Author Topic: The Buck Rogers Project (Read 11035 times)

Cyberflexx · « **on:** October 26, 2008, 01:45:25 pm »

I just picked up a Buck Rogers from a guy for $100 bucks. The cabinet is in awesome shape except the wood is getting brittle around the leg bolts. It's hidden behind the legs, so no biggy. The back glass has some flaking to it. I will want that repaired or replaced after I get it working.

Things to do and get

* Clean the cabinet, inside and out and wax and polish the playfield
* Check out all moving parts for corrision/rust
* I need to get 2 balls but I dont know what size.
* New Rubber kit - On Order
* I need a new plunger assembly as the one I have is totally gone. - Looking for one now
* a new lock for the head
* repin the molex connectors

I do know the unit will power the lights when it is turned on
but the game does not play.

I havent had a chance to do anything else with it, as I just got it. This is my very 1st pinball machine and the 1st time ever, working on one.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated

Shardian, I'm calling you out! Didnt you tell me that you were a veteran with a gottlieb system 1 pin? LOL!!! P.S. I left you a voice mail last night.

Thanks guys!

Ken Layton · « **Reply #1 on:** October 26, 2008, 02:12:42 pm »

Pinball itself is 1-1/16" diameter.

Pinball Resource should have all the parts you need including a complete ball shooter assembly.

shardian · « **Reply #2 on:** October 27, 2008, 10:39:46 am »

I've mentioned some of this in email, but I'll rehash here for the forums sake.

Next time we head down to Huntington, I'll stop by and look at it. Until then, your DMM is your best friend. Go thru the power supply tests in the pinrepair guide.

The lights coming on don't have anything to do with the boards. The GI lighting comes direct from the big transformer. Since you have absolutely zero booting action, odds are high there is a problem with the power supply.

Check your fuses, check the voltages at the power supply connectors, check the connector between the power supply and CPU, check the edge traces on the pcu for that connector.

The guide on these machines is really well laid out, and there is a whole section on modifications you should do before powering on.

And the most important thing to remember: if you do get booting action, pay close attention for locked on coils. If you see any, shut the machine down quickly.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #3 on:** October 27, 2008, 11:07:04 am »

Thanks.. Do you have a link to that guide? I'll print her out =)

Thanks for all the information.

If you head to Huntington, give me a call and let me know what time you will be there.
My wife is going out of town for a few days in November. I'll call you when I am heading your way and swing by to see your machines.

The 1st thing I want to do is clean the legs really good. This will be going in my house as part of my family arcade and I dont want alot of dirty falling off in the floor and just looking disgusting. I am also doing a Galaga restore ( see my thread under restorations for that)

I might finish my Galaga before I start on this pinball machine as the Galaga is not in that bad of shape, just a board problem.

I cant find the plunger assembly on pbresource.com maybe i over looked it, but i need a complete kit since mine is non existant.

shardian · « **Reply #4 on:** October 27, 2008, 11:24:40 am »

Your best bet is to just call Steve at pbresource. His website leaves a bit to be desired, and you have to call him anyways to order. If you tell him what you need, he'll tell you if he has it.

Its definitely a good idea to clean up the legs since they are already off the machine. Do you have a pic of them? Mine are too far gone with pitted rust damage, so I have to strip/paint them. If you just have surface rust, wadding or buffing will take care of that.

StephenH · « **Reply #5 on:** October 27, 2008, 03:18:00 pm »

Here is the PinRepair guide for System 1:

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/index.htm

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #6 on:** October 28, 2008, 08:30:57 am »

Thanks for the info.. You guys rock

I put the legs on it and opened the playfield and the parts look very clean and the flipper assemblys look almost new. I think someone was in the process of restoring it when I bought it, except the playfield being very dirty. The audio amp fuse is blown, the slam switch was stuck closed.

Now with the audio amp fuse blown and the slam switch closed, will this cause the machine only to have the Lights on the playfield and backglass? I'm not sure how smart the logic boards are to know to turn off every PCB if one fails.

