Spy Hunter on a Standard CP?

[GAtekwriter]

I've searched but can't seem to find any info on playing Spy Hunter (one of my all time favs) with a standard CP layout (no steering wheel).

If I seem to remember, you had steering, a button to call the truck, smoke & oil & missile buttons, machine gun firing, and a shifter.  Anyone have a good suggestion on mapping these to buttons, joysticks, etc that makes the game even remotely playable?

Jim

[FrizzleFried]

Not going to happen without at least a spinner or even an analog joystick.

An 8-way stick just ain't going to work for steering.

[Ummon]

Even worse, missing an analog throttle just kills it.

[wbassett]

I got my eye on a Spy Hunter steering console!

Question about the analog throttle... will a PC based gas and break peddle work?

[GAtekwriter]

Okay, but isn't the throttle just Hi-Lo gear?  Does this not map to two different keyboard/controller switches?  Couldn't I program a button that puts the car in low gear and a second button that switches it to high gear?

I do have a spinner on my CP, so I have that item checked.  I should be able to map machine gun, missile, oil, and smoke to individual buttons... so it appears that the throttle/gear stick is the only issue?

Thanks for the comments.

Jim

[NoOne=NBA=]

Okay, but isn't the throttle just Hi-Lo gear?

No.
The throttle is the gas pedal.
Without an analog control to simulate that, you end up going way too fast and crashing.

[GAtekwriter]

Good point... can't believe I forgot about the gas pedal.  I was thinking how I played it on some Flash game once and the speed was controlled by how far forward you pushed the joystick or up key... anyone every play a version like that?

Jim

[northerngames]

yeah its playable until you put it in high gear and as mentioned before it is way to hard to control becuase it's to jerky in high gear.

your p2 joy can be used as the high low shifter and p1 joy for steering but it is the gas pedal that is needed with high gear to control it right..

I am going to try out the xbox 360 wireless racing whels and pedal that way I dont have to mess with wiring and opening/closing the cab each time I switch to a non racer.

they pick-up the same as the wireless controllers and can be custom keyed through xpadder if needed.

I guess the original version of the wheel caught fire most of the time until they revised a part.

does not suprise me though seems MS like's to burn up people's carpet and such at launch due to faulty products. 

[SavannahLion]

does not suprise me though seems MS like's to burn up people's carpet and such at launch due to faulty products.

Uh... faulty or not, no one should be putting any heat generating device on carpet.

[erictrumpet]

An analog flight stick can work, theoretically. Forward/back could be the pedal, then left/right and all the buttons on the stick (plus the button bank under your left hand) should cover it all. But man, what a compromise. Spy Hunter is one of those games you just sort of have to live without unless you have a dedicated cab/panel. However, I use my analog flight stick for Star Wars, which is totally wrong of course, but it is very playable and enjoyable, probably because flying an aircraft with a flight stick feels natural whereas driving a car with one is just weird.

Eric.

[Xiaou2]

 Just an FYI:

 You dont really need a button to  call the Truck.    The Truck always
comes at specific intervals.   The truck does not come any faster
if you push the weapons van button during gameplay.

 The Weapons van button is merely used for starting the game.

 The game is way too intense for any compromises on control schemes.

[Ummon]

An analog flight stick can work, theoretically. Forward/back could be the pedal, then left/right and all the buttons on the stick (plus the button bank under your left hand) should cover it all. But man, what a compromise. Spy Hunter is one of those games you just sort of have to live without unless you have a dedicated cab/panel. However, I use my analog flight stick for Star Wars, which is totally wrong of course, but it is very playable and enjoyable, probably because flying an aircraft with a flight stick feels natural whereas driving a car with one is just weird.

Eric.

This is what I'm planning - a cab with a yoke to play this and star wars games, as well as Paperboy - which a yoke is very similar to the handlebars in function.

[TPB]

This is what I'm planning - a cab with a yoke

The CH Products yoke ?

http://www.chproducts.com/retail/y_fsyusb.html


Does this yoke work with MAME ?

