Ok from my experiance, i would say T-molding is on the wood and lexan is by itself. But do make sure you break the edges some how. at first mine was not broken and i kid you not we were playing some active Golden Tee (the only way to use those controls) and no BS here, the guy i was playing with hit the panel wrong and sliced open the palm of his hand! It wasn't like blood was gushing everywhere and mass panic occured, but it still sucked. I would at very minimium use a 13 degree beveling router bit if not a Chamfer (45 degree). Roundover bit is going to be silly cause the radius is so small due to the thickness of lexan (generally 1/8"). When you are done cutting the lexan you can use some fine steel wool and smooth/soften those edges, but don't go sloppy here, if the Steel wool is too coarse it will leave marks in the face...