The legs are a not too dirty, showing a few rust places. what is the best way to clean up the legs? I was thinking of sanding and painting them black to match the cabinet. What do you think?

shardian · « **Reply #7 on:** October 28, 2008, 08:37:49 am »

The slam switch will stop the CPU from booting, but will display all zeros on the displays. The guide shows you how to bypass the slam switch on the CPU. When you do the jump wire shown in the guide pic, it renders the cabinet slam switches useless.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #8 on:** October 28, 2008, 05:05:27 pm »

I see this mod.

Remove the original CPU board Battery.
If running with an original Gottlieb CPU board, the original memory backup battery MUST be removed (and discarded). System1 pinballs will run fine with a remote "AA" battery pack to maintain credits and high scores. Make sure to use a 1N4004 blocking diode with the "AA" battery pack so the CPU board does not try and recharge the "AA" batteries.

If I put rechargeable AA cells, 2300mah do I still need to put in the 1n4004 diode?

Thanks

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #9 on:** October 28, 2008, 10:40:02 pm »

I checked my system 1 board. Its fried for sure.. one IC in the lower left corner is cracked and the diodes and stuff are charged looking.

I have some pictures of my cabinet and playfield that I will have to upload tomorrow.. I left my cellphone usb cable at work..

Anyone got a cheap, working system 1 board they want to part with?

shardian · « **Reply #10 on:** October 29, 2008, 08:24:42 am »

Post a pic of the issue on your board.

I just got a whole box of boards, but I haven't been able to test them yet. I might also have a game prom for yours, but I'll have to recheck the lettering schematics to make sure.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #11 on:** October 29, 2008, 10:50:45 am »

Here is the burnt place on the board..

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #12 on:** October 29, 2008, 10:55:27 am »

Here are some pictures, Nevermind the messy garage..

Not to shabby for 100 bucks...

The cabinet looks good over all, the playfield isnt bad either. The head will need some black touch up and the black glass will need repaired.

What is the best way to repair graphics on a backglass?

Let me know what you all think

And yes.. thats a Galaga in one of the pictures and a 1/5 scale 23cc RC buggy in one of the other pics

shardian · « **Reply #13 on:** October 29, 2008, 10:57:51 am »

Sweet! That is what happens when a coil or GI light gets shorted to a switch. Your board has a remote possibility of being repaired. Sometimes that 7405 chip can be a sacrificial lamb and save the switch matrix spider chip (but probably not). Either way, you would need a 7405 replacement, and maybe repair some traces in that area. It is worth a shot, if only for the practice.

Mauzy · « **Reply #14 on:** October 29, 2008, 07:58:28 pm »

Quote from: Cyberflexx on October 29, 2008, 10:50:45 am

Here is the burnt place on the board..

My guess as to your problems? That IC may be bad...

But seriously, great deal!

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #15 on:** October 30, 2008, 12:34:30 am »

hehehe nahhh...

I did do some tinkering around this evening with my MPU board. I took off the battery and cleaned the pcb with white vinegar then rinsed with water. I cleaned up the corrision with a old toothbrush and the traces look good, most of the diodes and caps look OK, a few didnt clean up well and only thing I need to do now is check the components of the burnt area and replace that IC. Luckily my boss is good at board level work, that's what he studied at Devry.

I measured the voltage on the big cap that is recommended to be replaced. It reads 15.60 volts. I did not get to measure the coils or anything but... here is some good news. as I was messing with the attraction lights and moving around bulbs I heard some tones come from the speaker. It happens every 3-5 minutes. It sounds sort of like an attraction tone. This tells me my audio board should be fine. Also when I turn it on, the mechs behind the coin door make a click sound..

I guess some of that is good news..

shardian · « **Reply #16 on:** October 30, 2008, 08:38:44 am »

The coin door sound is just the lockout coil energizing.

Is the display fuse blown?

