Someone call the cops! I stole a Jukebox!! MAGNETS??? [03.05.2009]

[javeryh]

Wow - cool.  I've never seen one of those things before.  I assume it's a drill bit and not a router bit, right?  I'm going to see if I can pick one of those things up...   

[mountain]

Yes, it's a drill bit

[javeryh]

Here's where it starts to get fun (sort of - more on that in a bit).  Once the Griffin Powermate arrived I was able to take the measurement of the diameter of the knob [1-11/16"] and make sure the openings for the marquee, monitor and speakers were laid out properly.

This part of the project is very very complicated. Not only do I have to cut out the openings but after I use the template to cut the 1/8" black plexiglass (which will be the front face of the jukebox), I have to remove additional material behind the openings in order for the monitor, marquee and speakers to fit. This is going to be especially tricky for the monitor because the mounting brackets are at a different height so I'll have to set the depth of my router to be as precise as possible.

The first section to cut out must be the curved marquee opening. In order to cut out the curves perfectly you need a pivot point for the circle cutting jig to turn on. If you cut out the monitor opening first there won't be any place for the pivot point!

In order to cut this opening accurately, I used my router, a 1/2" dado bit, a straight edge and my circle jig. It was quite complicated to set everything up and I had to make 4 passes with the dado bit removing about 1/8" at a time to cut through the 1/2" MDF.



I really like working out in the garage with the radio on or whatever (although the Mets bullpen makes me mental) but I was at the end of my rope when I was cutting this out.  I messed this up on my first try - I couldn't seem to control the router properly. I lost about 4 hours worth of work that I had to make up just to get it to this point.
 
Here is what the panel looks like attached to shell. Pretty cool!





Next up is the other openings and cutting everything to size.   

[mountain]

Looking real good javeryh.

Make sure that you write down the distance between your two center points as well as each radius. It will come in handy when you go to make the jig for the marquee plexiglass as well as the artwork. 

[DaOld Man]

Great job so far Javeryh!
Only problem I see is that there are no pictures with Bella's Arcade in the background!

[javeryh]

Looking real good javeryh.

Make sure that you write down the distance between your two center points as well as each radius. It will come in handy when you go to make the jig for the marquee plexiglass as well as the artwork. 

That's a great idea.  I've already had to remeasure those distances for various reasons.  I'm a little nervous about the marquee art lining up perfectly but I think I'll be OK as long as I don't have a background that follows the curves exactly.  I have NO IDEA what I'm going to do for artwork or a name.   I've been kicking around a few ideas but nothing has stuck so far.  My favorite band is Pearl Jam so I was thinking about a subtle reference:

- Brain of J (this is the name of a Pearl Jam song and since my name is James and this thing will be a brain of sorts it kind of works)

- Play C3 (another Pearl Jam reference from the song 'Insignificance')

- Jack's Jukebox (my son's name)

- Partially Automated Music Playing Device (from the definition of 'Jukebox')

- Dancing Days (I love Zeppelin too )

Or I may just do the neon like you did since it looks great and I'm incapable of independent thought... HELP!!! 

Great job so far Javeryh!
Only problem I see is that there are no pictures with Bella's Arcade in the background!

heh, yeah - I'm still working on convincing the wife to bring it up from the basement.    I think it would look great in the TV room (or her bedroom which is where I initially envisioned it) but our house is small and space is tight.  One of these days!   

[Franco B]

Good work buddy, looking great!

I'm kinda in a similar boat to you as regards to covering the juke in laminate etc. I haven't found anywhere that will sell me a small piece of pink laminate which isn't suprising really. I also have some tight curves on my juke and I think I would struggle to bend and bond the laminate. I did think about painting the juke (and there is only one method I would follow ) but I have decided that I am going to use some polycarb laminate (like a CP overlay). It should be tough enough to protect the juke whilst being pliable enough to go round the tight radii. Also as its, in effect, a CPO I will be able to get it printed in any pink/design I want

Do you know what juke software you are going to use?

