The ARK Project - Lost? Not yet!

[Jetson]

I'm finding myself checking this project out on a daily basis...Love everything!

Keep up the great work!

[Ritalin]

Got a box full of gold t-molding (50 ft.) today courtesy of t-molding.com.   

Absolutely sick, I love it!

Please be sure to put a cup holder on there and fabricate a holy grail while you're at it!

[somunny]

I'm finding myself checking this project out on a daily basis...Love everything!

Do you have any plans or pics that you're working from that you can post? 

I would love to see what you have as your concept that you're working towards.

Keep up the great work!

Thanks!  The only design I have is the pic in the very first post.  All the changes have been made on the fly.  I've done the same with my past projects.  I'll start with a basic design and then change it (a little or a lot) as I go along.

Rit, I have a Fertility Idol but, sadly, no grail.     On a side note, your avatar was interesting enough until I (recently) saw No Country.  Now it just creeps me out.   

This weekend is an "All Ark" weekend.  Pics forthcoming...

[Kaytrim]

You have some real Bling going on here.  (pretty, pretty, shiny, shiny) That t-molding is killer.  Can't wait to see what you are able to accomplish this weekend.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[IA1NY]

Hey, I just caught your thread in the Artwork section and perused on over.  First I think you've got a great cab going.  Great theme idea.    It looks like you're gonna have one kick-ass cab.  I also like your ideas for the one/two men buttions being written out in the same font as the other lettering.  Before I saw your latest post, though I had a thought that might work out pretty well.  Vector the Indy silhouette in your footer pict and see how that works for the labels.

The other thought that I had while looking in this thread, was about your laminate conundrum.  If you haven't ordered it yet, there is a trick that is used in the scenic art trades for the entertainment industry.  For a cheap gold leaf effect, use the gold "potato" foil that you can get in restaurant supply places.  Use the gold side out, tear off the edges and spray glue it down with something like 3M Super 77.  Burnish it down to create a very flat surface, then seal it with a few coats of clear lacquer.

You will be able to cover T-molding with it so that the panel looks like a solid piece.  The lacquer will protect well and is easy to repair.

Looking forward to seeing more as it progresses!

[somunny]

I managed to get one side piece completly laminated and trimmed over the weekend.  I have another piece laminated on one side waiting to be routered.  This process has been far more time consuming that I had anticipated.  I've used laminate on two other cabinets but the gold needs to be handled somewhat carefully so I'm taking it slow.

I still need to rout the t-mold slot on the laminated piece.  As soon as that is done I'll be able to remove the protective film and take some decent pics.

[somunny]

More progress, less pics...

I now have both of the longer side pieces completed.  Finished laminating and routing the t-mold slots this past weekend.  I also was able to get the wing pieces cut out using the template I made. 

My focus now has to shift to getting the cp's put together.  I need to have them completed so I can determine the placement on the end pieces before they're laminated.  A couple of admin button holes and a hole for the control wires need to be cut out on the end pieces.  This is much easier to do when you're working with bare wood as opposed to laminated wood.

I also picked up a mobo/proc combo at Fry's last week for the Ark.  It's an Athlon X2 4200+ and an ECS GeForce 6100PM mobo.  Not exactly high performance but it will be more than enough to run what I need it to.  Both items set me back $59.  No too shabby.

Sorry for the lack of pics.  I'll take some this evening and get 'em posted.

[somunny]

Here's some pics:

Side 1 - This stuff is really difficult to photograph adequately.  In person, it shines very well, even through the plastic film.



Matching pair



The control panel wing pieces.  These are going to stick out too far, I think.  I plan to trim two inches off.

[Jetson]

Found this in an email and thought of your project

Plans for the Ark of the Covenant
Exodus 25:1-22

The Ark of the Covenant

They shall make an ark of acacia wood; it shall be two and a half cubits long, a cubit and a half wide, and a cubit and a half high. You shall overlay it with pure gold, inside and outside you shall overlay it, and you shall make a molding of gold upon it all around. You shall cast four rings of gold for it and put them on its four feet, two rings on the one side of it, and two rings on the other side. You shall make poles of acacia wood, and overlay them with gold. And you shall put the poles into the rings on the sides of the ark, by which to carry the ark. The poles shall remain in the rings of the ark; they shall not be taken from it. You shall put into the ark the covenant that I shall give you.

Then you shall make a mercy seat of pure gold; two cubits and a half shall be its length, and a cubit and a half its width. You shall make two cherubim of gold; you shall make them of hammered work, at the two ends of the mercy seat. Make one cherub at the one end, and one cherub at the other; of one piece with the mercy seat you shall make the cherubim at its two ends. The cherubim shall spread out their wings above, overshadowing the mercy seat with their wings. They shall face one to another; the faces of the cherubim shall be turned toward the mercy seat. You shall put the mercy seat on the top of the ark; and in the ark you shall put the covenant that I shall give you. There I will meet with you, and from above the mercy seat, from between the two cherubim that are on the ark of the covenant, I will deliver to you all my commands for the Israelites.