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #17 on:** October 30, 2008, 11:39:42 am »

The only fuse that I see that is blown is the one labeled Audio its the 1st fuse on the right in the row of fuses on the power board in the bottom of the cabinet. But, last night I heard tone sounds coming from the speaker.

shardian · « **Reply #18 on:** October 30, 2008, 11:52:00 am »

Your board is labeled wrong. The first on the right is a 1/4 amp slo blo for the displays.

shardian · « **Reply #19 on:** October 30, 2008, 11:54:23 am »

Hmmm, that is disturbing the the labels are f'ed up. I think it would be best at this point if you got your manual, and verified some wiring. The manual has wiring diagrams, and it will be as easy as 'follow the red colored wire'.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #20 on:** October 30, 2008, 12:04:18 pm »

I dont have a manual for the Buck Rogers machine. Is there one online in PDF or something?

Thats very interesting. If what you are saying is true, then why would that display fuse blow? When the main board poped?

shardian · « **Reply #21 on:** October 30, 2008, 01:57:45 pm »

My fuse kept popping when I had a bad board in. With a good board, the displays work fine. I am not sure of the logic behind it. Maybe the bad board was just overfeeding the display IC's?

It wouldn't take much with a 1/4 amp fuse.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #22 on:** October 30, 2008, 02:15:58 pm »

Here is the Driver Board and Power board..

Looks like my driver board has a diode mod on it..

shardian · « **Reply #23 on:** October 30, 2008, 02:51:08 pm »

They are less trouble than System 80's! True, it is a PITA to get them running, but once running and modified, they can be about the most reliable pins on earth.

ClubNinja · « **Reply #24 on:** October 30, 2008, 02:55:46 pm »

Quote from: pinballjim on October 30, 2008, 02:23:58 pm

Sometimes I wish we could just bury all the System 1s in a landfill. $:-\$

You'd be dumping some great playing games, too. Count-Down and Joker Poker are both well above average, and Genie is fantastic.

shardian · « **Reply #25 on:** October 30, 2008, 03:01:20 pm »

There are some junker system 1's, but there are some really good ones in there. Every since I saw the Asteroid Annie in Tim Arnolds sys. 1 supershow, I have wanted one. I love the art on that game.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #26 on:** October 30, 2008, 04:53:51 pm »

I dont care what kind of pinball it is, as long as I have one.

Go easy on me, this is my 1st one and 1st time working on one.

Thanks everyone for your help in getting this pin up and going.

I need it working soon and put in my game room area so I can pick up another pin ( working) that needs cleaned up and artwork re-done ( from what I was told) for FREE. I dont know what it is yet, all I know is that she has been sitting in storage for a very long time. the guy who owns it is in his mid 50s now and they had it in their family room when he was in his teens. Never know what kind it is... I can't wait.. WOO HOO!!

shardian · « **Reply #27 on:** October 31, 2008, 08:46:11 am »

You know, that Buck Rogers really is gonna be a pain to fix. You might as well just give it to me since you're getting another one.

With your schedule, don't plan on getting this one fixed any time soon. The only way you will get it up and running soon would be to pin connectors and order a Pascal X-4 board. If you really are getting another fully working, you are much better of getting it in the gameroom first.

shardian · « **Reply #28 on:** October 31, 2008, 11:07:30 am »

Have you looked at the connectors yet? I haven't heard anything about them.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #29 on:** October 31, 2008, 02:36:21 pm »

The pins and connectors look really good and intact. I didnt spend alot of time looking at them but fom what i saw, the look to be OK.

I might just order the wiring kits already made. I seen them on a website earlier this week. I think they were 24 bucks already made..

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #30 on:** November 01, 2008, 12:25:50 am »

I checked all my coils today and the are all above the 2ohms like what I found in the troubleshooting guide. From what I read, this tells me that my driver board is OK.

