Experience with Modular Control Panels

[Heavy6r]

New guy here.  Getting ready to start buidling my first cab and I'm planning on using a modular control panel and wanted to hear folks opinion/experiences with the various ways of "locking" the panels into place (i.e. using a front side-in, dowels, roller cabinet locks, or velcro).

From a connection standpoint, it sounds like the way to go is to use RJ45 connections and CAT5 cabling along with USB for analog controllers.  Is that true?

Thanks for the help!

[Ginsu Victim]

Have you seen Doc's Modular Mame?
http://beersmith.com/mame/index.htm

[Heavy6r]

Yes,  his design was the one that 'inspired' me to go with a modular CP.  I'm just curious to hear people's feelings on the various designs that are out there, such as Doc's.

[Ginsu Victim]

I'm not aware of many people that have made the effort.

EDIT: Look below at how wrong I am!

[NoOne=NBA=]

I started out years ago with swappable panels, held in place by cabinet locks.
That worked pretty well for the full panels, but there was a bit of slop to them.
You could bend the catches to minimize it, but it would return after awhile.

After seeing how many duplicate controls I was going to have to buy, I swapped over to a modular system.
I tried the cabinet catches, but didn't like them because they were more prone to coming loose when the remainder of the CP wasn't being held down by your button hand.

I experimented with Velcro, but didn't like the way it wiggled around.
My cab was fully built, so I didn't have the ability to retrofit a tilt-in system.
I couldn't get the router where it need to go to do it, so I opted for a bolt-in system.

The bolt-in system is slower than I'd really like, but very secure.
I tend to fixate on a single game for awhile, so I don't do swapovers after every game.
That is the biggest complaint I've heard from others about modular.
They want a one-panel fits all solution, to avoid having to swap.
I prefer having exactly the right controls for the game I want to play.

As far as control swaps go, RJ45 is definitely the way to go for that.
You can connect/disconnect the modules with one hand, which leaves the other free to hold the module.
The analog swapovers are a bit more problematic.
I put an RJ45 jack between my mouse hack and my controls, but you need to disconnect the USB cable before disconnecting the RJ45, or you risk causing a surge on the power/ground lines.
The other problem is that you have to relaunch MAME if you swap controls, because it only initializes what's there when it launches.
All of the problems are far outweighed by having the proper controls, and ONLY the proper controls, for the game you want to play, IMO.

[telengard]

I also screw down my modules for stability.  With a handheld power screwdriver it doesn't take long at all to do a new setup.  I also use RJ 45 cables for my modules since you only need to use 2 hands to insert remove a module.  I had used molex connectors at one point but you need to have 3 hands to do those.   

I'm a little too rough w/ joysticks to not have them locked down w/ threaded screws.  I also didn't want to "baby" anything so having things be really tight and locked down eliminates that.

My setup is in my signature if you are looking for examples.

~telengard

[weisshaupt]

You may want to look in the wiki and my project thread (click on my WWW link)  at my take on the modular panels. I got them to work very well using a Doc-like slot and a velcro "shoelace" approach.  No slop at all in the panels, and my 6 year old son can change them out.  The doors that hold the the CCFL lights, have a little more slop than I like, but you don't notice it while playing.. I have also done a sketchup that I think has a better mounting mechanism for them, especially if you are NOT going to side light them like I did.

Modular panels are the way to go in my opinion - No reaching around other controls.  put the button on either side for the south paws,  and add more controls as you want/can afford them.

I also used Doc's RJ45 method- it rocks.

[NoOne=NBA=]

With a handheld power screwdriver it doesn't take long at all to do a new setup.

I'd second that.
I used furniture bolts on my panels, that have a big flat head, with a hex-shaped hole on them.
With a hex bit in the screwdriver, I can swap out a panel in under 30 seconds.

I had used molex connectors at one point but you need to have 3 hands to do those.

My swappable panels used 9-pin DIN connectors.
You need 3 hands for those too.
Pretty much anything that has wire at both ends will need 3 hands to work.

[Paul Olson]

Mine is also held down with screws and connected with cat5. Swap times could be faster, but it really is not much of an issue. Maybe adds a minute (or 2 if I'm slow) to the swap. I would not give up the feel of a completely secure panel for a faster swap, it is not even a consideration.

