Anyone using a 25" Wells Gardner 25k7193 monitor for MAME?

[tophatne1]

I have a chance to get a 25" Wells Gardner 25k7193 for $80.

It was pulled from a Neo Geo. This would be my first arcade monitor purchase and I don't want to buy something that's no good.

Is this a good monitor to use with the arcadeVGA?

I tried asking this question in the monitor forum but I've yet to get a reply. I ned to decide before the guy sells it and I miss out!

Thanks!

[JMB]

I am running a WG 25" 7000 (not sure exactly which one off the top of my head) with an AVGA2 and it works great. 

[ahofle]

Have you seen the monitor on?  Definitely check the picture out for things like bad screen burn or other obvious problems.  But I'd say it's a great deal.  25" arcade monitors are getting hard to come by (and they are the perfect size for a MAME cab IMO).

[tophatne1]

yeah I'm excited. The guy is quick with the emails and more than willing to fire it up and let me check it out.

I think 25" is a perfect size also. I tried a 27" tv but it was a little to big when you're standing at the CP a foot away from it!

I also want want to play the games in their original res. so tis would be ideal.

Does anyone know if I'll need special wiring to hook it to the ArcadeVGA 2?

[ahofle]

Does anyone know if I'll need special wiring to hook it to the ArcadeVGA 2?

You will most likely want to pickup a VGA breakout cable that ultimarc sells:
http://www.ultimarc.com/JShopServer/section.php?xSec=2

[SirPeale]

K7000 is a fine standard res monitor.  Buy it with no regrets.

[Zeppo]

I got 2.
They work great with the Arcade VGA.
Good luck!

[tophatne1]

It's mine and I get to pick it up form him on Sunday.

Now I have to do some research and figure out how power is supplied to the monitor and then learn how to set it up!

[sarge]

That monitor runs off 120 VAC but you will also need to use an isolation transformer with it. 

[urbecrisch]

I have one that looks great in my Mame CAB.  Had to replace some caps and the flyback but has worked great since they were replaced   ArcadeVGA2 and breakout cable were easy to hook up.

[pincky]

I have one that looks great in my Mame CAB.  Had to replace some caps and the flyback but has worked great since they were replaced   ArcadeVGA2 and breakout cable were easy to hook up.

Did you do that yourself i need to do the same for mine

[tophatne1]

That monitor runs off 120 VAC but you will also need to use an isolation transformer with it. 

Ah.... I guess I really can't just plug and play then huh.

Now I need to do some research so I can learn how to wire this up for power.

[JMB]

Now I need to do some research so I can learn how to wire this up for power.

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/acwiring.html

[tophatne1]

thanks for the info.

Bad news though. The monitor was just hooked up and tested and it only displays a white screen. The guy says it's looks like a potentiometer on the remote board for the monitor has broken. He claims it's an easy fix. Is it?

If so should I even bother. Unfortunately monitors never come up for sale around these parts. I really want it but at this point I'm thinking it might be to be big of a deal for someone who has never worked on monitors.

I do know some who's been repairing tv and monitors for 30 years. I might be able to get his help.

check it out.

http://lh3.google.com/jnyiri/R8YQaB2oC5I/AAAAAAAABew/hRUFMhqm1Po/DSC02847.jpg

[Zebidee]

If it is so easy to fix, then let the seller fix it first.

The easiest way for you to get a good arcade monitor, *with technical support from the seller*, is this:

Buy an old TV - it doesn't matter much what type/model/inputs, just try to get a good quality (branded) TV.  The TV doesn't even have to work!  It can be a dead TV, so long as the screen is still good.  If you do get to look at the TV turned on, choose one with a clear picture (especially towards the corners).

De-case the TV, and test the horizontal and vertical yoke impedances using a digital multimeter on ohms setting.  Here are a couple of sites with more info on how to do this:

http://www.8liners.com/datatech/monitor.html
http://www.jomac.net.au/parts.htm

After doing that, contact Joey at http://www.jomac.net.au/parts.htm, and tell him what these impedance values are, the number of pins on the neck, and the screen size.  Then (after you pay him), he'll then send you an arcade monitor chassis, ready to hook up to your TV tube.

If you get lost along the way somehow, Joey can help you get it going well.  Don't worry about him being in Australia, because international freight & communication is really cheap & quick these days.

I've built countless arcade cabs, and this is simply the cheapest, best and least-fuss way to get a good quality arcade monitor.

[Ken Layton]

thanks for the info.

Bad news though. The monitor was just hooked up and tested and it only displays a white screen. The guy says it's looks like a potentiometer on the remote board for the monitor has broken. He claims it's an easy fix. Is it?

If so should I even bother. Unfortunately monitors never come up for sale around these parts. I really want it but at this point I'm thinking it might be to be big of a deal for someone who has never worked on monitors.