I need to test the main power transformers, but there are so many connections and I am not sure how to test those.. I do know that the outlet plug works since i plugged the shop light into it.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #31 on:** November 01, 2008, 11:59:32 pm »

Repair Update:

I got my new ( used) ball shooter assembly today and just now got it installed.

Not a major update, but i'm getting closer to being able to play it..

Now I need some new balls.. ( that's what she said. LOL!) mine are rusty..

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #32 on:** November 05, 2008, 09:57:02 am »

I replaced the 7405 IC that was fried and also did the battery pack mod. I ordered a new MPU/Driver board cable since mine needed re-pinned and I really didnt feel like ordering the parts and making one myself. Heck it was only $25 bucks shipped.

I also noticed that my knocker coil was reading .9 ohms so this is bad and might be why the 7405 blew in the 1st place ( before i owned the machine) I just cut the wire off of it for now until i can get the system 1 board working.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #33 on:** November 06, 2008, 03:17:37 pm »

My score displays are known working now. I need to clean the connections but I was able to get 77777 across the displays. Please note I am didnt have the driver board hooked up and i am using a non working system 1 board. I was just happy that I didnt have to buy knew score displays.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #34 on:** November 08, 2008, 11:58:22 am »

i got my new cpu/driver cable in the mail this morning. I plugged it into the driver board and the cpu board and i turned on the machine. I heard a click sound and then some start up tones that I never heard before. This is good news. I now need to finish fixing my CPU board since the 7405 int he lower left is still giving me fits..

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #35 on:** November 08, 2008, 05:17:34 pm »

Looks like the only connector that I need to repin is the A1J7 connector. I'll see if I can order the connector and pins next week.

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #36 on:** November 16, 2008, 11:54:10 pm »

I had to stop working on my Buck Rogers for a little bit. we have had to water leaks in 2 weeks at my house in my family room. Last Sunday, my wife heard water dripping, I ran downstairs and the glass table was soaked, ceiling fan had water running out of it and the carpet was soaked. Thank goodness it didnt get the piano or my bigscreen/home theater stuff. Then yesterday, when i was downstairs with a contractor, we noticed that the floor was wet in another area and the water had leaked from the main shutoff valve from where i had turned the water off to repair the 1st leak. This leak was in a closet that goes underneath our stairs and in a little storage area in the back of the closet that you have to crawl to get into. the plywood floor was soaked, plywall wall section was soaked at the bottom along with the carpet that is in the closet was soaked and all of our christmas decorations that were not in plastic storage boxes, were soaked. We fixed the valve that day and I ripped out all of that plywood last night and we had a dehumidifier running to help pull out the moisture.

Just a little setback, then this weekend we are going on vacation for a few days so i'm sure i'll get back working on them in a couple weeks. I just hate to see how much new carpet is going to cost for the whole entire family room..

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #37 on:** March 12, 2009, 03:26:03 pm »

Back to work on this project....

Shardian and I went together and bought the Pascal Px-1 boards. I dont have mine yet, as they are in his posession at the moment. I got all new pins to start re-doing the connectors.

I have found a backglass, finally and waiting on the guy to check it out for me before I pay for it. I also found a clean back arch since mine was in bad shape, I have a box of NOS and used displays I purchased, just incase i need them. This project has been slow getting started..

I also need a new or used gottlieb shooter assembly ( but this is for another pin)

shardian · « **Reply #38 on:** March 12, 2009, 03:39:43 pm »

You can have your Pi-1 board...for One MIIILLLIIIOOOONNN DOLLARS!!

To save money, you could just spray the back arch black. It wouldn't look out of place at all. Oh, and don't use any chemicals when cleaning ANY inkstamped part on that game. A rag and spit was enough to take off apron ink!

Cyberflexx · « **Reply #39 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:45:36 am »

I got my board, saturday evening from shardian and borrowed his crimper tool. I did not have a chance to work on the connectors yesterday. I am going to try to make this a priority for this week. I am dying to get the machine powered up and working correctly.


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news