Power Consumption

[FrizzleFried]

The two numbers for each cab represent the MAXIMUM amperage measusured... first in "attract" mode, then in "play" mode. I monitored a KILL-A-WATT device for a full minute during attract mode and wrote down the MAXIMUM amperage measurement displayed. In most cases, this MAXIMUM only hit once or twice with the average amperage draw a couple tenths of an amp lower. In "play mode" I monitored a KILL-A-WATT device while I "played" the game (albeit badly). In some games this made no difference in amperage...in some the game actually ran a tenth or so of an amp LESS while playing...and in some the max amperage jumped considerably. On any measurement where the maximum "play" reading was less than the "attract" reading, I matched the "attract" score for the "play" score.

(1) 27" JVC TELEVISION - 1.11a (there is no "play" score)

(2) DOUBLE DONKEY KONG+ (standard Nintendo cabinet w/stock Sanyo 20ez monitor running an Arcadeshop Multigame board & a Home Depot under the counter marquee light)

ATTRACT: .86a
PLAY: .86a

The most "solid" reading... virtually zero fluctuation once the cab is powered up.

(3) WILLIAMS MULTIGAME (Stargate cabinet running JROK's Multi-Williams board and a new VisionPro monitor. Marquee is stock)

ATTRACT: .96a
PLAY: .98a

As most standard 19" raster cabs, this one comes in just at about 1 amp.

(4) MULTIPEDE (Atari Centipede cabinet running stock Electrohome G07 monitor, stock marquee display and an Arcadeshop multigame board)

ATTRACT: 1.00a
PLAY: 1.00a

Again...an Arcadeshop board with virtually zero fluctuation in reading. The difference between the Nintendo cab and the Atari cab? I suspect it's the monitor. The Sanyo runs at 100v...

(5) TERMINATOR 2: JUDGMENT DAY

ATTRACT: 1.39a
PLAY: 1.88a

During play mode I coined up BOTH guns, fired BOTH guns at a rapid rate and took my measurements when getting hit, which causes lights to flash behind a semi-reflective mirror giving a "hit" effect. The increase of almost a half amp is the result.

(6) ASTEROIDS

ATTRACT: 1.46a
PLAY: 1.50a

About what I expected... 19" B&W vectors use roughly 50% more power than 19" rasters.

(7) RACE DRIVIN'

ATTRACT: 1.60a
PLAY: 1.99a

There was plenty of fluctuation in my tests depending on how hard you pull against the force feedback. 1.99a was the maximum I could pull going against the motor... I wouldn't be surprised if the number eventually and at times could drop in to the 2a range.

(8 ) HORIZONTAL MAME (25" monitor, Core2Duo, 120GB HD)

ATTRACT: 1.72a
PLAY: 1.72a

This is an example of a test where I measured less during play than attract. Keep in mind though that it's hard to measure a computer as different components run at different times...etc. There is plenty of fluctuation. I'd say that this machine ran 1.5a-1.65a on average.

(9) VERTICADE (Vertical MAME running AMD XP1800+, 80GB HD, ArcadeVGA card)

ATTRACT 2.20a
PLAY: 2.64a

Again, a PC is hard to really measure. I was surprised at how much more power this cab consumes next to the horizontal MAME which has a much faster CPU and a bigger monitor. Very strange. I did DOUBLE CHECK both cabs and they measured the same.

(10) STAR WARS (Cockpit model with 25" Amplifone monitor)

ATTRACT: 2.42a
PLAY: 2.69a

This is another game that if i was able to focus on playing and have someone else monitor the KILL-A-WATT, I am sure the play amperage would increase depending on whats on screen. That just seems to be how it works with vectors. The Deathstar explosion, for example, should push it more (perhaps I should try that out).

(11) TEMPEST (19" WG6100)

ATTRACT: 2.57a
PLAY: 2.57a

Another game where the game play fell below the attract. The point on the attract where the TEMPEST logo is created and all the colors merge in to one creating that "flash"...that is where the amperage jumps to 2.57a each and every time. During early gameplay the game runs around 2.45-2.5amp.

