Author Topic: My Stargate needs help... 1-2-1 ram error (Read 37258 times)

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #40 on:** March 16, 2008, 09:51:24 am »

I avoided this thread becasue of the "gut and mame" label -- mistake on my part.

Great thread and big

to everybody!!

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #41 on:** March 16, 2008, 05:05:00 pm »

Quote from: CheffoJeffo on March 16, 2008, 09:51:24 am

I avoided this thread becasue of the "gut and mame" label -- mistake on my part.

Great thread and big to everybody!!

Yeah... I agree the title is a bit scary! I just didn't (still don't) want it to get to "that" point... Williams boards are fixable... sometimes a little misleading... but fixable...

quanlee · « **Reply #42 on:** March 17, 2008, 07:46:17 am »

What should be voltages be for that chip? How do I measure it? What should the resistance be from front to back?

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #43 on:** March 17, 2008, 08:06:29 am »

Quote from: quanlee on March 17, 2008, 07:46:17 am

What should be voltages be for that chip? How do I measure it? What should the resistance be from front to back?

Got it...

The 4164 RAM only uses +5... so if your +5 is good then your fine... btw... did you double check your +5 volts with your new supply ( I suspect its fine but its worth a quick check).

I would check the contact resistance (with the board off, disconnected and removed from the mounting plate). You would do this by setting your multimeter to ohms.... you will have to put one probe (probe choice does not matter here, there is no polarity concerns when measuring plain old resistance) on the top of the chip (right on the pin) and the other probe on the solder pad beneath the chip (on the bottom of the board) and you should measure a direct connection of 0 ohms. This will tell you that the chip is connecting to the socket and the socket is connecting to the rest of the printed circuit board. Do this for each pin...

I'm going to review the schematic and check the chip select for that device so we can continue tracing if this does not turn up anything suspicious.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #44 on:** March 17, 2008, 12:44:58 pm »

I've traced the path... on the schematic...

The line(s) that drive bank 2 begin at decoder prom 3G (7461) continue to address decoder mux 4G (74LS139) to inverter 5K (7404) to a triple input nand 4L (7410) where the signal is combined with others to create Write Enable 2L active low (WE2L/) and is connected to pin 2 of each of the 4164's of bank 2.

The fault could be anywhere along this path... provided the ic socket is doing its job... I suspect bank 2 is not getting selected at all so it fails the first test of the first device...

quanlee · « **Reply #45 on:** March 17, 2008, 12:50:27 pm »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on March 17, 2008, 12:44:58 pm

I've traced the path... on the schematic...

The line(s) that drive bank 2 begin at decoder prom 3G (7461) continue to address decoder mux 4G (74LS139) to inverter 5K (7404) to a triple input nand 4L (7410) where the signal is combined with others to create Write Enable 2L active low (WE2L/) and is connected to pin 2 of each of the 4164's of bank 2.

The fault could be anywhere along this path... provided the ic socket is doing its job... I suspect bank 2 is not getting selected at all so it fails the first test of the first device...

So do I test it as you suggested above then? I have a guy that contacted me to repair the cpu board if I send it to him, what should that normally cost me??

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #46 on:** March 17, 2008, 12:56:14 pm »

Quote from: quanlee on March 17, 2008, 12:50:27 pm

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on March 17, 2008, 12:44:58 pm
I've traced the path... on the schematic...

The line(s) that drive bank 2 begin at decoder prom 3G (7461) continue to address decoder mux 4G (74LS139) to inverter 5K (7404) to a triple input nand 4L (7410) where the signal is combined with others to create Write Enable 2L active low (WE2L/) and is connected to pin 2 of each of the 4164's of bank 2.

The fault could be anywhere along this path... provided the ic socket is doing its job... I suspect bank 2 is not getting selected at all so it fails the first test of the first device...

So do I test it as you suggested above then? I have a guy that contacted me to repair the cpu board if I send it to him, what should that normally cost me??

... I don't know really what the going rate is... I would assume you'll be out at least 100-150 bucks... If you want I can fix it for you... you would just have to pay for shipping and maybe parts... as I have a few that I could use... I would not charge you labor..

give it some thought.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #47 on:** March 17, 2008, 01:01:16 pm »

Give me the board number off of the pcb... its right around the battery holder.

quanlee · « **Reply #48 on:** March 17, 2008, 01:05:49 pm »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on March 17, 2008, 01:01:16 pm

Give me the board number off of the pcb... its right around the battery holder.

I'll get it tonight, get back to you tomorrow. Thanks for the offer.

quanlee · « **Reply #49 on:** March 17, 2008, 08:55:21 pm »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on March 17, 2008, 01:01:16 pm

Give me the board number off of the pcb... its right around the battery holder.