Having the right controls makes the experience. I finally found a joystick that I can play Donkey Kong with and I love playing my favorite game again. I am using a wico 4-way, and I should have my nintendo stick going next week. My scores are in the 80,000s now, I don't think I got over 20,000 with any of my other sticks. Hopefully I will start getting past the 3rd elevators with the nintendo stick.

Tron is only Tron with the real stick, and I would not even want to play it without it.

Modular is the only choice for me, and I think it is a good choice for some people. It will be too much work for most people probably. There are a LOT of panels that need to be made if you want the correct controls for a lot of games. Storing all of the panels definitely takes up some space. There are some glitches every once in a while when you swap, and it requires restarting mame or sometimes the computer. All minor annoyances compared to the benefits of modular.

My www link goes to my project post if you want to take a look. I am hoping to really get some use out of my panel by finishing some more panels ,so it might be a better example before too long.


Basically, if you want accurate controls and you do not mind the extra work and hassle; you will really enjoy a modular panel.

Paul

[TheShanMan]

If you haven't considered swappable panels, you might give thought to that as well. The concept is similar to modular, but instead of hooking in several pieces each time, you're only hooking in one. I have designed a very secure locking system for my metal cp that I'm very happy with. Basically the overall cp has a big rectangular hole with a slot along the bottom edge for locking in the bottom edge and 3 very small bolts sticking up along the top edge that lock in the top edge with tiny acorn nuts. So the end result is a flush cp with 3 acorn nuts out of the way along the top. (One of these days I need to create a project page so I can post some pictures)

I just completed my main 2 player panel - 2 competition 8 way joysticks with 6 buttons each. Soon I will do a trackball + spinner panel as well as a 1 player mag stick plus panel (4 way/8 way switchable). Ultimately when I get my hands on a tron style stick I will split my trackball/spinner panel into 2 panels - a trackball panel (and maybe I'll pick up a 2nd trackball for playing marble madness with my son) and a panel for spinner games and tron (spinner plus tron stick). I also ultimately plan to have an analog stick panel (for games like star wars and paper boy), a light gun panel, and a steering wheel panel. All of these panels plug in with a DB37 connector.

Also, for playing 3 or 4 player games I made 2 wood lap panels with a competition stick and 3 buttons, which have a long cord and plug into DB9 connectors mounted on the bottom of my panel.

So far I love my design. Storage is the only issue - I think I'll create or buy some sort of a storage box for them. The only real duplication of controls is with the buttons, but they were only $1.35 each so who cares.

[pmc]

I went swappable. It's nice because you can always make a game specific control panel if you want. And it's only one connector for each panel.

Mounted by friction (a shim), gravity, and physics (tight cleats) but that's inadequate when things get hot. I need to find something more permanent. I play with a light touch so it's generally not a problem.

Think about the swapping mechanics (connectors and such) because you'll be doing it alot and will regret a system that is awkward.

-pmc

[Jakobud]

I've toyed with the idea of using an electro-magnetic device to hold panels in place.  When active, it would hold the panels (if implemented correctly) in place very very well.  Then at the flick of a switch, it deactivates and you are able to remove and replace the panels.

[Ginsu Victim]

I've considered making swappable control panels once I get my current CP finiished.
Since I don't have a trackball going on my CP, that's what I'm thinking of for a second panel, including a dedicated 4-way stick (I have happ universals for my first setup, which are nice, but the 4-way isn't 4-way enough)
Also, I've considered making a Tron panel (who hasn't?)

[pmc]

I've toyed with the idea of using an electro-magnetic device to hold panels in place.  When active, it would hold the panels (if implemented correctly) in place very very well.  Then at the flick of a switch, it deactivates and you are able to remove and replace the panels.

Normal magnets might work nicely. They just have to be strong enough to hold it in place when in use, but a really strong pull lets it go.

-pmc

[Ummon]

Normal magnets might work nicely. They just have to be strong enough to hold it in place when in use, but a really strong pull lets it go.

-pmc

As a kid I remember seeing some show where they had magnets that more than matched your pressure, no matter how much you pushed or pulled, but below a certain threshold they would release. They might've been electro-magnets, and very powerful ones at that. Not something you want around your computer and monitor.

[Ginsu Victim]

Yeah, even a low power electro magnet will put off a large field. Not something you want close to your monitor.