Help converting R-type cabinet to JAMMA

[Aleanil]

Ok, I just bought a nice new R-type cabinet and a Mars Matrix CPS-II set (A and B boards) to go into it.  As it stands, I'm pretty sure I need to rewire the cabinet; no problem.  My question is whether I can just plug R-type into a standard JAMMA harness and have it work.

My other (larger and more important question) has to deal with the power.  There is a large transformer with power leads to a secondary power supply, as well as the marquee light and the monitor.  I'm assuming it is a linear-style power supply.  (R-type came out in 1987, the parts are separate, so that is my guess).

Would it be better to try and adapt the existing transformer and linear power supply to work with JAMMA, or to pull it all out entirely and use a more modern switching power supply?  If so, would I need to purchase a separate isolation transformer for the monitor, or could I just run a power strip into the cabinet and plug the monitor, marquee light, and the switching power supply into it?

Your insight is greatly appreciated!

[BrentRadio]

R Type will play in a Jamma cab, but it won't have sound. To get sound you need to do the following:

>You need to add three caps for the M72-A-C board.
>        C101, C102      2200 mfd 16v, electrolytic
>        C108            1 mfd 25v, electrolytic
>You also need to remove a wire that jumps from C108 to C102. (don't
>forget the caps have a plus and minus side...)

Brent

[Aleanil]

Thanks for the info, that sounds like a simple fix to get R-type working.  That leaves only the bigger problem of power (which I have so far been totally unsuccessful in finding info about).  I wouldn't mind replacing the marquee light, but the monitor (a Sharp XM-2001) plugs directly into the power supply.  I heard tell that it requires 100V to function, but am totally unsure....

My preferred option would probably be to scrap the linear power supply and transformer entirely and use a switching supply, but I'm not certain that a switching one will work to power the monitor and isolate it correctly.

[Crowquill]

If you haven't already downloaded it, the manual can be found HERE.

From what I'm seeing on page 2 is that it has a 110-100V stepdown transformer (which the monitor and light plug into). Is that a 100V switching power supply? As long as it puts out enough wattage I'd think you wouldn't need a new PS.  OTOH, a new Peter Chou isn't that much and would definitely power it with no problem.

Are you going to try to add a second player controls for Mars Matrix?  A 2-player Nintendo Vs or Playchoice CP would probably fit an R-Type cabinet.

[Aleanil]

What is in the cabinet right now (stock) is a 110->100V stepdown transformer, the monitor and light plug into that.  There is also a lead that goes from there to a small power supply mounted on the PCB board cage.  That power supply outputs (what looks like) +5V, +12V, and +24V only.  This wouldn't be able to run a standard JAMMA board (e.g. Mars Matrix/CPS-II board), right?  So I would need to purchase a second power supply for that, but keep the transformer in place for the monitor and light (though the light may be shot... it's lacking a bulb and I imagine 10W 100V fluorescent bulbs probably aren't cheap, and I don't know whether the starter, ballast, etc. is good either. Might be cheaper to just replace).

But I would still need the transformer for the monitor, and the original power supply for R-type, and an additional power supply for JAMMA? Or no? 

Thanks a lot for the idea of swapping CPs, Crowquill - I had been wondering myself how I would fit 2P controls into things, and had decided to just go with single player.  I'll have to look into buying one / building one to go on there. 

[Crowquill]

The power supply would PROBABLY work for most JAMMA games. JAMMA has pins for 5V, -5V, and 12V. The -5V pin is rarely used (I have about a dozen JAMMA boards and none of them use it). The deciding factor is how much power the PS can put out on those lines. Most newer switching power supplies put out 15A on 5V and 3A on 12V. I have one that only outputs 11A on 5V and 2A of 12V. It's worked fine with every board I have. Check the amperage and go from there. As I mentioned before, a Peter Chou switcher isn't that expensive. Does R-Type use the 24V?

The most common practice with Nintendo cabs is to replace the light fixture with a standard 110V fixture. There are a few sources for the bulbs, but they're going to be more expensive than picking up a new fixture with the bulb that will also be easier to maintain later. You'll just need to leave the 100V transformer to run the monitor.

