New Router

[Paulson]

 Hi Friends,
                  As I am a newbie to all this...well kind of (I did construct some controls on a
 wooden box a while back). I have decided to pull the trigger & make my own cocktail cab
 blah blah...I know you have heard it all before.

 So this morning I went out and bought this router:

 

 

 

 

 

 I'll be using it mainly for cutting T molding grooves so it should be
 perfect...it also came with 16 cutting bits
 I don't know much about these kind of power tools but it seems
 like hell have a lot of router for only £39.99

 Reduced price at Argos (for UK mamers)...
 I'm sure they have given me the wrong one cause the listed
 one is only 1100w & this one is 1500w

 Happy building folks.

 

 

[Franco B]

Looks like a bargain to me. Probably the best £40 you will ever spend. 

You will find many more uses for it than cutting t-moulding slots, they really are a versatile tool.

[patrickl]

A router is a cool tool. I use it surprisingly often. Nice find for only 40 pounds.

I couldn't find the t-molding slot cutting bit in the Netherlands so I had to order from the US. Which meant I bought a router that had a bit adaptor that accepted an inch based shaft measurements (1/2 inch I guess)

[Chadwick]

Does your router have a 10mm collet?  If so, you can use a bit with a 3/8" arbor/shank without an adapter.

[Paulson]

Does your router have a 10mm collet?  If so, you can use a bit with a 3/8" arbor/shank without an adapter.

 Just looking at the manual...I guess the collet is the same as chuck?
 (lol... I'm very new to this type of power tool) and it says:

 Collet size: 06.35mm & 12.7mm
                    08 & 12mm

 So I guess not?

[Chadwick]

Well you're in luck, 12.7mm is 1/2" and 6.35 is 1/4"

You can use any 1/2" or 1/4" shank/arbor router bit from the US with that 12.7mm or 6.35mm collet without any adapters.

I'd recommend using 1/2" shank router bits with the 12.7mm collet (chuck) on that router (1/4" is typically for laminate routers.)

[Egocentric]

lol.

I too am new to all this and have decided to "go retro" and build a mame cab as most of the modern games are very poor so old skool is the way forward for me.

I work in Argos and reserved this router today when i saw the price by accident (working in the stockroom means i don't know any prices but all products ). Seeing the good reports here that it will be sufficient for cabinet needs i'll buy it tomorow.

[Paulson]

 Hey I've only been a member of these boards 1 or 2 days & I'm helping
 mamers already...

[Paulson]

Well you're in luck, 12.7mm is 1/2" and 6.35 is 1/4"

You can use any 1/2" or 1/4" shank/arbor router bit from the US with that 12.7mm or 6.35mm collet without any adapters.

I'd recommend using 1/2" shank router bits with the 12.7mm collet (chuck) on that router (1/4" is typically for laminate routers.)

 Thanks to you too Chadwick for the advice...although it's going to take me
 awhile to get used to the router terms bit sizes etc...

[patrickl]

Well you're in luck, 12.7mm is 1/2" and 6.35 is 1/4"

You can use any 1/2" or 1/4" shank/arbor router bit from the US with that 12.7mm or 6.35mm collet without any adapters.

I'd recommend using 1/2" shank router bits with the 12.7mm collet (chuck) on that router (1/4" is typically for laminate routers.)

 Thanks to you too Chadwick for the advice...although it's going to take me
 awhile to get used to the router terms bit sizes etc...

Lol yeah, I don't think i'll ever get used to the terms for all the bits. I guess what I called "adapter" is called a collet. the only collet I know is a decollete. OK lame joke, but it's hot here 

[shmokes]

My favorite use for a router is to get a pattern bit for it.  You will not be sorry.  It's exactly like a straight bit, but it has a little bearing (wheel) on it that is the exact diameter of the cutting part of the bit.  You just position the router so that the bearing rolls along the edge of a pattern, and it will duplicate the pattern in another piece of wood (or other stock).  An awesome example of how you can use this is if you are making an arcade cabinet you only have to cut/shape/sand one side panel of the cabinet.  Then you just clamp that piece to a sheet of wood and run your router around the edge of it to make an EXACT duplicate of it in a tiny fraction of the amount of time it would take you to cut/shape/sand another similar piece the way you did the first one.  It's just awesome. 

I'm including a picture in case my description fails to put in your mind how this thing works.  As you look at the picture, just realize that the bottom piece of wood is already cut/shaped, and the wheel is rolling along it as a guide.  The shape of the wood is being duplicated in the top, thin piece.  Also, that is actually a flush trim bit, because the bearing is on bottom.  Pattern bits have the bearing on top.  For the most part they do the same thing, but certain jobs work better with one or the other.

edit: spelling

[ChadTower]

The one you show is good for flush trimming laminates... in fact you can see the laminate in the diagram.

[shmokes]

Yeah, but it didn't matter for me, as I wasn't putting laminate on a counter top.  If you can flip your workpiece over (a control panel or side panel, for example) a template bit works exactly the same as a flush trim bit.  I actually like working with a template bit quite a bit more cos you can see the template piece and know what to expect.  Sometimes when you're using a flush trim bit a curve or corner will sneak up on you (because the uncut piece obstructs the view of the template piece) and the router will tip over the edge a little, gouging a dent into the edge of the piece you're cutting.  A pattern bit gives you a little better control, but flush trim bits seem to be easier to find so I use them a lot.  It's nice to have both on hand.

[Chadwick]

Pattern/Template bit:

[Paulson]

 You know I think I have some of those bits included...trouble is I can't
 take a photo at the moment. My camera is at my brothers and I don't
 get it back until Sunday 

 I'll post it laters and see if it is correct...damn I wish I could understand
 what you guys are saying...maybe I need to see it done??

 Thanks.

[Paulson]

 I can't start my cocktail cab yet anyways cause I'm waiting for
 my slot cutter for the T molding.
 I guess I could cut out the coin door...but why rush?

 

[ChadTower]

Why would a slot cutter stop you from starting?  That's a minor step later on.

[Paulson]

Why would a slot cutter stop you from starting?  That's a minor step later on.

 Well I guess so...but I already have the sides already cut...I mean if I start putting
 it together I'll have to take it apart again.

 

[Paulson]

 I haven't decided on a coin door yet either...

[shmokes]

The confusion is that you said you can't start on your cocktail cab, which indicates that you, well, haven't started on it yet.  Chad was basically asking you, why not cut out the sides and do other stuff while you wait.  Still, there's no time like the present for getting your control panels built and wired, and your coindoor cut and your monitor mounting taken care of . . .  (this is coming from the guy who's just now finally finishing his cab that he started building at least three years ago).

[ChadTower]

The confusion is that you said you can't start on your cocktail cab, which indicates that you, well, haven't started on it yet.  Chad was basically asking you, why not cut out the sides and do other stuff while you wait. 

Yep... you appear to have done what I was thinking you could be doing.   

[Paulson]

 I found another problem...I have a IPAC mini pictured below...
 & have realised that the wiring won't reach to both panels  

 Unless there is a way around this? I've only build a mockup panel
 before...

 

[shmokes]

I'm guessing that the IPAC Mini uses a pre-made custom cable?  You can use pretty much any wire.  In fact, contact Andy from Ultimarc and I wouldn't be surprised if you can get a longer version of the cable it came with.  Otherwise, you can just cut the ends off that are supposed to connect to the joysticks and buttons.  Then just add more wire and crimp new ends on the wires or solder the wires directly to the terminals on the joysticks and buttons.