Pac-man restoration - Return from Doh!

[orion]

I'm going to be starting the stencil process tomorrow and realized that I don't know the location of the artwork.  Can someone measure the location (distance from top, bottom, left, and right) for the sides and front.

Not my machine BTW

Edit: I don't have the front dimensions on hand at the moment.

[Spyridon]

Thanks Orion that is perfect.  I did find out that my stecils are cut so that if you align the back edge to the cab, it should be positioned correctly left to right.  Just need to align it in the correct spot from the top and bottom.

Also, somewhat of a disapointment, the side stencils are red, blue black, but the front is blue, red, black.  Just causes more work and more paint clean up.

[WunderCade]

Are you using the air pump technique or the paintbrush bristle technique for the blue splatter?  I know that you can adjust the actual spray gun to splatter but I've never attempted it.

[Spyridon]

Are you using the air pump technique or the paintbrush bristle technique for the blue splatter?  I know that you can adjust the actual spray gun to splatter but I've never attempted it.

Look at the post on the previous page

[WunderCade]

Doh! Sorry. Don't know how I missed that one.

Just for reference. Here are some shots of the original splatter to give you an idea of how dense the splatter pattern is (it's pretty consistent over the entire cab):

[orion]

Thanks Orion that is perfect.  I did find out that my stecils are cut so that if you align the back edge to the cab, it should be positioned correctly left to right.  Just need to align it in the correct spot from the top and bottom.

Also, somewhat of a disapointment, the side stencils are red, blue black, but the front is blue, red, black.  Just causes more work and more paint clean up.

I'm glad those pictures help you. I wonder if they have the stencil order like that for a reason, or if that was just an accident. In any case, its kind of strange. I can see how that is going to be kind of a PITA with the clean up considering your not using latex paint.

[Spyridon]

Just for reference. Here are some shots of the original splatter to give you an idea of how dense the splatter pattern is (it's pretty consistent over the entire cab):

Wow, that's a lot more blue than I remember.  I did have some reference shots and it isn't as dense on the one I have photos of.  I may have to go back and add a bit more blue.

[WunderCade]

Yeah. That's what I was thinking looking at your pics - not enough dots.  So, I thought I'd post some reference shots for ya.

[Silas (son of Silas)]

I really enjoy your resto threads. You seem to approach your cab restores the same way I restore cars. Step by meticulous step. The density of blue speck won't make one jot of difference to the game play when its done, nor would anyone even notice if you left it the way it is, but its that totally 'pointless' pursuit of details that I really appreciate and identify with in your work.

[Spyridon]

Yeah. That's what I was thinking looking at your pics - not enough dots.  So, I thought I'd post some reference shots for ya.

Thanks for the photos Wundercade.

I did a second pass of the blue splatter today:


Looks closer to the pictures above. (again, it's hard to photograph, but there is a lot of blue there)  I think it looks pretty good.

[WunderCade]

I think it looks good.  Ready for the stencils....

[Spyridon]

Well, I was sitting on the couch watching the Phillies game and I thought to myself, "Hey, I could be doing something productive while watching this game", so I pulled out the control panel and applied the overlay.

Items needed:
1 freshly painted control panel
1 CPO
tape
scissors
plastic burnishing tool (or whatever it's called)
beer - apply as needed



The first thing I did was line up the overlay and use some tape to hold it in place.  Blue tape works well as it is low tack, but just to be safe, I stuck it on the work surface first to take off any heavy residue.  You only need to tape the middle and one end as you will be working first from the end without tape (It's easiest to work with the top of the control panel facing you)


Working from the tapeless end, peel back to overlay, being careful that the remaining parts stay in place

Next, use your scissors to cut a few inches of the backing off

Lay the overlay in place, and use the burnishing tool to press it down good.

Next, remove the tape and pick up the other end of the overlay

Remove the backing slowly, beginning from the cut side, while at the same time you press the overlay into place. 

Use the burnishing tool again to press the entire overlay into place.

