Router Question and Quick-Disconnect Q

[HeadRusch]

Ok, Router question: If I gotta get an inexpensive router to do my edging, I just might go out and do that.
However, if I wanted to put a rounded edge on a piece of 3/4" MDF, what size round-over bit do I need?
For 3/4 I couldn't use a 1/4 or a 1/2, could I? If I used the 1/2" it would be...rounded but...pointy, no?
Router bits...they be expensive!

Second Dumbassed question: Quick Disconnects.  Ok, uh, are quick disconnects sold in male and female, and I assume you want the female only (to slide over the male microswitch tabs, yes?).  If so, do they sell just female disconnects...and in quantity? I'd hate to have to start hardwiring all my controls if just soldering on a QD would be the smart move. (although I imagine with the ground you're SOL yes?)

Thanks everyone...

[shmokes]

Okay, I'm not sure, but I suspect you're talking about shank size on the router bits when you say 1/4" and 1/2".  The shank size refers to the diameter of the part of the bit that sticks into and is grasped by the routers collet (the collet is the equivalent of those three prongs on a drill that grasp a drill bit).  In other words a 1/4" router bit can be plenty long to router 3/4" wood, as can a 1/2" router bit.

On the quick disconnects (this really should be in the faq, if it's not) yes you want female.  They are sold in quantitiy, but not at Home Depot (not the right size anyway).  You want .187 female quick disconnects.  www.therealbobroberts.com sells them and I've heard that you can get them at Napa autoparts stores and autozone, but that they aren't labeled as .187.  


Here:  a bag of 50 for $3.00  http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?st=0&st2=0&st3=0&DID=7&Product_ID=2673&DS_ID=3

[shawnzilla]

You can also get quick disconnects in smaller quantities at Radio Shack (if you're in a hurry to get some).

[mpm32]

The 1/4" and 1/2" that he is referring to is the radius of the rounded profile.  I would think that 1/4" roundover would look better on a cab as it will approximate t-molding closest.  Although a 1/2" would look OK if adjusted properly. i.e not cutting with the entire profile.

As far as shank sizes go, most cheaper routers only will accept a 1/4" shank.  For my router, I only buy 1/2" shank bits where possible.  Some smaller profiles only come in 1/4".  The larger the shank, the smoother the cut - less vibration.  

My router is my favorite tool, it is also my most feared.        A 3 1/2 hp router spinning a piece of carbon at 45,000+ rpm is a tool to be respected.

[HeadRusch]

THANK YOU! (For the links to the quick disconnects...)  is it just an interference fit? ie: You just slide it on the microswitch terminal with a little bit of elbowgrease or do I gotta crimp it on there somehow?

And yes, it wasn't shank size...it was the size of the cut.  If I use 1/2 MDF to build my control panel frame but use 3/4" as the control panel top, then I'd need to be creative as to how to get a rounded edge on there......I suppose you can get a 1/16th slot cuting bit in either 1/4 or 1/2" shank size, yes?

Router: The tool be feared!

[johnpurs]

THANK YOU! (For the links to the quick disconnects...)  is it just an interference fit? ie: You just slide it on the microswitch terminal with a little bit of elbowgrease or do I gotta crimp it on there somehow?

No crimp or elbow grease required here just slide it onto the connector.

And yes, it wasn't shank size...it was the size of the cut.  If I use 1/2 MDF to build my control panel frame but use 3/4" as the control panel top, then I'd need to be creative as to how to get a rounded edge on there......I suppose you can get a 1/16th slot cuting bit in either 1/4 or 1/2" shank size, yes?

Correct you would need a bit that rounded 3/4"  wood so a 3/4" roundover would work.  As far as shank size 1/2" if your router will except them. Also very important be sure to buy only Carbide Router Bits. I've seen MDF turn a standard router bit into toast in less than a 10 inch cut..   [/quote]

[shmokes]

No crimp or elbow grease required here just slide it onto the connector.

Well...no crimp to put the disconnect on the connector, but you would want to crimp the female quick disconnect to the wire that would run from said connector (button or joystick microswitch) to your I-PAC (or other keyboard encoder/hack of choice).

[HeadRusch]

Ok I ordered from Bob Roberts the female disconnects (PartsExpress has a minimum I guess and they tried to get me to buy 6 packages..YEESH!), I thought the wire had to be soldered to the disconnect!

I AM A FOOL!

I'll ask bob if he sells the crimping tool to go with it....so you just insert the wire (or 2 if you're doing common ground) and squeeze?

[shmokes]

yes...that's my understanding, at least.  I won't be to that stage for about a month.

[HeadRusch]

Yep, Bob confirms..just squeeze and go. the $8.00 soldering set I bought may remain untouched.

[JoyMonkey]

Yep, Bob confirms..just squeeze and go. the $8.00 soldering set I bought may remain untouched.

So what crimping tool did Bob suggest? I've just been squeezing them tightly with a pliers. Seems to work just fine, but maybe with time the connection might loosen???

[Smittydc]

The one andy sells in his wiring kit http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html is pretty standard and I'm sure you can pick one up at Radio Shack, Home Depot, or any electronics store.

[actually, I'd like to give a big positive review to that wiring kit.  I wasn't sure I wanted it for the $$ when I ordered but the wire is the perfect guage and in multiple colors, it took several CPs to use that many connectors, and I needed a decent crimper anyway.  I've since tried to buy similar wire and connectors all over town and they aren't easy to find or cheap.  Thanks Andy!]

[HeadRusch]

Just the one he sells...it was only about 18 bucks i think, I said "sure, why not".....I needed the tool anyhow so...we'll see how it works out.