[ahofle]

Look for a cheap PC steering wheel setup with suction cups on the bottom.  You don't need to modify your CP that way and can just remove it when you are done with Spy Hunter.  I got one of those NASCAR steering wheels for $15 on clearance at Target a while ago.  Other than the original controller of course, I don't think there is any other way to properly play this game.

EDIT: I think this is the one I have:
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-NASCAR-Racing-Vibration-Feedback/dp/B0002SAF96

[TheShanMan]

Andy, that has me thinking. Previously I was assuming I'd eventually make a swappable panel using a genuine arcade steering wheel, but of course it's pretty expensive. I wonder if this might be a good solution for me. Looks great! Few questions:

• Do you mind measuring the dimensions of the base? I wonder if it would fit on one of my swappable panels (I think they're 19.5"x6.5"). Would be great if it's smaller, but maybe it could still work if bigger.
• Do you think I could take off the suction cups and run screws through one of my panels up into the suction cup holes (or elsewhere)?
• Is it 270 degrees? I think pretty much all PC wheels are, but that's more a suspicion than any direct knowledge.
• I assume you're happy with this wheel? Does it work well for other games? What about games that have a shifter?

Thanks!

[ahofle]

Sure I will measure it when I get home.  It's a tight fit for sure, but I have it in between my player 1 buttons and to the left of my trackball.  It is 270 degrees.  I think it works very well for Spy Hunter.  It's the only way I've been able to get to the boats phase.  It has paddle shifters which I use for shooting and gear changes.  It also works great for Outrun, Chase HQ, and Special Criminal Investigation (and I think Hang On).  If you want I can test it out with another game.  I'm not sure how well it would work with a game that requires a real shifter, but there is a small Dpad on the left that may work for that.

I forgot to mention that this would obviously only be an option if your CP has a smooth surface like lexan on it.

[Flake]

Sure I will measure it when I get home.  It's a tight fit for sure, but I have it in between my player 1 buttons and to the left of my trackball.  It is 270 degrees.  I think it works very well for Spy Hunter.  It's the only way I've been able to get to the boats phase.  It has paddle shifters which I use for shooting and gear changes.  It also works great for Outrun, Chase HQ, and Special Criminal Investigation (and I think Hang On).  If you want I can test it out with another game.  I'm not sure how well it would work with a game that requires a real shifter, but there is a small Dpad on the left that may work for that.

I forgot to mention that this would obviously only be an option if your CP has a smooth surface like lexan on it.

So, excuse my ignorance but how does it interface with the computer?  USB?  Do you have to setup anything special in Mame to get it to work properly?  If this thing is easy to interface that would be a great option - assuming I can get it on my panel.

I have always been bummed that I cant play Spyhunter.  Which got me thinking I would build a all driver cab one day but I have exhausted all my spare funds on my recent build.

[ahofle]

Yep it's USB.  Basically it's just an analog joystick to MAME.  Just enable joystick and go to the in-game input settings and configure your mappings.

[wbassett]

Just snagged a Spy Hunter console for $26 plus shipping!  Whoohoo!

Now... what's the best/easiest way to interface this to my PC?

[ark_ader]

I play Spy Hunter just fine, using just buttons. 

The car is very difficult to control with a spinner.

If all fails, you can always play the old Xbox version.

[jasonbar]

Solution: come to Pasadena, CA & buy my dedicated Spy Hunter!

(only half-kidding, PM me if you're interested...)


And now back to our non-Buy/Sell-Trade thread...   

-J

[TAG]

Just snagged a Spy Hunter console for $26 plus shipping!  Whoohoo!

Now... what's the best/easiest way to interface this to my PC?

I'd say the easiest way would be to use Ultimarc's A-PAC.

[wbassett]

Just snagged a Spy Hunter console for $26 plus shipping!  Whoohoo!

Now... what's the best/easiest way to interface this to my PC?

I'd say the easiest way would be to use Ultimarc's A-PAC.

Thanks I'll check into that.  I was thinking of there wasn't something out there that I could just plug this into or change the plugs on the wiring so I could plug it into a board I'd try the route of kitbash/hacking it onto a PC steering wheel since ahofle confirmed they work.

