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Author Topic: Potentiometer: Solder or Twist-on  (Read 1029 times)

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Potentiometer: Solder or Twist-on
« on: September 04, 2007, 10:17:20 pm »
Hey guys, long time lurker only a few posts so far but have gained a lot of knowledge here and I will post my CP project soon.

I know that soldering is gonna be better for installing a pot for volume control but I'm a noob and the lugs are really close together on the pot.  Would twisting the wires on work OK?

Assuming you all say solder, can you offer some real world advice as to the most important aspects of soldering.  I've read the soldering 101 write-ups and practiced on an old motherboard but I guess I'm most nervous about overheating and frying the componentry.   To prevent overheating I tend to put the solder on the iron rather than on the wires to get it to melt more quickly, also a bad thing I guess.  Any hints would be appreciated. 

Is flux necessary?  If so can I use plumbing flux?  I know plumbing solder is a no-no but is the flux OK?

I'm working on a MK style cab and I'm thinking of putting the volume on the speaker panel.  Any pros, cons for this placement?

Thanks, you guys rock :applaud:

rockin_rick

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Re: Potentiometer: Solder or Twist-on
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2007, 11:52:13 pm »
Don't twist, solder.  You may be able to get away with using a QD crimp terminal such as those used on microswitches if the pots solder lugs are the right size (meaning that the QD holds tightly).

Soldering tips - don't use too big of an iron.  No more than say 30W.  If it's a gun, it's probably too big.

Don't use plumbing flux or solder.  Electrical solder will have flux in it.  No additional flux (of any kind) is necessary.  Plumbing solder (acid core) will corrode electrical connections.

Don't put the solder on the iron.  This will not create a good joint (it will most likely be a cold solder joint).  Put the iron on the (in this case) wire and pot lug and touch the solder to the lug at the point farthest away from the iron (heat source) that there should be solder for the joint.  When the lug gets hot enough, the solder will flow.  Move the solder around to fill the area without adding more than necessary.  Remove the solder, and leave the iron on for about another second.  Remove iron.  If you don't get that lug hot enough, the solder will not bond to it properly.  A part (in this case the pot) that has solder lugs is usually designed to be able to withstand the heat necessary to solder to it.  (necessary means an appropriate sized iron and length of time the heat is applied)  The main cause of damage due to soldering is using too large of an iron.

Good luck,
Rick
« Last Edit: September 04, 2007, 11:54:02 pm by rockin_rick »
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Re: Potentiometer: Solder or Twist-on
« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2007, 08:30:17 am »
My iron switches to 15W or 30W, I've been using the 30W for practice so I don't lose patience.  I guess I could get away with the 15W for more delicate parts (and after I learn the skill a little better).  Thanks for the advice Rick.