(12) PC CAB (MAME/JUKED cocktail cabinet running an AMD 3200+, 250GB HD)

ATTRACT MAME: 2.59a
PLAY MAME: 2.59a
ATTRACT JUKE: 2.16a
PLAY JUKE: 2.19a

Because my music AMP is attached to the same circuit, as the volume is increased, so is the amperage, slightly.

(13) PAPERBOY

ATTRACT: 2.64a
PLAY: 2.64a

THIS is the surprise of the bunch! Paperboy...a 19" raster game is the most power hungry cab I own. More power hungry than a 25" Star Wars cockpit... more power hungry than Tempest, a color vector... more power hungry than Race Drivin' a 25" racer with a force feedback motor attached... more power hungry than Terminator 2 with it's two guns... incredible. YES, I do know Paperboy runs a Medium Resolution monitor, and I do know the medium res monitors run hot, but HOLY CRAP. Think about it... Paperboy is pretty much on par with the multigame rasters... which run about 1 amp...vs Paperboy at 2.64 amps! WHOA. Now I know why all medium res chassis seem burned up... and why the damn machine runs so hot...and why there's a loud ass fan running in the unit.

Now, i also measured my NON-VID machines...

(1) ARACHNID SUPER SIX DARTS

ATTRACT: 1.25a
PLAY: 1.56a

The lights get brighter during play mode...also sounds are played etc.

(2) STERN LIGHTING PINBALL

ATTRACT: 1.49a
PLAY: 2.85a

The play reading was obtained by trying to hit the flipper as much as possible while the ball was hitting various things on the playfield. It's an extreme number. Actual play also fluctuated a lot, but ran an average of 1.6 to 2.1 amps or so.

(3) DATA EAST SECRET SERVICE PINBALL

ATTRACT: 2.44a
PLAY: 4.17a

Again, the 4.17a result was obtained "TRYING" to max out the power...flipping the flippers as fast as I can etc. The game ran around 3.0a to 3.3a when playing on average.

So to conclude, it was eye opening to see that Paperboy was the vid power monster. I also determined that with everything running on the 20a circuit I have running in the game room, I am pulling 17.09 amps... which is still within the limits, but above the "continuous use" recommendation of 80% of the power circuit or 16amps. Having this info I know I need to reduce my consumption by 1.09 amps and that can be done by swapping Asteroids for the Paperboy (Asteroids is on a different circuit).

[ChadTower]

That's fantastic power info... thanks for sharing that.

I would be very, very interested in comparing that with startup draws.  If you're sitting at 17A running it's entirely possible that would flip the breaker if you started them all up at once or even most of them.

[Neverending Project]

This is great info, thanks.

I would be very, very interested in comparing that with startup draws.  If you're sitting at 17A running it's entirely possible that would flip the breaker if you started them all up at once or even most of them.

I was at a guys house the other day picking up a cabinet and he had about 8 games in his garage arcade all plugged into a remote-activated switch. He switched them all on simultaneously with no issues what-so-ever. I was a little surprised and asked him if he ever ran into problems with the circuit breaker blowing and he said he has never had any issues.

[FrizzleFried]

I have a setting to do KW/h (kilowatt hour) which would give an average draw for each game over an hour.... I may add to the list.

Also,  I never power up at one time...always individually.  I also plan on taking the Paperboy off the main circuit and replacing it with Asteroids which will drop me below 16 amps.   I was VERY surprised about Paperboy.  I will be swapping over to Championship Sprint sometime soon... when that happens I will re-test but I assume it will remain the same draw.

I was also surprised by T2...i'd assumed with both guns blazing and the "hit" lights flashing we'd see at least 2.0a...

[Neverending Project]

I would expect anything with a motor (kickback or rumbling in the guns?) would have a larger draw. Do the T2 guns have a motors?

I would love to see the KW/h. At least 15 minute sample that we could estimate power bills from.

[FrizzleFried]

I would expect anything with a motor (kickback or rumbling in the guns?) would have a larger draw. Do the T2 guns have a motors?

I would love to see the KW/h. At least 15 minute sample that we could estimate power bills from.

The T2 guns have solenoids... similar to a pin's "knocker" solenoid.

[ChadTower]

...which is, of course, the heart of a small DC motor, making them pretty much the same for this purpose.