Author Topic: WG K7000 series (now Wei-Ya 826HR) - replaced width adjustment cap, issues... (Read 25852 times)

grantspain · « **Reply #80 on:** October 10, 2008, 07:09:20 pm »

you can't polish a turd mate

Numbski · « **Reply #81 on:** October 10, 2008, 07:28:01 pm »

Yeah well - that's 2 chassis' I've gone through with no luck. There comes a point when you start to think nothing is going to work.

I'll admit that I've screwed things up these last two times, but still - you'd expect maybe I'd catch a break somewhere along the line. :\

Numbski · « **Reply #82 on:** October 10, 2008, 07:31:12 pm »

Since we're on the topic of polishing turds (yuck)....

Let's say I got a refund on this chassis. Given that I have a 25 inch tube, and that it has a pretty nasty scratch on the front of it - is there a chassis that is known to be of solid quality I could get to go with this, or am I pretty much SOL unless I bought a new tube too? I'm trying to avoid having to pay shipping on a tube.

grantspain · « **Reply #83 on:** October 10, 2008, 07:50:06 pm »

tbh i think you have been unlucky with this particular chassis,get the company to swap it
i bet the 826 works with a 25" tube just fine-maybe your chassis had a fault from the start

you gotta give the fella a chance

Numbski · « **Reply #84 on:** October 10, 2008, 11:38:06 pm »

Why don't I complicate this while I'm at it?

I just got offered a 27" television that "won't turn on" tonight. For free. Hmm...

grantspain · « **Reply #85 on:** October 11, 2008, 10:15:21 am »

if the tv fits in your cab then bingo,you need a multimeter to make some basic checks but you should be able to come up with a chassis that fits

Numbski · « **Reply #86 on:** October 11, 2008, 12:18:45 pm »

Well, I'll be picking it up this afternoon. Here's to hoping.

The only thing I'm concerned about is the frame that holds the tube. I don't know if I have to mod the one I have, or if there will be something similar in the TV I can scavenge or what. Lots and lots of questions.

Presuming this works, then I'm going to have a K7000 tube and chassis just sitting here. :\

Ken Layton · « **Reply #87 on:** October 12, 2008, 12:12:16 am »

If the tube and yoke of the tv set meet the correct specifications of the Wei-Ya chassis, you could "build" a monitor by using the tube & yoke from the tv, the Wei-ya chassis, and use the frame from the Wells-Gardner.

Numbski · « **Reply #88 on:** October 12, 2008, 03:00:58 pm »

Okay, this is a new 27" RCA tube. The yoke wires are Yellow and Green (Vertical?) + Brown and Red (Horizontal?)

Based on my measurements, I'm getting 8 Ohms across Vertical, and 1.3 Ohms across Horizontal. If I'm reading things properly then URL (http://www.genao.com/datatech/monitor.html):

"Measure the vertical ohms, it should be 6 ohms to 12 ohms. Provide the following information :

Note: if the horizontal ohms is less than 1.5 ohms , take a 5 to 10 watt 1 ohms resistor and add it in series to the circuit to increase the ohms ...."

So I need to trace the Brown and Red wires back to the circuit board and jump the resistor between the red and brown? Or do I put it inline to red or brown? (ie, cut the red wire, and put the resistor in between the severed sides of the red)

The next statement he makes bothers me:

"All 25 inch or bigger CRT's are 10 pin connector. "

Both my 25 inch and 27 inch tubes are 8-pin connectors.

Finally, on my 25 inch tube, I have 1.8 Ohms horizontal, 11 Ohms vertical.

In summary:

Old Tube:
25 Inches, 8 pins, Horizontal 1.8 Ohms, Vertical 11 Ohms

New Tube:
27 Inches, 8 pins, Horizontal 1.3 Ohms, Vertical 8 Ohms

So the only thing I'm missing is a resistor and how I install that resistor, then we should be good for a test drive?

Numbski · « **Reply #89 on:** October 12, 2008, 03:10:40 pm »

Here's some shots of the new tube:

Ken Layton · « **Reply #90 on:** October 12, 2008, 03:42:29 pm »

Your new tube and the old tube are considered ten pins. I looked up your new tube and it's ten pins.

The pair of yoke wires that shows the lowest resistance is always the horizontal section. The vertical section will always read higher resistance than the horizontal section.

The yoke on the 27" tube will read less resistance than the old yoke because the yoke has to work harder to deflect inside a 27" tube than a 25" tube.

You don't need to mess with installing a resistor on the circuit board. Simply cut the middle of one of the horizontal wires and solder it in series.