I just won the auction so I don't have this baby in hand yet but from the pic of the underside it looks a bit rough.  Probably could use some new springs and maybe even a new pot.  I'll find out when I get it.

Now all I need is a Star Wars yoke and I have all the panels for my driving/flying games!

[wbassett]

Hey guys, after looking at this some more and seeing that ahofle confirmed that a PC steering wheel will work for Spy Hunter...  I think we can make one of these!



Okay hear me out... it would take some clever work modifying the steering wheel on a PC wheel, but I've seen guys in here do harder and more incredible things!

Start with the PC steering wheel and disassembly the wheel.  The center hub will be the hardest part but after that the rest should be a breeze!

Start with these from Happcontrols.  They are even listed as replacements for SpyHunter II.


Get some tubing that's easy to bend, probably copper plumbing I'm thinking.  Get the bend down to look like the real Spy Hunter curve.  The tubing is hollow, so that's a snap to run the wires to the triggers through.  Some rubber flex tubing and it may not be an exact Spy Hunter wheel, but man it sure would be pretty damn close!

Wire the Happ handle triggers up to the buttons on the PC steering wheel and add any additional buttons needed on the grip, cp, or wheel hub.

ahofle- I assume since you said this works pretty good for you and for Spy Hunter, the PC gas pedal works well I too?  If so that's what I plan on going with.

When I get this in I'll take any pictures and measurements anyone wants if they are interested in building one, and I'll see if I can get the cp graphic scanned too.

This could be a cool project and looks pretty easy too.  We sure nobody's ever done this before?

[ahofle]

• Do you mind measuring the dimensions of the base? I wonder if it would fit on one of my swappable panels (I think they're 19.5"x6.5"). Would be great if it's smaller, but maybe it could still work if bigger.

Attached some crude measurements...

[ahofle]

ahofle- I assume since you said this works pretty good for you and for Spy Hunter, the PC gas pedal works well I too?  If so that's what I plan on going with.

Yep, analog pedal works well.  I'm interested in seeing where this goes.  I think the biggest challenge is going to be in the mounting. 

[wbassett]

Mounting of the new steering assembly onto the old PC wheel?  Yeah that will take some thought but like I said I've seen guys on here pull off some more amazing things than this.

[ahofle]

Actually I was referring to the mounting to the cabinet.  Not sure those cheap suction cups (or cheap plastic mounting brackets on other PC wheels) would hold well enough.

[wbassett]

oh that...  I think that is probably the easy part.

One way if the suction cups don't work could be rare earth magnets.

Put some in the cp embedded in the wood and then covered with the cp art and plexi, and then a couple in the steering wheel bottom... cover with felt so it doesn't scratch the plexi...

This is a trick some people have done with a DIY laminate projection screen for a masking system. 

Bear with me because this is an idea on the fly.
One potential issue could be the magnets and any switches that are nearby.  Rare earth magnets are pretty strong so it's possible they could interfere with leaf switches, but if they are far enough away the wood should isolate them.  Or possibly some metal plates in the cp and just the magnets in the steering unit... like I said these babies are pretty strong and a metal plate would hold it pretty firm.  Dunno though, like I said I never tried this and it's something that popped in my head.

I'm positive this part is the least of our worries though!  Getting the tubing bent to have the right look and then the center hub to connect everything to is going to be the tricky part.

My final cp design is going to be modular so I guess I have a leg up in that respect and hopefully I'll be able to mount a variety of panels.

What about a latching assembly where the steering wheel system connects and disconnects on the front vertical board of the cp?  We'll figure something out.

[TheShanMan]

• Do you mind measuring the dimensions of the base? I wonder if it would fit on one of my swappable panels (I think they're 19.5"x6.5"). Would be great if it's smaller, but maybe it could still work if bigger.

Attached some crude measurements...

Thanks Andy. But I'm a bit unclear on the one measurement. Is that a diagonal measurement from the rear cup to one of the front cups? Or is that a measurement that's perpendicular to the other measurement? If the former, then it's a bit deeper than my swappable panels, but I may still be able to work it out anyway - it would overlap onto the rest of the control panel (the non-swappable part), but that might not be a big deal. I'd have to take that baby apart and figure out a mounting mechanism though. Probably doable.

