I have an empty DK... so what do I do now?

[javeryh]

A while back I won an empty DK off of eBay for $36(!) and the time has come to begin restoring it to it's former glory.  I spent the better part of the weekend removing the old side art (it was converted to a Nintendo Play Choice) and I have started placing orders for the various parts (marquee, art, etc.) but I am a bit stuck when it comes to the guts of the machine. I don't have the board or power supply or monitor or anything really.  I'm open to most anything with these being my choices:

1.  Computer with MAME inside
2.  Original DK board with high score and DKII upgrades
3.  48-in-1 or some other multigame board that has DK.

I will NOT be installing extra buttons or anything.  This will look almost exactly like an original DK cabinet when I am done (except no bolts through the side art!).  The problem is that I have no idea where to begin!  Any suggestions on locating parts or even what to do with the cab would be welcome.

 

[mrclean]

Mikesarcade.com http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?action=search&category=Game+Parts&subcategory=Nintendo+Parts

arcadeshop.com http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm

quarterarcade.com http://quarterarcade.com/Search.aspx?s=donkey

ebay.com

KLOV WTB Section
BYOAC WTB Section

[javeryh]

Thanks - I guess I should have been clearer about it - I'm trying to decide what to do with the cab on the inside and then if I decide to get a board, what do I need to get it running?  Arcadeshop has a lot of interesting stuff I'll have to look at but I don't know precisely what I'll need (board, power supply and monitor? Is that it?).  I already placed an order from Mikes for some CP parts and other stuff.  I plan on ordering the side art from quarterarcade...

 

[BobA]

The computer with DK running on it would definately be the cheapest.  You could even use an old keyboard hack to reduce the interface cost.   Almost any working computer from your reuse center or goodwill will run DK with an older version of mame.  You could probably still find a single disk version of it as an alternative to a full mame.

The multi board with DK on it would probably be the second most cost effective.

Restoring the cab with a real Dk board and additions would be the most costly but would be worth more in the end.

[meany]

I'd make it into a DK2 cab with DK and DK JR.  Put a monitor in it.  This will be a fun cab to play and you may be able to get some money out of it if you ever sell it down the road.

[severdhed]

i say go with a PC running mame...it is definitely the cheapest way to go.  you can get a low end used pc for next to nothing, setup mame with dk and dkjr and you are good to go.  gamepad hacks are pretty cost effective if you only need a few inputs..

you can always try to collect the original boards over time when you have the extra money, then replace the pc once you have collected everything.  that way you can get it up and running quickly for very little money.

[CheffoJeffo]

I am not a DK fan and my purist attitude doesn't extend to Donkey Kong. I am also somewhat lazy, desire more playable cabs and am way behind on my projects.

I provide that information as a preface to what I intend to do the next time I come across an empty DK cab

- restore the externals with authentic Nintendo gear, including that itty bitty joystick made out of Strongtanium(tm)
- wire the cab for JAMMA using a "normal" arcade switching power supply
- grab a Happ VisionPro CGA monitor (or correspondingly inexpensive arcade monitor)
- drop in a 48-in-1 with just the 3 DK games selected

Voila -- lazy man's MultiKong. You don't get D2K, but I would only run D2K using the "real" kit or the ArcadeShop board as those are the only ways that Jeff sells it (the JAMMA wiring plan is actually intended to use the 48-in-1 as a stepping stone to the more expensive AS option down the road).

Alternatively, you could use a spare PC power supply (the 48-in-1 has a connector for this), a VGA monitor (also has a connector for this) and PC speakers (also has a connector for this). Based on what I have lying around the house (which includes those three components), that would definitely be the cheapest option.

IMPO, as far a resale goes, if you use a 48-in-1, your value goes way up, compared to going original or MAME.

EDIT: I should mention that part of the above comes from not wanting to deal with the 100V issues with Nintendo cabs and the video inversion issue with original boards. If I came across a cab with a nice EZ-20 already in it, then my answer above might be different.

[Turnarcades]

Create a 'dedicated MAME' cabinet. Find out what games used similar cabs/ controls, stick a very basic MAME PC inside and sking the front-end entirely with cabinet-themed artwork. Restore the external artwork, controls etc. to their former glory but with the modern brain of a PC and you have an authentic-looking cab with a little more versatility. From a re-sale point of view, anyone looking for a DK cab who can't stretch to an original minter would jump at this, a proper restorer would have it and be willing to pay to restore all the genuine internals, or an average gamer would like the combination of a clean well-presented authentic cab with versatility and keep it as is.