[wbassett]

EXCELLENT!

I deal with Wilsonart all the time too...  the metals are a bit expensive but it is a great company.  We actually use their laminates for high end Home Theater projector screens!

[somunny]

Jetson,

Thanks for posting that.  It's a cool read that I had not seen though bits have been posted in this thread. 

EXCELLENT!

I deal with Wilsonart all the time too...  the metals are a bit expensive but it is a great company.  We actually use their laminates for high end Home Theater projector screens!

I do like their stuff.     Out of curiosity, what kind of laminate do you use for a theater screen?

Also, work on the ARK has been a little spotty as of late.  I'm getting ready to show off a great addition to this project from a fellow BYOAC'er.  Details forthcoming...

[wbassett]

I do like their stuff.     Out of curiosity, what kind of laminate do you use for a theater screen?

Also, work on the ARK has been a little spotty as of late.  I'm getting ready to show off a great addition to this project from a fellow BYOAC'er.  Details forthcoming...

Depends on your setup, for a white screen Designer White, and for a gray screen around the shade of a GrayHawk, Fashion Grey.  Both in the -60 matte finish... and much less expensive than the specialty laminate you're using.

Looking forward to your additions and to see this puppy when it's finished!

[Jdurg]

Man, I can't wait to see this thing completed.  AWESOME job so far!

[Jetson]

    Hope you get some more time soon to work on this.  I know my next cab is at a standstill with all the yardwork I have to get done. 

btw....adding this so you can stay on the front page...lol

[somunny]

Thanks Jetson.  I'll have some kind of update this weekend.  I do have a pic of something to post.  I just have to find the time to do it.

 

[Jdurg]

Thanks Jetson.  I'll have some kind of update this weekend.  I do have a pic of something to post.  I just have to find the time to do it.

 

Looking forward to it.  Your cab thus far has been INCREDIBLY awesome.  Can't wait to see the finished project.   

[Jetson]

How's it comin?  Haven't seen any updates for a while now.   Hope you get some time to post some progress pics soon.

[weisshaupt]

How's it comin?  Haven't seen any updates for a while now.   Hope you get some time to post some progress pics soon.

Second this.. I am reallt looking forward to see the end result .. Its just a brilliant idea, especially since the new movie is coming out :>)

[somunny]

Well, I have been making some progress on the control panels.  Nothing too exciting which is why I haven't posted any pics.

However...! 

One of the reasons I have been working on the cp's is this:







These are polished brass shafts and dust washers, courtesy of Franco B, on Ultimarc 360's.  I have to say that these sticks are quite possibly going to be the coolest feature of this project.  It was his idea to use the polished brass and I couldn't imagine a more perfect fit.

Franco, please take a bow.  You truly are The Man!   

[mountain]

Wow, those are incredible!

Franco is the Man 

[Franco B]

(^_^') Awe, thanks you guys!

They do look nice in the 'flesh' so to speak.

Now get them in that cab! 

[BUCKETHEAD]

Franco B

 

[weisshaupt]

These are polished brass shafts and dust washers, courtesy of Franco B, on Ultimarc 360's.  I have to say that these sticks are quite possibly going to be the coolest feature of this project.  It was his idea to use the polished brass and I couldn't imagine a more perfect fit.

Franco, please take a bow.  You truly are The Man!   

Franco - That is fantastic! Someone told me I would have a problem getting a cool lighted effect from the 360s-- I guess I know who I should bug if/when I try to do that... Those are SOOO sweet.

Somunny - I think its great you pursued getting such an effect. I can't wait to see this thing completed!

[Stub]

Can you please show a pic of the wires leaving the base of the stick?

I am interested in how you handled rotation.

[Timstuff]

This thing is going to be awesome! But will my face melt if I play it?

[weisshaupt]

Can you please show a pic of the wires leaving the base of the stick?

I am interested in how you handled rotation.

While now defunct (and in trouble) - slikstik used to offer a lighted  ball top. They used a typical mini-plug mono connector at the base to allow the wire to rotate any which way was needed...

[Timstuff]

BTW, maybe you've answered this before, but have you considered calling your machine "Raiders of the Lost Arkade?"

[dmworking247]

You have awesome golden balls Gold Member!

"He had the Midas touch, and he touched it too much... he's Gold Member, he's Gold Member!"

[Havok]

Can you please show a pic of the wires leaving the base of the stick?

I am interested in how you handled rotation.

While now defunct (and in trouble) - slikstik used to offer a lighted  ball top. They used a typical mini-plug mono connector at the base to allow the wire to rotate any which way was needed...