[ahofle]

Thanks Andy. But I'm a bit unclear on the one measurement. Is that a diagonal measurement from the rear cup to one of the front cups? Or is that a measurement that's perpendicular to the other measurement? If the former, then it's a bit deeper than my swappable panels, but I may still be able to work it out anyway - it would overlap onto the rest of the control panel (the non-swappable part), but that might not be a big deal. I'd have to take that baby apart and figure out a mounting mechanism though. Probably doable.

Yes, the 7" measurement is from the center of the single rear cup to either one of the two front cups.  My freehand arrow drawing needs some work hehe.

[TheShanMan]

Oh, that's great Andy. Then by my calculation the depth is 5 7/8" from the front cups to the back, which means potentially those could be mounting points that I could run screws through. Too bad this thing doesn't come with a shifter too!

[Flake]

You know, my question now is I wonder how much clearance those suction cups have?  Do you think they would fit over action buttons?  Oh, hell, if its only 6" deep I could put it behind the trackball. 

So do the pedals connect to the computer via USB as well?  I couldnt tell from the Amazon site.

[TheShanMan]

Good question, Flake. My assumption is 2 wires come out of the back of the steering wheel - one goes to the computer and one goes to the pedals. I sure hope they're not 2 separate USB devices!

[Paul Olson]

wbassett - Damn, I was just a little too cheap. I tried for that cp, but I only wanted to go up tp $50 with shipping. Maybe the next one... 

[TAG]

wbassett - Damn, I was just a little too cheap. I tried for that cp, but I only wanted to go up tp $50 with shipping. Maybe the next one... 

Definitely keep an eye out.  I got mine for $19.99 plus shipping a year or so back on eBay, and I was the only bidder.  I haven't gotten around to hooking it up, yet, but I'm sure I'll get to it eventually.

[wbassett]

wbassett - Damn, I was just a little too cheap. I tried for that cp, but I only wanted to go up tp $50 with shipping. Maybe the next one... 

I had my bid set to $35, and then went and changed it to $42 (incase someone tried $41 thinking I maxed it at $40 )  I was totally suprised it went for only $26.  With shipping it's under $40 so I'm very happy!

[ahofle]

You know, my question now is I wonder how much clearance those suction cups have?  Do you think they would fit over action buttons?  Oh, hell, if its only 6" deep I could put it behind the trackball. 

So do the pedals connect to the computer via USB as well?  I couldnt tell from the Amazon site.

There is only one USB cable that connects to the PC.  The pedals connect to the wheel with a different cable.
There is a little bit of clearance under the wheel.  There wasn't enough room between my trackball and player 1 buttons so it's hovering over a couple of those buttons.  It doesn't seem to make a difference though, just make sure those buttons are not bound to anything in MAME in case they are pressed.

[TheShanMan]

I ordered this wheel, Andy. So thanks for the advice. For anyone else interested, there is a company on ebay selling used but like new units (even in original packaging) for $10 plus $15 shipping through Buy It Now. They still have some.

[Xiaou2]

 Something to consider...

 
   I wasnt that good at the game until I bought an actual machine... and
since then,  Ive come to realize a few things.


  The wheel is built like a Tank.  Its made to be slammed at high
velocity from left to right edges.   The reason for this?   To
bump the bullet proof cars..  the game senses how much
turn you made in said time unit.   So... if you only turn part way... the
baddies may not bump far enough away to crash into the curb.
(or their bump will over power yours.. and send you flying)

 Also, if you do not move the wheel fast enough,  it appropriately
makes the forces reduced.  Much like you hitting a pool ball with the
stick.

 If you are moving the wheel really fast.. its bound to slam very hard at
the extreme edges.   Which in most pc wheels which are made of
thin plastic... would probably create damages over a short time.

 Spy Hunters wheel has 2 huge rubber bumpers which absorb
the shock forces, and keep the wheel from ripping apart.  (as well
as being made from heavy gage steel)

Hacks are fun... but generally, they end up costing more than the
original units.. and dont work half as well.