Author Topic: Pac-man restoration - Return from Doh! (Read 121951 times)

WunderCade · « **Reply #40 on:** February 24, 2009, 10:14:50 pm »

It looks like you have the proper Pac-man Power Block so you're golden. The wires you have clipped should wire up the same.

Spyridon · « **Reply #41 on:** February 28, 2009, 06:09:21 pm »

Was able to score a NOS Pac-man marquee.

Much better shape than the one I picked up earlier. The paper covering is really on there good. Anyone know a good way to get it off? Can I wet it? It peels off okay, but in small pieces and will take forever to get it done.

Spyridon · « **Reply #42 on:** February 28, 2009, 06:11:15 pm »

Also, was looking over my wire harness and noticed that a few wires had been clipped:

Going to have to do some work and trace these back and see what they are for.

Level42 · « **Reply #43 on:** February 28, 2009, 07:45:41 pm »

The schematics should tell you the color code of the wires and where they're connected to.

Spyridon · « **Reply #44 on:** March 02, 2009, 09:51:32 am »

Traced the cut wires back and they are for the speaker. I would have guessed that was the case even before looking. That will be an easy fix.

The third wire appears to be a ground wire.

Spyridon · « **Reply #45 on:** March 02, 2009, 09:56:58 am »

Made some progress this weekend.

1. Removed the Arkanoid II board

2. Removed the old hacked power supply and wire harness

It's pretty dirty in there, but I'll clean that up when I move the cab to the garage for painting

I cut the wires going to the interlock switch, monitor, power switch, and marquee. I'll use these to match up to the cut wires on my pac-man harness.

3. Installed the pacman power supply and harness

4. I matched up all of the cut wires from the pac-man power supply to the ones in the cab. I just need to solder them together and I should be good to go.

Spyridon · « **Reply #46 on:** March 02, 2009, 10:03:41 am »

One shinny new monitor ready to go into the cab:

What's the best way to hook up the power to this monitor?

The current K4600 monitor uses a two pronged connector:

The new monitor uses a 3 prong connector with a ground wire not used on the original:

I'm thinking about cutting the new cord below the 3 pin connector and splicing it into the two wires being used on the original monitor. I'll then add in a ground wire as well. Is there any problem with using an isolation transformer with a monitor that doens't require one?

Mauzy · « **Reply #47 on:** March 02, 2009, 10:47:02 am »

Quote from: Spyridon on March 02, 2009, 10:03:41 am

Is there any problem with using an isolation transformer with a monitor that doens't require one?

Nope. You'll be fine.

Level42 · « **Reply #48 on:** March 02, 2009, 11:17:19 am »

There already should be a separate ground wire running to the metal parts of the old monitor.

I hate you. And all you guys that can get CRT monitors so cheaply over there

Any news on the joystick ?

Spyridon · « **Reply #49 on:** March 02, 2009, 11:49:32 am »

Quote from: Level42 on March 02, 2009, 11:17:19 am

Any news on the joystick ?

We're getting closer. As soon as I get the game running I'll be able to free up a spare joystick!

orion · « **Reply #50 on:** March 02, 2009, 03:10:26 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on March 02, 2009, 10:03:41 am

One shinny new monitor ready to go into the cab:

What's the best way to hook up the power to this monitor?

The current K4600 monitor uses a two pronged connector:

The new monitor uses a 3 prong connector with a ground wire not used on the original:

I'm thinking about cutting the new cord below the 3 pin connector and splicing it into the two wires being used on the original monitor. I'll then add in a ground wire as well. Is there any problem with using an isolation transformer with a monitor that doens't require one?

I just hooked mine into a surge protector that I keep inside the cab. I didn't see the need to splice it into the cabs original wiring. I also just feel better plugging everything into a surge protector. Sure it bypasses the switch and the safety switch, but in my case someone had taken those out already anyway.

orion · « **Reply #51 on:** March 02, 2009, 03:12:48 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on March 02, 2009, 11:17:19 am

There already should be a separate ground wire running to the metal parts of the old monitor.

I hate you. And all you guys that can get CRT monitors so cheaply over there

Any news on the joystick ?

