Author Topic: Pac-man restoration - Return from Doh! (Read 121940 times)

Spyridon · « **Reply #120 on:** June 14, 2009, 10:31:51 pm »

Now that some of the household projects are out of the way, I can finally get back to this.

Moved the cab to the garage today to begin the body work

First step is to remove the Revenge of Doh side art. The tools needed - heat gun and scraper:

I used the heat gun to get it started and then just pulled it off:

On side two, I decided to go the quicker way and use the heat gun and scraper on the whole side. Leaves some adhesive residue this way, but since I'll be stripping the whole side it doesn't matter:

Makes a mess, but easy cleanup

Pulled what was left of the t-molding. It was so brittle that it just broke into pieces:

Next, I removed the vent screens from the back for cleanup:

I want to remove the logo plate on the back, but it appears to be glued on as well as held by the metal studs. Anyone know how to remove this and keep it in good condition? I tried prying it off with a screw driver, but it just bends up the edges.

Also, I checked into that unknow carriage bolt on the side of the cab. Turns out it's just a thumb tack:

csa3d · « **Reply #121 on:** June 15, 2009, 07:53:55 am »

Quote from: Spyridon on June 14, 2009, 10:31:51 pm

I want to remove the logo plate on the back, but it appears to be glued on as well as held by the metal studs. Anyone know how to remove this and keep it in good condition? I tried prying it off with a screw driver, but it just bends up the edges.

I just pried mine off, bending it.. then went to ThisOldGame.com and ordered a brand new silk screen reproduction plate for 15$. Looks like Rob is redoing his website, and it's got a lot of navigation bugs currently. I'd email him and ask if he's still selling them before prying. They look identical if you get one!

-csa

Spyridon · « **Reply #122 on:** June 15, 2009, 09:15:46 am »

Quote from: csa3d on June 15, 2009, 07:53:55 am

I just pried mine off, bending it.. then went to ThisOldGame.com and ordered a brand new silk screen reproduction plate for 15$.

Yeah, I was thinking about going that route. I'm guessing the TOG one didn't come with the four mounting studs? I'll try and save the old ones.

Level42 · « **Reply #123 on:** June 15, 2009, 04:17:11 pm »

Yes it does come with mounting hardware.

Spyridon · « **Reply #124 on:** June 16, 2009, 02:11:20 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on June 15, 2009, 04:17:11 pm

Yes it does come with mounting hardware.

Unfortunately, Rich is out of stock on these and isn't sure if he is going to do another run. Guess I'll have to work harder at saving mine. Maybe I can just mask it off instead of removing it.

Spyridon · « **Reply #125 on:** June 22, 2009, 09:53:20 am »

This weekend, I spent some time stripping the old paint off the cab.

I used Citristrip to take off the old paint. Just apply and wait a few hours for the paint to bubble up.

Here is the first side with the Citristrip applied:

Waited a few hours and the paint just scrapes off:

I had a few spots that didn't come up so I did a second application to those spots and this is what I ended up with:

Repeat for the second side. This time I put the stripper on a little thicker to avoid it drying up like it did in a few spots on the first side.

Nice bubbling action:

And finally:

Next the front side:

Once the sides were stripped, I used an orbital sander to remove the remaining paint and smooth out the sides

Here you can see the difference between the top part that was sanded and the bottom remaining part

Completed left and right sides:

Next I cleaned up the inside with a quick hit of the sander. Still need to touch it up some more, but it looks much better. Before and after:

On the back, I masked off the logo plate and applied the paint stripper

See...it really was a pac-man

Next up is to sand down the front, top, and back. Also need to work on the front area around the monitor. Once that is done, I can begin the bondo work.

Spyridon · « **Reply #126 on:** June 29, 2009, 08:59:09 am »

Did some more cab clean up this weekend.

Top and back:

Front:

Here is where we are currently at:

Need to get the back door cut and strip the bottom rear panel. A little touch up with some sand paper to get the spots I couldn't reach with the orbital sander and then we are ready for the bondo.

Level42 · « **Reply #127 on:** June 29, 2009, 11:16:12 am »

I still can't believe that that Citristrip stuff is not available here....looks to do magic ! And from what I understand it's (pretty) environment friendly.

