Author Topic: Dead monitor on Cruis’n World! WORKING!!!! (Read 15755 times)

AE35 · « **on:** November 25, 2007, 01:55:32 pm »

Hey guys!

I just got my Cruis'n World and turned it on. Everything works fine but the screen is totally dead. I can play the game and the sound, force feedback buttons work.

Any idea what the problem could be with a dead monitor?

Thanks,

Nicholas

grantspain · « **Reply #1 on:** November 25, 2007, 02:07:19 pm »

one for the monitor forum me thinks,anyway you need to get a bit more info first like the model/make of the monitor(likely to be a wg mid res) and if you have voltage on the monitor power input plug

AE35 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 26, 2007, 08:21:15 am »

Sorry for posting in the wrong forum!

I've just checked the fuse, there's something going through there, so that should be good.

Then I disconnected the 230v plug and attached the multimeter:

..But the numbers on the display keep changing..the meter is just running up and down all the time, never really settling on anything. Add to that, theres no crackling of the tube, and it doesn't seem like the tube is lighting up at the neckboard(when the powerplug is inserted to the board, that is)

Should I try to connect another cable to the monitor board from the outside with 230v from a wall socket??

Thanks!

Nicholas

AE35 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 26, 2007, 09:02:26 am »

Update!

My bad, the multimeter had to be switched to AC. Now it reads 227V.

So it isn't the power, and it isn't the fuse. Oh my *sigh*

grantspain · « **Reply #4 on:** November 26, 2007, 09:36:30 am »

i can see its a wg chassis and i think its a U5000 but i am not 100% sure
not a very nice monitor to repair btw
they had lots of problems,i think you can purchase repair kits from wells gardner otherwise you will have to send it for repair if your not a monitor tech

AE35 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 26, 2007, 09:58:28 am »

Hey. Would it be possible to change the entire monitor + chassis to something else, for
example a Hantarex polo 1?

Thanks!

grantspain · « **Reply #6 on:** November 26, 2007, 10:29:32 am »

cruisin' is a medium resolution game so you need something like a polo2 dual frequency monitor,basically you need a monitor that can handle 25khz frequency

AE35 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 26, 2007, 04:53:46 pm »

Are you sure it's 25kHz? Klov states it as standard(not that they are partout
right)

Thanks!

grantspain · « **Reply #8 on:** November 26, 2007, 05:00:51 pm »

no i am not sure its a 25khz as i misread the post and thought you had a cruisin' usa,if you have another cga monitor then rig it up and see what happens

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #9 on:** November 26, 2007, 05:14:09 pm »

512 x 400 resolution

Wouldn't that be considered medium?

(I don't ever pay much mind to pixel counts and such)

qrz · « **Reply #10 on:** November 26, 2007, 05:23:21 pm »

fyi,
this monitor uses a smps . if u hear a tic-tic-tic sound coming from the supply (w/pwr applied), there is likely a shorted h out xistor . (2sc3686 or 2sc3688, if i recall) if shorted , check caps around the flyback --BINGO! Either that, or I was attempting to say "before" but it was too many letters to type-- replacing hot.
don't forget to check the bypass cap on the h drive xformer ( likely 1uF @200v). this cap will cause premature failure of the hot when faulty. also check for poor solder joints on the drive xistor.
if smps not starting , the filter cap for pwm ic (47uf@63v) may be faulty.
yes, monitor is switchable 15/25khz. and generally not that difficult to repair ( imho)

qrz

SirPeale · « **Reply #11 on:** November 26, 2007, 05:56:38 pm »

It's 100% a medium res game.

D_Zoot · « **Reply #12 on:** November 26, 2007, 07:06:10 pm »

Quote from: qrz on November 26, 2007, 05:23:21 pm

fyi,
this monitor uses a smps . if u hear a tic-tic-tic sound coming from the supply (w/pwr applied), there is likely a shorted h out xistor . (2sc3686 or 2sc3688, if i recall) if shorted , check caps around the flyback --BINGO! Either that, or I was attempting to say "before" but it was too many letters to type-- replacing hot.
don't forget to check the bypass cap on the h drive xformer ( likely 1uF @200v). this cap will cause premature failure of the hot when faulty. also check for poor solder joints on the drive xistor.
if smps not starting , the filter cap for pwm ic (47uf@63v) may be faulty.
yes, monitor is switchable 15/25khz. and generally not that difficult to repair

I've got a pile of these monitors out in games on location. Generally they haven't held up too well. I've seen failures on these run from SMPS failures, various deflection faults causing SMPS over-current shut down, one with a very weird problem in the +15v startup circuit causing SMPS shutdown, bad caps and solder joint issues. I've been fixing them, but I can tell you some of them have been a real PIA.

I'm with grant, if you aren't at least somewhat familiar with monitor repair, this probably isn't the best monitor to get your feet wet on.

Swap the whole monitor out, or send the chassis out for repair. I've never used his service as I fix my own, but Chad at www.arcadecup.com comes highly recommended by those that have had boards fixed by him.

D

qrz · « **Reply #13 on:** November 26, 2007, 08:31:58 pm »

sry to hear uv had trouble w/these, D_Zoot.
i've worked on these for several years for a route operator. really nothing special about 'em .

did have one that was a pain on the h startup. a re-design ended that problem !

the following SHOULD be a given:

>>persons unfamiliar with troubleshooting proceedures involving high voltages/currents should NOT attempt to repair such devices<<

qrz

D_Zoot · « **Reply #14 on:** November 26, 2007, 10:00:26 pm »

Quote from: qrz on November 26, 2007, 08:31:58 pm

i've worked on these for several years for a route operator. really nothing special about 'em .

