Control Panel advice - NOT Layout related!!!

[pboreham]

Hi,

Anyone following my blog will have seen I have built the control panel box and am currently awaiting a BIG order from GGG!

Whilst I wait for it to be delivered, I would like some general advice about the CP please...

1) For the top, shall I router the edge and put t-molding on, or is this personal choice? Or just use the router to make a rounded edge? Whats better?

2) Do I get a CPO + Plexiglass, or just CPO - with Plexi, is there a problem mounting the controls (using Happ Supers, ICE Trackball, TT2 Spinner, ICE Buttons)...

3) Any mounting advice for the box and/or top - or just follow the Project Arcade book?

4) Any other mounting advice for the controls? Have not got a mounting plate for the trackball - Randy said I could use a Happ one, though people install without. Will this effect whether I can have plexi on top of the CP or not?

Thanks for any help - REALLY looking forward to this stage of the project and cannot wait for my order to arrive!!! 

Cheers, Paul

[Pops]

T-Moulding or just to route a rounded edge?
I like the look of t-moulding but a slot cutter bit is an extra expense, can you borrow one?

Plexi adds to the overall thickness of the panel, it can be tricky to get the button nuts on if you exceed the thread depth. Routing a recess underneath is the answer to this. More work.

Not this far yet myself so looking forward to the replies here.

No TB mounting plate is my biggest regret, fabricating one yourself is a . I know, I've done it. It worked but wasn't worth the aggravation. No difference to the plexi on top if you rout the plate into the panel.

For all that, building the cp is the best part of a build enjoy it.

Hope this helps.

[Green Giant]

1.  t-molding

2.  plexi or not, the controls should be fine.  do the plexi cause if you want to later, it will be a pain in the 

3.  For the top of the control panel, stick on some hinges on the front and some sort of locking mechanism.  On mine I put an extra coin door lock on the right side that digs into the wood of the box so I can easily access the controls but no one else can.  As for the box itself, make sure it is extremely secure.  Avoid velcro as it isn't permanent enough.  I don't remember what the book said, but all I did was permanently attach two 3/8" bolts sticking up through a 2x4 going under my control panel.  I have two holes lined up on my control panel box.  I drop it on there and tighten them on with some hand nuts.

4.  Mounting plate came in handy, just make sure whatever you do, you countersink it with the control panel.  Hidden nuts and mounting plates  really make a control panel look nice.

[pboreham]

Thanks GG... in reply:-

2) The Happ Supers look pretty stumpy with a short throw - dont know how plexi will affect this?

3) In the book it advises to velcro the top part (with the controls) to the actual box - then the box to the cab with a locking mech. Like your idea though, will have a think!

4) I need to investigate mounting plates more - what router bit do you use to make the countersink for the plate or trackball? I've used the router to make the t-molding grove, but not for anything else!

Thanks again, paul

[javeryh]

You can route out the footprint of the joystick underneath the CP top - I'd go 3/8" deep in a 3/4" top.  This will give you a 3/8" longer shaft on the joystick if you think it is too short.

[pboreham]

Cheers Javeryh,

As I've absolutely no experience with these parts (i.e. have not actually ever held one!) I think its going to be hard to visualise until I have it in front of me.

Do you know what the router bit is called to make the footprint?

Thanks!

[javeryh]

Cheers Javeryh,

As I've absolutely no experience with these parts (i.e. have not actually ever held one!) I think its going to be hard to visualise until I have it in front of me.

Do you know what the router bit is called to make the footprint?

Thanks!

I use a DADO bit for making my footprints because I like to use the ball bearing once I get into the wood but there are probably a bunch of different bits you can use.

This is the result I'm talking about - I had to route out a footprint for my U360 to make the shaft a bit longer.  I went down 3/8" but be advised that it's not easy to secure the joystick without going through the top of the CP because you only have the remaining 3/8" to screw into.  Mine seems to be holding up nicely but I'm prepared to glue the joystick in place if it ever comes loose.   

