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Author Topic: let's see if I can get this right  (Read 1914 times)

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crashdmj

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let's see if I can get this right
« on: June 03, 2003, 10:20:43 pm »
I'm in the controll panel building stage and want to make sure I get this down right. Have a few Q's after going through the FAQ's and example pages. For the actual construction of the CP it goes something like this:
1)wood (MDF, whatelse?? What width?)
2)laminate such as formica (contact cement to stick)
3)any artwork (printed on what material? should I get the art laminated instead so no sticking to lexan/plexi?
4)Lexan/plexi (how thick?) (Screw it all into place, mounting bolts=1/4" wood bit)
5)Drill holes for buttons etc. (Joystick holes=1 1/4" wood boring bit, buttons= 1 1/8" bit)
6)Install buttons, joystick etc.

Is it possible to have no bolts showing whether it be mounting bolts or joystick screws?
When I install T-molding (T-molding.com, using 1/16" slotting bit for router) will it make the wood to lexan/plexi look nice (cover it up)? What size T-molding do I need?

skirge66

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2003, 07:17:02 am »
there are people here that are much better at fielding these questions than me that's for sure, but I will share what I did.

1) I used 3/4" MDF seems to be the majority that I've heard suggested here. I assume you meant thickness as width would depend entirely on your layout and what you wanted etc...

2) I went the formica route myself...just score and break very easy to use, contact cement worked great, the guy at HD suggested liquid nails...I don't think I would do this though. (I drilled my holes prior to laying the formica).

3) haven't done yet.

4) not doing

5) I drilled joystick and button holes with a 1 1/8" hole saw, worked like a champ 1 1/8" is plenty big for the sticks...of course bear in mind the my joysticks are recess 1/4" into the backside of my panel. My holes I drilled prior to putting down laminate because I didn't want to try drilling through formica and adhesive and MDF. after laying my laminated I drilled 3/8" pilot holes through the laminate then cleaned to holes with a laminate finishing bit on my router (came out very nice and clean).  if you are planning to recess you sticks into the backside of the cp do the holes in the formica first, then recess the depression in the back or your bearing on the router bit won't have anything to ride on.

6) yes...put in the buttons... :P

You can mount your joysticks without the bolts showing, this is what I did: as I stated, I routered out 1/4" recesses where my joysticks mount which leaves me a 5/8" thickness. home depot carries threaded sleeves in the nuts and bolts section these are 5/8 long with an inner diameter of 1/4" I drilled my mounting holes all the way through the cp at the diameter mention on the sleeves package, tapped the sleeves in bolted down the sticks covered the holes with formica.

hope some of this is a little helpful.
skirge66

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Tiger-Heli

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2003, 08:03:08 am »

Just my opinions but -

1) 3/4" MDF is most common, 3/4" plywood would also work.  Thinner wood is an option if you don't have access to a router.
2) Formica is not required if you are using artwork and lexan.  Lexan is not required if you are using Formica without artwork.  Contact cement is good with Formica.  Another option is OSCAR's vinyl http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=7427
3) Dunno - no artistic skills
4) Generally 0.10 inch thick (whatever Home Depot stocks, thinner is probably better).  I would think the buttons would hold it down and look cleaner, but others have posted otherwise, and I've never personally tried it.
5) 1-1/8 is usually acceptable for the joystick as well.  1-1/4 might be necessary if you are using 3/4" wood with Lexan and not recessing the joystick mounts.
6a) It can be done with no bolts showing see Skirge66 comments, and my comments above.  It's just a matter of making all holes that you DON'T want to show BEFORE mounting the formica/Lexan/whatever.
6b)  Probably not.  T-molding comes in 1/2-inch (white and black) and 3/4-inch (the rainbow) (which is why most people use 3/4 MDF).  You could maybe use 5/8 MDF and offset you slot 1/8 up so the T-molding would cover both, but it might look weird (???).  Never used T-molding personally.

Regarding Skirge66's excellent comments - Definitely recommend drilling the MDF before laying the Formica.  You can also use a Dremel to cut the pilot holes out to the button hole size (if you have this and don't have a router.)  The threaded sleeves are known as T-nuts and are a better idea IMHO than wood screws from the bottom, which would work also.
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AlanS17