I do know some who's been repairing tv and monitors for 30 years. I might be able to get his help.

check it out.

http://lh3.google.com/jnyiri/R8YQaB2oC5I/AAAAAAAABew/hRUFMhqm1Po/DSC02847.jpg

Yes it's an easy and cheap fix. Bob Roberts sells a replacement pot kit for the k7000 series remote boards.

[johnnya]

You could have just checked out my selling thread on here, haha. I'm "the guy."

thanks for the info.

Bad news though. The monitor was just hooked up and tested and it only displays a white screen. The guy says it's looks like a potentiometer on the remote board for the monitor has broken. He claims it's an easy fix. Is it?

If so should I even bother. Unfortunately monitors never come up for sale around these parts. I really want it but at this point I'm thinking it might be to be big of a deal for someone who has never worked on monitors.

I do know some who's been repairing tv and monitors for 30 years. I might be able to get his help.

check it out.

http://lh3.google.com/jnyiri/R8YQaB2oC5I/AAAAAAAABew/hRUFMhqm1Po/DSC02847.jpg

[urbecrisch]

Did you do that yourself i need to do the same for mine

Unfortunately not cause I was very new to the hobby last year when I needed it fixed.  I sent it off to a very reputable guy who replaced the flyback and capped it for me.  Price was reasonable and I'm very happy with the results.  At the next arcade auction in my area I'm thinking of getting a few machines with bad monitors and try capping a few for practice.  The scariest thing I had to do so far was discharge my monitor, but both times I did it everything was fine.  Just had some buckling of the kneecaps for a few seconds   Here's Chad's website for more info. Great guy and encourages you to call instaed of relying on email.  I talk to when I see him at my local auctions.  Good luck.
http://www.arcadecup.com/

[tophatne1]

You could have just checked out my selling thread on here, haha. I'm "the guy."

Nice! I suspected that you were on one of these message boards somewhere once I saw your last email with your list. I missed the listing on the sellers page.

I haven't had much time today to check into everything. I looked at it for a minute but it was to much for me to process while I was at work.

I'll get back to you soon.

[tophatne1]

This is pretty cool!

If it is so easy to fix, then let the seller fix it first.

The easiest way for you to get a good arcade monitor, *with technical support from the seller*, is this:

Buy an old TV - it doesn't matter much what type/model/inputs, just try to get a good quality (branded) TV.  The TV doesn't even have to work!  It can be a dead TV, so long as the screen is still good.  If you do get to look at the TV turned on, choose one with a clear picture (especially towards the corners).

De-case the TV, and test the horizontal and vertical yoke impedances using a digital multimeter on ohms setting.  Here are a couple of sites with more info on how to do this:

http://www.8liners.com/datatech/monitor.html
http://www.jomac.net.au/parts.htm

After doing that, contact Joey at http://www.jomac.net.au/parts.htm, and tell him what these impedance values are, the number of pins on the neck, and the screen size.  Then (after you pay him), he'll then send you an arcade monitor chassis, ready to hook up to your TV tube.

If you get lost along the way somehow, Joey can help you get it going well.  Don't worry about him being in Australia, because international freight & communication is really cheap & quick these days.

I've built countless arcade cabs, and this is simply the cheapest, best and least-fuss way to get a good quality arcade monitor.

[johnnya]

No problem 

You could have just checked out my selling thread on here, haha. I'm "the guy."

Nice! I suspected that you were on one of these message boards somewhere once I saw your last email with your list. I missed the listing on the sellers page.

I haven't had much time today to check into everything. I looked at it for a minute but it was to much for me to process while I was at work.

I'll get back to you soon.

[Zebidee]

This is pretty cool!

Yeah!  Believe it or not, I have a WG K7000 monitor chassis of my own that needs a little TLC, but I just never got around to it because I was too busy using some of Joey's new "Sharp Image" chassis on some 29" Philips screens I ripped out of old TVs.

Actually, I swapped the K7000's tube onto a good Neotec 2515C chassis I happenned to have, and have since sold that cabinet.

If you are interested in pursuing this, the 29" Philips tubes work EXCEPTIONALLY WELL, especially once Joey and I worked out the right capacitance values for the screen width capacitors.

BTW, Philips TV tubes are really quite good, very clear & sharp.  For many of their TVs, Philips made the CRTs in France, where they spent many millions to make a facility which is magnetically neutral for making CRTs.  That is, they eliminate much of the interference caused by the Earth's magnetic field, so that convergence and colour purity are as good as possible.  Because of this, Philips tubes made from this facility don't have, and don't need, purity and convergence adjustment rings on the CRT neck.  It's all sealed up, as it is perfect already.

Finally, believe it or not, the Philips 29" tubes are easier to fit into most cabinets than a typical 26" WG K7000 tube, because the neck does not go back as far.  Trust me!  I measured my K7000's 26" tube (model A63 ......something) from the middle of the plane of the mounting pegs to the back of the neck, and it was nearly 50cm!!  By comparison, the Philips 29" tube only goes back about 40cm.

