Applying Wilsonart laminate

[kspiff]

I should be able to afford () to pick up some laminate this weekend for one of my 2 ongoing restoration projects.. but before I even get it, I was hoping to get some tips on application.. for instance: what is the best adhesive, how to best hide the edges, surface prep tips, etc.. primarily curious about how to hide the edges properly (paint, iron-on edge.. stuff..? :/)..

Plans were to: sand surfaces from 60 down to 220 (applying some wood hardener somewhere in between gradients), tac clean, lay down the adhesive layer (to both surfaces -- laminate and cabinet?), apply laminate (weighted down with books), trim, route flush.. then still not sure about the edges

[shmokes]

I believe you are now at the T-molding stage.




edit:  if you're using a flush trim bit this shouldn't matter too much since the router will sit on the inside instead of on the laminate, but remember to cover any surface that the router base plate will slide over *and* will be visible after construction with masking tape.  The baseplate will leave unsightly scuffs on laminate or paint.  Cover the surface with tape, route, remove tape and your surfaces will look great.

[AGarv]

Do not I repeat do not use latex based contact cement.  Get the good old solvent based contact cement, it works much, much better.  220 is prolly overkill on the sanding.

[AlanS17]

When you apply the laminate be sure to go over it with a rolling pin or something the make sure the glue is even and there are no loose pockets in the middle. You won't see air bubbles through it (obviously) but they can still form on a very small scale and get loose as time goes by.

[kspiff]

OK, cool.  Good advice.  Still wondering, though, if the molding completely masks the edges.. does the actual laminate have the fibrous backing, or are only the samples like that (dumb question, probably )..?

...

Too bad I probably won't use it now until after the next SuperAuction (d'oh!).. never enough $$$.. hope I can get a Gauntlet I/II or Super Sprint this time

[Unkis17]

As far as edging goes (and i don't know what type of tools you have).  The way to get a Pro look, you do the edges first, route them flush with the base of the router on the raw faces, this way when you glue and route the faces you don't don't see the edge laminate!  Much nicer cause sometimes you get like a yellow line in their from the contact cement.  Make sure you use real contact cement too & outside!  This stuff should burn if you take a big wiff.  It's ~$8 for a quart.  Eirther roll or brush it on evenly, I use a comb type tool when i am done spreading to put lines in it to even glue as well (they are sold right next to the glue lots of times).  Apply glue to both lam & MDF and make sure that it is dry to the touch (IE doen't leave your fingprint).  Flex the laminate so only the middle touches first then roll it out to the edges.  Use a J-Roller (or a rolling pin, J-roller is better since it is a rubber composite it will compress material ~$10) to get all glue even and bubbles out.  Roll from the middle out on both sides.
BTW, you can cut strips of the laminate on a table saw!  Just make sure the blade is just a bit higher than the laminate.  The gullets of the blade will tear the laminate!  I would put the laminate on a plywood board then rip it, otherwise the laminate can slip under the rip fence and you will mess your work up.
For taping, I only need to tape sections where the wood is curved or whatever.  Keep in mind the router is going to TRACE that wood, so it will amplify any divits or whatever in the wood (also why edges first, lam should leave a real flat surface to work with).  If you keep your base of your router clean and smooth, even a bit a wax on it you don't have to worry about any type of scratches from the base on the face of the lam.
If you are going to put T-Molding on it buy your T-molding 1/16" thicker to accomodate for the lam.  Lam should be 1/32 and if you do cabinets (as i have done) you are supposed to do both sides for moisture protection and then the molding comes out perfect, otherwise you will have a small lip, just cut the T-Molding Kerf a bit low to make  the top flush and let the bottom hang out.
If this doesn't cover all your lam Q's let me know and i will give you more info.   I've done plenty of Lam to know...