[javeryh]

Good work buddy, looking great!

I'm kinda in a similar boat to you as regards to covering the juke in laminate etc. I haven't found anywhere that will sell me a small piece of pink laminate which isn't suprising really. I also have some tight curves on my juke and I think I would struggle to bend and bond the laminate. I did think about painting the juke (and there is only one method I would follow ) but I have decided that I am going to use some polycarb laminate (like a CP overlay). It should be tough enough to protect the juke whilst being pliable enough to go round the tight radii. Also as its, in effect, a CPO I will be able to get it printed in any pink/design I want

Do you know what juke software you are going to use?

Thanks Franco!  Sourcing the laminate has been tough.  I can place an order at Home Depot but it is going to be expensive.  I don't know what they have available over in the UK.  I thought about using some CPO overlay material too but I also need a fairly rigid piece for the back panel.  I think you can use a heat gun on the regular laminate to go around a tight curve.  I have to order a 4'x8' sheet since the piece I need is just shy of 5'.

As for juke software, I'm going to try Xlobby.  I really like the look of it.  I'm open to anything though I suppose.  I still have to buy the computer and set everything up but there's no rush since the front panel/screen mount and the back panel/port mount are taking FOREVER.

[DaOld Man]

I looked at some laminate at lowes last night. They will have to order the black. And it is expensive. Now I know why counter tops are so high.
I got a small rectangle sample. Wilsonart 1595-60 Black. It feels very stiff, and Im worried about making the bend around the top. The lady at Lowes said she didnt think it would be a problem, but I dont put a lot of faith in the workers there. (My apologies to anyone on here who works there.)
I sent mountain a PM for his advice.
On Stevie's Jukebox, I just painted the hardwood "skin". But I think the laminate will be much cooler.

[javeryh]

DaOld Man - You have to make sure you get VERTICAL grade laminate.  Try looking at Formica.com - Home Depot is a distributor.  I am going to order a sheet of 20 grade "909 Black" with a Matte finish.  I don't know the cost yet but I might tonight - I'm going to stop at Home Depot on the way home from work.  The sample you most likely got was the horizontal grade stuff which probably won't bend like you want it to.

[DaOld Man]

Hmm, ok, I didnt see any reference at Lowes to vertical or horizontal. I will check Home Depot.
Thanks Javeryh.

[mountain]

You guys will have more luck calling local distributors, cabinet makers, kitchen remodelers etc. when it comes to finding the vertical grade stuff.

The coin door panel on my first cabinet was wrapped with the thicker horizontal grade. The radius was around 3 1/2". If all you can find is the horizontal stuff, it will bend. Hell, it's more flexible than the 1/8" MDF

[javeryh]

Thanks - that's good to know.  I inspected a sheet of the horizontal laminate at Home Depot last week but I wasn't 100% convinced it would bend (they didn't carry black though so I would still have to place a special order).  It seemed like it would but I won't know unless I try.  I'm debating now whether to get the horizontal stuff since the difference in thickness is 0.3mm - that's practically nothing!  I also need some for the back panel and the thicker stuff would work nicer there I think.  Decisions decisions....   

[leapinlew]

Thanks - that's good to know.  I inspected a sheet of the horizontal laminate at Home Depot last week but I wasn't 100% convinced it would bend (they didn't carry black though so I would still have to place a special order).  It seemed like it would but I won't know unless I try.  I'm debating now whether to get the horizontal stuff since the difference in thickness is 0.3mm - that's practically nothing!  I also need some for the back panel and the thicker stuff would work nicer there I think.  Decisions decisions....   

How much are they charging for the vertical stuff? I have 1/16th, and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't use it to bend around that juke. I'd probably use the parts express stuff. Did Mountain say it would work? I read through here, but I don't remember him saying anything about it.