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2003, 11:07:56 am »
1)wood (MDF, whatelse?? What width?)
I would recommend just using wood as it's a small piece, anyways, and it provides for a sturdier panel. 3/4 is standard.
2)laminate such as formica (contact cement to stick)
Laminate is good, but expensive. A 2' X 2' square will run about 12$ at Home Depot. It's nice stuff, but pointless if you use a full overlay for your control panel. It's most useful if you don't plan on using much artwork and plexi because of its resilience.
3)any artwork (printed on what material? should I get the art laminated instead so no sticking to lexan/plexi?
As for the artwork, if you're doing a full control panel then don't bother with the formica at all (waste of money). If it's a full sheet just have it professionally printed at Kinko's. There are also guys here who can do it for you for a good price. If you're just using small pieces to decorate here and there just use photo paper or somethig that comes out well. Whatever the case, laminating the stuff is not necessary
4)Lexan/plexi (how thick?) (Screw it all into place, mounting bolts=1/4" wood bit)
For a control panel you're going to want to choose Lexan over plexi because it's so much easier to work with. I would recommend using the thinnest you can find. That's probably 1/8, but if you can find 1/16 that may be even better. The buttons actually do a really good job of holding the stuff down so you shouldn't need mounting bolts unless your buttons aren't so close to the edges of your control panel. Then I would recommend small carriage bolts because you don't want someone to be able to pull them up or knick themselves on the screw heads.
5)Drill holes for buttons etc. (Joystick holes=1 1/4" wood boring bit, buttons= 1 1/8" bit)
That size will suit you for the button holes. That size for a joystick hole, though, will be cutting it close. It may be what others us, but I would feel safer going with a slightly larger hole. Otherwise the joystick may knock around the top edge. If you were drilling metal I'd just use the same 1 1/4 hole as the buttons. But the thicker your control panel gets, the larger the hole at the top needs to be.
6)Install buttons, joystick etc.

Is it possible to have no bolts showing whether it be mounting bolts or joystick screws?
If you counter sink your bolt heads before you lay down your artwork you should be fine and you won't see the heads.
When I install T-molding (T-molding.com, using 1/16" slotting bit for router) will it make the wood to lexan/plexi look nice (cover it up)? What size T-molding do I need?
I never routed out my own groove so I couldn't tell you the size. Your t-molding should be the same thickness as your panel, though, whatever that happens to be. You may want to take into account that as you add laminate and lexan your control panel is going to get thicker so you may want to consider choosing your control panel and t-molding accordingly.


Tiger-Heli

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2003, 11:23:53 am »
Laminate is good, but expensive. A 2' X 2' square will run about 12$ at Home Depot.
<snip>
That size will suit you for the button holes. That size for a joystick hole, though, will be cutting it close. It may be what others us, but I would feel safer going with a slightly larger hole. Otherwise the joystick may knock around the top edge. If you were drilling metal I'd just use the same 1 1/4 hole as the buttons. But the thicker your control panel gets, the larger the hole at the top needs to be.
I believe it's a 2'x4' laminate at home depot for $12 (black is the only practical color they stock though).  4'x8' was about $40 in any color, but some colors had to be ordered.

Buttons must be 1-1/8.  They will almost fall through a 1-1/4 inch hole.
It's not what you take when you leave this world behind you, it's what you leave behind you when you go. - R. Travis.
When all is said and done, generally much more is SAID than DONE.

crashdmj

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2003, 12:13:50 pm »
Can someone explain to me to routing of the joystick better, for some reason I can't picture it in my head or what piece of wood you route out. This will be my first experience with mounting joysticks or anything for that matter.

If I print artwork will it stick to the lexan? Or are there ay precautions I should take to prevent moisture build up or any other problems I saw that a few guys had with mounting artwork (bubbling, bleeding etc).
Thanks everyone for the responses.
Derek

Birdtales

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2003, 12:31:46 pm »
Like this...




Coming Soon

skirge66

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2003, 12:39:51 pm »
don't know if this will help...I really need a digital camera

____________________________
                                                               not routered
                                                 
____________________________

_____________________________
                                                     
                 ______________                  routered
________|                          |_____
 

anyhow the recessed portion is slightly larger than the footprint of the joystick and set into the board 1/4"
« Last Edit: June 04, 2003, 12:41:04 pm by skirge66 »
skirge66

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crashdmj

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2003, 02:29:20 pm »
sorry Birdtales I can't see your pic, dont know if it's my comp or yours

Tiger-Heli

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2003, 02:34:34 pm »
sorry Birdtales I can't see your pic, dont know if it's my comp or yours
Pic looks great here, I think it's Crashdmj's machine.
It's not what you take when you leave this world behind you, it's what you leave behind you when you go. - R. Travis.
When all is said and done, generally much more is SAID than DONE.

AlanS17

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2003, 06:02:48 pm »
I can't see the picture either.


u_rebelscum

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2003, 06:18:02 pm »
sorry Birdtales I can't see your pic, dont know if it's my comp or yours
Pic looks great here, I think it's Crashdmj's machine.

I think it's the web server.  Prohost has a max throughput per hour.  I'm not getting the pic, and it's off one of my web sites.  ::)  *edit* I see it now.

BTW, I don't mind others linking images off of prohost, but I know lots of people and businesses wouldn't like it.  Just a heads up: people can link my images (to a point), but be careful about trying to link other people's.
Robin
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crashdmj

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Re:let's see if I can get this right
« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2003, 06:42:41 pm »
Are there any examples of routing on any of the example pages....I searched last nite for literally 3 hours (I was at work  :) ). If it makes any difference I have 2 P360s and will be getting 2 T-sticks.
Derek