[u_rebelscum]

As far as edging goes (and i don't know what type of tools you have).  The way to get a Pro look, you do the edges first, route them flush with the base of the router on the raw faces, this way when you glue and route the faces you don't don't see the edge laminate!...[snip]

When you say "do the edges first", are you saying route the base, then route the lam, then glue the lam to the base?  Or something else?  I'm not quite following you, sorry.

[kspiff]

I was kind of confused, too.. my whole question was about whether you need anything to trim/line the edges of the laminated area.. I think that I was wrong about that, but had recalled something 1UP mentioned about iron-on melamine..?

[Unkis17]

U_rebel, By do the edges i mean.  Glue the edges with laminate and route flush before you glue the faces with lam and route flush.  Although if you are using T-Molding, then no need to glue the edges with lam if you are just going to cover it up.  This process that i explained is more for doing cabinet work then just CPs specifically.  As well as nothing to do with shaping your wood.  You should always shape it to the final dimenisions before you lam.

kspiff, Iron-on Melamine is out their, but i usually only see it in white, just like the sheets you can buy.  The downside to the premade melamine is that it isn't ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- compaired to Lam.  Lam is made High Pressure and can take a lot more abuse then Melamine.  This stuff scratches real EZ and isn't really waterproof.  The up side is that it is already done for you.  Also the Iron-on is known to come off pretty EZ, all you have to do is catch an edge of that stuff and it starts pealing back...

Was that clear?  I know I don't type it the way i think it, plus i know what i am talking about and not everyone else does, i should proof read my work more, sorry.

[u_rebelscum]

U_rebel, By do the edges i mean.  Glue the edges with laminate and route flush before you glue the faces with lam and route flush.  Although if you are using T-Molding, then no need to glue the edges with lam if you are just going to cover it up.  This process that i explained is more for doing cabinet work then just CPs specifically.  As well as nothing to do with shaping your wood.  You should always shape it to the final dimenisions before you lam.

kspiff, Iron-on Melamine is out their, but i usually only see it in white, just like the sheets you can buy.  The downside to the premade melamine is that it isn't  compaired to Lam.  Lam is made High Pressure and can take a lot more abuse then Melamine.  This stuff scratches real EZ and isn't really waterproof.  The up side is that it is already done for you.  Also the Iron-on is known to come off pretty EZ, all you have to do is catch an edge of that stuff and it starts pealing back...

Was that clear?  I know I don't type it the way i think it, plus i know what i am talking about and not everyone else does, i should proof read my work more, sorry.

Ah, I see.  That makes perfect sense.  

I think I'll still go with T-molding for the most part, but I like the idea of lam'ing the edges for parts that won't or can't get T-molding.  I was thinking of using Iron-on Melamine for the those edges before, but you make using lam on the edges instead so easy.  (Of course, you're experienced with it and I'm not, but so what? )

Any advise on trimming flush on edges that are not square with the face?  (I guess trimming flush lam on either the edge or on the face will have problems.)  I am thinking where the back and the slanted top meet, so it's not too important, but there might be other spots.

[kspiff]

OK.. that clears it all up.  I'm redoing a System 1 cab -- which has t-molding all the way around -- and a Jack the Giant Killer cocktail, -- which I'll probably extend the molding on to go all the way around -- so it looks like I only have to lay down the trimmed lam on the faces and route flush.

Now if it weren't for a pending brake job, I could get the lam.. always something

[shmokes]

There are little routers made specifically for trimming laminate that can bevel the same way a circular saw does for that purpose u_rebel.  They small enough that you just grip the motor kind of like a dremel tool; in fact, they look a lot like a fat dremel tool with a base plate.  I'll bet you could rent one cheap.

[u_rebelscum]

There are little routers made specifically for trimming laminate that can bevel the same way a circular saw does for that purpose u_rebel....

Ah, I thought those machines were just cheap, mini routers.  So they actually can do something that most (any?) routers can't.  Good to know, thanks!

Probably won't (and shouldn't) get one anyway, unless I see one really cheap at harbor freight.