heat sink.. the number is MA00311

Ah.... ok then....

Just figured we'd see if that brought up any further information. (every little bit helps)

The s207 seems to be just a board location number..... doesn't help.

Nipedley · « **Reply #30 on:** July 21, 2009, 06:39:08 pm »

If the tube isn't receiving any High Voltage (which you would hear) then that narrows it down a fair bit. First I would make sure that all of your connections are good, all your power switches are on, when rebuilding a cabinet like that it's easy to forget something. Check the monitor's power wires and make sure nothings come loose from the transformer or anything like that as well.

Once you are sure the chassis is receiving power we can go from there.

ADD: Maybe I'm just being pedantic, but have you checked other fuses? Check through the wiring and see if there are any other fuses inline, including power supplies and including your plug.

ROBHAD · « **Reply #31 on:** July 21, 2009, 06:46:39 pm »

i just went to hook it up again and still nothing.. there is fuses but they all look good. not burt or anything. iam lost because this thing was good before i hit that button. i was looking on it to see if there was some sort of reset to get it back but didnt see anything. this is just not making sence.

SirPeale · « **Reply #32 on:** July 21, 2009, 07:53:35 pm »

You need to check the fuses with a multimeter. Fuses can visually look okay, but be blown.

ROBHAD · « **Reply #33 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:02:29 pm »

iv checked all wires again. all fuses.. everything seems to be getting juice.. no dise on the monitor yet.. is there a reset somewhere

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #34 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:05:13 pm »

Just for kicks..... try switching that switch back and forth a few times with power off.
Then put it back where it was before and turn it on.

ROBHAD · « **Reply #35 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:28:10 pm »

ok ill go give it a whirl

Nipedley · « **Reply #36 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:32:04 pm »

When you say you checked the fuses, how are you checking them?

As Peale said, you need to check them with a multimeter. Put it onto continuity test (or resistance test if thats all you have) and make sure they aren't blown. For the record a blown fuse will give infinity resistance (will show as 1.) or no continuity. Visual check doesnt guarantee anything.

If you didnt check them properly I'm willing to bet the cause of your problem could be there.

ADD: No "reset" unfortunately. Since we don't know what that switch does we can't say for sure, but you've probably either blown a fuse or fried a circuit. Fingers crossed for the fuses.

ROBHAD · « **Reply #37 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:33:59 pm »

i just tried that.. nothing,,
i did check with my voltage tester and i got juice

Nipedley · « **Reply #38 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:49:43 pm »

Which wires did you test for voltage? It's possible that power is getting TO the board, but there could be fuses on the board itself meaning the monitor won't power on if they are blown. Or were you testing for voltage past the fuses? Might be worth going and getting some spares and replacing them anyway, just incase.

If it's not the fuses, all the connections are good and nothing is loose and it still won't power on then so far as I can tell that's the easy options out of the window.

ROBHAD · « **Reply #39 on:** July 21, 2009, 09:21:26 pm »

ill go get some new fuses tommorow and replace them all just to be 100 percent and rule it out.. i tested the wires .


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