Author Topic: Punch-Out!! restoration (Complete!!) - new bezel! (Read 35259 times)

Spyridon · « **Reply #40 on:** September 14, 2008, 04:10:16 pm »

It's cap kit time. I was surprised to see that this game actually had two different monitors in it. The bottom monitor is a Sanyo 20EZ

And the top monitor is a Sharp XM-2001

I purchased the cap kit's from Bob Roberts. Here are the completed monitors waiting to go back into the cab. Need to put the side art on first:

I also cleaned up the interior bezels as they were covered in dust.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #41 on:** September 14, 2008, 09:26:48 pm »

Hehe ... one of each eh ?
Those are about the only two monitors you'll find in an original Nintendo cab.

They both look exceptionally clean as well.

ChadTower · « **Reply #42 on:** September 15, 2008, 09:41:54 am »

Verify that the caps in the kit are what the paper he includes says. I've gotten wrong caps in several kits from him. Also check against the cap you're taking out that the paper was right to begin with - the paper is usually right but the set of caps in the bag doesn't always match.

Spyridon · « **Reply #43 on:** September 28, 2008, 03:49:56 pm »

Put the side are on today. I used the dry method as follows:

Line up the artwork in the correct spot and use some masking tape to hold it in place

Next, I peelled back the top two inches of the backing and stuck the art in place. Using a flat surfaced device (a credit card will work), I pushed down to make sure the art was stuck in place with no air bubbles. I did this from side to side as I slowly pulled the backing off.

Once the backing was completely removed, I went over it again making sure it was down and had no air bullbles.

Then the removal of the protective covering

Repeat for side 2:

I used an exacto knife to cut holes in the side art where the monitor carrige bolts had to go. I then put the monitor brackets back in place.

Spyridon · « **Reply #44 on:** September 28, 2008, 03:53:03 pm »

Next, I put the monitors back in place

And the bezel plexi and control panel

While I was hooking up the monitor, I also removed the batteries from the board. I was going to replace these with an off board solution, but from what I've herad, these batteries are only used for book keeping info. I won't need this for home use so off they go

Spyridon · « **Reply #45 on:** September 28, 2008, 03:54:43 pm »

Fired it up to play a game....Crap!

Lower monitor has just a horizontal line through it. Looks like my cap kit was unsuccessful!

Any suggestions on what to look at to fix this?

2600 · « **Reply #46 on:** September 28, 2008, 06:25:12 pm »

The Sanyo 20ez has a test switch in the middle of the PCB. When this switch is on you get a horizontal line. I'd try that switch first.

Also, I'm pretty sure that the batteries are for High Scores. You may be thinking of the Vs. Games which are for book keeping.

Spyridon · « **Reply #47 on:** September 28, 2008, 06:40:37 pm »

Quote from: 2600 on September 28, 2008, 06:25:12 pm

The Sanyo 20ez has a test switch in the middle of the PCB. When this switch is on you get a horizontal line. I'd try that switch first.

Yeah, I tried that switch. No change.

MaximRecoil · « **Reply #48 on:** September 29, 2008, 01:42:49 am »

Quote from: 2600 on September 28, 2008, 06:25:12 pm

Also, I'm pretty sure that the batteries are for High Scores.

That's correct. SPO only saves the top 20 scores and the remaining 30 scores reset to default each time the machine is started. PO saves all 50 scores.

ChadTower · « **Reply #49 on:** October 02, 2008, 03:17:14 pm »

Double check the orientation of all of the caps you installed. Then reflow the solder joints and reflow pretty much any joints you feel like reflowing. When you handle the chassis roughly enough to do a cap kit it's pretty common to crack a couple of ancient solder joints in the process. No need to panic just yet - this is not a big deal yet. Pay particular attention to the joints on any pots on the board - reflow those no matter what they look like. Those crack most often.

Spyridon · « **Reply #50 on:** October 02, 2008, 10:23:15 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on October 02, 2008, 03:17:14 pm

Double check the orientation of all of the caps you installed. Then reflow the solder joints and reflow pretty much any joints you feel like reflowing. When you handle the chassis roughly enough to do a cap kit it's pretty common to crack a couple of ancient solder joints in the process. No need to panic just yet - this is not a big deal yet. Pay particular attention to the joints on any pots on the board - reflow those no matter what they look like. Those crack most often.

Good tips. I'll follow that advice and let everyone know how I make out.

Level42 · « **Reply #51 on:** October 11, 2008, 05:08:22 pm »

Especially check C407

Spyridon · « **Reply #52 on:** November 04, 2008, 08:37:33 pm »

Okay, finally got a chance to pull the monitor back out and look at it. I verified that all of the caps are installed with the correct orientation. What should I be looking for to determine if I have any cold solder joints?

Spyridon · « **Reply #53 on:** November 06, 2008, 05:24:58 pm »

Anyone know the best place to send this to get fixed if I can't figure it out?

