Rebuilding Wurlitzer New Orleans juke with PC...

[heffe2001]

I'm gutting a Wurlitzer New Orleans juke, and I am planning on putting a PC in place of the mechanism that's installed in it now.  I'm looking for software I can stick on the box that I can use with something like a GPwiz or KeyWiz controller and rebuild the existing controls, and something to drive the LED display that shows the current track, credits, etc (credits doesn't really matter at all, as it'll be a walk up and play type thing in my basement), or possibly replace the led array with a LCD of some type (it's a 4 digit LED display currently).  Anybody know of a decent, easy to use piece of software that will control a LCD/LED panel?  I'm wanting the machine to look as stock as possible, and definitely want it to be easy to use so the wife can load new CD's onto the machine without too much trouble..

[Kevin Mullins]

Personally..... I have to recommend DWJukebox for the way you're describing your project.
There's some very cool jukebox softwares out there, but this one is great for that kind of build. Most are great for visual stuff, but DWJukebox to me is wonderful for functionality in an original sense.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,27.0.html
http://dwjukebox.com/

The only function that may be an issue is the LED display and such.
But your idea of using a LCD may be an option. (which has me thinking about it now)
Use a Keywhiz or similar for the keypad and you're golden. (can even hook the coin mech up like I did if you want just for kicks)

I'm not sure what the song selection layout is for yours, so that may take some tweaking to get it right..... but I'm sure it's possible.
Plenty of help over on the DWJukebox forum section of this board.

Is this pic like yours?

[heffe2001]

Yep, that's the one exactly .  If the software supported output via something like LCD Smartie, I think I can get it working with a Silicon Craft SC4Dlite - 4 Digits Serial LED Module.  Wonder if output of track input, and current track playing could be added to DWJ?  (I've got it installed already, and it looks like it would work with the right layout on it).

I'm also looking at MultiFE, which fits the bill pretty well (with one exception, after entering a CD/Track #, requires an enter key to actually play/queue up the tracks.  The juke has no enter key, just 0-9, left & right arrow, and reset.  It even has LCD Smartie output in it..

I'm going to order one of the LED displays probably Friday, and see if I can get it working with Smartie.  If I get it working, then all I'd need is a program that can hook in, and only need 4 digits to enter a track .

[Kevin Mullins]

I'm also looking at MultiFE, which fits the bill pretty well (with one exception, after entering a CD/Track #, requires an enter key to actually play/queue up the tracks.  The juke has no enter key, just 0-9, left & right arrow, and reset.  It even has LCD Smartie output in it..

DWJukebox has a line like AutoSelect = True in the jukebox.ini that can be changed.
(TRUE is what you want.....same as mine, no enter key)
Maybe MultiFE has something similar that can be changed.

I don't believe DWJukebox has incorporated any kind of output function usable with LCD or LED displays. I know we've talked about it, because of my project anyways, but I don't think there is anything yet. But I've been looking at maybe some sort of background software that would recognize keystrokes and display them on the LED display similar to what a calculator would do and then automatically clear itself shortly after. (may not display the "currently playing" song number though when no selections are being made, etc)

[Space Fractal]

I just see your post now and you have posted about your project in my MultiFE forum.

I have updated MultiFE with your requirement. Enter can now been disabled in Jukebox GUI and have also fixed up some LCD issues, so it should been suitable for your project as well. Hope you got it work with my or Chris software as well.

[Kevin Mullins]

Cool.... so there's your answer on the ENTER key issue.

So will MultiFE work with an LED display like the one he mentions trying?
http://www.siliconcraft.net/SC4DLITE-SERIAL%20LED%20MODULE.htm

I understand there is lots of support for LCD type displays, but what about older seven segment LED displays?

[Space Fractal]

MultiFE does not support LCD directly, instead all input is wrote to a txt file which can been picked up by other software, example like LCD Smartie which should been able to send the command or create a little wrapper to due the same trick.

MultiFE do not send commands directly, instead you need to create a so called JPS plugin if you want to do that. These plugins can function in some other software as well which use that system.

MultiFE send is still needed DLL plugin support for this type of input, but I does think a Jukeplugin System (look for the sticky thread) can can do that job as well, since MultiFE send album as well song digit and could monitor when the song is added, so smartyLCD would not been required. Can anyone create a LCD plugin?