[Ginsu Victim]

You don't get D2K

No big loss. Anyone else really let down when they finally played this? I hated it. Impossibly difficult.

[javeryh]

Hmmm... you guys have given me a lot to think about! 

I do not see myself ever selling this cabinet since it is something I've always wanted since I was a kid.  I guess you never know but I'm not going to think about resale value for this project.

I am leaning towards installing a board but I've never worked with them before.  I am willing to learn though.  From what I can gather from Cheffo's post:

Wire the cab for JAMMA:
- arcade power supply (I assume "normal" means not a Nintendo original that runs off of 100V)
- Happ VisionPro CGA monitor
- 48-in-1 board
- this could easily be converted to a DK/D2K cab down the road

Or:
- a PC power supply
- 48-in-1 board
- VGA monitor
- PC speakers

Am I reading this right?  Is there an advantage to doing one vs. the other?  Will the games look the same?  The second option is probably cheapest for me since I already have a PC power supply and PC speakers laying around but I like the option of converting it to a true DK down the road.  I better start reading the wiki to learn about wiring up a JAMMA cab...

[Encryptor]

If you're considering restoring it fully the first thing I would do is obtain a manual for the game with schematics. That should tell you what you need to get to restore it. If you're not going to restore it to original form I'd go with Cheffo's idea.


Encryptor

[CheffoJeffo]

Wire the cab for JAMMA:
- arcade power supply (I assume "normal" means not a Nintendo original that runs off of 100V)
- Happ VisionPro CGA monitor
- 48-in-1 board
- this could easily be converted to a DK/D2K cab down the road

Using a Nintendo-to-JAMMA converter, yes, the conversion would be easy -- plug and play.

It all depends on how authentic you want to be -- if you are happy with it looking authentic, would like to play it in the short term and then be able to drop in an authentic boardset (which, now that I think about it may be a better idea than using the AS board  ), then that is the way to go (at least I can't see a flaw in the plan).

You could do the same thing using a computer and MAME instead of the 48-in-1 with the advantage being the potential for a slicker front-end (the 48-in-1 is pretty cheesy) and you could pick up a few games, but, for my money and time, it isn't worth it.

[Bender]

You don't get D2K

No big loss. Anyone else really let down when they finally played this? I hated it. Impossibly difficult.

I love it, I like a challenge and hey if your machine you don't have to put any quarters in

I'd make it into a DK2 cab with DK and DK JR.  Put a monitor in it.  This will be a fun cab to play and you may be able to get some money out of it if you ever sell it down the road.

Ditto, except I'd make it an original DK cab (actually that is what I did)

PS: I'll send out that CP this week

[Ummon]

Hmmm... you guys have given me a lot to think about! 

I do not see myself ever selling this cabinet since it is something I've always wanted since I was a kid.  I guess you never know but I'm not going to think about resale value for this project.

I am leaning towards installing a board but I've never worked with them before.  I am willing to learn though.  From what I can gather from Cheffo's post:

Wire the cab for JAMMA:
- arcade power supply (I assume "normal" means not a Nintendo original that runs off of 100V)
- Happ VisionPro CGA monitor
- 48-in-1 board
- this could easily be converted to a DK/D2K cab down the road

Or:
- a PC power supply
- 48-in-1 board
- VGA monitor
- PC speakers

Am I reading this right?  Is there an advantage to doing one vs. the other?  Will the games look the same?  The second option is probably cheapest for me since I already have a PC power supply and PC speakers laying around but I like the option of converting it to a true DK down the road.  I better start reading the wiki to learn about wiring up a JAMMA cab...

Or, put in a PC and VGA monitor.

You don't get D2K

No big loss. Anyone else really let down when they finally played this? I hated it. Impossibly difficult.

It's actually not. But it's much more like a newer age game in that the game play is a puzzle (except the foundry), and doesn't flow like the original. It's cute once you figure some things out.

[CheffoJeffo]

On the topic of VisionPro's, apparently there are fewer than 275 left for the rest of time. Might be a good time to order.

EDIT: Nevermind ... i just saw on KLOV that they are already oversold on the final shipment.

[javeryh]

On the topic of VisionPro's, apparently there are fewer than 275 left for the rest of time. Might be a good time to order.

EDIT: Nevermind ... i just saw on KLOV that they are already oversold on the final shipment.

