Can you route Lexan?

[crackbone]

I swear I'm close to shutting up... really!

Anyway, rather than hack a hole in my lexan with spade bits for my trackball, I was wondering if it would be possible to route it out with a table router.....  it's 1/8" thick, for reference...

Thanks,

Crack

[OSCAR]

Absolutely.

The only way I cut lexan is with a router and a good straight bit.  It leaves a good, clean edge and there is no risk of screwing it up (assuming you use a guide).

There are other methods of cutting lexan as well, but I always use a router whenever possible.

[Bill_S]

I used a router with a laminate bit.  Worked like a charm.

[TazMan]

I also used a router - both straight bit and laminate bit - they both leave a nice clean edge.  Much better than the edge I got using a jigsaw with a plastic cutting blade.

[pmc]

The only way I cut lexan is with a router and a good straight bit.  It leaves a good, clean edge and there is no risk of screwing it up (assuming you use a guide).

There are other methods of cutting lexan as well, but I always use a router whenever possible.

My panel is already cut (I made it as prototype but it's apparant that it'll become the final version). So I have 3/4" MDF with holes in it. When I add the Lexan later, I intended to clamp it under the CP and use the CP as a guide. I was going to drive a spade bit through the CP holes and into the Lexan. Suggestions on how to accomplish this with a router (assuming the spade-bit is a bad idea)?

[Brax]

You use a straight bit made for templates. It has a bearing at the top of the bit that will guide you around your control panel with the precut holes.

[OSCAR]

See http://www.skum.org/bartop/construction.htm for some pics.  I drill the holes in the cp first, then use those holes as a template for the plexi/lexan.

[pmc]

You use a straight bit made for templates. It has a bearing at the top of the bit that will guide you around your control panel with the precut holes.

OK. I have a 1/2" shank with a ball bearing roller. So I buy a straight cutting bit, clamp the lexan to the bottom of the CP, and then plunge through the existing holes and into the lexan. The bearing rolls around the bottom edge of the button holes while the cutter removes the lexan below that. Correct?

But Oscar says:

See http://www.skum.org/bartop/construction.htm for some pics.  I drill the holes in the cp first, then use those holes as a template for the plexi/lexan.

Those pics show the lexan on top. How can the CP holes function as a template if the template is on the bottom? I'm not understanding this variant. I (obviously) have only owned a router for a week now so it's just not obvious to me.

I'm buying the lexan today, but I won't install it until I get the artwork figured out. I'll certainly plan on using my router to cut the holes as it seems like it'll work great.

How do you clean up burrs?

[u_rebelscum]

You use a straight bit made for templates. It has a bearing at the top of the bit that will guide you around your control panel with the precut holes.

OK. I have a 1/2" shank with a ball bearing roller. So I buy a straight cutting bit, clamp the lexan to the bottom of the CP, and then plunge through the existing holes and into the lexan. The bearing rolls around the bottom edge of the button holes while the cutter removes the lexan below that. Correct?

But Oscar says:

See http://www.skum.org/bartop/construction.htm for some pics.  I drill the holes in the cp first, then use those holes as a template for the plexi/lexan.

Those pics show the lexan on top. How can the CP holes function as a template if the template is on the bottom? I'm not understanding this variant. I (obviously) have only owned a router for a week now so it's just not obvious to me.

Some bits have the bearing above the "blades", some have it below.  The ones above are usually a little more expensive since you can still plunge route with them.

With the ones with the bearing below, you need to pre-drill a hole large enough for the bit to fit through.  The router will slide on top of the lexan this way, so watch out for scratching it.    I advise the one with the bearing on top because of the chance of scratching.

[VMJ Team]

Another note...note too much of a chance of this happening, but I managed to do so on one of piece....keep the router moving, (there is a suggested rate-feed for plastics, but don't know it off the top of my head)...I was taking my time around an edge to make sure it was nice and square and the bit generated enough heat in that spot to warp (melt) the plexi....

[Pixelhugger]

I suggest you get a FORSTNER bit for the holes. It'd be cheaper/faster/easier than a new router bit and does a perfectly smooth job. Just don't use the spade. As far as the trackball hole I routed a bull nose around my trackball hole using the CP hole as a guide for the bearing. I've posted this before cuz I'm just so dammmmn proud- the key is to polish it after routing. 200 grit sandpaper -lightly- then 400 grit then plastic polishing compound on a fabric wheel on your drill. Gives it a clearer than glass finish! This is 1/4" thick Lexan, so doing the same on 1/8" may be a much different look - but for what it's worth here it is...