I recently sold a cab with a great 29" monitor that I made up out of a Jomac chassis and a Philips TV got from the local recycling centre for $5.

Some Telefunken TVs also use Philips tubes, although they put a Telefunken label on them.  Many TV manufacturers buy each other's tubes, which makes sense.

[pincky]

Did you do that yourself i need to do the same for mine

The scariest thing I had to do so far was discharge my monitor, but both times I did it everything was fine.  Just had some buckling of the kneecaps for a few seconds
http://www.arcadecup.com/

YEAH I FEEL THE SAME WAY!!

thanks for the link i am going to check out his web site

Check out my cab so far (wating on new CP and Buttons to come in) [i've got pictures of the joystick and buttons i am gonna use i bought them from ultimarc]

http://pincky.gotdns.com/Pictures/My%20Arcade%20Pictures/

[urbecrisch]

Actually the monitor's not bad to discharge cause the models we have are equipped with an auto-discharge which discharges the monitor when powered off (probably not 100%, but way less than other monitors).  If you're a little timid to discharge, call chad and he'll walk you through it.  I can help out too but I'd rather leave the actual discharging instructions to the "pro".  If needed, I can show you what my discharge tool looks like.  Just a long flathead screwdriver and some wiring connected to 2 alligator clips.  Maybe 10 in parts.  The website below is just a pic tutorial on discharging a monitor.  My tool looks like the one pictured.  Good luck!

http://www.arcadegames.net/sightsound/discharge.ppt#1

[Zebidee]

One time, I was about to work on a recently used Philips TV, and discharged the anode cap twice.

I was then trying to remove the anode cap, with some difficulty, and was about to get my bare hands in there and push the clips together, to free them from the hole.  At the last fraction of a second I paused, and decided to use my grounded screwdriver instead.

Good thing too - because I managed to get a couple more powerful and noisy sparks out of it.  If I'd used my fingers, I'd have been very sorry.

[pincky]

Actually the monitor's not bad to discharge cause the models we have are equipped with an auto-discharge which discharges the monitor when powered off (probably not 100%, but way less than other monitors).  If you're a little timid to discharge, call chad and he'll walk you through it.  I can help out too but I'd rather leave the actual discharging instructions to the "pro".  If needed, I can show you what my discharge tool looks like.  Just a long flathead screwdriver and some wiring connected to 2 alligator clips.  Maybe 10 in parts.  The website below is just a pic tutorial on discharging a monitor.  My tool looks like the one pictured.  Good luck!

http://www.arcadegames.net/sightsound/discharge.ppt#1

see its a story like that that scares the YOU KNOW WHAT OUT OF ME!

i've bought a digital multimeter and
Fluke 80K-40 High Voltage Probe

to do the discharge

I liked the way this guy does his discharged per this link
http://www.stickycarpet.com/pinx/md.html

Matter of fact i am buying a pair of rubber gloves

[urbecrisch]

LOL!  It's funny cause I was in the same boat as you when I discharged the first time.  I've done the discharge twice so far with no problems.  Never needed rubber gloves or special tools, just the $10 worth I mentioned before.  I do understand where you're coming from so let me know how everything works out.  Are you going to have arcadecup fix the monitor?  The one pic I attached is the auto-discharge wire on the monitor and the other 2 pics are of the discharge tool I put together.  Good luck!

[pincky]

LOL!  It's funny cause I was in the same boat as you when I discharged the first time.  I've done the discharge twice so far with no problems.  Never needed rubber gloves or special tools, just the $10 worth I mentioned before.  I do understand where you're coming from so let me know how everything works out.  Are you going to have arcadecup fix the monitor?  The one pic I attached is the auto-discharge wire on the monitor and the other 2 pics are of the discharge tool I put together.  Good luck!

yes I am going to send it to arcadecup thanks alot for that link!!!

my monitor does have that same auto-discharge wire in that pic.

Heres the link
http://pincky.gotdns.com/Pictures/My%20Arcade%20Pictures/IMG_0911.JPG

http://pincky.gotdns.com/Pictures/My%20Arcade%20Pictures/IMG_0912.JPG

the second one shows it pluging in to the main board

[Zebidee]

Zzzzzzappp!! 

Dudes, that first pic isn't an "auto-discharge wire".  It is a grounding strap to minimise static on the screen.  It does nothing to the 25,000 volts inside the tube.  Don 't confuse yourself about this!

The discharging tool, on the other hand, looks mighty fine.  Just clip the other end to something well grounded (or at least large and metal).

[urbecrisch]

LOL, oops.  Wrong PIC.  Your right, that first PIC is the CRT ground wire which needs to be on for the auto-discharge to work.  I recall having to cut the wire in half when I shipped it out cause it was connected to the neckboard.  Thanks for the clarification.