Which method you can't do with a U360 stick, due to the magnet on the bottom of the shaft. I'd like to see how you did the wire too. Can you show us some pics of that?

[Franco B]

Yeah unfortunately I dont see how you can get round the rotation issue without pretty much re-designing the the stick.

All I did was to mill a 2mm wide slot into the e-clip groove:



The wires then fit into the gap between the ends of the e-clip. I used small gauge wire so that the wires fit snuggly and allows the magnet to fit all the way onto the shaft so it sits at stock height. Obviously brass isn't ferrous and hence inst magnetic so I machined the shafts so that the magnets are a push fit.



Obviously if the joysticks are twisted alot the wire(s) will break. I suppose you could fit some inline connectors that would disconnect before the wires break but you would still have to open the CP to reconnect them. If any one can think of a solution I would like to know 

[weisshaupt]

If any one can think of a solution I would like to know 

You might want to read my post above.. Connecing the LED wires to a standard audio mini jack at the bottom of the shaft allows a miniplug connector to rotate freely - 360 degrees, as many times as someone thought it would be cool.. the wire will never break because it never gets any significant stress on it.. SlikStik was using this design for its lighted ball tops , so for all I know it may be patented, but it sure works nice.

[Kaytrim]

If any one can think of a solution I would like to know 

You might want to read my post above.. Connecing the LED wires to a standard audio mini jack at the bottom of the shaft allows a miniplug connector to rotate freely - 360 degrees, as many times as someone thought it would be cool.. the wire will never break because it never gets any significant stress on it.. SlikStik was using this design for its lighted ball tops , so for all I know it may be patented, but it sure works nice.

The problem is the magnet and circuit board at the bottom of the stick.  What you are suggesting won't work because these components get in the way.



Looking Good sommuny.
Franco, your skills never cease to amaze.  Cool modification to the stick there.

[Stub]

Yes but Bender is working on a miniplug with the magnet attached to to back of the plug but. which solves the problem, but I have made on of these myself and I don't have room to install a restricter plate. I do like the feel of the circular restricter.

[Franco B]

I imagine you will have to lower the PCB as the shaft/jack/magnet will be longer than the standard shaft/magnet?

I don't know exactly how the U360s work but you may have to compensate for the extra travel of the magnet due to the increased distance from the pivot.

[Jetson]

Franco...Awesome work!  Truly amazing 

Thanks for the update.  I can't help but think of seeing the finished project due to all of the marketing for the new movie.

Every where I look there's Indiana Jones...and not to mention they've been playing the hell out of the first three movies lately.

Keep up the great work...can't wait to see the completion.  Somunny you're as good as Spielberg building up the excitement...lol

[Bender]

Yes but Bender is working on a miniplug with the magnet attached to to back of the plug but. which solves the problem, but I have made on of these myself and I don't have room to install a restricter plate. I do like the feel of the circular restricter.

I imagine you will have to lower the PCB as the shaft/jack/magnet will be longer than the standard shaft/magnet?

I don't know exactly how the U360s work but you may have to compensate for the extra travel of the magnet due to the increased distance from the pivot.

without restrictor

with restrictor

I am working on this. This is not the final but you get the idea, You do have to increase the distance of the PCB to compensate for the mini plug, and with a small modification those SICK, SICKly awesome gold joysticks could be retrofited. The last thing I need for that project are custom shafts and actually I think Franco is going to save the day on that too!
Just Stunning, Stunning, work on those sticks Franco!

Fantastic Project somunny!

[Franco B]

Nice work bender!

Does the U360 function the same with/without the restrictor plate? Im guessing it doesnt really matter how close the magnet is to the sensor then?

Where did you get your miniplugs from? I was looking for some a while ago but couldnt find anything suitable.

[Jetson]

I was thinking if the magnet thing doesn't work out for you, you could use a regular shaft and put a brass sleeve on it instead of using the solid brass shaft.

[Bender]

Nice work bender!

Does the U360 function the same with/without the restrictor plate? Im guessing it doesnt really matter how close the magnet is to the sensor then?

Where did you get your miniplugs from? I was looking for some a while ago but couldnt find anything suitable.

You do have some play as to how far the magnet should be from the PCB, but in my final design the distance will be the same with or without the restrictor, and the same as the original

I got the mini plugs for a place called vetco the harder part was finding the jack, I'm using  the tiny 2.5mm ones and I could only find either panel mount or PCB mount and they wouldn't fit into the shaft, so I bought some cables and took the jack side out of those. Some are better than others I was able to find one that had a 6mm(outside diameter) jack that works perfectly, unfortunatly it's from radio shack and discontinued. So long story short trying to find a small jack is the trick

Did you find any jacks that would fit in the shaft?

[Stub]

At around having the magnet an inch away from the pcb ( in center position ) it seems to lose tracking at the outside of its travel. We should be able to compensate for different distances by creating custom restrictor profiles.