The result...a beautiful looking control panel:


(by the way, notice how well those extra holes on the front of the control panel cleaned up.  You can't even tell they were ever there)

[Level42]

Nice work !

Tip: instead of the tape you simply could have installed the buttons temporarily. Like this:



http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62784.msg671270#msg671270

[Spyridon]

Nice work !

Tip: instead of the tape you simply could have installed the buttons temporarily. Like this:

Yeah, I considered that but went with the tape instead.  You can see in one of the pictures above there is a button on the side that I was going to use.

[Spyridon]

Okay, the part we've all been waiting for....

The stencil process has begun!

Step 1:
Line up the left side RED stencil in the correct position.  Wasn't as hard as I thought as the stencil is set so that you just align the back edge to the left edge of the cab and everything lines up from left to right.  You just need to set the correct distance from the top.  Use tape to hold it in place.


Step 2:
Use the hinge method as follows:
     * Remove tape from the top of the stencil and peel back a few inches
     * Cut off the backing from the part you peeled back
     * Apply the top section of the stencil to the cab and press into place
     * Remove all the tape
     * Working from the top down, slowly peel back a few inches at a time.  As you do this, press the decal into place with a plastic burnishing tool like this one (if you don't have one, a credit card will proabably work):

     * Once the stencil is in place, peel off the protective layer


Step 3:
Repeat for the other side



Step 4:
Cover up all the areas that you don't want to get paint on


Step 5: (the fun step)
Paint!


Step 6:
Remove the stencils:

This automotive paint dries very quickly so you can remove the stencils within minutes of painting.  I didn't want to leave them on too long and let the paint really harden up and risk pulling some of it off when removing the stencil

The stencil uses registration marks (pac-man shaped) to line up the next two layers of stencils.  You must remember to leave these on the cab and not remove them after painting




Step 7:
Admire your work


The first color is the easiest since you don't have to worry about aligning it to the previous colors.  That will be a challange.  Since the first color of the front stencils is blue, I'm going to do that when I do the second pass on the sides.

[orion]

 

[Silas (son of Silas)]

Looking good so far...   

[ZORK2]

Spyridon that looks AMAZING!! Way to go!! Can't wait to see the finished product! Where did you find the stencil kit?  I'm concidering redoing my pacman someday. There is no way I'm going to use decals on it!! I'm going to suffer through stenciling it just as you are!!!

[Level42]

That is going to be very beautiful.

So, the speckles are only over the yellow paint ? Somehow I had the idea that they were also over the artwork (which seems pretty weird to do know, don't know how I got that idea).

[WunderCade]

How are the Red edges? Any ridging problems?

[Spyridon]

So, the speckles are only over the yellow paint ? Somehow I had the idea that they were also over the artwork (which seems pretty weird to do know, don't know how I got that idea).

Yes, the blue speckles were put down first then the artwork.  You probably got that idea becuase the speckles show up on pac-man as he stays the base color.

[Spyridon]

How are the Red edges? Any ridging problems?

If you run your hand across the cab, you can definitely feel the edges of the red paint.  I don't think it will be a problem (especially when the clear coat covers the entire side), however, I'm debating if I should lightly sand it.  I'm concerned about taking too much off.

[WunderCade]

Yeah, Phet lightly sanded that Taito EE cab resto he did on recommendation from Brian (I think). Any way, the clear coat made it perfect according to Phet.

[Spyridon]

Yeah, I might do that, but I need to be careful because I'll have to sand again on the other colors.  Need to make sure I don't take too much off.

[Spyridon]

Can someone tell me what color the bolts on the control panel are?  Are they painted black or are they silver?

[orion]

Can someone tell me what color the bolts on the control panel are?  Are they painted black or are they silver?

Mine were coated in rust, but they had appeared to be painted black at one time, so that's what I painted them. Also everyone I have ever seen appeared to have black bolts.

[SirPeale]

BTW, they're not painted, they're blued. 

[Spyridon]

BTW, they're not painted, they're blued. 

One of these days I need to pick up the stuff to do that.

[SirPeale]

I got mine @ a sporting store.  Expensive, but worth it.