[mountain]

Thanks - that's good to know.  I inspected a sheet of the horizontal laminate at Home Depot last week but I wasn't 100% convinced it would bend (they didn't carry black though so I would still have to place a special order).  It seemed like it would but I won't know unless I try.  I'm debating now whether to get the horizontal stuff since the difference in thickness is 0.3mm - that's practically nothing!  I also need some for the back panel and the thicker stuff would work nicer there I think.  Decisions decisions....  

How much are they charging for the vertical stuff? I have 1/16th, and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't use it to bend around that juke. I'd probably use the parts express stuff. Did Mountain say it would work? I read through here, but I don't remember him saying anything about it.

Lew,
1/16" seams a bit thick, even for horizontal grade.  I think it is less than that. The point I was trying to make in my last post is that I was able to bend horizontal grade laminate around a 3.5" radius on my coin door panel. Considering that the coin door panel was about 35" in length, bending it around an 8" radius that is only 12" in length shouldn't be a problem. I know for a fact that horizontal grade laminate is more plyable than 1/8" MDF, it will work.

[leapinlew]

Thanks - that's good to know.  I inspected a sheet of the horizontal laminate at Home Depot last week but I wasn't 100% convinced it would bend (they didn't carry black though so I would still have to place a special order).  It seemed like it would but I won't know unless I try.  I'm debating now whether to get the horizontal stuff since the difference in thickness is 0.3mm - that's practically nothing!  I also need some for the back panel and the thicker stuff would work nicer there I think.  Decisions decisions....   

How much are they charging for the vertical stuff? I have 1/16th, and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't use it to bend around that juke. I'd probably use the parts express stuff. Did Mountain say it would work? I read through here, but I don't remember him saying anything about it.

Lew,
1/16" seams a bit thick, even for horizontal grade.  I think it is less than that. The point I was trying to make in my last post is that I was able to bend horizontal grade laminate around a 3.5" radius on my coin door panel. Considering that the coin door panel was about 35" in length, bending it around an 8" radius that is only 12" in length shouldn't be a problem. I know for a fact that horizontal grade laminate is more plyable than 1/8" MDF, it will work.

NO! DON'T CALL ME THICK! YOUR THICK! 

You are correct - vertical grade is 1/32" or so (at least mine was). As a matter of fact, I don't know why I said that cause I received my vertical grade laminate rolled up in a cylinder about 18" around. It can wrap this with no problems.

[javeryh]

If the horizontal stuff will bend around an 8" radius WITHOUT HEAT or anything else then I'm going to get that.  I need something a little stiff for the back panel and the horizontal stuff (1.0mm) will do a better job, I think.  I'm going to place the order today!   

[javeryh]

OK, the next thing I did was rough cut the remaining openings for the monitor and the speakers. With the tools I have it took me a while to figure out how to cut each of these openings with 1/4" radius corners.





At this point it is starting to take shape...

[DaOld Man]

Looking good JH!!
Now back up a few steps to what you are going to use for a back..
I thought about using the 1/8" acrylic sheet that Im going to use for the front.
That stuff is pretty stiff, and I think it would make an excellent back piece. Your thoughts?

[javeryh]

Thanks DaOld Man!

I think the 1/8" acrylic would work just fine for the back panel.  The piece I initially ordered is mostly used up from making the front panel so even if I wanted to I don't have enough left.  Also, for personal aesthetic reasons I think I like the laminate look for the back panel.  Plus, in my particular design I am going to be cutting out quite a few holes for usb ports, etc. and I think the laminate will be a little easier (not much) to work with.  Depending on the sturdiness of the laminate I might glue it to a 1/8" piece of hardwood. 

The real question I'm struggling with is how to attach it yet make it easily removable.  There will be t-molding around the edge to consider.  I'm leaning towards magnets so it will kind of just pop off but I'm open to all suggestions.   