I checked all of the RAM pins vs. the ohms off the solder connection below, all checked out ok.

The number off my board is 5770-09656-00 REV. B

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #50 on:** March 18, 2008, 08:49:16 am »

Quote from: quanlee on March 17, 2008, 08:55:21 pm

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on March 17, 2008, 01:01:16 pm
Give me the board number off of the pcb... its right around the battery holder.

I checked all of the RAM pins vs. the ohms off the solder connection below, all checked out ok.

The number off my board is 5770-09656-00 REV. B

I can definitely fix that for you... the most it would cost in parts is about 26 bucks if you need a new set of decoder proms... if you don't need the decoder proms... and its just a basic logic failure, I've got plenty of extra parts that I would give up for free... I also have access to very good solder/rework tools... and can assure you your pcb will not be damaged or butchered in anyway by repairs

I'm pretty picky about these things.

quanlee · « **Reply #51 on:** March 18, 2008, 09:11:34 am »

Quote

I can definitely fix that for you... the most it would cost in parts is about 26 bucks if you need a new set of decoder proms... if you don't need the decoder proms... and its just a basic logic failure, I've got plenty of extra parts that I would give up for free... I also have access to very good solder/rework tools... and can assure you your pcb will not be damaged or butchered in anyway by repairs I'm pretty picky about these things.

Awesome!! I e-mailed you regarding your shipping address. Did you get it? I have the board here at work with me, ready to ship. I assume you only need the cpu board?

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #52 on:** March 18, 2008, 09:14:28 am »

Quote from: quanlee on March 18, 2008, 09:11:34 am

Quote
I can definitely fix that for you... the most it would cost in parts is about 26 bucks if you need a new set of decoder proms... if you don't need the decoder proms... and its just a basic logic failure, I've got plenty of extra parts that I would give up for free... I also have access to very good solder/rework tools... and can assure you your pcb will not be damaged or butchered in anyway by repairs I'm pretty picky about these things.

Awesome!! I e-mailed you regarding your shipping address. Did you get it? I have the board here at work with me, ready to ship. I assume you only need the cpu board?

Yup ... I only need the cpu... I got your e-mail and have replied with my address...

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #53 on:** March 20, 2008, 09:42:26 pm »

I've received your PCB... I've got it running!

It was indeed the triple input nand (7410) WE2L/ selector gate. I sent you an e-mail but my e-mail is sputtering... just wanted to get the good news through!

I'll follow up with you with whats next....

DJ Infinity · « **Reply #54 on:** March 21, 2008, 04:18:01 pm »

This thread is like a soap opera. It is nice to see people come together for the common good in these days.

Retroactive if someething ever goes wrong with my Blitz machine when I get it I hope you can help me

quanlee · « **Reply #55 on:** March 21, 2008, 04:23:51 pm »

Quote from: DJ Infinity on March 21, 2008, 04:18:01 pm

This thread is like a soap opera. It is nice to see people come together for the common good in these days. Retroactive if someething ever goes wrong with my Blitz machine when I get it I hope you can help me

Yeah... not sure what I would have done without help... prolly gutted my Stargate, Mame, Play.... I don't have time for stuff that doesn't work. I probably picked the wrong hobby.

DJ Infinity · « **Reply #56 on:** March 21, 2008, 07:04:50 pm »

I wouldn't give up on a game I really wanted.

I would've forked over the cash to have it fixed if it was outta my league. I like you work on computers as well but don't have the luxury of a multimeter. I think In the next coupla months I will buy a set of backup boards to my game with a backup Hard drive

SirPeale · « **Reply #57 on:** March 21, 2008, 08:06:22 pm »

Quote from: DJ Infinity on March 21, 2008, 07:04:50 pm

I like you work on computers as well but don't have the luxury of a multimeter.

Why not get yourself a cheap multimeter? They come in handy for all kinds of this stuff. Voltage reading, continuity checking, diode/transistor checking...you can find them for under ten bucks.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #58 on:** March 21, 2008, 10:12:35 pm »

Quote from: DJ Infinity on March 21, 2008, 07:04:50 pm

I wouldn't give up on a game I really wanted. I would've forked over the cash to have it fixed if it was outta my league. I like you work on computers as well but don't have the luxury of a multimeter. I think In the next coupla months I will buy a set of backup boards to my game with a backup Hard drive

Sure... you can do the backup thing... also if you have to pay people to fix stuff for you... as long as you enjoy it...

I think Peale makes a real good point... multimeters... aint that much... and can go a long way for diagnosing common failures. Get comfortable with it and it just kind of goes from there... stuff starts to become less mysterious... and before you know it ... your pretty darn good at it.