[heffe2001]

Wow, that was fast, lol.  I may end up ordering a different LED panel, there's a 6 segment display that just takes straight ASCII (without any translation) that might actually work better, and it's available in kit for, so I could build it with only 4 segments instead of 6...  It's called a USB7  ( http://www.makershed.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MKFL1 ).

I can most likely make the 4 digit one work, but it would require translation to make it look right.  With the other display, it's much easier to get it running under LCD Smartie, and indirectly in anything that's LCD Smartie compatible.

**EDIT**  You know, sometimes I'm just an idiot.  The SC4DLiteA LED display takes straight ascii input, I got hung up on the individual segment control from the PDF instructions, and never even paid attention to the fact that the thing will take straight ascii, lol.  No translation needed .  Now to order it, and get it all running .

[heffe2001]

Here's how to use the USB7 with LCD Smartie, I'm going to assume the same method will work with the other display, since it actually works with straight ASCII .

[heffe2001]

I was looking at the front of my box last night, and there was a 17" monitor sitting on the desk next to it.  On a whim, I measured the front, and it looks like 2 17's would fit side-by-side where the tracklist section is on the front, if I remove the existing glass (they would actually fit perfectly, side by side, and fill the entire opening).

I'm attaching a larger picture so that you can see where I'm talking about.  Basically pull out the entire glass portion (where it says NEW ORLEANS CD, the flipbooks, and the section where it shows the static CD covers on the right).  If I put 2 LCD's in there, anybody know if you can use 2 touchscreens in the same machine, or would I be better off using 1 touchscreen on the left, and have the 2nd screen be non-touch (the entry buttons, and everything on the left screen, and maybe current CD info on the right, etc).  The only problem now is, will MultiFE support 2 screens for display, need to look into that later today..

[Space Fractal]

No, MultiFE is not designed to dualscreen use, due limits in BlitzMax last time I tried that (crashed when I tried), nor I havent see software use 2 touchscreen at once.

[heffe2001]

I think I'm going to use the box as-is, it's got more character and definitely will look stock with the existing setup.  Less work for me too .


I should hopefully have the LED display next week, so I'll see what I can get going then.

[Kevin Mullins]

I think I'm going to use the box as-is, it's got more character and definitely will look stock with the existing setup.  Less work for me too .

I should hopefully have the LED display next week, so I'll see what I can get going then.

I opted for the stock appearance as well.
Neat to have the title strips and such to browse at to pick songs.
Speaking of title strips... when you pick your song lineup and get ready for that part try this out: http://www.pinballrebel.com/archive/other/onlinestrips/

I see now why the four digit display would work great for you..... mine is a three digit.
I couldn't tell clearly in the picture I had found.
Looking forward to hearing your progress though, I'm sure the principals would be the same no matter how many digits need displayed. 

[heffe2001]

Although I didn't document the teardown of the existing juke, I'm going to try to document the build-process.  I need to really do a good cleaning on the inside of the box, it's got decades of smoke & dust all over inside & out..  Next will be making a 'tray' inside for the PC & AMP to sit on (and the extra powersupply I'm going to run to power the 12v amp, that might be another part I need to buy).

The machine I was originally planning on using is a P3-933 HP E-PC E-Vectra, which is pretty much a small self-contained PC (smaller than an xbox-360), but I didn't find any decent amount of RAM in my junk drawer, and the few that I have only have like 64m or 128m max in them.  I'd rather have something with a bit more power, but finding something this small might be a challange.  It runs off of a 19v laptop-style power brick, so I'd definitely have to have a seperate power supply for the AMP.  I'm wondering if I should go with a matx board I have at the house (I think it's a P4-2.4 or 2. that uses DDR, which I should be able to load up nicely, but will really be overkill .

I'm attaching a pic of the little E-PC if you're curious as to what it is...

[Space Fractal]

I think that PC should been fine. 128mb ram should been fine, not sure with 64mb ram on this kind of project, where you can disable the whole GUI in monitorless mode.

Good luck elsewice for your project, regaardless you use Chris or mine software. If you have more request post it on the forum (which have been cleared up for spam and spam username).

[heffe2001]

Once my LED display panel comes in, I'm going to try to write a plugin in Blitzmax to do direct serial communication, I saw a few examples on how to do that on their forums.  Hopefully I can figure it out, haven't done any real programming in a decade or more..