Maybe I should start importing the stuff....

Spyridon · « **Reply #128 on:** June 29, 2009, 11:48:55 am »

Quote from: Level42 on June 29, 2009, 11:16:12 am

I still can't believe that that Citristrip stuff is not available here....looks to do magic ! And from what I understand it's (pretty) environment friendly.

Maybe I should start importing the stuff....

Plus...it smells good (as long as you like oranges). And you can smell it without worrying about what you are breathing.

Spyridon · « **Reply #129 on:** July 06, 2009, 07:36:48 am »

Used the Citristrip / orbital sander on the last remaing part of the cab. The lower back section. Now it's ready for the bondo treatment.

SirPeale · « **Reply #130 on:** July 06, 2009, 08:52:29 am »

Looks like you need some leg levelers. I have them in my store.

Also, don't forget to remove that steel piece from the bottom and paint it.

Spyridon · « **Reply #131 on:** July 06, 2009, 12:45:19 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on July 06, 2009, 08:52:29 am

Also, don't forget to remove that steel piece from the bottom and paint it.

Yep, I was planning on doing that.

King Nerd · « **Reply #132 on:** July 06, 2009, 05:14:55 pm »

Looks in great shape. You've done great work so far. Keep it up!

I'm very envious. I have no projects right now. Lookin' for a Pac or DK/Jr.
Hopefully I'll be able to get a Pac and use your restore as a guide.

Thanks

Spyridon · « **Reply #133 on:** July 06, 2009, 07:36:38 pm »

More work on the back door today (aren't vacation days great!).

First I pulled the vent screens off of the old broken back door

Next, I clamped the old door and new door together and used it as a template to cut new vent holes. The magic of the router made this a pretty easy task:

And the final product:

All that's left is to cut the hole for the lock, but I think I'll wait until after it's all painted.

*** door is upside down to make the comparison to the other holes easier. It will be turned the correct way for the final product.

Mimatt · « **Reply #134 on:** July 09, 2009, 11:06:36 pm »

Are those stencils still obtainable?? I'm about to start work on my Paccy, that I've been putting off for 3 years, And really don't wanna have to use those god-awful stickers.

PM me if you can hook me up with a set. The only sideart I tend to run into has those obvious errors in the wooshing behind the letters.

I'm really stuck on the back door part, on mine. Mine broke into several pieces, and I don't have a template to work from, to make a new one.

I love that new monitor smell.

Do you have a better picture on how you spliced the new monitors power supply into the original, and where and how you grounded it? I found a new Happ, and I'd like to use the isolation transformer, instead of having to rig a power strip in the machine.

Thanks!

Mimatt · « **Reply #135 on:** July 10, 2009, 01:38:57 am »

(sorry, double post)

Tarman · « **Reply #136 on:** July 10, 2009, 01:57:59 pm »

MORE, MORE!!! GREAT THREAD~

Sorry for the CAPS, I really am that excited about this!!!

Spyridon · « **Reply #137 on:** July 12, 2009, 08:20:58 pm »

Today was a major bondo day. This cab needed a lot of it.

I applied and sanded the first pass of bondo. I got most of the spots and just need to go back with a touch up to get some spots that need a bit more.

Spyridon · « **Reply #138 on:** July 18, 2009, 10:29:48 pm »

Did some work on the coin door today. This one is in pretty bad shape but at least it's not dented or banged up:

First step was to remove the Midway logo plate (I have a new one on the way from TOG)

I used a drill press and drilled out the rivets from the back. I was careful to only cut away enough to remove the rivet and not damage the top. I'm going to use these on the new plate to give it an original look even though they won't be holding the plate in place. The bad news is one of the rivets went flying and is lost for good. I think I have a spare Midway coin door that I can pull one off of.

Next up, it was time to sand blast

The sand blasting does a great job, but it's slow and messy (even with the blasting cabinet). It's nice on the coin door back with all the ridges and small areas, but I think I'll go back to the drill and wire wheel for the remaining pieces. (That is unless I find a powder coater locally that can do this for me)

Here is the coin door fresh out of the cabinet. Still need to clean it off, but it does look nice.