Really? That sucks! I guess it would be pretty pricey for you to get a monitor shipped to you directly from Happs.

Level42 · « **Reply #52 on:** March 02, 2009, 06:02:30 pm »

You bet. I even asked at the Suzo's headquarters over here, as the sales rep told me she could order "everything" from Happ for me as they have regular shipments (they started to carry Happ products as soon as they merged). So I asked about the CRT monitors and after some discussion with a colleague it turned out that those were out of the question because of weight and size.......sigh.

O well, I've got some hope on this shop:
http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/index_eng.htm

orion · « **Reply #53 on:** March 02, 2009, 10:43:12 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on March 02, 2009, 06:02:30 pm

You bet. I even asked at the Suzo's headquarters over here, as the sales rep told me she could order "everything" from Happ for me as they have regular shipments (they started to carry Happ products as soon as they merged). So I asked about the CRT monitors and after some discussion with a colleague it turned out that those were out of the question because of weight and size.......sigh.

O well, I've got some hope on this shop:
http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/index_eng.htm

I could see the larger sized monitors being a bear for them to ship, but the 19's and 13's aren't all that heavy and large. If they are shipping them in bulk I don't see why that would be a problem for them.

I noticed in that link that the company is currently not selling 19 inch or 13 inch CRT monitors, are they planning on selling them in the future? You do have one advantage over us on the monitor front (and you have a nice post about it here somewhere... cool read BTW) you have access to SCART TV's. I would imagine with everything being LCD's and plasmas these days, you should have tons of people just giving those things away.

Level42 · « **Reply #54 on:** March 03, 2009, 05:52:54 am »

Yep that's right. Although I've discovered that the SCART solution is not always ideal. F.I. I had a problem setting the display 100% correct on the one I used on my Centipede. Also I moved the one from the Galaxian to the Centipede and vice versa because I had some problems but now the one on the Galxian is showing some weird jitters on the right side of the screen (from the moment I moved it).

Still, they are good tubes (relatively new) and I'm looking into getting some chassis for them and see how that works. (See the thread about the Japandeal webshop).

With SCART it would be best to use brand new TVs (like Darthnuno does all the time

), which has electronic (menu) set-up of all settings. For that you mostly need a service code, and it's not always sure you can get it. Still, finding brand new 19" TV's here is pretty hard these days, though not impossible.

Alternative is finding (defective) TV's and using the tube with a new chassis.

I agree with you about the shipping, esp. when it's only a couple, but I'm not a big customer of them so they probably won't change their mind.

But let's not get too much off-topic

WunderCade · « **Reply #55 on:** March 03, 2009, 07:55:43 pm »

Let's not hijack the thread guys.

orion · « **Reply #56 on:** March 04, 2009, 10:19:52 am »

Quote from: WunderCade on March 03, 2009, 07:55:43 pm

Let's not hijack the thread guys.

I am looking forward to seeing this getting painted, how long till the weather warms up in Philly anyway?

Looks like you pretty much have the wiring figured out, but if you need any reference pics or anything for that, let me know.

Spyridon · « **Reply #57 on:** March 04, 2009, 02:08:42 pm »

Quote from: orion on March 04, 2009, 10:19:52 am

I am looking forward to seeing this getting painted, how long till the weather warms up in Philly anyway? Looks like you pretty much have the wiring figured out, but if you need any reference pics or anything for that, let me know.

I'm about 2 hours North of Philly and about 10 degrees colder. This is probably an April / May project for painting.

Thanks for the offer on reference pics, but I think I'm in good shape.

Spyridon · « **Reply #58 on:** March 20, 2009, 02:05:22 pm »

This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired. Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

orion · « **Reply #59 on:** March 20, 2009, 03:48:00 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on March 20, 2009, 02:05:22 pm

This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired. Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

Does it have anything to do with PROK???

Spyridon · « **Reply #60 on:** March 20, 2009, 04:18:57 pm »

Quote from: orion on March 20, 2009, 03:48:00 pm

Quote from: Spyridon on March 20, 2009, 02:05:22 pm
This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired. Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

Does it have anything to do with PROK???

