Happ Perfect 360 Wiring Problems (With i-Pac)

[SuperDodge]

Guys,

I'm trying to wire the joysticks in my cabinet which are the absolute last part before I am 100% done.  I am using my i-Pac to supply the 5v power.  I have confirmed via multimeter that I have tapped the right pins on the i-Pac.  I am using a modular panel design with quick disocnnects, so I have also confirmed that I have +5v on the wires right at the Joystick.

Here's my problem.  If I connect the joysticks and measure the voltage across the U/D/L/R connectors, all directions go +5v hot as soon as power is connected.

I have wired the joystick in the following manner.  I have one wire form the +5v pin on the i-Pac to the +5 connection on the joystick.  I have one wire running from the GND pin on the i-Pac to the GND connection on the joystick.  I then have a single wire from each U/D/L/R connection to the corresponding connection on the i-Pac.  I have no means of connecting the i-Pac GND to the joystick GND.  Is my wiring correct?

If my wiring is correct, does that mean they joysticks are shot?  They were bought used off eBay so I guess it's possible.

Thanks in advance for the help.

-RL

[SuperDodge]

Anybody?

[BobA]

Sounds correct.   The output should be high and should go to ground when the direction is activated.  That would be the action of a regular joystick with the common loop wired to ground when the switch is activated.   When not activated the input to the ipac would be high.

I don't have one but it makes sense that it should work this way.

Bob

[SuperDodge]

So the iPac expects the U/D/R/L inputs to function as NC switches?

All of my buttons function as NO switches.

[RandyT]

Connect your joysticks to power.  Then carefully use a multimeter to check the outputs.  In the static state (center) you should read about 5v on the outputs.  When you move the stick, you should see that output pulled low toward ground.  As most encoders float at 5v and recognize a "logic low" as activity on the pin, they are compatible with this form of operation.

RandyT

[SuperDodge]

Thank You Guys!!!  Your Help Is Most Appreciated.

I will try this tonight and post my results.

[SuperDodge]

Connect your joysticks to power.  Then carefully use a multimeter to check the outputs.  In the static state (center) you should read about 5v on the outputs.  When you move the stick, you should see that output pulled low toward ground.  As most encoders float at 5v and recognize a "logic low" as activity on the pin, they are compatible with this form of operation.

RandyT

Next up you'll have to helpl me figure out how to get my TT2 with 7 inch steering wheel working correctly.  That's the next panel I plan to build for my modular design.

[RandyT]

Next up you'll have to helpl me figure out how to get my TT2 with 7 inch steering wheel working correctly.  That's the next panel I plan to build for my modular design.

If you have any problems, just fire me off an email.  Should just be "plug and play".

RandyT

[miles2912]

I would pull the 5v and the ground off the power supply.  Much easier and you know that you are 100% there.  The other 4 connections go to the ipac and are pretty straight forward.  That is how mine is connected at least and have had no probs.  BTW that is a great joystick.  I love the feel of mine.

[SuperDodge]

One of the joysticks works and the other doesn't (wired EXACTLY the same).

On the one that doesn't work, the U/D/L/R go to +5v but they never go to 0v when you move the joystick.  I guess that one is shot somehow.

Thanks for the help guys.  At least I only have to buy one now.

-RL

[miles2912]

Check out this thread.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=53033.0

I had a bad one from happs and returned it.  I bet this would have fixed it.