Are you talking about the VGA ones?  I was just on Happ and they weren't listed... I will be really annoyed if I can't get one of these things...

[CheffoJeffo]

I was talking specifically about the CGA models ... you can use the VGA ones with a 48-in-1 (I would assume), but they would be a nogo for an authentic board.

 

[mrclean]

Push comes to shove although majority of the people are going to want to go the LCD route (i'm talking about non-arcade related people) they will still make a product (CRT's)if enough of a demand exists for it. Someone will corner the arcade market even if they are slightly over priced in the future. So long as they can still manufacture them, people will buy them. Maybe right now you can't buy a happ/suzo vision pro 19'' cga but a few other companies for the time being still have them available. I'm not going to panic until the last one is sold off.

[Level42]

Option 2 is the path of the enlightened my friend.

[javeryh]

PS: I'll send out that CP this week

Sweet!  I'm planning to fill the holes, sand and paint on Sunday (weather permitting) but I'll be getting to the CP soon enough.  That's actually something I could work on during the week after work since it isn't a huge project.  The buttons, CP bolts and the CP strikes just arrived last night and I have the CP overlay.  All I need to get is the joystick (I'm leaning towards a JLF) and a piece of black plastic laminate or vinyl or something.  Oh, and the t-molding.... and the instruction cards...  hmmm I better start placing some orders!

Maybe right now you can't buy a happ/suzo vision pro 19'' cga but a few other companies for the time being still have them available.

Where else are they being sold?  If I'm going to buy one it should be sooner rather than later...  Also, just so I'm clear, the CGA cannot be plugged directly into a computer but the VGA monitor can, right?   

[Ginsu Victim]

ArcadeShop lists a 19" CGA/EGA/VGA for $239
http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm

[javeryh]

ArcadeShop lists a 19" CGA/EGA/VGA for $239
http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm

Awesome - thanks.  Will this connect to both a DK or 48-in-1 board and a computer if I decide to go that route?   

[Ginsu Victim]

 

I know most multiboards I've seen have VGA, so probably.

[CrazyKongFan]

ArcadeShop lists a 19" CGA/EGA/VGA for $239
http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm

Awesome - thanks.  Will this connect to both a DK or 48-in-1 board and a computer if I decide to go that route?   

It won't connect directly to a DK board, as DK uses inverted video. You can get a video inverter though to fix that.

[javeryh]

Cool - I assume this monitor can display in DK's original resolution, right?   

[Ginsu Victim]

It's got CGA, so yeah, but they don't give much information at all about the monitor on that site. Not even the brand.

[javeryh]

I just called and got a quote on shipping ($28) so it would be $267 shipped for the monitor.  I might pull the trigger even though I'm at least a month or two away from installing any electronics. 

[jimkirk]

To me the easiest thing to do is wire the cab jamma,get a monitor,a board either original with jamma adapter or 60-1 multi, a switching power supply and wire it up and play. That is all that is needed to play right away.
All you would need to do is find an original harness,power supply and transformer,and sanyo monitor if you want the inside original.
The harness is the most difficult to find,I had to buy bits from different sources to complete it.
Does your cab have a coin door and mechs?
If not there are a few guys on KOLV that have them just post in the WTB section.
As for the cp just repair it and paint it semi or gloss black,I couldn't find any laminate or vinyl like the original.
I prefer the original stick but the Sanwa JLF  is pretty close to original and will work good for DK.

[orion]

As much as I prefer restoring games to original, I have to say that a cab in a totally gutted condition tends to be ridiculously expensive to restore.... and I mean ridiculously expensive. It seems like working boards for any popular games all seem to go for over $150 and the Vision pros go for over $200. So your over $350.00 in just those alone. Whereas a PC/Mame solution is often free. The 48 in 1 would be the easiest solution to set up and get running, and you could get all the parts you need for that easily well below $200 if you go with a 19 inch VGA monitor.

[javeryh]

As much as I prefer restoring games to original, I have to say that a cab in a totally gutted condition tends to be ridiculously expensive to restore.... and I mean ridiculously expensive. It seems like working boards for any popular games all seem to go for over $150 and the Vision pros go for over $200. So your over $350.00 in just those alone. Whereas a PC/Mame solution is often free. The 48 in 1 would be the easiest solution to set up and get running, and you could get all the parts you need for that easily well below $200 if you go with a 19 inch VGA monitor.

yeah... I'm in for almost $100 already and all I ordered so far are CP parts and the top marquee retainer.  The cab came with no CP at all.  The side art, bezel, marquee and instruction cards are going to run me another $150 and I still need to get the electronics (board/power supply) and monitor.  I'm figuring this is a $500 project easy.  Maybe I'll start with MAME since I have old computers lying around and then convert it down the road.  I don't know... I really wanted a true DK...

