Introduction and Question

[TheGameAh]

Hey guys.  Just wanted to introduce myself.  I've been reading the boards for a while now after getting interested in this hobby, but haven't posted until now.

I have a question, I'm sure a simple one, for you guys.  My expertise is in the computer side of things, my woodworking skills are non existant.  I have an old gutted cabinet I'm going to fix up and a used X-Arcade stick.  The X-Arcade stick doesn't fit very well into the cabinet.  It sticks out like a sore thumb.  My plan was to remove all the buttons and joysticks from the X-Arcade.  I was going to get a sheet of MDF and cut it down to nicely fit the cabinet.  Then simply transfer the buttons and joysticks to the new panel.

Can this be done?  And if it can be done, exactly what tools would I need?  I've read plenty, but I'm still a wood idiot.  I assume I'd just need clamps to hold the X-Arcade panel to the MDF and maybe a router to punch the holes?  Thanks ahead of time.

[thedemo]

Sure it can be done, in fact thats what I did on my first cab. I bought an X-Arcade with the intention of using it in the cab and then realized it was too small for myself and another person to play at the same time side by side. A friend of mine an I made a completely new CP that was more our size and transferred the buttons, joysticks and interface to the new CP.

If your gonna use the X-Arcade CP as a templete clamp it to the new MDF and use a 1 1/8" spade bit to drill the holes for the buttons till the point starts to peak through on the back side. Then flip it over and finish drilling it from the backside.(makes and nice clean hole that way) Then mark the openings for the joysticks and cut them out using a recipricating saw or a router with a straight cut bit.

The only problem is that the X-Arcade parts were made to be used on a 1/2" or 5/8"MDF. I had to use 3/4" MDF so I had to route out the backside of the new CP around the buttons and joysticks to compensate for the shallow parts. But it will work.

Good luck

[Tiger-Heli]

If your gonna use the X-Arcade CP as a templete clamp it to the new MDF and use a 1 1/8" spade bit to drill the holes for the buttons till the point starts to peak through on the back side. Then flip it over and finish drilling it from the backside.(makes and nice clean hole that way) Then mark the openings for the joysticks and cut them out using a recipricating saw or a router with a straight cut bit.

Good advice by thedemo.

Another option is to put some scrap wood under the MDF when you drill the holes.  This will keep the bottom of the hole neat and keep you from having to flip the panel over and drill everything twice.  (Then again, who cares if the back side of the hole is sloppy, it will never be seen).

Also, you can probably use the spade bit for the joystick holes as well.

[TheGameAh]

Thanks for the responses guys.  Now that I think about it, I may drill out the first player side, move the template over, then drill out the second player to give more room between the two.

Demo, why did you have to use 3/4"?  You're saying that if I use 1/2" or 5/8" I won't have to make any special adjustments?  If that's the case I'll grab a sheet of that instead.

What router bits would I need for the joystick holes?

[Tiger-Heli]

Thanks for the responses guys.  Now that I think about it, I may drill out the first player side, move the template over, then drill out the second player to give more room between the two.

Demo, why did you have to use 3/4"?  You're saying that if I use 1/2" or 5/8" I won't have to make any special adjustments?  If that's the case I'll grab a sheet of that instead.

What router bits would I need for the joystick holes?

3/4" is pretty much a standard for arcade cabs, but 1/2 or 5/8 will work fine.  One concern is T-molding for the edges, which is common (lots of colors) in 3/4 but also available (white and black) in 1/2.

No router bits needed, just make a 1-1/8 hole with the spade bit.  You could then enlarge the hole with a Dremel or straight cut router bit, if required.

[TheGameAh]

Thanks Tiger.  I don't think I'll be using an T-Molding at all.  I'm not really making a new box, it's really just a single sheet of MDF that I'll mount right inside the cab.  It won't stick out like most panels do.

It's pretty funny, two weeks ago I didn't even know what T-Molding was.

[RedSquirrel]

heh what is T molding? I been wondering this for a few days.

