Wiring Question - Little Complicated

[joshlindem]

I spent most of yesterday on my day off reading post after post and none really talked to what I'm trying to do.  So here we go.....

I have a used Capcom XMen vs. Street Fighter game cabinet.  I've already set up the PC to connect to a TV and everything MAME works.  I'm currently connecting the current arcade controls into a JPAC unit into the computer.  But there are (3) things I'm unsure about doing at this time.

Sound
I see that the arcade machine's original speakers are still there.  How do I go about connecting those into my computers 'sound out' port? Is there a way to connect the wires to a "sound jack"?
And as a slight addition to this question...if I am able to easily connect the original speakers into the computer... is there a way I could put a volume switch into that line?  I was thinking I would have a volume knob sitting on top next to the power switch.... for those late nights I don't want to wake the wife and kid.

Lighting
The original marquee lighting is still there, and I'd like to figure out how to tie the lighting into one of the computer's spare power connectors.
I'd like to do this as well for the coin slots lighting as well.

Power Switch
I've been reading on how people are tying everything into a single power switch.  I'm going to check the BIOS on my computer to make sure it has a "power on after failure" feature. If not I read how to put a wire between two connections on the ATX power connector to do the same thing.
If I tie all of this into a single power strip.... would it be pretty easy to connect the arcade machine's current power switch (flip switch up top) and replace the power strips power button?  This way extending the switch really.  Is that feasible?


If it wasn't obvious, I'm not a electrician (but have done my small share of wiring and soldering), so if anyone has done this or knows of directions on how to do it, I'd be very interested.

[Ginsu Victim]

Sound:
I don't know what you have in yours, but normally, I've seen 8 ohm speakers in arcade cabinets. Most PC speakers tend to be 4 ohm, so if that's the case, you can't use those 8 ohms straight from your soundcard. (At least, not that I'm aware)

Lighting:
I just yanked out the old lighting fixture and put a florescent fixture from walmart in there for $8

Power:
If you have "power on after failure", just follow my directions in the power button thread on the main forum. Only one of the many easy ways to handle everything.

[DeLuSioNal29]

Sound:  You can always modify a pair of 2.1 speakers and wire the speakers from the cabinet into them.  Just make sure that you buy a pair that has a volume switch built in as a separate cord and not in the speakers themselves.  Also make sure the the ohms match from the 2.1 speakers to your cabinet speakers.  Car speakers are usually 4 ohms so you may want to consider buying a cheap pair to replace the old speakers in the cabinet anyway.  Since you want to be able to use headphones during quiet hours, I would suggest getting one with a headphone jack built into the volume cord.  You can mount this mini controller on the side or even underneath your control panel.

Here is a link to such speakers just to give you an idea of what to look for: 
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Premium-3-Piece-Computer-Speaker/dp/B0001WNKBI/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&s=pc&qid=1206469846&sr=1-49

Also, you can watch a video of how Kevin Steele from Retroblast.com modified his:  http://www.retroblast.com/Videos/Wiring-Up-An-Arcade-Cabinet-Sound-System.php

Lighting:  I had the original marquee lighting in there as well, but I ended up removing it since it was too much of a hassle.  Instead, I went the LED route and bought a new one here:  http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=307
You simply connect it to the computer's power supply (12v yellow wire and black ground wires).  That way when the computer is powered up the light will turn on as well.

Power switch:  I recommend that you use the 2 pins on your motherboard that are connected to the front button.  Simply remove the 2 wires that are connected to the front power button and connect them (using long wires) to the top of your arcade where the other switch is.  You MUST get a momentary switch in order for it to work though.  The switch that is already there will not work.  It must be momentary to match the PC.

Radio Shack stocks these:  http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062496&cp=&sr=1&origkw=momentary+switch&kw=momentary+switch&parentPage=search

The reason I recommend using the motherboard and not simply using the switch connected to a power strip is because you want the PC to shut down smoothly (especially if running Windows).  The button on the PC does this well and shuts it down safely as opposed to power being cut off abruptly.

Last but not least, I felt that a "Smartstrip" was the best thing I ever bought for my cabinet.  You simply plug your computer in the special strip's blue port.  Everything else that you want powered off can be plugged in the other outlets that are white.  (Reds are reserved for stuff that you want constant power to such as routers, etc).  When you press the power on top of the cabinet, the Smartstrip does the rest:  it detects that the computer is off and shuts the rest of the stuff that is plugged in the strip off automatically (except for the special red colored outlets).  I have my monitor and speakers plugged into the powerstrip and they turn off when the PC is shutdown using the button (which also turns off my marquee since it's powered by the PC power supply).  One button to turn on, one button to turn off.  Easy.