[u_rebelscum]

2)  Personally, I don't like plexi.  Only the cheap CP's had it when I grow up.  It became normal latter, but never lost the "cheap" feel to me.  [shrug]  I really hate thick plexi.  But it's personal opinion. 
If you go plexi, I suggest 1/8", and route the bottom of the wood to match for joysticks; modern buttons should be okay.  Plus, AFAIK the TB you're looking at has a 3/16" lip, and with the mounting plate 1/16", the 1/8" plexi puts the top of the lip level with the top of the plexi.

4) If you go CPO, get the zinc (smooth) mounting plate.  Not only will the bare mounting plate be covered with the CPO and out of sight, but no need to worry about sanding the plate smooth.  As I mentioned, if you route the top of the wood the thickness of the plate (~1/16"), the TB lip will line up with of 1/8" plexi (without using spacer underneath).

[Green Giant]

Cheers Javeryh,

As I've absolutely no experience with these parts (i.e. have not actually ever held one!) I think its going to be hard to visualise until I have it in front of me.

Do you know what the router bit is called to make the footprint?

Thanks!

Any sort of straight router bit will do for making the footprint.  You can pick one up at homedepot no problem.  Getting the slot cutter bit is always more difficult, but since you have that already you just need a straight bit any size really.

[pboreham]

Cheers Javeryh,

As I've absolutely no experience with these parts (i.e. have not actually ever held one!) I think its going to be hard to visualise until I have it in front of me.

Do you know what the router bit is called to make the footprint?

Thanks!

Any sort of straight router bit will do for making the footprint.  You can pick one up at homedepot no problem.  Getting the slot cutter bit is always more difficult, but since you have that already you just need a straight bit any size really.

Do you just set the height on the router then and just... 'bore down' into the wood and then router out to the edges of the layout template for each controller?

[Green Giant]

Cheers Javeryh,

As I've absolutely no experience with these parts (i.e. have not actually ever held one!) I think its going to be hard to visualise until I have it in front of me.

Do you know what the router bit is called to make the footprint?

Thanks!

Any sort of straight router bit will do for making the footprint.  You can pick one up at homedepot no problem.  Getting the slot cutter bit is always more difficult, but since you have that already you just need a straight bit any size really.

Do you just set the height on the router then and just... 'bore down' into the wood and then router out to the edges of the layout template for each controller?

Yes, that is all you do.  I am assuming this is MDF which you are cutting.  The router bit should be able to tear through it no problem.  Get your depth right the first time around, it is the most important part.

[pboreham]

Cheers Javeryh,

As I've absolutely no experience with these parts (i.e. have not actually ever held one!) I think its going to be hard to visualise until I have it in front of me.

Do you know what the router bit is called to make the footprint?

Thanks!

Any sort of straight router bit will do for making the footprint.  You can pick one up at homedepot no problem.  Getting the slot cutter bit is always more difficult, but since you have that already you just need a straight bit any size really.

Do you just set the height on the router then and just... 'bore down' into the wood and then router out to the edges of the layout template for each controller?

Yes, that is all you do.  I am assuming this is MDF which you are cutting.  The router bit should be able to tear through it no problem.  Get your depth right the first time around, it is the most important part.

Cool, thanks! I've got loads of scrap MDF left, so I will just have plenty of practice goes first.

[javeryh]

I recommend scoring the edges of the area you wish to cut out with a razor/utility knife.  When the router bit gets within 1/32" of the scored edge it should just chip out leaving you with a perfectly straight line.  The reason I like the ball bearing on the dado bit is that once you get into the material you won't have to keep scoring the edges because the ball bearing will ride along the edge and limit how far the bit can move.

[Dmod]

[Do you just set the height on the router then and just... 'bore down' into the wood and then router out to the edges of the layout template for each controller?

If you're freehanding the router, I think it's a lot easier if you drill the joystick hole first, insert the router into the hole and then just sweep out to to the edges.