Also, yeah I want to get the X Arcade for when I build my cab, but it does look kinda small and a little bit nasty. I was wondering if I could open it and transfer it to another panel that I could make.

I the xarcade controller easy to open (and remove the bits?).

How do you stop the buttons from falling out of the mdf (the new panel) does it screw in or do you glue it etc?

Thanks

[Erik]

heh what is T molding? I been wondering this for a few days.

Also, yeah I want to get the X Arcade for when I build my cab, but it does look kinda small and a little bit nasty. I was wondering if I could open it and transfer it to another panel that I could make.

I the xarcade controller easy to open (and remove the bits?).

How do you stop the buttons from falling out of the mdf (the new panel) does it screw in or do you glue it etc?

Thanks

T-molding is the plastic strip that goes all along the edges of the cabinet.  It inserts into a channel you'd have to route into the edge of the board if you were building your own cabinet.  

Don't know how hard it is to get into the X-Arcade, but buttons are held on with nuts in the back.  They don't screw into the board, they just drop into the holes you drill, then you thread the nut on the back to hold them tight

[Tiger-Heli]

heh what is T molding? I been wondering this for a few days.

http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/home.php

If you look at most cabs there's a strip of vinyl that goes around the edges to keep it from splitting.  That's T-molding.  But you have to cut a groove around the outside edge of the wood to install it.

Also, yeah I want to get the X Arcade for when I build my cab, but it does look kinda small and a little bit nasty. I was wondering if I could open it and transfer it to another panel that I could make.

Ermmm, pardon my bluntness, but . . .  Using an old X-arcade that you already have to make a Control Panel is not a bad idea.  BUYING an X-arcade to gut for a CP is silly (unless you specifically want their interface board for connection to console games).  I know you wanted to avoid wiring, but you have to unwire everything from the X-arcade to move it anyway, and if it's soldered, you will have more work than starting from scratch with quick disconnects.  And the aftermarket encoders are better quality.  And you can get whatever color buttons/sticks you want.  Plenty of people here to help you out also.

Then there's cost - X-arcade - $150 ($110 on E-bay sometimes).

BYOAC - Joysticks and buttons - X-arcade - $20.00 (black only) (www.therealbobroberts.com, happ joysticks - $8.50 each, $17; Happ buttons 18@ $1.15 - $20.7, 1P and 2P start buttons ($3.20)  Total - $40)
Encoder - KeyWiz Standard - $33 www.groovygamegear.com
Wire and stuff (connectors, quickdisconnects) - $15.00
Wood - $5
Shipping charges - Approx $20

Total BYOAC - $93 to 113

I the xarcade controller easy to open (and remove the bits?).

Dunno, I'm pretty sure the bottom unscrews.  I'm pretty sure everything removes pretty easily.  If the wires are soldered to the buttons that's a fair amount of work to undo that, though.

How do you stop the buttons from falling out of the mdf (the new panel) does it screw in or do you glue it etc?

http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/9100l.jpg

The buttons use a nylon nut (PAL nut) (the black ring in the pic above) to hold them to the wood.  You have to remove the microswitch, screw the button in, and then reinstall the microswitch.

[pmc]

If your gonna use the X-Arcade CP as a templete clamp it to the new MDF and use a 1 1/8" spade bit to drill the holes for the buttons till the point starts to peak through on the back side. Then flip it over and finish drilling it from the backside.(makes and nice clean hole that way) Then mark the openings for the joysticks and cut them out using a recipricating saw or a router with a straight cut bit.

Good advice by thedemo.

Another option is to put some scrap wood under the MDF when you drill the holes.  This will keep the bottom of the hole neat and keep you from having to flip the panel over and drill everything twice.  (Then again, who cares if the back side of the hole is sloppy, it will never be seen).

Also, you can probably use the spade bit for the joystick holes as well.

I just did this a couple of days ago and I found that there was minimal need for any of these precautions. I used a new paddle bit which probably helped (sharp). Don't push too hard and don't run your drill at the maximum speed -- the MDF will cut like butter. Push a tiny bit harder and instead of dust you'll get curls. You'll feel when it's about to break through. Back-off on the pressure so you don't get much tear-out. There will be some tear-out on the bottom. But once you mount the buttons, the nut that holds the buttons in place will cover the tear-out. I also used the paddle bit to cut the Joystick holes. No problem there either.

