Curved portions of the cabinets

[Vash]

I really like the subtle curves that Knievel used in Neon Mame http://www.knievelkustoms.com/neonmame.htm, but how much of that is attributed to the cutting and how much to just the t-molding?  Right now I'm drawing out my designs on MDF, so I need to know how much of a curve to cut into the board to get it to not look super straight and angled, but not incredibly curvy either.  Does t-molding add a natural curve to angles?

[RoninEditor]

I always preface everything with saying that I know only a fraction as some of these guys on here who've done a ton of cabinets... but t-molding is only a curvy as the wood it 'sticks' to.  It comes down to really good cutting and sanding.  You have to get the right jigsaw blade to cut those angles... obviously a wide blade can only really turn as wide as itself... there are blades that you can get anyway which are about 3/8 wide, specifically designed to cut curves.  They are thin though, so they bend easy, especially when hot.

But you can cut a sharp corner then use a electric sander to round it off, it's all about patience.  As a teenager, I used to sell a ton of skimboards to tourists (as my summer job, haha), ones that I handbuilt and I got pretty decent with a jigsaw, so cutting curves gets easier and easier with time.  But don't try to mask things with your cab, take the time and do it right because you'll kick yourself down the line and want to go back and do it right but it'll be too late.

Also, when you sand your cabinet wall (as well as your 'width' supports, panels, etc.) stack them and sand them together, for instance, if one comes out 26" and the other is 25 5/8", and the other is 25 3/4", sand them ALL down to the shortest width (while stacked on top of each other).  You can trace one on the other and it won't come out exactly as you planned it so sanding is where you make up the ground, make sure you were a mask though, you don't want to be breathing resin into your lungs.

[RetroACTIVE]

For me personally... I use templates to get nice curves.... I draw the profile on 1/4" inch template material (masonry board.. etc) and cut curves with jig saw... then sand smooth... (easier to sand 1/4" material).

Fix the template to your cabinet material and cut the sides with a router!  Voila! You will get perfectly matched clean curves every time... with virtually no sanding the finished product.  Before cutting the material go around the whole assembly and use a jig (on curves) circular (on straight) edges to remove excess cabinet material, leaving about 1/8" extra beyond the template so the routing is easier and safer.

 

[Vash]

So if I have complete straight angles, when I put the t-molding on, will I have to separate it into two pieces for each joint, or will it look naturally smooth?  I'm really just trying to get the effect that Knievel had with his cabs, not something ultra curvy, or even pronouncedly curvy. 

[RetroACTIVE]

So if I have complete straight angles, when I put the t-molding on, will I have to separate it into two pieces for each joint, or will it look naturally smooth?  I'm really just trying to get the effect that Knievel had with his cabs, not something ultra curvy, or even pronouncedly curvy. 

Oh... I get what your are asking now...

You would not want to cut your t-molding... to get sharp turns you need to cut a portion the spline behind it off so that it can bend around.  T-molding is very flexible and will achieve the affect you are after..

[dmworking247]

With my cabinets, where there is a 90' angle in the wood I trace an Australian 20c coin (about 50% larger surface area than a US quarter). That makes it so much easier for T-molding etc to curve around.

That said, there are times when curves aren't practical like at the back of a control panel surface. As has been suggested, you should cut a "V" shape into the spine of the T-molding where it has to turn a tight corner (you do not/should not cut the tmolding surface itself).

[Lutus]

Or try cutting multiple little teeth like on a sawtooth blad into the SPINE of the T-molding.  Like everyone else is saying, no need to cut the FRONT of the molding.

[SavannahLion]

A picture, like from T-Molding might help illustrate the idea. You want to cut enough out of the spine to bend or fold the T-molding, but not so much that there isn't enough to grip the wood and loosen up.



I did see one really good page that illustrated the different techniques and reasons for cutting the spine a certain way, such as tight 90 degree bends all the way up to vast sweeping curves. Can't seem to find it now.