[heffe2001]

I got the tiny (TINY) amp I bought in today, and I have a feeling that it's going to be way to small (physically, and power-wise).  It was a 29.00 shipped ebay cheapie (my old amp I had was DOA, so I just got something cheap to get me by till later, shoulda spent a bit more I guess).

The speakers in the box are the original ones that came with it, 2 4" 8 ohm in the top of the box, and 2 12" 10 ohm (10??!?) full-range in the bottom.  I think I'm going to pull them and replace with a pair of 4" 2 way car speakers, and possibly 2 12" subs, but I'm not 100" sure the 4" will put out enough sound.  I'm trying to keep it looking stock from the outside, otherwise I'd replace the front glass with a piece of wood, and mount some mid's in there and just go with seperates, here's to hoping the 4" I have sound decent in there...

[Kevin Mullins]

I kept the originals in mine and am running them off an old 120 watt (so they say) el cheapo car amp.
The sound is surprisingly really good.
It all depends on how you wire it up. Most of those original amps were of the tri-mode configuration. So if the amp you picked up will do that then it will be easy and I think you will be surprised with the sound. There's probably a crossover of sorts in the bottom section with the woofers as well. The 4"ers should cover the highs and mids while the bottom takes care of the bass.
Does yours have an "output package" in it?
I'm not at all familiar with the Wurlitzer setup, just know what I learned on my Rowe/AMI.

[heffe2001]

It sounds OK as it is, but at some point I'm definitely going to have to upgrade, especially if I drop a larger/better quality amp into the system.  The 4" will be easy to get to, and I have replacements available.  What I'm most worried about on it right now is the little tiny amp, it's literally smaller than 2 3.5" HD's stacked on top of each other, and supposed to be 200w (50x4 channels), but by the size, I'd say it's probably more along the lines of 10wx4 (at 4 Ohms), so at the 9 ohm it's running now (an 8 & a 10, in parallel, halved is 9 ohm), it's probably pushing 4-6w (not any better than a powered PC speaker system).  The speakers are rated at 20w for the 12's, and 8 or 10w for the 4".  It just doesn't have anywhere near the punch that the factory amp supplied (it was 50w 2 ch, but was hooked up a bit differently than I would have thought for a 2ch amp, the lower speakers & upper speakers were connected to different places on the amp, I'd have to check the schematic to see how the amp was made).

I figure by dropping in a better-quality amp, with say 75/ch at 4ohm, or better still, a 4 ch amp with an internal crossover, replacing the upper speakers with some decent quality 2-way 4", and 2 12" subs, with the amps crossover sending the upper range up to the 4", and lower to subs (naturally), I'll probably get much better sound.

Just wish I had gone with my gut on the first amp and skipped it till I could get something better, but I was just trying to get out cheap (if the amp was bridgable, I'd probably be happy with it, but it's not, so I'm going to try it in 4 channel mode (it has a lowpass & highpass filter built in, but I'm not sure about the quality).

[Kevin Mullins]

It just doesn't have anywhere near the punch that the factory amp supplied (it was 50w 2 ch, but was hooked up a bit differently than I would have thought for a 2ch amp, the lower speakers & upper speakers were connected to different places on the amp, I'd have to check the schematic to see how the amp was made).

That's kinda the problem I had with mine and found out later the original amp was a tri-mode... which I don't have. Meaning the if you wire it up like you think it should be it really screws with the sound quality. (like crossing wires) It's designed to have left and right stereo to the upper speakers, but then at the same time a "bridged" mode if you will to the lower bass set. If you originally had a 2ch amp then I would assume you had four wires coming off the amp to either an output package of sorts or to maybe a crossover and then split to all the speakers. Even though my little amp doesn't have a true bridged option I found that if I connected just the positive side of the wiring to the positive side of the amp (kinda like you would if bridged) but left the negative completely disconnected it sounded great. Understandably not to it's fullest potential, but surprisingly good...... with punch too. There are small car amps that do the true tri-mode, but I just hadn't felt the need to do anything more to it.... it sounds that good.

Now of course this was my scenario with this particular juke, so you may have to investigate further like you said on how your original amp was designed to work as far as splitting the frequcies to the woofers and whatnot.
And also look for any other built in crossovers and such which may effect how it's wired.
I found the factory crossover in the bottom area with the woofers, but yours may or may not have one.