[orion]

As much as I prefer restoring games to original, I have to say that a cab in a totally gutted condition tends to be ridiculously expensive to restore.... and I mean ridiculously expensive. It seems like working boards for any popular games all seem to go for over $150 and the Vision pros go for over $200. So your over $350.00 in just those alone. Whereas a PC/Mame solution is often free. The 48 in 1 would be the easiest solution to set up and get running, and you could get all the parts you need for that easily well below $200 if you go with a 19 inch VGA monitor.

yeah... I'm in for almost $100 already and all I ordered so far are CP parts and the top marquee retainer.  The cab came with no CP at all.  The side art, bezel, marquee and instruction cards are going to run me another $150 and I still need to get the electronics (board/power supply) and monitor.  I'm figuring this is a $500 project easy.  Maybe I'll start with MAME since I have old computers lying around and then convert it down the road.  I don't know... I really wanted a true DK...

Well let me just say that keeping things around $500. 00 ain't going to be easy. My Pac Man cost me over $1000.00 to totally restore. It's easier to list the things that were good on it than all the things I had to replace.  Keep in mind that even the little things add up in a hurry... T molding, leg levelers ect. Now when I think about how much I spent it seems rather insane to me. However I had the cash from being in a car wreck (not at fault) and I wanted to do something that I would enjoy with that pain and suffering money.  I don't love the cab, and I'm not a huge Pac Man fan to be honest, but what I did enjoy immensely was the process of rebuilding the thing and that was what was what was worth it to me. So my advise to you is to keep in mind what you hope to get out of it. Being that you just want a working Donkey Kong I would advise either find another in better condition to restore or just Mame or 48 in 1 the thing and slowly acquire the parts over time. You won't notice spending some pocket change on it here and there, but if you go at this full speed ahead your wallets definitely going to feel it. Be prepared to go way over budget in a hurry.

[javeryh]

As much as I prefer restoring games to original, I have to say that a cab in a totally gutted condition tends to be ridiculously expensive to restore.... and I mean ridiculously expensive. It seems like working boards for any popular games all seem to go for over $150 and the Vision pros go for over $200. So your over $350.00 in just those alone. Whereas a PC/Mame solution is often free. The 48 in 1 would be the easiest solution to set up and get running, and you could get all the parts you need for that easily well below $200 if you go with a 19 inch VGA monitor.

yeah... I'm in for almost $100 already and all I ordered so far are CP parts and the top marquee retainer.  The cab came with no CP at all.  The side art, bezel, marquee and instruction cards are going to run me another $150 and I still need to get the electronics (board/power supply) and monitor.  I'm figuring this is a $500 project easy.  Maybe I'll start with MAME since I have old computers lying around and then convert it down the road.  I don't know... I really wanted a true DK...

Well let me just say that keeping things around $500. 00 ain't going to be easy. My Pac Man cost me over $1000.00 to totally restore. It's easier to list the things that were good on it than all the things I had to replace.  Keep in mind that even the little things add up in a hurry... T molding, leg levelers ect. Now when I think about how much I spent it seems rather insane to me. However I had the cash from being in a car wreck (not at fault) and I wanted to do something that I would enjoy with that pain and suffering money.  I don't love the cab, and I'm not a huge Pac Man fan to be honest, but what I did enjoy immensely was the process of rebuilding the thing and that was what was what was worth it to me. So my advise to you is to keep in mind what you hope to get out of it. Being that you just want a working Donkey Kong I would advise either find another in better condition to restore or just Mame or 48 in 1 the thing and slowly acquire the parts over time. You won't notice spending some pocket change on it here and there, but if you go at this full speed ahead your wallets definitely going to feel it. Be prepared to go way over budget in a hurry.

I enjoy building and restoring these things as much as playing them.  There's nothing better than spending some free time in the driveway working on a cab with the sun out and the radio on.  I won't be rushing to finish and I won't be ordering everything at once but I'd still like to keep the costs reasonable.  Right now my biggest expense is going to be the monitor...  I'll know more when I start placing the big orders I guess but next up is filling some bolt holes and dents with bondo, sanding, priming, sanding and painting.  Relatively inexpensive stuff!