[Kaytrim]

I would highly recommend using some kind of backer for the laminate back panel, 1/4" at least in thickness.  You need something a little more substantial to attach your ports.  This will also give some strength to the laminate so it will not flex and end up cracking as you plug in or pull out the cords.  Magnets would be a good solution.   I would suggest the rare earth magnets that are sold here.  http://www.hartvilletool.com/category/524  Mount several around the edge of the case using the metal cups that are also sold at the above link and mount some iron on the back panel for the magnets to grab a hold of.

Looking Good so far, 
Kaytrim

[leapinlew]

Heres a dumb question, but if your going to be laminating it - couldn't you have just used screws to fasten it?

[mountain]

javeryh,
I used 1/8" MDF covered with laminate as my back piece. If you go any thicker you wont be able to cut the slot for the chrome T-molding. This is assuming that you want the back panel to tuck inside of the T-molding.

[mountain]

Heres a dumb question, but if your going to be laminating it - couldn't you have just used screws to fasten it?

Yup 

[javeryh]

javeryh,
I used 1/8" MDF covered with laminate as my back piece. If you go any thicker you wont be able to cut the slot for the chrome T-molding. This is assuming that you want the back panel to tuck inside of the T-molding.

This is exactly my concern.  I'm glad that I can squeeze a 1/8" piece of MDF or whatever in there and still be able to route the slot.  Did you let the t-molding cover the exposed edge of the back panel or did you laminate the edge of the 1/8" back panel so it would match the top?  Or, did you cut the back panel to the size of the shell plus the laminate?  Hmmm... maybe that's the way to go...

[DaOld Man]

Looks to me like the T-molding is covering the edge of the back panel.
Im thinking about using the same acrylic as teh front for the panel, and using screws to fasten, but maybe using laminate on the 1/8" "skin" material might be better.

I couldnt find 1/8" mdf anywhere near me (heck they dont even have 5/8" MDF), so Im going to use the same stuff I used on Stevies Jukebox. I think it is some type of hardwood, its 1/8" thick, and pretty cheap. It bends easy, and if you double it, it is pretty strong.

[mountain]

javeryh,
I cut the back panel before laminating the top/sides. Doesn't really matter because the t-molding is going to want to bend down tight onto the back panel. I had the back on the unit when I installed the t-molding, but after removing the back panel for the first time it was impossible to reinstall. I had to trim the back panel 1/16" all the way around as well hold my tongue just the right way to get it back on.

[javeryh]

javeryh,
I cut the back panel before laminating the top/sides. Doesn't really matter because the t-molding is going to want to bend down tight onto the back panel. I had the back on the unit when I installed the t-molding, but after removing the back panel for the first time it was impossible to reinstall. I had to trim the back panel 1/16" all the way around as well hold my tongue just the right way to get it back on.

   Good to know!  I'll hopefully have a slightly easier time with it because my t-molding won't be on the bottom so the panel might have a little wiggle room to slide down before removing.  I'm not sure how I'm going to handle the main power plug though - your design allowed for you to make certain things stationary in the base.  I have some ideas though...

[javeryh]

No progress yet this weekend.   

I did pick this up this morning though!!!   

[ratzz]

WOW! Fantastic grab!

Cant wait for that one to start!

[javeryh]

Heh, me neither.  I'm hoping I can start once the juke is done but it might have to wait until the spring because the cold weather is coming... unless I paint in the basement or something.  I'm pretty sure bondo and sanding will be OK out in the cold but I haven't given it much thought.  I know "everyone" restores a DK around here but one more can't hurt...

[leapinlew]

I know "everyone" restores a DK around here but one more can't hurt...

You'll love it. I was surprised how much I enjoyed mine. It'll be the easiest thing you've built yet.

[javeryh]

I know "everyone" restores a DK around here but one more can't hurt...

You'll love it. I was surprised how much I enjoyed mine. It'll be the easiest thing you've built yet.

I hope so.  I could use an "easy" project.  I was surprised at how small and light the thing was too.  It fit in the back of my SUV no problem.  Also, I only paid $36 and it came with the coin door, coin box and both mechs - no dents either so it can be restored completely.  There's also almost zero damage to it - only one section near the back that I'll have to reform with bondo.  I thought it was a steal.

