How can I cover gaps?

[unclet]

I am making a jukebox cabinet and some of the MDF pieces are not going to join together nicely.  I would really like to have some suggestions as to how I can cover up the gaps.

My cabinet is not going to look like the picture below, however, you can understand what types of gaps I am talking about by looking at the picture.   The picture obviously shows a side cross-section of the cabinet view and has arrows indicating what type of covering I am looking for to cover the gaps. 

I originally thought T-molding might be nice, but I really do not want my jukebox cabinet to look like an arcade machine and I think T-molding screams arcade machine.   Although, I was thinking perhaps some chrome T-molding might do but I was not sure if this could be applied to cover gaps instead of being pressed into a groove.  Not sure I want the real shiny chrome T-molding stuff either.   Do they even make unpolished chrome T-molding?

Anyway, some type of curved non-polished chrome metal might be nice but I have no means of curving/cutting metal myself so I am out of ideas.

I have not installed the MDF on my jukebox yet but I can tell this is something I am most likely going to need to resolve so before starting to build I want to know what options are going to be available.

[shardian]

You need to miter your joints for those areas.

[javeryh]

Hmmm... do you have access to a tablesaw?  I'd try to make those cuts as close as possible.  Maybe a router and the right bit or a beltsander?  A circular saw could even make the cut with a sawboard.  After getting it close I'd use spackle to fill any small gaps and sand it down so everything is flush.  

[unclet]

Yes I know the picture shows the gaps as hugh .... which they will not be when I finally construct the actual cabinet, however, I still do not want to see the joint line between the two MDF pieces where they meet together.   I would rather have something nice and rounded to cover this area up.   Basically, something which will cover up the joint line which would supply a more rounded look to the jukebox feel. 

I only showed the hugh gaps in the picture so people could understand where I wanted to cover up.

I guess I am really just trying to figure out how to round off places where MDF meets together.

[javeryh]

I guess I am really just trying to figure out how to round off places where MDF meets together.

A sanding block and some spackle will do the trick nicely.  You should be able to get the surface smooth enough so you won't see or feel the seam.

Too bad the angles aren't 90 degrees or you could just use a roundover bit with your router.   

[shardian]

Well, if you mitered the front piece and then sanded it to round, it would look real good. Someone on here has detailed the process in the project announcment forum.

As to the other one, you could use bondo or spackle to create a fillet there. Slop the bondo on the gap, then use something like a spoon, or other round scooper thing and drag it along the seam to create the rounded shape. Once you feathered the edges out, it would be a very smooth transition.

[xmenxmen]

There's always bondo and sandpaper.  Bondo it and sand it down to whatever u like.  Seen quite a few things done here using this method to shape or repair things.

[NoOne=NBA=]

I would bring the CP piece all the way out, round it over, and leave a lip on it.
That will hide the front seam.

For the top seam, you could use a piece of shoe molding on the bezel that will mesh up to the CP piece of wood.

[unclet]

Yeah ....  overlapping the front part to have a lip sounds like a perfect idea and I most likely will end up using this idea.  Thanks a lot

I kind of like how "mountain" used PVC pipe to generate the curves for the corners of his control panel box.   I was not sure how he painted over the PVC pipe though.  I know he used bondo .... I wonder if he simply put bondo all over the PVC and then painted it.  I am not sure I could do that but it is a good idea I have to look into as well since it does generate a perfect curve.

[squirrellydw]

how big of a curve?? wiggle wood can bend to a 3 1/2 inch radius.  look at my wall mount jukebox post

[leapinlew]

In the past, I've used bondo and paintable caulk on cabinets that were going to be painted.

[unclet]

squirrellydw
I did see that post .... good job.   Not sure exactly what the curve radius will be since I have not cutting stuff yet but the width of seam I would want to cover is 30" wide.   I am not sure if I can bend the wood nicely or not.

I think the overlap idea is more my style

[superbigjay]

Hello UncleT,

I agree with Shardian and Javeryh, miter cuts + sanding + wood filler/bondo would give good results.
You can basically do any shape with this technique (and a lost of dust).

I'm including a snap of what I'm talking about (pic#1)
Also, 2 more pic of my curved CP box (pic#2 and pic#3)

Jay 

[TOK]

I've had to deal with both of those types of sections on two different cabinets... For the front, you can use a 1/2" roundover bit, then sand the front to match. I did this on my Stargate bartop to mimic the rounded front of a Williams CP. It looks a bit rough here, but I sanded the front flush and put an overlay over it.
The other thing I considered before doing this was using a piece of quarter round trim and cutting the control panel edges square and having the trim create the roundover. This would be good if you don't have a router (I used it as my EXCUSE to buy a router!  )


I had a part where the CP meets the bezel on my upright that matches your second spot. On that one, I cut the piece so it touched the upright, then sanded it with an orbital sander until it fit. The angle was so slight that I didn't want to try using something that cut too fast to create it. Just sanded and test fit  until it dropped in tight. When I had it real close, I put the fuzzy end of some sticky velcro on there as a pad, since that was where wood met glass on my machine.

[unclet]

Unfortunately I do not own a router, but you guys have provided some really good ideas ..... thanks a lot.   I believe I will start some of th assembly this weekend.   Most likely the internal frame part.  The rounded edges will be encountered and resolved in the near future.   

[ChadTower]

If he went with mitered cuts instead of filled gaps in the joints like that, he wouldn't need to bother with an internal frame, yes?

[shardian]

If he went with mitered cuts instead of filled gaps in the joints like that, he wouldn't need to bother with an internal frame, yes?

His picture is exaggerated to better clarify the areas he is asking about.

[ChadTower]

I do understand that.  In the picture they don't even touch.  If he were building that we should just let him do it and then laugh when it fell down.

[Kaytrim]

Use Bondo to fill the gaps and sand it down.  Then refill if needed with more bondo.  I used this on Dad's Bartop.  I started off with a sharp corner and then using a belt sander going the length of the board rounded it over.  Then I followed up with a random orbit sander.  See the before and after pics below.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[javeryh]

Use Bondo to fill the gaps and sand it down.  Then refill if needed with more bondo.  I used this on Dad's Bartop.  I started off with a sharp corner and then using a belt sander going the length of the board rounded it over.  Then I followed up with a random orbit sander.  See the before and after pics below.

TTFN
Kaytrim

And there you have it.