Nope (but you are onto what I got)

orion · « **Reply #61 on:** March 21, 2009, 04:45:18 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on March 20, 2009, 04:18:57 pm

Quote from: orion on March 20, 2009, 03:48:00 pm
Quote from: Spyridon on March 20, 2009, 02:05:22 pm
This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired. Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

Does it have anything to do with PROK???

Nope (but you are onto what I got)

Cool!!!! I can't wait to see this one!

WunderCade · « **Reply #62 on:** March 21, 2009, 05:41:21 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on March 20, 2009, 02:05:22 pm

This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired. Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

Can't wait. I'm sure we'll all be like...ohhhh ahhhhh ooooo

(If it's what I believe it to be.)

Spyridon · « **Reply #63 on:** March 29, 2009, 04:32:07 pm »

Back to work on pac-man this weekend. First up was to install the new monitor. I pulled the old monitor out and set it next to the new one. I needed to remove the monitor rails from the old one

and install on the new one

Once that was done, I was able to install the new monitor into the cab

I cut the new monitor power cord and spliced the wires into the old monitor wires, connecting the thrid wire to a ground wire.

Next up was to connect all the wires we matched up earlier. I twisted the wires together, added some solder, and used some shrink tube to finish it off:

Got a package in the mail earlier this week. Midway PCB holders! Best part of the deal is that I got them for the cost of shipping ($4.95) thanks to a fellow KLOV'er.

I installed two of them to hold the PCB in place. No need to use all four sides at this point because once this is working, it will be torn down for painting.

And then installed the PCB:

As I was installing this, I noticed that the board has the fast speed chips on it. Where's the best place to get the normal speed roms?

Spyridon · « **Reply #64 on:** March 29, 2009, 04:40:50 pm »

Okay, monitor is in place and wired up

I picked up some Pac-man plexi from This Old Game. It's big enough to cover the monitor, but I'm not sure how it mounts in the game. Is there some type of bezel I need? I'll have to pull up the manual and check it out

Okay, now the moment of truth. Time to power it up...

Woot!!!!

Game on!

Need to adjust the vertical position on the monitor, but that is easy on these Vision Pro monitors as the controls are on a 3 foot wire so you can adjust from the front. Tried to play a game, but couldn't move to the right. Let's check the joystick

Ah, one of the wires had come loose. Easy fix, just solder it back in place and we are good to go.

The picture on this new monitor is incredible. Sound works fine as well. Let's put the bezel in place for the full effect:

Coin door wiring still needs some work as I can't use it to coin up, but the credit switch works fine. Just about ready to strip this down for a full blown cabinet restore.

It was a good weekend!

WunderCade · « **Reply #65 on:** March 29, 2009, 08:04:28 pm »

6F is the speedup rom. You can get the regular speed 6F from hobbyroms.com for a song.

And yes, there is a black plastic monitor bezel that mounts to the monitor. The bezel has a square recess in it that your plexi fits into and there's four retainer clips.

Here it is.

Mauzy · « **Reply #66 on:** March 29, 2009, 08:31:12 pm »

Quote from: WunderCade on February 24, 2009, 01:01:20 pm

This is the Ms. Pac-man PS block (no array on it) Ms. Pac has Coin Door lights:

Hey could you tell me something real quick: what color is the wire that is along side the white wire on the output of the isolation transformer? I have found myself also piecing one of these power sets as of late. When I'm done I plan on making a color coded map as that would be stupidly helpful, but I can't seem to find such a thing on the internet.

Spyridon · « **Reply #67 on:** March 30, 2009, 09:40:02 am »

Quote from: WunderCade on March 29, 2009, 08:04:28 pm

6F is the speedup rom. You can get the regular speed 6F from hobbyroms.com for a song.

And yes, there is a black plastic monitor bezel that mounts to the monitor. The bezel has a square recess in it that your plexi fits into and there's four retainer clips.

Here it is.

Thanks WunderCade. $25 is not that bad a price, but I don't love the idea of ordering from two-bits. I think I'll ask around and see if anyone has a spare before I place the order.