Spyridon · « **Reply #139 on:** July 20, 2009, 11:54:12 am »

I noticed this weekend that it looks like I have a few extra holes in my control panel.

I'm guessing the outer two holes are correct and the inner two need to be fixed? Can someone with a Pac-man confirm this?

SirPeale · « **Reply #140 on:** July 20, 2009, 07:09:12 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on July 20, 2009, 11:54:12 am

I noticed this weekend that it looks like I have a few extra holes in my control panel.

I'm guessing the outer two holes are correct and the inner two need to be fixed? Can someone with a Pac-man confirm this?

The holes on the right are for the P1/P2 buttons. Pac Man has no other buttons.

WunderCade · « **Reply #141 on:** July 20, 2009, 09:14:51 pm »

I think he is referring to the bottom portion.

You're correct, the two smaller outer holes (on each side) are where wood screws secure the wood backing, those other two (inner most) do not belong.

orion · « **Reply #142 on:** July 21, 2009, 12:14:53 am »

Quote from: WunderCade on July 20, 2009, 09:14:51 pm

I think he is referring to the bottom portion.

You're correct, the two smaller outer holes (on each side) are where wood screws secure the wood backing, those other two (inner most) do not belong.

Those are the only two holes I see in his picture that do not belong,

SirPeale · « **Reply #143 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:49:26 am »

Oops...I didn't let the images load when I replied. Now it makes sense.

Spyridon · « **Reply #144 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:53:19 am »

Quote from: SirPeale on July 20, 2009, 07:09:12 pm

The holes on the right are for the P1/P2 buttons. Pac Man has no other buttons.

Come on...you have to give me more credit than that!

Yes, I was referring to the 4 holes on the bottom section of the panel. It looks like I will need to fill in the inner most holes as they don't belong.

Spyridon · « **Reply #145 on:** July 21, 2009, 09:47:58 pm »

Worked on the metal parts tonight. First up was the control panel.

I needed to remove the old overlay. Using a heat gun and metal scraper, it was off in about 30 seconds

I used a wire wheel on the drill to remove the paint and rust on the front but when I hit the spot under the overlay, I hit a snag. Too much adhesive was still on the panel making the wire wheel gum up. Time to pull out the Citristrip.

One hour later after a quick scrape it was practically down to the bare metal

While I was waiting for the control panel to soak, I worked on a few more pieces.

Monitor brace (before and after):

That metal bar on the back bottom of the cab (before and after):

Marquee brackets (top before and after):

(bottom before and after):

Old rusted parts are now shiny and new, just waiting for a new coat of paint.

Mimatt · « **Reply #146 on:** July 22, 2009, 05:03:02 pm »

You're lucky you have a sandblasting shelf.

I sanded my control panel by hand - not fun.

Does This Old Game have the coin door plates with the pegs, or are they the sticky kind? What are you using to clean the small metal parts, besides a dremel?

I've been using a dremel w/abrasive buffs, and Tarnex or Brasso for the bolts, screws and coin door chutes. I like the buffs better than the steel brushes - it's almost a fine steel wool consistency. They seem alot less harsh than the wire wheels. Plus you get 2 in a pack. But on the negative side, they seem to wear out a bit faster than the wheels.

Spyridon · « **Reply #147 on:** July 22, 2009, 09:23:09 pm »

Quote from: Mimatt on July 22, 2009, 05:03:02 pm

You're lucky you have a sandblasting shelf.
I sanded my control panel by hand - not fun.

I ended up doing my control panel by hand. It really wasn't that bad if you use Citristrip first (see previous post picture). The sandblasting just takes too long. Need to figure out a better way to do that.

Quote

Does This Old Game have the coin door plates with the pegs, or are they the sticky kind? What are you using to clean the small metal parts, besides a dremel?

You can get the plate with or without holes. They don't provide the rivets.

Quote

I've been using a dremel w/abrasive buffs, and Tarnex or Brasso for the bolts, screws and coin door chutes. I like the buffs better than the steel brushes - it's almost a fine steel wool consistency. They seem alot less harsh than the wire wheels. Plus you get 2 in a pack. But on the negative side, they seem to wear out a bit faster than the wheels.