I found the cheapest bargain for the powerstrip here at Amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Autoswitching-Technology-SCG3/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1206470714&sr=1-1

Hope this helped!

~ DeLuSioNaL

[joshlindem]

Thanks guys, that proved to be very useful.

Lighting
After reading the suggestion link from DeLuSioNal29, I'm thinking I'll go the route of LED, or PC Cathode lights.  I opened up the marquee area last night and see it's a single 16" florescent bulb, but with the heat in the cabinet (plus lower power consumption I'm thinking) the LED or cathodes may prove to be a better idea.  And with just a couple of those PC power extensions I can easily siphon off the PC power.

Sound
Hmm, this is a little trickier.  I was lucky enough to get the original manual for the cabinet and got excited when I saw it describe a red/white connectors for the sound.  Sadly, after closer inspection I don't actually have those connectors. *drats*
Sadly I don't know the difference between an 8 ohm wire and a 4 ohm wire.  I'm guessing it's probably size?
Anyways, I'm thinking I may have to attempt to take apart some computer speakers and mod it into the top of the case. Similar to the video link I was shown, but just using the PC speakers.

Power Switch
One thing I did happen to forget to mention is that I'm going the route of DOS/AracdeOS/DMame.  So with this in mind I can easily just turn on.....turn off....turn on....etc.
Will that make a difference to your suggestions guys?  As mentioned previously the original arcade box power switch up top appears to be a flip switch (not the push button you suggested).  Is wiring that switch to extend the power bar's power switch still recommended against?
I see lots of people recommend that pushbutton power switch.  Is it better than the flip switch, or just preference?

[Ginsu Victim]

Read about Ohms:
http://www.marktaw.com/recording/Electronics/OhmsAmpsandSpeakers.html

[DeLuSioNal29]

Lighting
LEDs or Cathodes are great for the heat factor, the ease of installation and they never have to be changed out again for the life of the arcade (unlike a florescent bulb).  To siphon off the PC power, I wanted to avoid splicing into my power supply directly, so I purchased this adapter which worked out well:  http://www.xoxide.com/pci-power-bracket1.html

Then I used a spare molex Y splitter I had lying around the house and spliced into that instead.  Then after the splice was done, I simply plugged it into the connector on the outside of the case.  This works very well if you ever want to work on the PC and remove it from the arcade unit.  You don't have to worry about cutting your splices that are going directly to the Power supply.  You simply disconnect it from the back.   

Sound
Actually the ohm thing is very simple - also known as speaker impedance.  Just make sure the ohms match.  For example, in car stereo speakers descriptions it will usually note if they are 4 ohm.  The same goes for computer speakers which should also be 4 ohm.  Then simply splice the wire (take the computer speaker itself apart and then disconnect the wires for the speakers and wire them up to the 4 ohm car stereo speakers.  Mixing differents ohms is a no no.  4 ohms require more power (lower number means higher resistance) so connecting them to 8 ohm devices or vice versa will either kill the speakers or the amp in the system (over time of course).

Power Switch
Assuming it's a fairly new form factor computer, I believe you can only use the momentary push button to power it up or shut it down.  Usually ATX type motherboards have this.  You can tell what kind of button you have by the sound of it when you press it.  If it's a momentary push button, you don't hear anything when you press the power button.  If it's not, you will hear a "clicking" toggle switch and the button will stay in when pressed.  If pressed again, it will click and then pop back out.  Based on this info, if you use a normal switch on an ATX motherboard it will simulate the button as if you are holding down the power button since it will always be making a constant closed connection to the motherboard.
As far as DOS goes, it will still shut down just fine.  Again, the issue is really what form factor your motherboard is and what type of switch is already there.

~ DeLuSioNaL

[hsstie]

I found the cheapest bargain for the powerstrip here at Amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Autoswitching-Technology-SCG3/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1206470714&sr=1-1

Hope this helped!

~ DeLuSioNaL

Good writeup delusional, just wanted to add,  the same powerstrip is 5 bucks cheaper if you order direct through the manufacturer website since they offer free shipping.

http://catalog.bitsltd.us/power_strips/