Help identifing/troubleshooting monitor. Still have several questions. "Kagi?"

[bfauska]

I just recieved a Magical Spot cabinet from Universal, inside the cabinet I have what I believe is the stock monitor and a Mr. Do board.  The Monitor inside has a sticker on it with the number 19VLBP22 (I know model numbers are rarely on the tube, but I can't read anything on the boards.)  The board for the monitor appears to actually consist of 4 boards and one box.  Here are some pictures of what I am talking about.


This is a closeup of the sticker w/ the number on it.


This is a shot of the tube w/ the boards in the background.


This is a shot of the edge of the boards, because of their location it is very difficult to get  a shot of the face of the boards, they are also too dusty to read much of anything on them.

I have found knobs for "Bright", "V-hold", "H-hold", "V-Pos", "H-Pos" but I can't find a "V-size" and the image is about 12 pixels too tall for the screen.

I am also experiencing some other problems and would like to hear the possible solutions, this is my first arcade monitor so I am not totally familiar with what is and what is not adjustable.

There is an area on the screen where the image is less vibrant than the rest of the screen, it may just be the green , but it's hard to tell when all I can run is Mr. Do.

The overall brightness and focus seems to flutter a little bit.  The amount of variance is not too drastic but it is definitely noticeable, the speed rhythm, and intensity of the flutter seems to be random.

Lastly, while not a problem exactly, I am curious as to what my options are for hooking this up to a computer.  I think my plan is to only run a DOS based FE and MAME, and I would like to avoid buying an $80 video card.  I have many older video cards I can try but none of them have a TV out that cannot run separate from the VGA out.

Lots of questions, anybody got some answers/suggestions for me?
1. What's this monitor/how can I find out?
2. What should I try to adjust the size?
3. What should I try to fix the "faded" area?
4. What should I try to fix the flutter?
5. What options do you suggest for hooking this to a computer?
6. (not listed above) Any suggestions on how to clean the boards, I don't know if an air blow alone will do it?

Thanks,
Brian

[bfauska]

Still on the search for info.  I pulled the chassis out of the cabinet, dusted it off, and took some better pictures but the camera is off with my wife for the day so I can't upload them.  In searching the links in the ***...before you post*** thread I found 1 picture that appears to be the chassis I have.  It is the one ID'd as a "Kagi" but there is no more info about it.  Searching seems to be getting nowhere, I did find some reference to the monitor being incorrectly ID'd, but can't find any good info with the new name either.  I would like to do a cap kit and if the examples in the recent "what does a cap kit fix" thread are correct then I expect I will have a much improved monitor.  I don't however know where to find such a cap kit for this monitor since I don't yet have a positive ID.  If I can't ID it can I replace the caps by searching out caps to closely match the ones on the board?  Is there some sort of standard for labeling them that I should be able to decipher and order new ones.  Failing all of that can I run this tube w/ a different chassis?  There is NO burn in whatsoever and I have great hopes for making this monitor behave again.

Still hoping for some input from any of the gurus on here.

Thanks in advance for any advice,
Brian

[bfauska]

 I got the pictures from the camera so I suppose I'll post them and see if anybody has any ideas now.

This is a picture of the boards w/ wires


Here's the boards w/o wires for a better view


And here's the ?Flyback? I don't know if that's what this part is or not, I'll read the FAQ and WIKI again, but I don't remember any monitor parts ID section so it is tough to ask informed questions sometimes.

[Ken Layton]

Good old Bob Roberts has the capkit for this Kagi monitor. It sells for $7 on his website.

[bfauska]

Thank you for the reply, I saw it in the ID section of the site but I assumed (incorrectly) that only the ones with links were available for sale, I have contacted him to see if the cap kit he lists will work. (his listing is for a 13" monitor while mine is 20")

[bfauska]

Ken, (or anybody else)

Do you know for sure or at least strongly suspect that the Kagi "warlords" 13" monitor kit from the site should work?  I haven't received a response from Bob yet but I also sent a wordy email instead of a simple order.  Is there an average response time from Bob, should I re-email him?

thanks,
Brian

[Ken Layton]

Send him another email from a different account. Sometimes his ISP blocks legimate emails as spam. Use a good subject in the subject line like, "Monitor cap kit question" or something like that.

[Pac-Fan]

Bump for this with additional info to help the OP, and an issue I'm having with my 19"

I aquired 3 of these monitors this summer. Two were 13" versions, and 1 was a 19" version.  The 13" versions had Hitachi tubes, while the 19" had a Mitsubishi tube.

The 19" one had Sega labels on the picture tube itself stating a part number "S-97335-P". I could not find any reference to them.

Note: ALL of these seem to be 100 volt monitors, not 110. All of them stated 100VAC on their input pins, and the 19" had a big "100 VOLT" B+W sticker attached to the pix tube by the Sega part number as I've seen on the Sega Nano ones.

The only difference between the 13 and 19's I could find, besides layout of the 3 boards on the frame's were that the main fuse was actually lower amperage (1 amp) on the 19" vs I think 1.5 amp on the 13's.

I got both 13's fully up and running without problems. Even swapped one in a Sega Turbo mini (100V) and it worked great, better than the K7000 that someone hacked into it originally.


Anyway, I have 2 questions, hopefully Ken can help:

1) I too, cannot find a cap kit for the 19" one. Is the 13" version marked (Warlords) that Bob has the same one?  I assume it is but it's interesting he didn't state 19" and stated it was only Warlords.


2) My 19" version has a problem. On the neckboard, there is a blue spark-gap device surrounded in a flexible clear plastic coating.  When powered up, it sparks visually and audibly, and then eventually (in about 5 seconds) the main fuse blows.


Any idea why this spark gap is, well, sparking?  It actually started to burn through the flexible clear plastic surrounding the gap component.

[Ken Layton]

Sounds like the tube has a short in it. Put it on a rejuvenator to confirm it and maybe repair the tube.

[bfauska]

I actually forgot about this thread. I ordered the 13" kit from Bob Roberts and it had all the necessary caps. After installing it the uneven saturation seemed to clear up, but I still have color issues with the monitor and I think a few others, but I haven't turned it on in quite some time. I need to figure out if I have some bad color connections or if I just need adjustment, but I don't really know what knobs adjust what.

[Pac-Fan]

Sounds like the tube has a short in it. Put it on a rejuvenator to confirm it and maybe repair the tube.

Ken: Here's the scoop:

"Kagi "12 pin Chassis with 510UKB22 tube. Spark Gap 1 on neckboard arcs when plugged in and after 5 seconds, the main fuse blows. The SG connects between the focus pin on the socket (being fed power via the incomming isolated wire) and the ground pin (that connects to the aquadag/frame ground strap)

Connecting the tube to a BK467 shows a possible H/K short.  (H lamp is medium bright, Green lamp is medium bright, Red and Blue lamps are very dim flickering), Grid lamp is off.   However, measuring H against all the cathodes with a DMM shows no resistance between them.

I then tested the same chassis connected to a different 510UKB22 tube (that worked 100% fine in another chassis). Same problem. That tube did not show any H/K shorts in the 467.

I then connected the potental bad tube into a different chassis - a Sega Nanao MC-2000.  It powered up fine, and the neckboard had a similar spark gap but did not have any problems and the screen was acceptable with no evidence of a H/K short (no fog and no retrace lines showing at normal screen/brightness control settings).

Only other thing I noticed is that there is a light build up of charcoal-like material on the spark gap pins that is visible now that the thin plastic covering is arc'd off around the pins.

Any ideas? Thanks

[Ken Layton]

Could be that the spark gap itself is shot (shorted at operating voltage).