[heffe2001]

The 4" speakers in the juke actually have a passive filter on them for the lower frequencies, but the lower speakers don't, they are full-range, with seperate left and right channels (not wired in parallel).  It's possible I have them in reversed phase, but I'm fairly sure it's not.  I still think I'll pick up a decent 4 channel name-brand amp, especially if I can find a decent one that with lowpass & highpass filters, and a bridgable 3rd & 4th channel, so I can use 2 subs in parallel (8 ohm), and drop the impedence down to the 4 ohm the amp is rated for.  Just need to figure out how to get these darn 12" speakers out so I can get to work on something else, lol.


*EDIT* Figured it out, there are 2 bolts on either side of the front plate at the bottom, and 2 screws on the bottom edge, once that's removed, the front board comes out, and you have full access to the speakers.  The wiring in the box to those speakers is direct to the subs, with no filters or anything, even though those speakers are rated from 40-5000hz, so I picked up a decent Clarion amp with an adjustable low-pass crossover in it (4 channel, can be bridged to 2 or 3), hook the new 4" up top with the high-pass set around 1000-1500, and connect the 2 subs I have now in parallel, dropping them to 4 Ohms, bridge the 2 rear channels mono, and see how she does then.  At some point I'll probably stick some decent subs in the box, but I have a feeling that once these have the highs taken away.  Upon removal, I found out that the 12" speakers are LP 300/37/100 FP's, handle 50w, and are rated at 8 ohm (not 10 like the parts list says for the New Orleans).  I pulled apart the board (pulled the metal mesh part from the wooden panel), and the grill-cloth underneath looks absolutely horrible.  Looks like it's had a few spills at some point.  Going to sand down the metal mesh, and either get it powder coated black, or see if a buddy of mine can at the very least get a decent quality paint on it..  Think it'll look much better after that's done...


I got my LED display panel in today, but I probably won't have time to play with it until tomorrow evening, but as far as the display quality & fit, looks spot on the same size as the old one, should look exactly like the OEM panel when I'm done .  Going to take it to work with me in the AM and see if I can get it going there, hopefully have some time tomorrow afternoon...

Here's a link to the woofer's specs:

http://img512.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ittlp30037100fpuf1.jpg

[heffe2001]

Once I got those woofers out of the cabinet, I noticed a bit of rust on the metal mesh cover, so I pulled that apart from the wooden front panel, and my brothers' going to and and repaint it for me (it's kind of a brownish now, but he's going to go with a satin-black that he uses on a good bit of his metalwork).  I also need to get some new speaker grill cloth to cover it (it looks absolutely horrible, 20 years of smoke, dust and beer, lol).  If I like the black on the grill cover, I may end up pulling the top cover off, and having the brown metal bits of that repainted as well (it could use it anyway, and there's a spot or 2 that could use a little re-work).

As I mentioned over at Klov, I'm not going to use the little amplifer I got earlier this week.  I bought a Clarion APX4360 (4 x 90w @ 4Ohm), run the new 4" speakers on the front 2 channels with the High-pass set to about 1500, and the woofers on the back 2 channels, with the low-pass filter set to 1500, which I'm hoping brings the sound volume and quality up a few notches...  I'm hopeful that the new amp will be in early next week so I can work on it over the holidays...  If it does, I may have this sucker all but finished by the 1st...  I definitely want to get it finished before we have our Christmas party next month, it'd be pretty cool to queue up a few xmas albums and let it roll...  The only issue I see at this point is powering the amp, it uses alot more power than the little cheapie I have hooked up now...

The only parts I've not tackled yet are the lighting, and the flip-book page motor.  Need to figure out a way to power the little DC motor, and it'd be really nice if the mechanism would work with JUST power (the rest of the controls for it are still there, so I'm hoping I can just power that, and it work).  I REALLY wish I had the New Orleans service manual, instead of just the manual for the old New York, especially since it's different from the York in that area...

As for the lighting, I was planning on pulling out at least one of the flourscent tubes (the one that lights the tracklists), and replace it with one of the GroovyGameGear LED bars, it should be the correct length, and should definitely put out enough light...  The large tube in the bottom I'm going to leave as-is, except switch out the old 240v ballast for a 120v, same for the other tube up top.

