Putting Together the MDF

[atomaka]

Alright.  I've checked the FAQ and saw no answer for this and searched the forums and only came up with one idea.

I was wondering how you all went about putting the MDF together.  The one idea I saw on this was with using small 1.25" x 1.25" pieces of wood as a frame for putting screws through.  I see this is a proven method.  I was just wondering if there are any other proven methods around.  I like to see a variety of options before proceeding with something, especially when it is the entire structural base of my arcade.

Thanks for any ideas!

[CitznFish]

some people just use L-brackets to put it together. I think the 1x1's are a better idea.  If you do it right you can screw only from the inside of the cab.

I really like how this one was put together:

http://www.verticaladdiction.net/cabinet1/index.shtml#day2

[MameFan]

Use 1x1's or 2x2's (plain pine) and PREDRILL ALL HOLES INTO THE MDF (can't stress that enough, otherwise it will split)

Also, as I posted in another thread about securing joysticks mounted underneath control panels, when using the 1x1's, I would suggest getting a caulk-tube sized type of whats called "Extra Strength Subfloor Adhesive".. it's called "PL 400" and if you didn't even screw the 1x1's (just pressed them in place and held them long enough for it to cure (it wont move after a few minutes, even with gravity, but fully cures in a few weeks).. you could get by without any screws, though I wouldn't recommend it. By combining PL400 with 1x1's AND screws, you have a very very sturdy system.

Forget elmers wood glue that will just crack on the first "move" of the cabinet.. If you use any glue, just use the PL400 stuff... It works.. it;s stronger than the glue used to glue the layers of plywood together!

[skirge66]

I used a combo of 1 1/2" wood screws with predrilled holes as stated above, and brackets both 90 and 45 degree found at home depot with 1/2" screws. it is very sturdy and looks nice.

it is very important as stated above predrill all your holes...the stuff will split as I found out the hard way...you will cuss and swear alot if you don't

[shmokes]

My 1x1's are actually 3/4"x3/4".  Is that a problem or is it kind of like 2"x4" not being accurate?  When you'all refer to 1x1's are you talking about what I have?  I haven't used them yet and I don't want to if it's not adequate.

[atomaka]

My 1x1's are actually 3/4"x3/4".  Is that a problem or is it kind of like 2"x4" not being accurate?  When you'all refer to 1x1's are you talking about what I have?  I haven't used them yet and I don't want to if it's not adequate.

I believe as long as you have the correct length screws (you'd need something like 1.25" for 3/4" blocks), then you should be set.  The point is not the amount of wood, but the fact that you are going through somethign other than the MDF for added support and that all the screws are internal.

And regarding my question: So no one has done this a different way.  I'm just scouting around for ideas still.  It seems as if the block "frame" method is the way to go judging by the response here

Oh, and skirge66, Redwings rock!!

[shmokes]

Well...there's the L brackets idea.  Some people have made a frame out of 2x4's and attached all the panels to that.

[SirPoonga]

What others said.  You can look at the contrstuction of my cabinet, you see I used 1x1s.

[Bill_S]

I pre-drilled and counter-sunk the particle board and attached it to itself with no internal frame.
For the pre-drilling, I drilled holes slightly bigger than the major screw diameter for the pieces with the screw head (the hole I counter sunk) and drilled holes slightly smaller than the minor diameter for the mating part.
I used coarse drywall scrwes to attach the 2 pieces and glued them as well.
I suppose people use the above mentioned methods to avoid seeing the screws, but drywall screws are black, and since I countersunk them and painted over them with my black paint no-one even notices them.
Since I built the cab this way, I did something else most people don't seem to do.  I made the cab bottom large enough so everything sits on it and it supports the vertical load.  My casters are then mounted below.
The monitor shelf (27" TV in my case) I built gives the cab stiffness at the top.

It's holding up just fine this way.  It made it through a move last summer just fine with only a couple paint chips.
You'll never take it apart though, so make sure it fits through a 28" doorway.

[bionicbadger]

I used 2x4s (cut in half for the upper part near the marquee), pre-drilled a pilot hole (slightly narrower than the screw) through the 2x4 and into the mdf on the side and front panels.  Secured the 2x4's to the base with L brackets, and cross braced by adding a couple more short 2x4 to support the monitor.  All the screws are inside on the side panels and front, so there are no visible screws, and the 2x4 frame is really strong (downside is its a bit heavy, but who cares, its strong).  My cabinet will fit easily through doorways so I don't have to take it apart to move it.  If you have to/or plan to take it apart, I would advise against screwing into the MDF, and instead use bolts.

[rhoelsch]

Anyone have more hi-res pics of how the joining was done?  A picture speaks....yadda yadda yadda

[CM]

Anyone have more hi-res pics of how the joining was done?  A picture speaks....yadda yadda yadda

Here is how I joined mine .. L-brackets with 2 screws per side .. no pre-drilling .. and no splits occurred:
http://mame.joshuasite.com/images/resized/Cabinet%20-%20base_html.jpg
and
http://mame.joshuasite.com/images/resized/Cabinet%20-%20frame_html.jpg
shows some examples.

[RubbrDug]

Well, it seems this thread is completely screwed!  

Screwing in pre-drilled holes and sinking the screws is a good idea. Use glue, too and use screws with a blank shaft, as long as your mdf is thick:

:\_______\ \ \ \ \ \ \ \
:                 \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \
:/---------\ \ \ \ \ \ \
        ^
blank shaft!

When you screw it in, the screw pulls the two sides very tight together, pressing out some of the glue. Wipe it of while wet.

When using 3/4 MDF you don't need an interior frame for your cabinet. Using L-shaped brackets doesn't sound good to me, but you can disassemble the cabinet easily.

Edited: Ah - I just read Bill_S post. He went for the same technique. Very professional  


But... I went for Biscuits   (see www.lamello.com for details) Very easy to do and very precise too. You need a special tool for it, in Germany you can buy it around $40. I think it's worth the price even if you only build one cabinet with it.

This is only my $0.02.

RubbrDug