Okay. I still don't know if I have a winner yet, but I have sketched two ideas.
The first incorporates an interesting feature. The control panels rotate up and fill the notches in the top for a 'table mode'. Interesting, but I don't really like the look. The darker brown pieces of wood on the corners are just that, darker decorative pieces to give it a less 'bland' look. This design is not space efficient because of the excessive tabletop overhang.
The second is more traditional but has a small tabletop just large enough for a 19 inch monitor. The edges are routed and the bezel is a wood inset. I would use homemade wood veneer instead of t-molding similar to what I've done with other projects. I like the compact design, but it's a little bland. Despite being a single color I think it would still be interesting if I use a nice wood such as mahogany or maple. I could also do some cherry or ebony inlay work to spice things up, too. It seems like a straightforward build. The most difficult part will be the tabletop. I would make a solid wood tongue and groove or dovetail frame similar to a giant raised-panel door. The outside would be routed along with the inside to make the bezel.
As for parts:
PCB of a favorite classic (hopefully good condition)
19" raster arcade monitor
Power supply
Coin Door (I must hear the satisfying 'clink' of the coins, no coin buttons)
JAMMA Cable
Speaker
Two leaf digital joystics (preferably 'bat' style)
Buttons (leaf style of course. I don't remember the Pac-Man joystick clicking)
1/2 player buttons (microswitch)
Will I need a powerline filter? I didn't read anything about this.
Would THIS:(
http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80021000.htm) be a good power supply? I'm not sure if it's cheap or if powersupplies are just inexpensive.
What am I missing here? It seems too straightforward. No video output conversion would be required due to the arcade monitor. The sound would hook directly to the speaker since the signal is already amplified by the PCB. Controls are directly wired to the JAMMA harness, so nothing is needed there either. I'm thinking I will get a cheap PCB as well to test my wiring with. I'd hate to inadvertently euthanize a classic.