The crappy thing now is, after I've already sold the New York, gutted the New Orleans, and have everything almost ready to go, the wife tells me the look of the 'York was growing on her, and she'd rather have had me keep that one, lol....  (It has bubble tracks, a spinning CD in the middle, and generally looks neater).

[heffe2001]

Checked out the control board on the page flipper, traced the inputs to the main voltage regulator, and it converts to 12v, I connected it to the 12v out on a PC power supply, and it works, just like it did when it was connected to the rest of the jukebox.  Looks like it is going to be easier to get that working than I thought .

[heffe2001]

I've gotten the LED display working in LCD Smartie (right now it's showing my CPU usage on my main desktop, and it's working quite well).  Guess I'll start working on a serial plugin for the Jukebox plugin system, hopefully it won't be too difficult (I'm thinking I'll be able to write a little program to display whatever I want, and flash the brightness, but I may end up needing a hand getting it into a format that the juke programs can use).

[Space Fractal]

I'm looking into this project how it turned out after I with working with heffe2001 got his LED display work directly in BlitzMax and hence direct support in MultiFE in mostly the way the original jukebox have worked. MultiFE can also support various other display by using its external ini system. IT clearly MultiFE was renamed from MultiJuke (hehe), but is still no DWJukebox (which have its own input system which can been deficient from MultiFE).....

Sorry to hijack this tread, but as I wrote it was heavy tested by him, since I have not have a LCD display.

[heffe2001]

I think for my particular instance, MultiFE's jukebox module is a perfect fit for the jukebox software.  The LED display works perfectly (thanks again for going above and beyond on that one ), and the input system looks like it's going to fit the bill as well (0-9, and reset, as well as a couple other keys I'll add to the back).  Since this isn't a video jukebox, no display at all, I can turn off all the extra stuff that comes with a video system, and run it on a lesser-powered machine like the one above.  Now I just need my grill cloth, a 4" hole saw, and my 750w power supply and I'm in bid-ness .

[heffe2001]

I had been playing with a different mobo/drive combo for this machine (instead of the little HP above), and ran into a few issues with the OS load (Windows 2000 Workstation).  When I load MultiFE, it gives me a texturesysmem error (it's a Win2k directx thing, not a MultiFE thing).  The system I had decided to use at the time was a 2.53 P4, with about 768m ram, and a 1gb CF card on an IDE adapter for the drive (cut down on noise).  I had it working OK, but load times for the CF card were absolutely horrible with XP (2000 was decent though).  I could make it work, but it just took too long for the whole thing to get up to a usable state with XP, and with 2000, you have to OK an error every time you fire up the front-end.

I saw that Newegg had a decent price on one of the new Intel Atom 330 based boards (below), and I'd really like this thing to be a bit better on the power draw (the AMP is going to draw enough, I didn't want to watch my power meter climb like crazy), so I ordered it.  I also started thinking that I should be looking at something different for booting, since the CF I had was so slow, so I looked at (and ordered) a 4g 266x CF & a Sata adapter for it.  I also looked at Sata SSD's after seeing a few on an Ebay search for CF cards larger than 4g, and went over to Newegg to see what they had and the prices for a 8g Sata SSD.  I happened across a OCZ 30gb SATA SSD that had great performance (also below), and it was on sale to boot (20$ off, took the price from 69.99 to 49.99, which was about 35$ cheaper than the CF/Sata combo above), so of course, it's on the way now as well :p.  All I need to do is RMA the CF/Sata stuff, and I should be in good shape.  With 30g I can also keep the mp3's on the machine instead of using a network connection to pull them from my server.  Hopefully everything will be in this weekend, so I can get the machine set up, loaded and everything in the cabinet.  With the smaller ITX motherboard, I won't even need to have a frame to mount the board, I could even mount it to the inside panel of the Jukebox...  There's going to be a lot of dead space in this thing .

The really cool thing about the SSD is, it can't be hurt by the large speakers' magnetic field in the cabinet (which is why I didn't just use a 2.5" hard drive).  They'd be great for use with a Mame machine as well (get a couple and raid0 them, or just get a large one and run single).  Vibration also doesn't affect them either .


Links:

Intel Atom 330 Mobo:  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121359

OCZ 30g Sata SSD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227359

[Space Fractal]

Even it not a fault of MultiFE, which I nothing can due, IM pretty sure that error box can been bypassed by a AutoHotKey script.

