Has anybody tried this idea for mounting a joystick?

[AlanS17]

I was thinking of routing out an edge on the top of the CP and then cutting a hole through the middle of it to make the joystick flush with the CP similar to flush-mounting a trackball. I was then gonna fasten it with flat wood screws and cover it with art and lexan. Anybody done this before? (By the way, I use 3/4" MDF, not 5/8".)

[BillyJack]

If I read your post correctly, I did something similar to this...  I bought Oscar's joystick mounting plates and cut holes in the CP board that the joystick base would fit through, then routed about 1/16 out of the top of the CP board (in the shape of the mounting plates) so the mounting plates would fit flush.  I bolted it to the CP board, bolted the joysticks to the plates and then put laminate on the top (had to grind off the joystick restrictor bolts).  Turned out really well, and the sticks have taken lots of abuse with no adverse effects from drunk friends during a SF2 tournament.

BillyJack

[grafixmonkey]

hey yeah, that's what I was gonna do.  Didn't want to lose 3/4" of my joystick handle.  I'm just gonna do it without mounting plates, either put a piece of stiff paper or thin cardboard there or let the artwork just hold its own (it's just gonna be stuff I print on my printer anyway).  And holding up to drunk friends in SF2 competitions is exactly what my cab should be doing most of its lifetime.  

Does this work without mounting plates?  i.e. pretend the little flat edge that sticks out from the joystick base is the mounting plate, and cut a hole 2.5"x2.5" for the smaller square part to fit through?  maybe have to unscrew some of the cherry switches to fit it through, then reattach them when it's in the hole?

[locash]

Does this work without mounting plates?  i.e. pretend the little flat edge that sticks out from the joystick base is the mounting plate, and cut a hole 2.5"x2.5" for the smaller square part to fit through?  maybe have to unscrew some of the cherry switches to fit it through, then reattach them when it's in the hole?

I can't think of a reason why this wouldn't work.  I was planning on doing the same myself.  The only thing holding me up is I was also planning on using plastic laminate, and I am not sure that I should adhere the laminate to the joystick plate.

[rampy]

I think it would be fine... you're still going to use some sort of screw though right?

I think the reason that this is the road less traveled, is that it requires a more skilled/precise cut... where as underneat mounting  just requires 1 1/8" spade/hole saw bit and 3/16" drill bit...

*shrug*

rampy

[TazMan]

Does this work without mounting plates?  i.e. pretend the little flat edge that sticks out from the joystick base is the mounting plate, and cut a hole 2.5"x2.5" for the smaller square part to fit through?  maybe have to unscrew some of the cherry switches to fit it through, then reattach them when it's in the hole?

Do you mean something like this?

If so, it worked for me.

[rampy]

Well of course mr fancy pants rotating panel got it routered correctly!  =P  I had to recess mine using an old ice pick and the sole of my shoe!

rampy

[locash]

Tazman, How did you finish off those panels?  Is that a paper overlay with lexan on top? Any recommendations?

[TazMan]

Tazman, How did you finish off those panels?  Is that a paper overlay with lexan on top? Any recommendations?

Mine is printed on paper - photo glossy blah blah from a wide format encad and yes, a lexan top.
I have been looking for adhesive backed lexan that is used on hard top mousepads, but so far have came up empty - I think that might be a better solution - easier to cut for certain  - as rampy would ay..... *shrug*

[TheManuel]

I was planning the same thing for my Galaga/Ms. Pacman joystick since it has a very short shaft.  However, I'm using 1/2" MDF and I already have 3/32" steel plate out of a hard drive that I can use for mounting.   So rather than risking a having a flimsy wooden base to support the stick, I'm just gonna give away those 3/32" (but I'm still debating).

Now, if you have 3/4" MDF and don't want to spend on actual mounting plates, go for it.  I'm sure It'll work.

[AlanS17]

Seems yall all have exactly the same idea I was talking about. Then it's settled. I'll test it out with a broken stick and a piece of scrap wood. Gonna fix it up, take it outside, and slam on it with a 2X4 to see if it falls through.  

(j/k about that 2X4. The shafts are still good and I don't wanna screw them up ust yet.)

[bigmoe]

Incidently, Taz, did you router the areas for the joysticks first and then cut the holes, or cut the holes first and route around the edges?

Looks great though.  Kind of inspiring, actually .

(And is that actually plywood, rather than mdf?)

bm

[TazMan]

Incidently, Taz, did you router the areas for the joysticks first and then cut the holes, or cut the holes first and route around the edges?

Looks great though.  Kind of inspiring, actually .

(And is that actually plywood, rather than mdf?)

bm

Thanks.

Yes it is Plywood (5/8") and I routed the whole area and then jigged out the hole or I may have switched router bits and just routed out the hole - actually I think I did it both ways - both worked fine

[planetjay]

planetjay was here. Can you tell?

[SirPoonga]

planetjay was here. Can you tell?

Nope

[TazMan]

planetjay was here. Can you tell?

Thanks PJ!

What causes that to occur anyways?

[rampy]

planetjay was here. Can you tell?

Thanks PJ!

What causes that to occur anyways?

user error =P

rampy