Does anyone have the width of a Vs or Playchoice CP? That might be the biggest factor as to whether it would work.

[Aleanil]

Power supply states:

5V       5A
12V     0.5A
24V     0.2A

I'd assume that R-type uses the 24V line for *something*, but I don't know what.  From what I have seen elsewhere it'll work fine without it.  Judging by the low numbers on the current power supply, I should probably pick up a Peter Chou power supply and decommission the current one? (where do I find a Peter Chou switcher, anyway? happ's website?)

I guess I'll pick up a different light fixture then, I kinda had a feeling that it'd be expensive to maintain the one I have.  Where would I best find one of those, too? Lowe's? Home Depot? happ's website?

So finally, just to sum it up... I need to:

A) Leave monitor connected to the transformer, do nothing else with it.
B) Acquire a new power supply
C) Rewire CP controls, the new power supply, and the monitor to use a JAMMA harness
D) Run a power strip into the cab.  Plug transformer, new light fixture, and new power supply into it.

Does that sound about right?

Thanks a lot Crowquill, you've been a great help to me so far

[Crowquill]

With those stats I'd definitely go for a replacement. Happ sells some, but they're pretty universal (just watch the specs). Peter Chou is a brand name (and designer) of power supplies. They're generally regarded as the best and most reliable power supplies for games.

You might just post a message in b/s/t. There are TONS of these things out there and most still work just fine. eBay always has tons listed too. As with most things electronic, if picking up a used one make sure it's "tested working" just to be safe (unless it's REALLY cheap). For every old JAMMA cabinet that you see gutted for MAME on here, there's probably a power supply sitting in a box of stripped parts.

Pretty much any "under-counter" light will work. I was really happy with the GE branded one I bought at Home Depot about a month back. It's nothing too special, but the advertised "instant start, no-hum" features were very nice for home use. It also takes a standard 18" fluorescent bulb instead of some funky, compact bulb. It was about $8.50.

You'll probably have to use a power strip or hardwire to a distribution block to be able to plug in the stepdown transformer, the light, and power supply. You'll need to wire a fuse and maybe a new switch into there somewhere too. Check out THIS TUTORIAL. It was invaluable when I rewired my Neo-Geo cabinet. What voltage is the distribution block on top of the Nintendo power supply?

BTW, do you know about CPS-2 Suicide? Mars Matrix was a newer game so you're probably OK for a while, but why take chances? My Darkstalkers PCB is on borrowed time.

[Aleanil]

Yeah, I was aware of the CPS2 suicide problem... I hadn't found a source for the battery or bit, but I just saw that jammaboards.com has it for $12.95 + shipping o.o;;  I think I can probably find it cheaper elsewhere, but I'd like to get that changed ASAP just for my own peace of mind.  It *is* only a six year old game... but I'd rather not be saddened by a dead board.

Would it hurt for the transformer to be plugged into a plain old powerstrip, right alongside the light and new power supply? Or does the transformer need to be separate somehow?  Also, I just noticed that the grounding pin for the transformer's plug is torn out.  Should I cut the plug and rewire it with a real 3 pin one? 
As it is, I was thinking of something like this:

WALL <---- POWERSTRIP
                        /\
                         |
                         |
                TRANSFORMER
                LIGHT
                POWER SUPPLY

Then I could toggle the power strip on/off and control the whole cabinet.  I'm not sure if that's safe or not... electrical wiring isn't something I have much experience with. 

Oh, and I'm not sure if I am interpreting your question correctly, but I don't really have a distribution block.  The transformer plugs into the wall and has two outlets built into itself, and a molex lead that goes to the woefully underpowered power supply mounted on the PCB chassis.

EDIT: Bought a Peter Chou supply off of eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=6262794080
All I need to do is connect a standard three prong power cable to the bottom set of inputs, right?  Then run the rest of the power to the JAMMA harness?

[BrentRadio]

I'm pretty sure your power strip setup will work just fine. I have something similar setup up on a couple of my games, although none with a iso transformer.

Brent