I'll be using the dremel with wire brush followed by Brasso on the coin door bolts (but your getting ahead of me)

Spyridon · « **Reply #148 on:** July 22, 2009, 09:24:08 pm »

Finished stripping the control panel today

Next up is to use some bondo on the two extra holes on the front of the panel then paint

SirPeale · « **Reply #149 on:** July 24, 2009, 07:32:57 am »

re: the coin door plate. They're not rivets. Closest thing I can find is something called "snaps". I found some in a scrapbook store, but they're not long enough to mount thru the door itself. They would, however, go thru the plate just fine.

orion · « **Reply #150 on:** July 24, 2009, 08:21:23 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on July 24, 2009, 07:32:57 am

re: the coin door plate. They're not rivets. Closest thing I can find is something called "snaps". I found some in a scrapbook store, but they're not long enough to mount thru the door itself. They would, however, go thru the plate just fine.

Cool, great info.

Spyridon · « **Reply #151 on:** July 26, 2009, 01:05:43 pm »

Finished up the bondo today.

Filled in the extra holes on the front of the control panel. I put some duct tape on the inside followed by some cardboard and more duct tape to keep the bondo from pushing through.

Next, finished the second coat on the main cab. The entire back edge on both sides needed a lot of work

Security bar holes filled on the front

Needed lots of bondo all the way around, but now she is ready to paint

And speaking of paint, I picked this up on Friday (and yes, this is all for pac-man):

Spyridon · « **Reply #152 on:** July 26, 2009, 04:47:14 pm »

Sprayed the back of the metal pieces with Rustoleum Satin Black paint (still wet)

The coin door back got a coat of Rustoleum Textured Black paint

SirPeale · « **Reply #153 on:** July 26, 2009, 05:02:43 pm »

It's a lot easier painting the coin door if you disassemble it first.

WunderCade · « **Reply #154 on:** July 26, 2009, 05:16:21 pm »

Ahh...looks like you're going to clear coat that cab when finished.

Can't wait to watch you stencil that puppy!

Spyridon · « **Reply #155 on:** July 27, 2009, 10:01:54 am »

Quote from: SirPeale on July 26, 2009, 05:02:43 pm

It's a lot easier painting the coin door if you disassemble it first.

This worked just as well. Spray it with it closed, then open it up and get the missed parts. This way, when I flip it over to the front, I can keep it closed and get everything covered.

Spyridon · « **Reply #156 on:** July 27, 2009, 10:02:43 am »

Quote from: WunderCade on July 26, 2009, 05:16:21 pm

Ahh...looks like you're going to clear coat that cab when finished.

Yep. This will be my first time using automotive paint. I'll be adding a coat of clear at the end.

orion · « **Reply #157 on:** July 27, 2009, 08:46:26 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on July 27, 2009, 10:02:43 am

Quote from: WunderCade on July 26, 2009, 05:16:21 pm
Ahh...looks like you're going to clear coat that cab when finished.

Yep. This will be my first time using automotive paint. I'll be adding a coat of clear at the end.

I didn't even catch that that was automotive paint you are are going to be using. Damn that's going to look good!

Spyridon · « **Reply #158 on:** August 01, 2009, 04:14:40 pm »

Forgot to mention that I put a coat of primer on the control panel before applying the black paint. I don't usually use primer when using the Rustoleum paint, but since I had the bondo on the front, I wanted to make sure I had a good layer of primer to help even everything out.

Can't even tell the holes were ever there!

Spyridon · « **Reply #159 on:** August 01, 2009, 04:20:07 pm »

The wait is over...the painting begins!!!!

Cab was prepped for painting. It's important to clean it really good and get any remaining dust particles off with a tack cloth.

First coat of primer was sprayed on:

I'll sand it down a bit and then give it a second coat. I spent a little more money to get the white primer. I wanted a coat of white under the yellow to really make it pop. The white primer saves me a step of having to coat it with white after the primer. Avoiding an extra clean up (clean up sucks with anything except latex paints) is worth it.


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