We are route operators. Put a big fleet of these monitors out and see how you feel about them later on. Between weird chassis failures and those damn Zenith tubes living about as long as a gypsy moth I wouldn't say I've had "trouble" with them, but I will say I'm not overly impressed with them.

D

SirPeale · « **Reply #15 on:** November 26, 2007, 11:50:09 pm »

I'd say it's a fair bet that most monitor guys in here are either route techs or have experience in the biz.

grantspain · « **Reply #16 on:** November 27, 2007, 10:04:13 am »

i would say AE35 is in europe so the option for wells repair is slim,the u5000 was a serious problem in the u.k so much so that it basically ended wells gardner being used on u.k machines(being replaced with kortek,hantarex and pentranic)
i do know one chap(tony) in london who does repair these(and many other chassis),his company is called DH leisure so thats an option.
Do i remember the u5000 holding a sizable charge on the anode?

AE35 · « **Reply #17 on:** November 27, 2007, 01:19:27 pm »

Hey again!

I removed the board form the machine!

Everything is written on small annoying stickers, not used to that!

But here goes:

WGM2550 - U4AR5(or 6)0G another sticker is saying P738-E

Here's a picture of a solder joint at the HV..what is going on here?

Another thing is, there's a resistor that should be 1Mohm, but read 274ohm every single
time...any thoughts?

Thanks,

Nicholas

grantspain · « **Reply #18 on:** November 27, 2007, 05:25:46 pm »

now i am not sure if its a u2000,considering your model number.i have no experience with the u2000 chassis
as for the resistor,lift one side from the board then read it again
as for the solder connection around the flyback,whats the white thing sticking through the hole?

AE35 · « **Reply #19 on:** November 27, 2007, 06:01:29 pm »

Hey!

There's no white thing, must be my crappy camera

There's just the emty hole, and a shiny
solder joint to it's right...and some goo that has spread out to the next 'street'

grantspain · « **Reply #20 on:** November 27, 2007, 06:13:50 pm »

that stuff around the solder joint is old flux from solder,you can scrape it off using something gentle-you will probably find it joins to the trace/track(street??) next to it

AE35 · « **Reply #21 on:** November 27, 2007, 06:33:46 pm »

"trace/track(street??) next to it"

Yeah yeah, I couldn't find the word for it. I KNEW it would sound ridiculous

(English not being my primary language and all)

Is the flux harmful in any way? I just thought it could have something to do with the monitor
being dead

grantspain · « **Reply #22 on:** November 28, 2007, 10:14:56 am »

sorry bud i thought you were a brit.
flux is not harmful,anyway you should listen to the north americans as they have experience with these chassis(especially qrz)

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #23 on:** November 28, 2007, 10:53:22 am »

P738-E

Sounds like a U5000 to me.......

grantspain · « **Reply #24 on:** November 28, 2007, 05:48:21 pm »

the first time i worked on a u5000 i left the remote connector off which then proceeded to blow the crap outta the power supply,happily to say only daytona,area 51,maximum force and cruisin' usa were the only cabs that had these stinking piles of manchester united inside of them,they caused so many problems that i never saw a wells gardner in a u.k released machine after that(around 1996 i think)

qrz · « **Reply #25 on:** November 28, 2007, 10:36:52 pm »

many products will have problems specific to a perticular brand or even model. knowing the common faults makes repairs a bit easier . once in awhile , something weird will pop up . it then becomes a learning experience .
and yes D_Zoot, zenith crts can be a pain . dang hk shorts ! but, not a reason to trash the tube.
if only one gun is affected, loop 3 parallel turns of wire around the flyback's exposed core . note: approx 2 volts per turn
lift the fil pins or disconnect from crt pcb and connect to new winding in series with a 2.2 ohm 2w res.
doing this will isolate the filament from dc ground via fly winding- negating the heater/cathode short.
commercial isolators had been avail for many yrs . more fun to "roll yer own "
imo, zenith crts REALLY went to pot when lucky goldstar (LG) bought them out . they soon outsourced tubes .
will assume they still do ....
qrz

AE35 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 29, 2007, 03:44:01 pm »

Hey guys!

It's working now! By advice I changed the 33kohm resistor on R765, fired it up
and now it works!!!

Thanks for all your help!! My wife is so happy now:)

Nicholas

grantspain · « **Reply #27 on:** November 29, 2007, 03:45:19 pm »

well done

AE35 · « **Reply #28 on:** November 29, 2007, 03:59:41 pm »

Yeah, quite a succes. Thanks to the arcade forums

I'm thinking of adding some fans to the cabinet...wouldn't that be a good idea?

If so, should I draw the power form outside or somewhere within the machine?

I think I'll make a small website with information regarding this machine. Maybe this knowledge could be of use to others some day...?

Thanks again!

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #29 on:** November 29, 2007, 05:45:23 pm »

Wow!!

You got lucky then.... the last one I messed with that burnt that particular resistor up literally tried to burn a hole through the chassis in that area. Plus took out a couple other resistors, a zener diode, transistor in that area plus a transistor not even close to that area. Royal pain to find everything that went bad.

Good job !!


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