Dim GI lights on STTNG (think it might be Xformer) - help please

[Charles4400]

Now that I have my STTNG directly next to my taf it seems that the GI lights on it are dimmer in comparison. Also when the flippers or coils of the cannons fire it seems like the backbox lights slighly dim for an instant.

Everything else in the game seems normal, normal power for coils etc...

I finally got a DMM and checked the readings of the yellow wires coming out of the transformer and this is what I get:

(pins are in H configuration. * = pin)

STTNG:
                           * 3.4v                           * 1.6v

                           * 3.4v           * 1.6v         *1.6v

                           * 3.4v                            *1.6v

by comparison here is the same thing done to my TAF:

                           * 6.1v                           * 1.7v

                           * 6.1v           * 1.7v         *1.7v

                           * 6.1v                            *1.7v

The left side of the 'H' on the STTNG is almost half as much as the TAF. Has to be the reason the GI seems dim right? But what do I do? Is this a problem with the transformer?

First off I think this is a re-import game. The filter line does not have an outlet plug. Here is a pic of the line filter:

(the external fuse thing was put in by a pinball tech because the original fuse holder was not staying in...

Here is a pic of the Xformer:


I don't know anything about these components but the highest value listed on the tranformer cover is 115v and the sticker on the back of the pin says 120v... does that mean anything?

Any suggestions?
I was told that STTNG was a dimmer game and someoen told me that the slight flicker during flippers and dimmnes of the game is normal...but are these readings normal for the game?

Thanks!

[Charles4400]

I unplugged and plugged the connector from line filter to xformer a bunch of times.

Checked the yellow wires from xformer again and the readings are still the same....

[Charles4400]

I measured from the wall socket and it looks good. I get 122.7-122.9 v.

I measured from the line filter (connecting to transformer) and got 122.9 from the white wire of the line filter...

All my measurements are from the dmm are with the black probe on the siderail and red going to the wire/socket I'm testing (other than wall outlet test of course). I think this is right but thought I might throw that out there since its my first time with a DMM.

[Charles4400]

That's how you measure it? I would have never though to do that!
I get the same reading 7.9:



I don;t know how you measured with the harness conneced though...did you measure at the pin on the power driver board to get the 7.7?

So by getting 7.9v does that mean that it is not a problem with the transformer?

...btw thanks for taking the time and effort to troubleshoot this with me 

[Charles4400]

Thanks for all the help PBJ! I really do appreciate it plus not knowing exactly what I'm doing with the dmm is a bit frustrating but your helping me learn (which is very valuable!).

I've replaced the idc pins with crimp on connectors already for the GI sockets on the power driver board...just waiting for parts to replace the header pins on the board (I have been dreading doing work on the power driver board but I guess this is time! <just like I was putting off getting a dmm too  )

When I start work on it I'll update with what I find and the results...

Thanks again for the help 

"To Be Continued"...

[pinballwizard79]

Damn PBJ, this is some good stuff.....& thats not the Spaaten talking.

Edit: yes it was

[SirPeale]

I thought these voltages came off the main board.  Gi lighting, right?  On a newer Star Trek: The Next Generation pin?

I was thinking "toasted connectors".

edit: like the yellow connectors on the main board in this picture:
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2357&picno=13796

[Charles4400]

I think the GI power comes from yellow wires of the transformer to the main board (controlled by cpu) then to GI lamps (triacs play a part here somewhere too).

I'll be replacing pretty much all the .156 header pins along the bottom of the board and replaciing the iDC connectors with molex crimp ones while I have the board out.

will update with what I find as far as bad connections or burns.....

[Charles4400]

Ya I've come to believe its completely possible that the "dimness" may be just the way the game looks. Some people have emailed me saying so as well....but gotta try (and gotta tinker...always tinkering)...

Did notice some previous burns and deplated through holes and some previous fixes of broken traces...on the back of the board when I removed some header pins....sounds bad but the fixes with some stitches and a jumper don't seem too difficult. (I may have caused some of the deplated through holes from removing the header pins as everything was functioning correctly before).

Anyways, hopefully replacing these connectors will help, but if not I accept it....