The script can wait for MultiFE to start, wait few secs and then activate MulitFE window and  send a ENTER keystroke to bypass the error box (as I asume it actuelly is working, but in lastet version, OpenGL is not checked out in runtime second time, if does not exists, but not sure it there).

Code: [Select]

#NoTrayIcon
#SingleInstance force

WinWait, MultiFE
Sleep, 500
WinActivate, MultiFE
Send {ENTER}

Not tested, but you got the idea to bypass the problem, so you dosent need to get a new motherboard, if it actuelly did works fine.

I like to see the finished project, but I guess the jukebox itself is not changed much, only the techincal part?

[heffe2001]

From the outside of the jukebox, you'll not really be able to tell much has changed (I had the mesh grills repainted from a brownish to black, and replaced the tired old grill cloth underneath with fresh black).  The LED display looks almost identical, the control panel is also the same that was in the box initially.  Now, once you open the cabinet though, it's an entirely different box.  The only parts inside that are the same, are the button board assembly, and the assembly that shows the CD track lists.  That actually works as-is, if I send 12v down 2 pins.  Haven't tried it with the NEW power supply (the 60a single-rail 750 Corsair), but it should work fine.  As for the amplification, I have a Clarion APX4360  (4 channels by 90w at 4 ohm).  It's got a built in crossover, so I'll use 2 channels for the subs in the bottom (the factory 12" that came with the juke), and 2 channels for the 4" that go up in the top (I replaced these with 2 2-way Pyle car speakers).  I'm hoping the factory speakers are up to the task (they are rated at about 50w at 8 ohm, so should get around that from that amp).

I'm doing the new board more for the power-savings, and the fact that we ordered a few for work (same for the SSD), adn they always give me one of whatever toys we are playing with .  I just have to provide a bit more RAM for the box (I'd rather not run with a swap file at all), and will hopefully have the system up and running this weekend .  Everything looks like it's coming together, I just hope everything works ok .

[typethree]

Thanks for taking the time to write it.

[heffe2001]

I've got everything put together now, and it's working great (just need to tidy up a few loose ends, and stick a 2g stick in the machine so I can turn off the Swap file (I'm using the 30g SSD, and without too much optimizing, I can boot from a cold start, into windows in about 20-22 seconds at last count, that's including the time it takes to boot into MultiFE...).  Soon as I get everything neatened up, I'll see about some details on my build.  About the only thing I'd rather not do is remove the upper speakers, as it was a bear getting them in place, and the original holes widened (wish I'd have remembered my camera on that day, I'd have good documentation from that job).  I just used a Dremel to widen the holes from about 2 1/4 to roughly 3 1/4 (size of the 4" speaker fronts minus the spider), and fashioned some 1/4" ply to replace the old metal brackets.  Worked great, and you can't tell from the outside of the box the modification was even done.  The LED display turned out great as well...

[Kevin Mullins]

The LED display turned out great as well...

More info on that part .... 

[heffe2001]

I won't have much time this afternoon, but might have some to take some pictures (just forgive the messy wiring, haven't had time to clean it up properly).  Basically I'm using a SC4DLite 4 digit, 7 segment LED panel to replace the factory panel to show track/cd info (during entry, and while playing).  Space Fractal went above and beyond to add support for this in the newer builds of MultiFE, and it works perfectly (and looks almost spot-on to the factory display).  The SC4Dlite is a straight serial display, all you need to do is prepend the string you're sending with the character that represents the ID of the panel (it defaults to 255), and a lower case b, then  your numbers and it displays them.  All I need now is lighting in the box and it'll be complete (aside from the afore-mentioned wiring cleaning).  As soon as I get the video converted from my camera's native format, I'll post a short video of it working in the cabinet..



The promised footage (forgive the quality, I'm using my digital camera, works great as a camera, but so-so as a camcorder):

[Space Fractal]

Look like I could give the fast blinking after inserting the number a bit more, before showing the CD player info? elsewise it turned out great on that box and I hope I got all relative bugs fixed.

Happy Christmas from here.

[heffe2001]

Maybe one or two more flashes, but I definitely like where it's at now too.  Now I just need to make the final decision on what to put in it (I have room on the flipbook for like 56 CD's if I use the supplied inserts, 62 if I make special ones for 6 of those pages).  I've already got 50 loaded, but I'm still toying with moving stuff in and out of the system.  It's working perfectly though (and playing behind me as I type ).