My end-product looks perfect and I didn't even bother flipping, using scrap-wood, or worrying too much about it. Of course, YMMV.

I did notice that when drilling smaller holes -- say 1/4" to 3/8", that I'd get more tear-out. The surface of the MDF on the bottom side just sort of cracks and pushes into a tee-pee. Flipping over and re-drilling from the bottom cleaned-it up pretty well. The moral, to me anyway, is to slow down just before penetrating the other side to make sure the bit does the cutting rather than allowing the pressure to just push the hole through. Stuff sure doesn't mill like pine.

Now if I can only get the technique for perfect bevel cuts down!

[RedSquirrel]

heh what is T molding? I been wondering this for a few days.

http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/home.php

If you look at most cabs there's a strip of vinyl that goes around the edges to keep it from splitting.  That's T-molding.  But you have to cut a groove around the outside edge of the wood to install it.

Also, yeah I want to get the X Arcade for when I build my cab, but it does look kinda small and a little bit nasty. I was wondering if I could open it and transfer it to another panel that I could make.

Ermmm, pardon my bluntness, but . . .  Using an old X-arcade that you already have to make a Control Panel is not a bad idea.  BUYING an X-arcade to gut for a CP is silly (unless you specifically want their interface board for connection to console games).  I know you wanted to avoid wiring, but you have to unwire everything from the X-arcade to move it anyway, and if it's soldered, you will have more work than starting from scratch with quick disconnects.  And the aftermarket encoders are better quality.  And you can get whatever color buttons/sticks you want.  Plenty of people here to help you out also.

Then there's cost - X-arcade - $150 ($110 on E-bay sometimes).

BYOAC - Joysticks and buttons - X-arcade - $20.00 (black only) (www.therealbobroberts.com, happ joysticks - $8.50 each, $17; Happ buttons 18@ $1.15 - $20.7, 1P and 2P start buttons ($3.20)  Total - $40)
Encoder - KeyWiz Standard - $33 www.groovygamegear.com
Wire and stuff (connectors, quickdisconnects) - $15.00
Wood - $5
Shipping charges - Approx $20

Total BYOAC - $93 to 113

I the xarcade controller easy to open (and remove the bits?).

Dunno, I'm pretty sure the bottom unscrews.  I'm pretty sure everything removes pretty easily.  If the wires are soldered to the buttons that's a fair amount of work to undo that, though.

How do you stop the buttons from falling out of the mdf (the new panel) does it screw in or do you glue it etc?

http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/9100l.jpg

The buttons use a nylon nut (PAL nut) (the black ring in the pic above) to hold them to the wood.  You have to remove the microswitch, screw the button in, and then reinstall the microswitch.

To be honest, while yes Id like to make the panel from fresh, I havent a clue how this ipac works and how all the buttons and joysticks connect. It's just a little scary to me!! I just thought if I opened the x-arcade, i could pretty much just unscrew where the old buttons where, and take the whole lot out ready to transfer into a new panel. I dont see why it would be soldered in? But in any case at least I would know how it started out like. Ill check some guides too..

[Tiger-Heli]

To be honest, while yes Id like to make the panel from fresh, I havent a clue how this ipac works and how all the buttons and joysticks connect. It's just a little scary to me!!

http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac2.html  See drawing halfway down the page if it doesn't display here.  Other encoders connect basically the same way.

You do have to decide which button will be button 1, and maybe what code you want each button to send, but that's really an advantage, when you really think about it.

I just thought if I opened the x-arcade, i could pretty much just unscrew where the old buttons where, and take the whole lot out ready to transfer into a new panel.

No, at the very least you would need to label which wire on their encoder goes to which button (maybe two wires per button b/c I don't think it's common ground), remove the wires from the switches, remove the switches from the buttons, remove the buttons from the panel, and then put it back together.  And that's assuming it's not soldered.