Spyridon · « **Reply #54 on:** January 09, 2009, 10:27:16 am »

Update on this. I sent the monitor board out for repair. Couldn't figure it out on my own. As soon as I get it back, I'll be able to finish this one up.

2600 · « **Reply #55 on:** January 09, 2009, 12:38:17 pm »

That's too bad, but at least someone else may be able to get it running.
Could you post what the problem was when you get the chassis back?

Spyridon · « **Reply #56 on:** January 09, 2009, 01:18:32 pm »

Quote from: 2600 on January 09, 2009, 12:38:17 pm

That's too bad, but at least someone else may be able to get it running.
Could you post what the problem was when you get the chassis back?

Will do. I asked them to let me know what was wrong so I can learn from it.

Spyridon · « **Reply #57 on:** February 07, 2009, 02:32:23 pm »

Got a nice package in the mail the other day:

Looks like lots of bad traces was the problem. It was working before my cap kit, so probably my inexperience with soldering caused it. Here is what it looks like now...

Put the chasis back together and placed the monitor back into its rightful spot

Fired her up and..............

The picture looks great! Makes my top monitor look washed out a bit. I'll have to adjust it and see if I can get it better.

Here it is...the finished product!

Spyridon · « **Reply #58 on:** February 07, 2009, 02:35:15 pm »

and now the obligatory before and after shots:

slasherman · « **Reply #59 on:** February 08, 2009, 04:05:02 am »

Quote from: Spyridon on February 07, 2009, 02:35:15 pm

This says it all...great work

tommyguard3 · « **Reply #60 on:** February 08, 2009, 11:54:25 am »

Awesome!!! Great Job!

Level42 · « **Reply #61 on:** February 09, 2009, 10:22:20 am »

Quote from: tommyguard3 on February 08, 2009, 11:54:25 am

Awesome!!! Great Job!

+1

javeryh · « **Reply #62 on:** February 16, 2009, 06:08:02 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on February 09, 2009, 10:22:20 am

Quote from: tommyguard3 on February 08, 2009, 11:54:25 am
Awesome!!! Great Job!
+1

+2

Lecithin · « **Reply #63 on:** February 16, 2009, 11:36:08 pm »

Now thats a restoration! Great job!

Spyridon · « **Reply #64 on:** February 17, 2009, 03:24:04 pm »

Thanks for the compliments.

Spyridon · « **Reply #65 on:** June 09, 2009, 08:31:23 pm »

The problem with the normal freeplay settings on Punch-Out!! is that once enabled, the screen sits on the click start button. No attract mode. Not the ideal situation. Thanks to a KLOV user, we can now have freeplay enabled with attract mode. It just requires replacing two roms.

8K and 8L need to be replaced:

with the new roms:

Works great. Just hit the KO button to go to the start screen

Here is a link to the freeplay hack

Spyridon · « **Reply #66 on:** July 10, 2009, 03:13:08 pm »

Chuck 777 over at KLOV worked with a local glass company to recreate the Punch-Out!! bezel.

I got mine in today and it looks great.

Comparison to original:

Bend was just about an exact match to the original (original on the left)

New bezel is slightly thicker (about 1/16th) then the orignal, but much heavier. Size is correct and the black border is perfect (original on the right)

The only real difference I see is around the bend. You can see in the picture above, that the distorted area on the new one is much wider than the old one. About 1 inch wide compared to a little under 1/2 inch.

Here is another look at it. The area in red is the distorted area:

Original:

New:

Hard to photograph well but in the end it really doesn't matter. That area is between the monitors so it doesn't impact the game play at all.

Overall recommendation - These are great! If you need a replacement, I think you will be very pleased.

And the money shot:

WunderCade · « **Reply #67 on:** July 11, 2009, 03:45:21 pm »

Man that looks like a minty PO. Perhaps you can do a showcase shot like Phet does, the whole completed cab by itself - like you are shooting it for a flyer.

Anyways, I have a question. Do you clear coat the sides after you apply the new side art, or before, or both?

Spyridon · « **Reply #68 on:** July 11, 2009, 07:34:25 pm »

Quote from: WunderCade on July 11, 2009, 03:45:21 pm

Anyways, I have a question. Do you clear coat the sides after you apply the new side art, or before, or both?

I did not use any clear coat on the cab.

Wade · « **Reply #69 on:** July 13, 2009, 11:15:15 pm »

Stunning. And the new glass is the perfect final touch!

Wade

spriggy · « **Reply #70 on:** July 15, 2009, 11:53:21 am »

Quote from: Wade on July 13, 2009, 11:15:15 pm

Stunning. And the new glass is the perfect final touch!

Wade

+1. This might end up on my replica list because of this. Nice work!!

Spyridon · « **Reply #71 on:** July 15, 2009, 12:50:48 pm »

Thanks for the compliments.

My glass wasn't in bad shape, but had some deep scratches that wouldn't polish out. The new bezel is really nice.


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