[leapinlew]

I know "everyone" restores a DK around here but one more can't hurt...

You'll love it. I was surprised how much I enjoyed mine. It'll be the easiest thing you've built yet.

I hope so.  I could use an "easy" project.  I was surprised at how small and light the thing was too.  It fit in the back of my SUV no problem.  Also, I only paid $36 and it came with the coin door, coin box and both mechs - no dents either so it can be restored completely.  There's also almost zero damage to it - only one section near the back that I'll have to reform with bondo.  I thought it was a steal.

That is a steal. One other bonus.... this cabinet is 20+ years old. You're allowed to be less anal about it since a small amount of imperfection is character. You didn't build it after all.

2 questions:
How'd you end up at $36?
You divorced or something? 

[ratzz]

Time to move the wife and kids out ! 

[javeryh]

I know "everyone" restores a DK around here but one more can't hurt...

You'll love it. I was surprised how much I enjoyed mine. It'll be the easiest thing you've built yet.

I hope so.  I could use an "easy" project.  I was surprised at how small and light the thing was too.  It fit in the back of my SUV no problem.  Also, I only paid $36 and it came with the coin door, coin box and both mechs - no dents either so it can be restored completely.  There's also almost zero damage to it - only one section near the back that I'll have to reform with bondo.  I thought it was a steal.

That is a steal. One other bonus.... this cabinet is 20+ years old. You're allowed to be less anal about it since a small amount of imperfection is character. You didn't build it after all.

2 questions:
How'd you end up at $36?
You divorced or something? 

I'm hoping I can be less anal with this one.  It will be a good test for me.  $36 was the price I won it on eBay for - the guy had an empty Taito I could have had for $30 too but I couldn't fit it in my SUV so I passed.  It was a pick-up only auction and it was close (1:40 one-way) so I bit.  I put in a final bid price of $100 and just got very very lucky.  The seller was a real nice guy - he told me he restored two other DKs and he showed me pics of one - came out great. 

I'm not divorced but I'm sure she thinks about it every time I add another cab to the collection.   

Time to move the wife and kids out ! 

If they don't throw me out first!   

[DaOld Man]

I would love to find a DK cab..
Good luck with yours JH, but lets not forget about that juke!

[javeryh]

I would love to find a DK cab..
Good luck with yours JH, but lets not forget about that juke!

I am not starting the DK until the juke is 100% finished.  It is already underneath a tarp in my garage.  Out of sight out of mind...

Back to the Jukebox...  let me just say that mountain is one bad mofo and we should all take a minute to pause and bow down to his skillz.  Take a look at his project thread - he goes from "Here is part of the jig I made to hold the piece in place [to work on the screen mount]." to "The screen mounting is done!" in only 7 days after STARTING the project.  I finally finished the screen mount last night and it seriously took me a month and a half and about 30-35 hours working on the one piece - and I still have to polish the edges of the beveled Plexiglas.  It came out nice though (I think).

I'll catch this thread up to where I actually am eventually... I took A LOT of pictures and I'm kind of taking my time with the explanations and everything...   

[javeryh]

Here are a few shots after I cut the openings for the monitor and the speakers to final dimensions. I used a 3/4" pattern bit (for most of it) with the router and ran the ball bearing along a straightedge.

This was quite tricky to accomplish. There wasn't much room to clamp down the straight edge so I had to get creative. Check out this clamping nightmare:



After I finished the edges, I cleaned up the corners using a Japanese hand saw and some sandpaper. Finally, I went over the interior edges of the entire panel with some sandpaper to make sure everything was exactly flat with no noticeable bumps in the corners or anything. This panel will be exactly what the black plexiglass looks like when it is cut so everything has to be as perfect as possible.





More later.   

[leapinlew]

 

Quality work.