How do I mount this joystick?

[More Cowbell]

Get your mind out of the gutter! This is a real question.
Take a look at this joystick, it's cool and it changes from 4 to 8 way with a turn of the bottom red disk. It can also do 2 way as well. The only problem is how the heck do I mount the dang thing? It has that bulge at the bottom that prevents it from sitting flush when mounted from below. It's also a pain in the @$$ to take apart to put the joystick in from the top. The base is a weird shape so I don't think it's supposed to be mounted from the top either. If I extend the hole so that the bulge is in the hole, it will be this gaping hole around the joystick from the top. Maybe I have to route out a space for the bulge? What a pain. Any ideas?

[paigeoliver]

That stick is for metal panels in Candy cabinets, there isn't a really good way to mount it in wood.

[Stobe]

So let me paraphrase...

There is a bulge stopping you from mounting this stick.?

I'd wait 3-4 hours and try again.

[RandyT]

That stick is for metal panels in Candy cabinets, there isn't a really good way to mount it in wood.

Err...Suzo from Rotterdam doesn't make sticks specifically for Japanese cabinets

They do mount easier in a metal panel or with a mounting plate.  That being said, there are ways to mount them in a wood panel.  Recess from the top, and cut a hole for the body of the stick, so that the flat section of the joystick body is flush with the top of the panel.  Use flathead screws / bolts to secure and cut a hole in the plastic overlay the size of the hump diameter.

You can also recess the underside of the panel to accommodate the hump and mount like a regular stick.  The hole doesn't need to be as large as a Competition or Super as the throw on the stick is shorter.  Dress the hole any way you wish (blacken the interior, etc) or make your own dust washer.

RandyT

[vidmouse]

Recess from the top, and cut a hole for the body of the stick, so that the flat section of the joystick body is flush with the top of the panel.  Use flathead screws / bolts to secure and cut a hole in the plastic overlay the size of the hump diameter.

I think this is what I would do, just be careful in routing out that bump.
Ouch, I see your problem, don't envy you.

Another POSSIBLE way is to mount it from under and use a beveled
edge on a wider circular hole for the joystick.  I did something similar
for my trackball mount:

[More Cowbell]

Yeah, I'm thinking the routing method is going to work best. I tried it on a scrap of wood and it worked pretty well and didn't take all that long. I just used my Dremel with the cutting tool to widen out the bottom of the hole. This still doesn't solve how best to get the joystick taken apart. It doesn't appear that it is designed to come apart as you have to take it completely apart and then remove a c-clip that isn't meant to be removed and replaced. I'll have to remove it and replace it with a normal c-clip. It's a pain but the end result should be fine. Thanks for the input.