Dreamcast and Mame cabinet

[ShoLouie]

The second one your looking at there is an auto switch and i don't think that would work with what you want.  That one wouldn't have a manual switch, it would use software to do the switch.  It might work, Im not 100%.  The first one would be alright, don't worry about its size, you can remove the rotary switch from it and custom mount it somewhere on your cabinet.

[moloch]

I am sorry Miller this may not completely help you, but this is what I think I am going to try.

Use an Arduino or Boarduino (which is tiny) connected to a relay and a small 5v line to make my switch. (he is using a spacebar hit to turn on a light - but the idea is the same)
http://www.glacialwanderer.com/hobbyrobotics/?p=9

I will probably not have this activated in the frontend software, but just have a small hidden button that will trip the relay and make the switch or some combo of buttons programed through the j-Pac.

I have until August to get mine up and running so I have some time to work this out.

[Miller]

Its a bit too much for me that moloch but would be still interesting to see how you get on though.

I cant see any reason why the auto switch would not work i dont believe it needs any comands from any external software and is probibly just configured to switch to the first input it recieves then when that input is powered down it moves onto the next, if thats the case then it should work.

[northerngames]

I would use the manual switch there proven stable .

[ark_ader]

Why am i going to fry my PC or DC? and why is this a lazy solution is it not being lazy by buying a switch box without attempting to do it another way?
Like i said i dont want to open the CP and start switching over controls and also bear in mind that this cab is a Naomi uni therefore space is very tight and an external switch box is ugly period.

You mount the switchbox from inside, use a dremel and make a small hole where the shaft of the switchbox will be made available and either extend the shaft of the switchbox, or get a cover that will marry the colour of your cab.  Put some decals next to it, and it will look the business.

Nobody would know.  Or you can just get an electronic switchbox and wire it to a momentary switch.  Some of those switches are very small.

I agree that manual switchboxes are unsightly, but there are ways to conceal them.

Ok ive been looking into this a bit more and it seems using a Y cable for DC and PC controls which is in affect what im doing causes grounding issues and like you have already previously posted it is more hassle than its worth. I spoke to another guy who said he had a solution using terminal block connectors but it turned out all he was doing was using male and female plugin term blocks and swapping them over when he wanted to change controls, which is not what im looking for.
So a switch box as you have righly pointed out looks like the only real viable solution in my case 

Are these the type of switch box you are talking about? http://www.amazon.com/tag/lpt%202%20port%20switch%20box%20printer%20db25%20mechanical%20manual and wire each cable to each pin?

The box above looks way too bulky so ive been looking around and do you think this one would be ok http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Compact-Parallel-Switch-Printer/dp/B00004Z6QT/ref=pd_sbs_ce_title_1 it looks ideal for my purposes as it is automated (no switching) and compact (will fit in CP) and also capable of adding more console controls in the future.
Let me know what you think thanks.

I'm sorry but it would help my analysis if I knew what space we are playing around with.  The first switch box is very flexible with regard to mounting.  There was some electronic switch boxes on some surplus sites that did the same thing but not for what you are wanting to do.

Remember you do not need the housing if you have cramped space issues.  You would use your cab as the housing, and besides the ports on the back of the switchbox would be moot anyway.

It is a shame that there was no high tech solution for you.  The DC does not have a hard drive, so some user interaction will be needed eventually. 

I commend you on your efforts though to find another way, but sometimes the old ways are usually the best.   

[Miller]

Do you think the auto switch box would work?

[ShoLouie]

I wouldn't take the chance on it, i was going to try a centronic 36 pin switch but i don't know if they are all seperate lines or not, since about 10 of the pins are grounds.  Otherwise the normal parallel port switch will do just fine.

[moloch]

Just a quick thought is that if you can replace the switch in one of those boxes with a relay you can control it with a button from somewhere on the cabinet.

[Miller]

Thats what i will have to do moloch if the auto option does not work but i am going to give the auto option a go first unless i hear a definate no it wont work off someone as its the ideal solution for my purposes.

[ShoLouie]

The switch in these boxes are rotary switches, which would be very difficult to replace with relays.... you would acually need 25 relays to do it, a bit too many haha.  An electrical way of turn the rotary switch would be ideal if you want to use a button to switch the connection.