Numbski · « **Reply #91 on:** October 12, 2008, 03:45:39 pm »

That answered my question. Thanks!

Numbski · « **Reply #92 on:** October 12, 2008, 04:55:28 pm »

Heh - I don't suppose you guys know where I can hunt down a 27" monitor frame? I might be able to widen my 25" frame, but it's going to be too short not matter what I do.

Numbski · « **Reply #93 on:** October 12, 2008, 07:07:53 pm »

Alright, I did install the resistor behind the yoke connector, that way there's no strain on the yoke plug cable. The horizontal now reads 2.3 Ohms.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #94 on:** October 12, 2008, 07:15:49 pm »

Make sure the resistor's leads cannot accidently come into contact with any other electrical parts that it shouldn't.

Here is a way to widen the monitor frame. Cut a piece of wood to fit between the two outside frames.

Numbski · « **Reply #95 on:** October 12, 2008, 08:49:34 pm »

It's not the width I'm concerned about - it's the height. :\

I'm way ahead of you on the resistor. These were taken before I've had the chance to pull out the heat gun on the shrink sleeve. I basically just cut down a small piece of perfboard, zip strapped it to a plastic strain relief, shrink sleeve over any exposed wiring, and hot glue over any exposed solder on the perfboard.

Numbski · « **Reply #96 on:** October 12, 2008, 08:59:25 pm »

Yeah - i just pulled my glass and bezel - the 25" mounting braces are split at ~16.5" on center, and the new one's mounting braces are vertically split ~18.5" on center. The existing braces are 2 inches too short. I can replace the wood and make it wide enough, but not tall enough.

Numbski · « **Reply #97 on:** October 13, 2008, 07:18:09 pm »

Finally fired this new tube up tonight.

Nice crisp colors - with refresh lines, wavy picture, and horizontally overscanned image. In other words, same issue. So....this chassis is going back. I got permission to exchange it, and that's what I'm going to do. In the meantime I can work on how I'm going to get this thing into my cabinet. Turns out it's going to be too deep to close the back as-is, so several modifications would be in order. I may just set the newly modified tube aside for now until the new chassis shows up, then worry about it then.

Numbski · « **Reply #98 on:** October 13, 2008, 09:57:15 pm »

OW!

I discharged that tube, then waited, discharged it again, etc. 15 times. I finally moved the thing.

Shocked me in the stomach. OUCH. That's just not fair.

grantspain · « **Reply #99 on:** October 14, 2008, 01:09:07 am »

Quote from: Numbski on October 13, 2008, 09:57:15 pm

OW!

I discharged that tube, then waited, discharged it again, etc. 15 times. I finally moved the thing.

Shocked me in the stomach. OUCH. That's just not fair.

did not discharge it then

Numbski · « **Reply #100 on:** October 14, 2008, 06:56:31 am »

It sparked the 15 times I did it. I may wind up buying a HV Probe out of sheer paranoia after that. DO NOT WANT.

grantspain · « **Reply #101 on:** October 14, 2008, 10:47:57 am »

you must be discharging incorrectly,most the time i don´t bother unless its a really old chassis like a microvitec
you need an insulated long flat screwdriver and a croc lead-connect one croc clip to the dag earth of the tube(the earth braid that goes across the back of the tube) then connect the other croc clip onto the metal shaft of the screwdriver and then insert under the anode cap until it makes contact with the internal u-clip whilst only holding the insulated handle of the driver(if you are a big girl you could always wear some rubber gloves)
obviously don´t do this with the power applied

that is what you hair will look like if you try it with the power applied

gokun · « **Reply #102 on:** October 14, 2008, 11:15:34 am »

I can take you a pic of my discharge tool if you want

Numbski · « **Reply #103 on:** October 15, 2008, 08:39:16 am »

Nah - I'm breaking out the heavy artillery next time. I had already bought a super-insulated *BIG* screwdriver, and had copper tied to the ground on my nearest power outlet. Next time I'm bringing in my jumper cables from the truck, clamping one end to the screwdriver, and the other to my water pipes. If that doesn't do it, I'm just screwed (if you couldn't figure that out already from the rest of this thread!)

Now - couple of thoughts.

1. It is impressively difficult to find an empty 27" frame. I've called several repair shops, one that says they tossed one in the trash on Friday! (doh!) - all of which say they'll call me if they have another one come though (but I'm not holding my breath). Modding my 25" chassis seems less and less like a plausible option, and the fact remains that other than a scratch in the front of the tube, there's nothing wrong with my 25". Which brings me to...