And yes... I certainly don't mind helping folks out from time to time. Keeps my brain going!

quanlee · « **Reply #59 on:** March 22, 2008, 06:24:12 pm »

I'm starting to understand it a bit, testing the stuff you suggested with the multi-meter helped.

Thanks!!

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #60 on:** March 24, 2008, 02:05:51 pm »

Done with rework... burn in tonight.

besides the bad logic IC... here is what has been done:

- replaced 40pin and 20pin headers with gold contact headers
- replaced all electrolytic caps
- reworked factory white wires and moved to underside of pcb
- added 2 pin header jumper for composite sync inversion... the board originally had a pretty long bare wire used as a jumper (somebody had already modified the board)... so I changed it to a standard .1 header with a jumper plug... if you ever decide to use negative composite sync ... simply remove the jumper and use pin 7 of the video header as the composite sync signal.

I will ship it out tomorrow.

quanlee · « **Reply #61 on:** March 24, 2008, 02:32:59 pm »

Why would it have been modified?

The monitor had been replaced with a Ms Pacman or Pacman monitor at one point, it's burned in with the maze pretty bad. Would that have been the reason for the mod?

Speaking of burned in monitors, that's my next project, replacing the monitor. Any suggestions? I'm cheap, so it's got to be either used or new and inexpensive.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #62 on:** March 24, 2008, 02:38:53 pm »

Quote from: quanlee on March 24, 2008, 02:32:59 pm

Why would it have been modified?

The monitor had been replaced with a Ms Pacman or Pacman monitor at one point, it's burned in with the maze pretty bad. Would that have been the reason for the mod?

Speaking of burned in monitors, that's my next project, replacing the monitor. Any suggestions? I'm cheap, so it's got to be either used or new and inexpensive.

Most likely... the board that you have is not the original board that was in the cabinet... someone probably had swapped it out at one point in time... it's a common mod if you are putting williams boards into JAMMA cabs or want to use the single composite sync instead of the +V +H sync signals.

You just need a standard shelf mount 19" arcade monitor... you can get new ones for around 160-180 bucks... used ones for half that... you may be able to post on the BST and see if anyone in your area has a used one thats in good enough shape for you.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #63 on:** March 24, 2008, 10:45:45 pm »

Here are some pics of your game in action!

quanlee · « **Reply #64 on:** March 24, 2008, 11:10:36 pm »

Awesome! can't wait to get it back.

Thanks!

quanlee · « **Reply #65 on:** March 31, 2008, 12:14:09 pm »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on March 24, 2008, 02:05:51 pm

Done with rework... burn in tonight.

besides the bad logic IC... here is what has been done:

- replaced 40pin and 20pin headers with gold contact headers
- replaced all electrolytic caps
- reworked factory white wires and moved to underside of pcb
- added 2 pin header jumper for composite sync inversion... the board originally had a pretty long bare wire used as a jumper (somebody had already modified the board)... so I changed it to a standard .1 header with a jumper plug... if you ever decide to use negative composite sync ... simply remove the jumper and use pin 7 of the video header as the composite sync signal.

I will ship it out tomorrow.

I got the board last Friday, installed it and it works great!!!

Thanks for all your help.

cw · « **Reply #66 on:** March 31, 2008, 05:51:38 pm »

Does anyone else get that warm fuzzy feeling when a classic comes back to life?

quanlee · « **Reply #67 on:** September 29, 2010, 04:31:11 pm »

and... the saga continues. I started remodeling my basement back in March 2009, so I moved my arcade machines to another part of my basement while I was doing that work. Didn't do anything with them, turn them on, nothing until just recently.

Now my Stargate machine get's an error 1-2-5 on power up. That tells me it's a RAM error, bank 2, chip 5. I pulled that chip, turned on, same error. I pulled chip 6, moved it to slot 5, same error. I pulled chip 4, and swapped it with chip 5, same error.

So... it's looking like a socket problem, and not the chip. I'm no good at soldering.

Any suggestions?? Anyone?

Knave Jack · « **Reply #68 on:** October 01, 2010, 09:00:35 pm »

If you are in SoCAl i will be happy to help. I have sockets and have re-socketed a Stargate and Joust, so I'm comfortable with working on the boards. Just let me know. Im in Orange County.
Mike

boudin4evr · « **Reply #69 on:** December 10, 2020, 06:19:01 pm »

Anybody have a list of error codes? I just got a stargate machine
Thanks
I’m getting errors and during play it quits and goes to green blue purple screen then stargate scores screen goes from all green to blue then says go


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