I dont see why it would be soldered in?

I don't know that it is.  I said it might be.  And it might be b/c in a mass produced product that you don't plan to repeatedly disassemble, soldering is a more secure (electrically) connection, plus being cheaper and faster.  Time is money in the for-profit world.

[RedSquirrel]

I must apologise, I think ive hijacked the original owners thread!

I think Ive actually decided to make my own now. After a good half an hour looking at the ipac site, it doesnt look half as hard as I thought it would. Infact it looks quite easy. The ipac board lists what each function does doesnt it for the wire to connect to?

What is the inputs on the right though? (The top ones are for P1 and P2 right). I also like it I can buy everything from the ipac to make things easier. The hardest part now seems to be making the actual controller in the mdf.

[u_rebelscum]

I just thought if I opened the x-arcade, i could pretty much just unscrew where the old buttons where, and take the whole lot out ready to transfer into a new panel.

No, at the very least you would need to label which wire on their encoder goes to which button (maybe two wires per button b/c I don't think it's common ground), remove the wires from the switches, remove the switches from the buttons, remove the buttons from the panel, and then put it back together.  And that's assuming it's not soldered.

Umm, I can take the switches off & put them back onto my happs buttons while they're still wired.  (3/4" boards, the horizontal switch buttons, & quick snap connectors.)  Maybe the shorter xarcade buttons will make this harder, but I think it still would be possible.  The unwiring-rewiring you talk about would be the hardest part, but I don't know if that step is really needed.  *shrug*

I wonder if the original poster had to unwire the switches?

[TheGameAh]

Howdy again guys.  Just wanted to let you guys know who was wondering.  Last night I took apart my X-Arcade.  I know everyone here loves building their own, but they did do a really good job.  They did use quick connects instead of soldering, which is real nice for my moving plans.

[Tiger-Heli]

I must apologise, I think ive hijacked the original owners thread!

Not badly, though, we're still debating moving X-arcade controls to a cabinet, so we're still somewhat On-T.  Before I go on, I agree with Urebel, prolly you could remove the switches without disconnecting the wiring.  I should have seen that :-(.

What is the inputs on the right though? (The top ones are for P1 and P2 right).

The top are P1 and P2 and two Ground terminals (either one or both can be used.  They're really the same terminal.)  The right side is Coin 1, Coin 2, Start 1, Start 2, and Buttons 7 and 8 for Player 1 or Player 2 (?).  It's labelled on the board, I just can't read it from the hi-res pic on the site.  

I think Ive actually decided to make my own now. After a good half an hour looking at the ipac site, it doesnt look half as hard as I thought it would. Infact it looks quite easy. The ipac board lists what each function does doesnt it for the wire to connect to?

Yes it does, but that doesn't mean you have to use it that way.  The easiest thing for a beginner would be to wire it up as shown, and it does follow a MAME-friendly pattern (for example, Coin 2 on the I-PAC sends "6" so MAME is happy. But let's say you are using eight buttons per player and don't need a Coin 2 input, but want a dedicated Pause key.  You can either set MAME up so Pause is "6" or you can reprogram the I-PAC so the Coin 2 terminal generates "P".

Hopefully I didn't lose you there ;-(

I also like it I can buy everything from the ipac to make things easier. The hardest part now seems to be making the actual controller in the mdf.

Seems like I said that in a previous post ;-)  You also might want to check out the KeyWiz from www.groovygamegear.com, once you are more comfortable with encoders in general.

[Tiger-Heli]

Howdy again guys.  Just wanted to let you guys know who was wondering.  Last night I took apart my X-Arcade.  I know everyone here loves building their own, but they did do a really good job.  They did use quick connects instead of soldering, which is real nice for my moving plans.

I'm not as anti-buy-your-own as some of the website people.  If you already have an X-arcade, by all means use it.  (And by gutting and moving it, you are building your own.)  Also, if the X-arcade does exactly what you want, then buy one and be happy with it.  I just didn't like RedSquirrel's idea of buying one specifically to gut and install (not cost-effective) IMHO.