Trackball Plate instalation question

[Dariusz]

Hi,

I've got a question on how the Happ Plate 3" Trackball should be installed? (the plave is abouit 1.5-2mm thick).

1. Should it be installed  with the plate on top of the control panel (ie. The top of the plate will be 1.5-2mm above the control panel)? OR

2. Should the top of the plate be flush with the control panel (ie. The top of the plate is levell with the control panel)?

Option 1 is easy to install, but option two requires presision. If option 2 is the correct option, how do you go about making the cut-out for the plate in the control panel.


Thanks in advance for all responses.

Kind Regards,

Dariusz

[teef two]

It's going to be down to personal preference and/or skill level. You could mount it flush with the topside by using a router to make the recess. I'd suggest practising on some scrap. Covering the plate after that with an overlay and some plexi would make it invisible.

[Tiger-Heli]

It's going to be down to personal preference and/or skill level. You could mount it flush with the topside by using a router to make the recess. I'd suggest practising on some scrap. Covering the plate after that with an overlay and some plexi would make it invisible.

Plexi over the top of the plate is not a good idea.  It will work, but defeats the purpose of the plate.  Otherwise, yes, route it out to recess it, or mount it above the panel.

[u_rebelscum]

I recessed (vb?) my plates.  If you do, here's how I suggest it.  (Uses a router)

Mark, on the CP, the cutout "football" and the four corner bolts that hold the plate to the CP.  Cutout the football with a jigsaw/router/ziproto/whatever, and keep the "football".  Drill the four holes for the corner bolts and drop the plate onto the top of the CP, using the bolts to line it up correctly.  Trace the outline of the plate onto the CP.  Pull the plate back off the CP and set the router bit depth to that of the plate by: sitting the plate on a flat surface and the router on the plate, unlock the plunge router, drop/push the body of the router down so the bit rests on the flat surface; and lock the router in place.  Put the football back in to help keep the router level.  Route the CP, but leave the middle of the football un-routed.  Straight edges are nice to keep the edges straight, but if you don't mind or are going to cover it with artwork/laminate, you can fill any extra routed space around the plate with bondo or other wood filler.  

<edited- replaced dangerous "loose bit" words with "unlock plunge router" wording>

It's going to be down to personal preference and/or skill level. You could mount it flush with the topside by using a router to make the recess. I'd suggest practising on some scrap. Covering the plate after that with an overlay and some plexi would make it invisible.

Plexi over the top of the plate is not a good idea.  It will work, but defeats the purpose of the plate.  Otherwise, yes, route it out to recess it, or mount it above the panel.

Why would covering the plate with plexi defeat "the purpose of the plate"?  Especially if you got happs cheaper plain zinc model instead of the black textured one, and cover the plate with artwork anyway?  

[Tiger-Heli]

Why would covering the plate with plexi defeat "the purpose of the plate"?  Especially if you got happs cheaper plain zinc model instead of the black textured one, and cover the plate with artwork anyway?  

I should have clarified that, not that it can't be done, just that it's not the best idea.

This is mainly from info I gained from exchanging E-mails with Bob Roberts.  The plate has three purposes:

1) Simplifies installation
2) Allows the trackball to be mounted high on the panel, so you have maximum trackball surface area for playing games.
3) Provides a clean interface between the trackball and the panel, so you have a place to rest your palm and so you don't have to worry about pinching your hand between the panel edge and the TB.

Mounting the plate above plexi is fine.

Mounting the plate below plexi has the following problems:

1)  The overall height of the trackball above the panel is reduced by the thickness of the plexi.
2)  The hole in the plexi really should be radiused (smaller on top and larger on the bottom surface) to account for the curvature of the T-ball.
3)  If item 2) is done improprerly (or not at all), there is a greater chance of catching your fingers against the lip of the plexi as you spin the T-ball.

That's what I was meaning!

[AlanS17]

I always figured the whole point if the plate was just to mount in wood. Otherwise you would have no way to fasten it to the wooden panel without the thing being 3/4 deep. Then the trackball wouldn't even poke out the top. If you want a perfect example of mounting below the plexi look kat newer Golen Tee machines. Ever notice they don't have bolt heads sticking out. They shave down the edge of the plexi/lexan/insert-covering-here to get it smooth. If you don't have anything to shave with you're screwed, but that's why man invented... DREMEL!!!  

[REBIRTH]

If you want a perfect example of mounting below the plexi look kat newer Golen Tee machines. Ever notice they don't have bolt heads sticking out. They shave down the edge of the plexi/lexan/insert-covering-here to get it smooth.

