one led too dark and one ledwiz-output always on

[nailsn]

Hey folks!

I have two questions about the led wiz
Right now I'm building my control panel with 30 electric ice buttons including single leds, 1 rgb Trackball and 4 translucent balltops with single leds inserted. I chained all of them to 1 LEDWiz from Randy using the +5 Volt USB output on the LED Wizs board and connected each one to its numbered screw-connection.
Right now I have 2 problems:

1) I've tested everything and so far every led works except for one in one balltop, it is darker than connecting the led directly to the +5v output and ground from the PC-power supply. So I thought it might be neccessary to power the LEDWiz itself with the cable from the supply.
My LEDWiz seems new/different than the ones mentioned in the forum, cause there is no X5v input/output. So I connected simply the +5v cable from the pc-power supply to the +5v USB output from the Wiz and the LED were brighter (it worked kind of).
So is this correctly working, or is it dangerous for the Wiz/LEDs to do it this way??

The new LED Wiz has a Bank Voltage Select feature which could do the job, too, but I didn't figure it out yet.


2)One Output from the LED Wiz (nr. 18) lights the LED so, thats its always on, no matter if a signal is send or not.
What could be the solution for this error..., or is the LED WIZ not working right.


I hope there is someone who knows if I'm doing something wrong, I would be happy to hear something from Randy, too.   

[nailsn]

Anyone? Come on I know there some pros out there!

[arzoo]

I would post these questions directly to Randy from the GGG support email.

[RandyT]

I see a few issues here.  I recommend downloading the docs from the site if you don't have the sheet that was shipped with the board.

30 RGB drives on a single board would try to draw over 1800ma (1.8 amps!) when all outputs are on.  If you are using an Electric ICE-TB with the new NOVA-RGB-TB light unit, add another 300+ma.  The USB port can only deliver 500ma and the solution is not to directly connect the 5v supply to the board (this is a no-no) but to leave that terminal alone and connect the 5v directly to the items being powered.

The "Bank Voltage Select" sounds mysterious, but it's really not.  For simple LED's they can probably be ignored.  Think of them as an "X5v" connection, but separated for each bank of drivers.  They are just connections for the internal diodes in the drivers that allow them to safely power inductive loads.  Separating them like this allows each bank to be able to do this with different voltage devices.

Again, all of this is covered in the docs.

As for the stuck output, it's possible that something got damaged.  It's possible that a driver chip took a hit in all the hub-bub and swapping it will fix the problem.  Email me

RandyT