2. The original chassis. I'm looking at it, and it looks like there's a jumper on that board. I need to drop an e-mail to the guy that "repaired" the board last time. I have a sinking suspicion that he changed something. If he did, I need to know what and undo it, if for no other reason but to let it go on Craigslist to the next guy that needs a monitor. I feel awful trashing something that clearly has the potential to work just fine, and I'm just too inept to get straight.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #104 on:** October 15, 2008, 11:53:35 am »

If you're talking about the original k7000 chassis, there is a black jumper, a capacitor or two, and sometimes a resistor soldered to the foil side of the main board. Parts of Wells-Gardner's undocumented production improvements. Never remove those parts.

Numbski · « **Reply #105 on:** October 15, 2008, 03:05:05 pm »

Not arguing, not contradicting - but I have to ask:

Why put a jumper on a board that is never intended to have but one setting? Isn't that the point - to have more than one setting?

Ken Layton · « **Reply #106 on:** October 15, 2008, 05:39:52 pm »

The black jumper wire on the foil side of the k7000 main board corrects a ground problem in the layout of the foil. Wells discovered this after the boards went into production.

Numbski · « **Reply #107 on:** October 15, 2008, 07:40:31 pm »

Ah ha. So it's a jumper between "working" and "not-so-much working". I suppose that's two settings.

Numbski · « **Reply #108 on:** October 23, 2008, 09:46:23 am »

Just a short update here. The day after my last post, I shipped my Wei-Ya chassis back to the seller. They received it last friday, but as of Tuesday I hadn't heard anything. I wrote them, and they behaved as though they didn't know anything about it (despite giving me the address to ship to, I have delivery confirmation and tracking number that says it got there), and haven't heard anything again since wednesday. This is starting to look very bad for me. Again.

grantspain · « **Reply #109 on:** October 23, 2008, 07:37:55 pm »

perhaps they are trying to work out why so many component values have changed in the post

Numbski · « **Reply #110 on:** October 23, 2008, 08:14:19 pm »

Oh hush. Everything was stock that I sent back. No - not acknowledging something that was signed for and arrived there a week ago has me more than a little worried. :\

Numbski · « **Reply #111 on:** October 27, 2008, 02:03:50 pm »

Just a quick update again. They acknowledged having my chassis, but no word on actually shipping me a replacement. :\

grantspain · « **Reply #112 on:** October 27, 2008, 02:18:23 pm »

perhaps they are repairing the chassis you sent

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #113 on:** October 27, 2008, 04:23:26 pm »

wow...

an epic journey to replair a monitor... lol

FWIW, I bought an Wei-Ya 826HR for my 25" WG in a dedicated Mortal Kombat, and it worked perfectly out of the box. Sounds like their quality is a crap-shoot, though.

Numbski · « **Reply #114 on:** October 28, 2008, 08:39:59 pm »

I got this from the seller today:

"I have checked and tested the chassis, we replaced a transistor on the power supply ( maybe it was the reason)
We have pre-adjusted every potentiometer to get the right picture on the CRT ( color, Brightness, v-size, focus, etc, etc) . Maybe you need to re-adjust it for your CRT.

I have shipped the chassis out today via UPS ground.
Please let me know as soon you receive and install it."

Oops.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #115 on:** October 28, 2008, 09:50:05 pm »

phew.... just finished reading through this one.

Numbski · « **Reply #116 on:** October 31, 2008, 09:54:09 pm »

Well, the chassis got here. Again.

Hook it all up, hooked the power up via the transformer - double and triple checked all of my connections, said a small prayer, turned it on...

Neck doesn't glow.

I. Cannot. Believe. This.

I can see where they replaced the transistor that's up against the metal shield connected to the flyback. It *looks* like it's properly insulated, but knowing my luck it isn't, and I just fried it. Again.

Numbski · « **Reply #117 on:** October 31, 2008, 10:47:40 pm »

Nevermind. For the first time in who knows how long, the chassis seems to be okay. I say seems, because I hooked a computer up long enough to get video. Somehow, mysteriously my Jamma wiring is now hosed. No arcade boards will fire up, so I can't get a feel for the screen's geometry to say 100% certain that it's good. Man...

grantspain · « **Reply #118 on:** November 01, 2008, 02:28:36 pm »

meter jamma pin1 and 3 for +5v

Numbski · « **Reply #119 on:** November 03, 2008, 07:43:26 am »

Okay, sorry for the slow response.

1 and 3 I get nothing. 2 and 3 I get +5 volts. That's because I traced the ground wire from pins 1 and A, and they run to the connector for the coin door, which is currently not installed in the cabinet. I don't think that's the problem, but I can jump those two to ground if it makes thing more clear.


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