Pac Man cocktail Restored and Sold

[RayB]

This was converted to Tetris with JAMMA wiring at some point in its life. Control panels have generic overlays, 4 extra holes drilled in em, and the glass has no artwork. The coin door is the main clue that this used to be a Pac Man (single slot door) as well as some factory ID papers still stapled inside.

Serial # 290 is stamped into the wood frame.

[RayB]

Here it is almost completely fixed up (in all fairness, it was an easy job, due to good condition)

- repainted CPs
- added new repro overlays
- new start buttons
- cleaned up WICO red ball top joysticks (they had FUNGUS growing on them! UGH!)
- replaced all grills with brand new ones
- capped the monitor
- rewired AC wiring, added fuse (had no fuse! how dangerous!)
- repainted coin door
- touched up a few scratches (but overall body was in great shape)
- polished carriage bolt heads
- bought an original glass with original artwork (art is cracked/flaked in many places, but it's original)
- repainted glass clips

[RayB]

More pics to come showing coin door, etc...

To be done still:

 - Connect up buttons and joysticks
 - Replace lighting
 - Replace all t-molding with new
 - add 48-in-1

Sell.

[Wade]

Looks good!  Nice one to bring back.

Wade

[JeepMonkey]

Nice work.  I would love to find a cocktail in that condition. 

[BUCKETHEAD]

Very nice!

Love me some PAC-MAN !   

[RayB]

Added 48-in-1 board
Adjusted +5 to 5.03
Checked and fixed all wiring
Powered up monitor for first time. (G07-904)

Had a hell of a time getting a proper stable picture but eventually got one. Vertical hold has a hard time "locking in" until much later, after the monitor has warmed up. I even get top "curl" until the monitor is warm, despite having done the curl mod that was part of the cap kit instructions. Vert linearity seems to do nothing but scroll the screen and change size.

I've adjusted size as best as possible, but this does not look like a freshly capped monitor. It's cruddy in several ways. For one, red is next to non-existant. Adjusting DRIVE and CUTOFF pots do nothing at all. There is very faint red, so that tells me it's not cold solder joints on the input pins (am i wrong?).

Speaker has noise/hum, even when volume is set low. It's the original speaker, and original shielded monitor yet I get discoloration in the corner of the screen where the speaker it.

Looking for advice!

[SirPeale]

You said you did a cap 'kit' correct?  So I'm guessing there are caps on the board that you did *not* replace, right?

I'm betting at least one of them isn't as good as it could be.

[ChadTower]

Peale has a point... kits are becoming less and less viable as time goes on.  The other caps are dead for sure now too.  I started doing all caps a while ago.

[SirPeale]

Agreed.  If I'm capping a monitor, I do them all.

[RayB]

Someone should tell Bob.
 

[RayB]

I haven't had time to check monitor components, but while I had the cabinet open I did "poke" the anode cap. It popped right off. OH how I hoped that was the cause of my problems!! But no, with it securely in place, it made no difference.

Wired up the control panels and tested them. Both joysticks are "rotated" 90', so I will need to fix that. And "Up" doesn't do anything on either. (This used to have Tetris in it, so the wire must be disconnected at the other end).

Start buttons won't start a game (yes, I added credits) so again, they must be disconnected since Tetris didn't require start buttons.

Monitor did something else. It suddenly synced, but there was severe curl. I'm thinking of reversing the "curl" mod. It might not have been necessary to begin with....

OH and I need 14v wedge lamps for the CP lighting, but turns out I have #555s on hand and my order with Bob was sent YESTERDAY! oops.

[RayB]

Forgot to upadate and "close" this thread.

Finished everything up on the list, posted for sale and sold it a couple months ago.