[MaximRecoil]

BTW, they're not painted, they're blued. 

If one's looking for bolts with the correct finish already applied at the factory, then the term they typically use is "black oxide". Bluing is black oxide but bluing usually refers to a thinner coat of black oxide, and is mostly used in the gun industry.

The quick and easy "cold blue" chemicals you can buy do not provide a very durable finish. On guns, "cold blue" is usually only used for touch-ups, as it would not hold up for long as the main finish for the gun. However, if you want the best cold bluing solution, get Brownell's Oxpho-Blue (link).

Hot salt bluing is what is typically used by manufacturers and gunsmiths for complete finishes, as it is among the most effective and durable methods of bluing; though it is not particularly practical to set up at home for a few bolts. However, if there is a gunsmith in the area, he may throw a few bolts into a tank while bluing a complete gun or something, for a nominal charge.

Of course, the easiest thing to do would be to just get new bolts from MikesArcade.com (link), as they already have a black oxide finish from the factory, and they are not very expensive.

[Spyridon]

if you want the best cold bluing solution, get Brownell's Oxpho-Blue (link).

Thanks for that link.  I may pick up some of that stuff for future work.

Of course, the easiest thing to do would be to just get new bolts from MikesArcade.com (link), as they already have a black oxide finish from the factory, and they are not very expensive.

Well, almost as easy is to do what I did.  I used my dremel to remove the rust on the bolts.  Then planted some mushrooms!


Then spray them black (trust me...they're in there)

[MaximRecoil]

Well, almost as easy is to do what I did.  I used my dremel to remove the rust on the bolts.  Then planted some mushrooms!

Then spray them black (trust me...they're in there)

I think you'd like the looks of black oxide/bluing better than paint. It has an appearance that looks like the black is actually the color of the steel, rather than a coating of paint sitting on top.

[SirPeale]

I used to use my Dremel or a wire wheel to remove the rust, but it was still looking pitted and just...not...good.

I recently started putting the bolts in a drill and polishing them up with progressively higher grades of sandpaper.  Depending on how bad it is I might start as low as 200 grit, then go to 400, then 800.  Shines up old bolts nicely.

And Max Recoil is right about the hot and cold bluing.  But hot bluing isn't feasible for a home setup unless you're hardcore.  Good call on finding a local gunsmith.

[Level42]

Good call on finding a local gunsmith.

No gunsmiths here I guess :S

I agree, I painted the SW bolts black but it looks "wrong" (although much better than rusted). The black doesn't blend in to the blue background as they should.

Now, let me find a gunsmith here....................HAH !

Would those bolts be the same on the Pac Man CP as the Galaxian ? It would be very reasonable to believe so. I thought the Galaxian's were simply "chrome" looking on the flyer so I left them as I bought them:


...or did I sand those myself ? I can't remember !

[Spyridon]

I think you'd like the looks of black oxide/bluing better than paint. It has an appearance that looks like the black is actually the color of the steel, rather than a coating of paint sitting on top.

I agree.  I will look into that for a future project.  Maybe even pull these and redo them at some point.

[WunderCade]

Guess I'm chiming in too late, but the bolt heads on my Pac-man CP are silver like Level42's.  The 2 wood screws are black.

[Level42]

Yeah, Bob Roberts' also sells silver for Pac:

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#hardware

(First line)


Get out your sanding paper Spyri.....

[Spyridon]

Guess I'm chiming in too late, but the bolt heads on my Pac-man CP are silver like Level42's.  The 2 wood screws are black.

Yeah, Bob Roberts' also sells silver for Pac:

Hmmm...what to do.  I have to place an order from Bob anyway. When I do, I'll order a set of botls.

Regarding the 2 wood screws, my control panel didn't have anything in there.  Are they just a standard flat top wood screw?

[WunderCade]

They look like standard phillips flat head wood screws, but they are painted so I don't know what the finish is under the paint. Nor do I know the length.

[Level42]

I'm not sure if you mentioned it already, but I assume you're spray painting this ? What method ?