Spyridon · « **Reply #68 on:** March 30, 2009, 09:40:53 am »

Quote from: Mauzy on March 29, 2009, 08:31:12 pm

Hey could you tell me something real quick: what color is the wire that is along side the white wire on the output of the isolation transformer? I have found myself also piecing one of these power sets as of late. When I'm done I plan on making a color coded map as that would be stupidly helpful, but I can't seem to find such a thing on the internet.

Are they the same for pac-man and ms pac-man? The picture you linked was of ms. pac-man.

RayB · « **Reply #69 on:** March 30, 2009, 12:32:06 pm »

This thread makes me want to save up and put new monitors into all my machines.

Level42 · « **Reply #70 on:** March 30, 2009, 12:56:00 pm »

Not sure if I had to ask here or my Puckman thread, but could you make a pic that clearly shows how the original Pac joystick set-up is ? I'm looking at my options now...

WunderCade · « **Reply #71 on:** March 30, 2009, 03:17:25 pm »

For Mauzy and Level42:

Spyridon · « **Reply #72 on:** March 30, 2009, 03:54:45 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on March 30, 2009, 12:56:00 pm

Not sure if I had to ask here or my Puckman thread, but could you make a pic that clearly shows how the original Pac joystick set-up is ? I'm looking at my options now...

Will do!

EDIT: Looks like WunderCade beat me to it. Let me know if you need any others.

Spyridon · « **Reply #73 on:** March 30, 2009, 03:55:38 pm »

Quote from: RayB on March 30, 2009, 12:32:06 pm

This thread makes me want to save up and put new monitors into all my machines.

Yeah, I'm all for saving old monitors...but WOW!...What a nice picture.

Mauzy · « **Reply #74 on:** March 30, 2009, 04:37:31 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on March 30, 2009, 09:40:53 am

Quote from: Mauzy on March 29, 2009, 08:31:12 pm
Hey could you tell me something real quick: what color is the wire that is along side the white wire on the output of the isolation transformer? I have found myself also piecing one of these power sets as of late. When I'm done I plan on making a color coded map as that would be stupidly helpful, but I can't seem to find such a thing on the internet.

Are they the same for pac-man and ms pac-man? The picture you linked was of ms. pac-man.

A ha! There be method to my madness as that is for which I seek! I believe the picture posted by Wundercade has shown me what I need as it has the same wire colors as my Ms Pac harness, but I'm not sure if that is a Pac or Ms pac that he showed in the picture.

EDIT: The basic coloring is correct with a few marking exceptions. All base colors are he same EXCEPT ground, which has a GREEN base color with yellow bands. All other base and secondary colors are the same, except the secondary (i.e. the yellow accents on the green body) is in individual bands rather than long strands running the length of the wire.

WunderCade · « **Reply #75 on:** March 30, 2009, 05:21:37 pm »

That's a Ms. Pac-man power block Mauzy. If you need the rest of the block wires in pics, let me know. I have the camera handy.

Mauzy · « **Reply #76 on:** March 30, 2009, 07:00:27 pm »

Quote from: WunderCade on March 30, 2009, 05:21:37 pm

That's a Ms. Pac-man power block Mauzy. If you need the rest of the block wires in pics, let me know. I have the camera handy.

Excellent. Thanks!

~~EDIT: How about a relatively closeup pic of the connections on the interlock switch? That should be the last I need.~~

Nevermind. Guessed right this time!

WunderCade · « **Reply #77 on:** March 30, 2009, 09:13:00 pm »

Here you go:

Mauzy · « **Reply #78 on:** March 30, 2009, 09:16:54 pm »

Awesome. I was right. Thanks again!

Level42 · « **Reply #79 on:** March 31, 2009, 01:32:42 am »

Great pics Wunder, thanks !!

If I understand correctly the joystick is somewhat below the metal panel but not much, right ?. The bolts that hold the joystick to the wood look to be fixed on the wood as I can only see the two bolts that hold the wood to the metal CP on the top-side. Are the bolts that hold the joystick to the wood recessed ? What top do they have ?

Sorry for being anal, but I want this baby to be as "original" as possible

[Edit] Looking at the pics again, I'm sure the bolts that hold the joystick MUST be recessed as the wood otherwise wouldn't be touching the metal.
I think this also means that there is not much distance between the top of the joystick and the metal of the CP ?


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