The Happ mounting plates are smooth on top, no bolts to stick out.  I did mine very similar to u_rebelscum.  I routed the top of the pane to the depth of the mounting plate so that it was the same height as the rest of the control panel.  I did the same with my Oscar joystick restrictor plates.

[u_rebelscum]

Mounting the plate below plexi has the following problems:

1)  The overall height of the trackball above the panel is reduced by the thickness of the plexi.
2)  The hole in the plexi really should be radiused (smaller on top and larger on the bottom surface) to account for the curvature of the T-ball.
3)  If item 2) is done improprerly (or not at all), there is a greater chance of catching your fingers against the lip of the plexi as you spin the T-ball.

That's what I was meaning!

I see where you're coming from, but get the hip lip (aka golden tee) model (betson has one too) instead of the old 1/16" lip style.  If the plexi is 1/8", all your points are mote, since the hip lip cases are designed for 3/16" thick control panels, and 1/16" mounting plate + 1/8" thick plexi = 3/16".  


Look at the two trackballs on the right.  The one on the right is the original style, and has the problems you mentioned.  The one in the middle is the high lip style and the top of the lip is at top of the plexi; if you moved the case higher, the lip would rise too, and you wouldn't get any more accessable ball area.

The one on the far left is the happs high ball model, and even with the plate below the plexi, you get "more ball" than the original style with a plate above the plexi.  However, I sort of agree with #3 for this single case.

[REBIRTH]

2)  The hole in the plexi really should be radiused (smaller on top and larger on the bottom surface) to account for the curvature of the T-ball.
3)  If item 2) is done improprerly (or not at all), there is a greater chance of catching your fingers against the lip of the plexi as you spin the T-ball.

I actually cut my lexan hole the opposite of what you say in #2 for the very reason of your #3.  The bottom of the lexan hole is exactly the size of the little lip around the ball (the Happs hi-ball  has a very small lip ringing the openning around the ball).  I then beveled the edge of the lexan hole outward, a bit away from the ball so that as your fingers are rolling off the ball they slide right over the beveled edge of the lexan.  It's incredibly smooth, never got any skin caught and there really is no way to get your skin caught that way.

Also, as u_rebelscum said, you hardly lost any hieght of the ball at all if you router the mounting plate flush with the wood.  The lexan is 1/8 of an inch, so you lose 1/8 of an inch in height - but given how high the hi-ball sits, it is nothing.  I'd much rather give up 1/8 for the cleaner look it gives.  It's all what you are into, but I like it countersunk.

Here is a picture of what I mean about routing the lexan away from the ball to eliminate any skin pinching that could possibly happen.

[AlanS17]

I was planning on doing mine the same way REBIRTH has done his (assuming REBIRTH is a he) because it's prettier makes more sense to boot. Plus that's even the way Golden Tee does it. When was the last time you caught your fingers on a Golden Tee machine? I'm sure someone out there has, but I haven't.

[REBIRTH]

I was planning on doing mine the same way REBIRTH has done his (assuming REBIRTH is a he)

"I'm a man, baby!"

[Brax]

Pull the plate back off the CP, and set the router bit depth to that of the plate by sitting the plate on a flat surface, the router on the plate, and the bit loose enough to drop down and rest on the flat surface; tighten the bit.

Never ever EVER drop the bit slightly out of the chuck in this manner. It is INCREDIBLELY dangerous not to mention foolish. A router bit spins at ATLEAST 20,000 RPM. If it flies out of the chuck it could kill you! A router bit should be installed into the chuck so it hits the bottom. NO EXCEPTIONS.

To set the depth of your bit to plunge cut the mounting plate thickness you need a PLUNGE router. (Clever name, yes?) You set it up in exactly the same way. (Have the mounting plate on a flat surface. Put the router on the mounting plate with the bit hanging off the edge. Drop the router using the plunge feature until it hits the table. Lock the router at this height. Your depth is now perfectly set for the mounting plate thickness.)

This is the ONLY way you should be plunging with a router.

If I catch any of you other guys missusing your tools I'm gonna smack ya in the back of the head!!

I need people to abuse around here, I can't have you dropping like flies due to router mishaps!

[u_rebelscum]

Pull the plate back off the CP, and set the router bit depth to that of the plate by sitting the plate on a flat surface, the router on the plate, and the bit loose enough to drop down and rest on the flat surface; tighten the bit.

Never ever EVER drop the bit slightly out of the chuck in this manner. It is INCREDIBLELY dangerous...

To set the depth of your bit to plunge cut the mounting plate thickness you need a PLUNGE router.

I actually said that?

Definitely, I meant to say what you said.    That's so dangous I'm going to have to edit the original post; don't want anybody to get hurt.

Thanks for pointing that out, Brax.